DROPS / 159 / 11

White Romance Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern, short sleeves and round yoke in ”Safran”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no e-227
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour no 17, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for edges.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 521: 6-6-6-6-7-7 pieces.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.10. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row work YO twisted to avoid holes. Work inc sts in stocking st.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 10, 18, 26, 34, 42 and 50 cm.
SIZE M: 10, 19, 27, 36, 44 and 52 cm.
SIZE L: 10, 19, 28, 37, 46 and 54 cm.
SIZE XL: 10, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 56 cm.
SIZE XXL: 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50 and 58 cm
SIZE XXXL: 10, 19, 27, 36, 44, 52 and 60 cm
(NOTE: Dec for last buttonhole right before neck edge beg to get it as high as possible).

RAGLAN:
Dec for raglan on each side of A.7 in every transition between sleeves and body. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after A.7: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows 2 sts before A.7: K 2 tog.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 351-387-423-471-531-591 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Safran. Work 2 RIDGES in garter st - see explanation above (1st row = RS). Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.1A until 10 sts remain, work A.1B (= 5 sts) and finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this back and forth. When A.1 has been worked, there are 183-201-219-243-273-303 sts on needle. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts as before (work bands in garter st until finished measurements), work pattern according to diagram A.2 until 6 sts remain on needle, work 1st st in A.2 and finish with 5 band sts. Continue like this until A.2 is done - NOTE: On 7th row in diagram K last st before band. Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. When A.2 has been worked, K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 187-199-223-247-271-307 (do not inc/dec over the band sts). P 1 row (work bands as before). Insert 1 marker 50-52-58-64-70-79 sts in from each side (= 87-95-107-119-131-149 sts between markers on back piece). Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts, A.3 (= 11 sts), A.4 (= 20 sts), work pattern according to diagram A.5 until 37 sts remain on needle, 1 st in stocking st, A.6 (= 20 sts), A.3 (= 11 sts) and 5 band sts. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm a total of 4 times in each side = 203-215-239-263-287-323 sts - NOTE: Work inc sts in stocking st. Continue to work until piece measures 35-36-38-38-40-40 cm. Work next row as follows from WS: Work 49-51-57-62-68-77 sts as before (= left front piece), cast off 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts for armhole (i.e. 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts on each side of marker), work 85-93-105-115-127-145 sts (= back piece), cast off 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts for armhole and work the remaining 49-51-57-62-68-77 sts (= right front piece). Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 144-156-156-168-168-180 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Safran. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work pattern according to diagram A.1A. When A.1A has been worked, there are 72-78-78-84-84-90 sts on needle. Work 2 ridges. AT THE SAME TIME on last round cast off the middle 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts mid under sleeve = 62-68-68-72-72-78 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off (without working them first) = 307-331-355-383-407-455 sts. AT THE SAME TIME insert 1 marker in first and last st on both sleeves (= 4 markers). Beg from RS and continue pattern as before on body AT THE SAME TIME work A.5 on sleeves (arrow in diagram should match middle of sleeve, beg on same row in diagram as on body). Work in addition A.7 in every transition between body and sleeves (arrow in diagram should match against st with marker). When 2 row have been worked back and forth, beg dec for RAGLAN - see explanation above (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) 4-5-5-7-7-8 times in total = 275-291-315-327-351-391 sts. Work 1 row from WS as before. Then work 2 ridges over all sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-10-4-6-10-10 sts evenly on 1st row (do not dec over band sts) = 271-281-311-321-341-381 sts. Work 2 rows in stocking st (work bands as before). Now beg dec for round yoke and work first row as follows from RS: 5 band sts, work pattern according to diagram A.8 until 6 sts remain on row, finish 1 st in stocking st with 5 band sts as before. Continue pattern like this. When A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.9 instead of A.8 (work the other sts as before). When A.9 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 167-173-191-197-209-233 sts on needle. Now work A.10 instead of A.9 (work remaining sts as before). After A.10 work an elevation in back of neck as follows from RS: K until 20-20-22-22-24-24 sts remain. Turn, K back until 20-20-22-22-24-24 sts remain in the other side. Turn, K until 36-36-40-40-44-44 sts remain. Turn, K back until 36-36-40-40-44-44 sts remain in the other side. Turn, K until 52-52-58-58-64-64 sts remain. Turn, K back until 52-52-58-58-64-64 sts remain in the other side. Turn, K until 68-68-76-76-84-84 sts remain. Turn, K back until 68-68-76-76-84-84 sts remain in the other side. Turn piece and K the rest of the row.

