DROPS design: Pattern no bs-076
Yarn group A
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Measurements: approx. 65 cm / 25½'' along mid back and 130 cm / 51½'' at the top.
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
250 g color no 1101, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st / 45 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 6.80 $ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 6.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.18. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc with YO, on next row K all YO to make a hole.

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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. The shawl is worked from mid back and down.

Cast on 9 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Insert a marker in the middle st. Then work in garter st - AT THE SAME TIME inc 4 sts each row from RS as follows - READ INCREASE TIP: Inc 1 st inside 2 edge sts in each side and 1 st on each side of mid st. Inc like this until there are 53 sts on needle (i.e. there are 26 sts on each side of mid st). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Then work the 2 edge sts in each side in garter st and mid st in stockinette st.

Work diagram A.1-A.3 as follows: 2 edge sts, A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 1 st remains before mid st, A.3 over 1 st, K 1 (= mid st), A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 3 sts remain, A.3 over 1 st and 2 edge sts. When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 79 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.4-A.6 as follows: 2 edge sts, A.4 over 7 sts, repeat A.5 until 6 sts remain before mid st, A.6 over 6 sts, K 1 (= mid st), A.4 over 7 sts, repeat A.5 until 8 sts remain, A.6 over 6 sts and 2 edge sts. When A.4-A.6 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 105 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.1-A.3 as follows: 2 edge sts, A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 1 st remains before mid st, A.3 over 1 st, K 1 (= mid st), A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 3 sts remain, A.3 over 1 st and 2 edge sts. When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 131 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.7-A.9 as follows: 2 edge sts, A.7 over 8 sts, repeat A.8 until 7 sts remain before mid st, A.9 over 7 sts, K 1 (= mid st), A.7 over 8 sts, repeat A.8 until 9 sts remain, A.9 over 7 sts and 2 edge sts. When A.7-A.9 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 213 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.1-A.3 as follows: 2 edge sts, A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 1 st remains before mid st, A.3 over 1 st, K 1 (= mid st), A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 3 sts remain, A.3 over 1 st and 2 edge sts. When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 239 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.10-A.12 as follows: 2 edge sts, A.10 over 8 sts, repeat A.11 until 7 sts remain before mid st, A.12 over 7 sts, K 1 (= mid st), A.10 over 8 sts, repeat A.11 until 9 sts remain, A.12 over 7 sts and 2 edge sts. When A.10-A.12 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 257 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.1-A.3 as follows: 2 edge sts, A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 1 st remains before mid st, A.3 over 1 st, K 1 (= mid st), A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 3 sts remain, A.3 over 1 st and 2 edge sts. When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 283 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.13-A.15 as follows: 2 edge sts, A.13 over 10 sts, repeat A.14 until 9 sts remain before mid st, A.15 over 9 sts, K 1 (= mid st), A.13 over 10 sts, repeat A.14 until 11 sts remain, A.15 over 9 sts and 2 edge sts. When A.13-A.15 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 309 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.1-A.3 as follows: 2 edge sts, A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 1 st remains before mid st, A.3 over 1 st, K 1 (= mid st), A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 3 sts remain, A.3 over 1 st and 2 edge sts. When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 335 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.16-A.18 as follows: 2 edge sts, A.16 over 11 sts, repeat A.17 until 10 sts remain before mid st, A.18 over 10 sts, K 1 (= mid st), A.16 over 11 sts, repeat A.17 until 12 sts remain, A.18 over 10 sts and 2 edge sts. When A.16-A.18 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 417 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.1-A.3 as follows: 2 edge sts, A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 1 st remains before mid st, A.3 over 1 st, K 1 (= mid st), A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 3 sts remain, A.3 over 1 st and 2 edge sts. When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 443 sts on needle.

Piece measures approx. 65 cm / 25½'' measured along mid st. Loosely bind off and fasten the strands.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 24.03.2015
SHAWL (needle size 3mm, not 3.5mm) :
Cast on 9 sts on circular needle size 3 mm/US 2.5 with BabyAlpaca Silk...
Updated online: 02.06.2015
Correction: New diagram A.9.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 159-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (34)

country flag Josette Boudreau wrote:

Est-ce que le 1 er rang du diagramme À-16, 17,18 est correct. Il me manque 2 mailles dans la 1 ère partie et j’ ai 2 mailles de trop dans la seconde. Merci

16.05.2021 - 19:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Boudreau, si vous avez bien le bon nombre de mailles, vous aurez 167 m de chaque côté de la m centrale et tricotez ainsi: 2 m point mousse, 11 m de A.16, 18 fois les 8 m de A.17 et 10 m de A.17 = 2+11+18x8=144+10=167 m. En espérant que ceci puisse vous aider. Bon tricot!