NECK EDGE:
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm, beg from WS and work pattern according to diagram A.2 (beg on 2nd row in A.2). On next row from RS, dec 21-23-23-25-25-29 sts evenly = 146-150-168-172-184-204 sts. After A.2, loosely cast off with K from RS. Jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from shoulder and down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.05.2017
New chart: A.1 (A and B), first row.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= no stitch, skip this square
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= P 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= P 3 tog
= slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle
= slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 159-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Mariechristine 15.02.2019 - 20:37:

Buongiorno Sto finendo questo bellissimo cardigan ma ho incontrato qualche difficoltà Dopo avere finito il diagramma A10.ho lavorato tutte le maglie lasciando le ultime 20 poi ho girato il lavoro idem 20 maglie sul secondo l’atto. Ma non capisco dopo che cosa devo fare. Lavoro tutte le maglie rimanenti meno le prime 20 più adesso 36 maglie? Dunque in tutto sono 20 più 36 Grazie.

DROPS Design 15.02.2019 kl. 23:01:

Buonasera Mariechristine. Non deve lavorare le ultime 36 maglie. Buon lavoro!

Delorme 11.04.2017 - 22:48:

Pour dos et devant après avoir tricoter 2 cotes au point mousse , doit on commencer le diagramme A1A en commençant par la ligne 1 soit un rang tout à l endroit ou commencer à la ligne 2 soit 5 mailles endroit , 7 mailles envers , merci pour votre reponse . cordialement

DROPS Design 12.04.2017 kl. 12:28:

Bonjour Mme Delorme, le 1er rang des diagrammes se tricote sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

Chris 16.08.2016 - 08:53:

Ich möchte dieses sehr schöne Jäckchen mit Cotton Viskose stricken, die Maschenprobe stimmt auch. Benötigt man dann allerdings mehr Garn, da die Lauflänge ja nur 110m beträgt im Gegensatz zu Safran mit 160m?

DROPS Design 17.08.2016 kl. 13:39:

Liebe Chris, ja genau, das ist richtig. Wie Sie das ausrechnen, finden Sie unter Punkt 5 unserer FAQ (Tipps und Hilfe).

Karin Stapf 18.02.2016 - 22:15:

Beste,ik vind het geweldig dat jullie zoveel mooie patronen aanbieden.Maar ik merk dat ze bijna allemaal op een rondbreinaald worden gemaakt!! Ik heb het al eens geprobeerd maar vind het ongemakkelijk en moeilijk te begrijpen,aangezien ik ook nog maar een middelmatige breier ben.Is er een mogelijkheid de patronen om te schrijven zodat ik ze ook gewoon met 2 naalden kan breien? Groetjes Karin Ik zou het zeer waarderen als u mij verder kunt helpen

DROPS Design 24.02.2016 kl. 17:00:

Hoi Karin. Wij kunnen helaas niet helpen met individuele aanpassingen op de gratis patronen, maar je kan hier lezen hoe je eventueel een patroon kan aanpassen van ronde naar rechte naalden.

Anita Toft Jensen 19.11.2015 - 16:05:

Har strikket denne utroligt smukke jakke i str. XXXL, men den passer slet ikke i halskanten. Den er alt for stor. Den er så stor, at jeg ikke kan bruge jakken, før jeg finder på en løsning. ( den falder ned om skuldrene ) Jeg har overholdt strikkefasrheden. Det er rigtig ærgerligt, for det ødelægger lidt helheden

Martine Somville 12.07.2015 - 20:13:

Dans le modèle 159-11, le diagramme comporte les rangs endroits, dois-je faire les rgs envers comme les mailles se présentent? Je suppose mais pas certaine. Merçi

DROPS Design 27.07.2015 kl. 10:23:

Bonjour Mme Somville, les diagrammes montrent tous les rangs des points fantaisie, vus sur l'endroit, c'est-à-dire qu'1 case = 1 m x 1 rang. Sur l'envers, tricotez les mailles comme indiqué dans les diagrammes. Bon tricot!

Mena 15.05.2015 - 18:54:

Bellissimo

Sandrine 24.03.2015 - 10:21:

Pour le raglan vous dites diminuer tout les 2 rangs sur l'endroit ça ne fait pas 4 rangs ?

DROPS Design 24.03.2015 kl. 10:47:

Bonjour Sandrine, quand on augmente tous les 4 rangs, on va augmenter tous les 2 rangs sur l'endroit ainsi : *1 rang sur l'endroit avec augmentation, 1 rang sur l'env, 1 rang sur l'end, 1 rang sur l'env* et on répète de *-*. Bon tricot!

Sussi Beck 12.03.2015 - 08:02:

Hej. Forkanten trækker sig sammen så jeg ville strikke forkortede pinde over den, har i et bud på hvor mange pinde skal der være imellem?

DROPS Design 13.03.2015 kl. 15:46:

Hej Sussi, det er lidt svaert at sige, det er afhaengigt af hvor stramt du strikker. Jeg ville strikke de forkortede pinne og saa eventuelt gentage undervejs, hvis det er nödvendigt. Og saa skrive op ved hvilken höjde/p du strikkede dem saa du kan gentage paa den anden side. God fornöjelse.

Renate Gisbertz 14.02.2015 - 15:30:

Ein sehr schönes Teil, wie ein verspieltes Mieder

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