17.05.2021 kl. 09:39

country flag Josette Boudreau wrote:

Je vous remercie énormément pour toute l’aide que vous nous apportez et si promptement. Merci mille fois

03.05.2021 - 13:17

country flag JosetteBoudreau wrote:

Dernière question svp. Dans le nombre de mailles inscrites ex le 53 avant le 1 er diagramme ou. Le 79 après le 1 er A-1 A-3, inclut-on les 4 mailles lisières ?

30.04.2021 - 16:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Boudreau, le nombre indiqué correspond au nombre total de mailles sur l'aiguille, autrement dit 53 mailles au total = 26 m avant la m centrale + la m centrale + 26 m après la m centrale pour les 53 m, puis toujours y compris les 2 m lis au point mouse de chaque côté ainsi que la maille centrale en jersey. Bon tricot!

03.05.2021 kl. 07:25

country flag Josette Boudreau wrote:

Je précise ma question. Dans un premier temps, dans les rangs précédant le diagramme A1, est-ce que je dois faire les augmentations à tous les 2 rangs sur l’endroit jusqu’à ce que j’aie 53 mailles? Ensuite, dans le A1, au 2e rang, on indique des carrés avec des ronds noirs qui correspondent à une maille endroit sur l’envers selon la légende, ne fait-on pas tous les rangs pairs à l’envers?. Merci beaucoup de votre aide

30.04.2021 - 12:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Boudreau, avant les diagrammes, on tricote au point mousse (= tous les rangs à l'endroit) et on doit augmenter tous les rangs sur l'endroit, autrement dit tous les 2 rangs (= 1 rang sur l'endroit avec 4 augmentations, 1 rang sur l'envers sans augmenter). Le 1er rang des diagrammes A.1-A.3 se fait ensuite sur l'endroit (= case blanche = mailles endroit sur l'endroit), le 2ème rang (point noir) se tricote sur l'envers en mailles endroit (= on obtient ainsi une côte mousse avec ces 2 rangs). les rangs de cases blanches sur l'envers se tricoteront eux en jersey envers. Bon tricot!

30.04.2021 kl. 13:21

country flag Josette wrote:

Quand on commence le patron au 14 e rang, je pense qu’on est rendu à tricoter un rang envers car dans la légende on dit de tricoter envers sûr envers. Si cela est juste, je ne comprends pas le 15 e rang où on dit de tricoter endroit sur envers, car moi je serais sur l’endroit. Pouvez-vous m’aider? Merci

29.04.2021 - 22:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Josette, quand vous avez terminé A.1-A.3 vous avez tricoté 12 rangs. Le rang suivant = le 13ème rang depuis le début se tricote sur l'endroit = 1er rang de A.4 à A.6. Les rangs sur l'envers se tricotent en mailles envers. Les rangs impairs se tricotent toujours sur l'endroit (1er rang de A.1-A.3 = sur l'endroit), les rangs pairs se tricoteront toujours sur l'envers. Pouvez-vous nous dire où vous en êtes des diagrammes exactement pour que l'on puisse vous aider? Merci!

30.04.2021 kl. 07:19

country flag Ingrid Leslie wrote:

In this shawl pattern, is the stitch count on either side of the centre stitch always equal?

09.07.2020 - 03:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Leslie, yes you should have the same number of stitches on each side of the middle stitch (you are working the same diagrams, the same way, with 2 edge sts on each side). Happy knitting!

09.07.2020 kl. 09:41

country flag Karolina wrote:

Är bilden tagen innan rättelsen om storlek på stickor? Jag tyckte att min sjal blev väldigt liten i förhållande till bilden, och jag fick mer än ett nystan över. Med orginalstickorna skulle jag kunna tänka mig att det skulle rimma bättre med bild och garnåtgång.. Eller är jag ute och cyklar?

07.05.2020 - 10:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karolina, sjalen på bilden är stickat med en stickfasthet på 24 m x 32 v = 10x10 cm. Några måste sticka med nr 3 andra med sticka nr 3½ för att få till stickfastheten. Lycka til :)

08.05.2020 kl. 13:11

country flag Patricia wrote:

Pourquoi y a t-il sur le diagramme A1 rang 11, 2 jetés en début de rang et pas à la fin du rang ? Je pense qu'il y a une erreur !!!!!

02.05.2020 - 13:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Patricia, ce n'est pas une erreur, on va bien augmenter 2 mailles à l'avant-dernier rang de A.1 mais 1 seule maille au même rang de A.3. Bon tricot!

04.05.2020 kl. 11:50

country flag Martina Huber wrote:

Frage geklärt...habs spiegelverkehrt abgezählt😱geht sich perfekt aus

13.04.2020 - 16:15

country flag Martina Huber wrote:

1. Mustersatz A.1-A.3..lt. Diagramm am ende 78 M Od sind am Ende von R 11 auch 2 umschläge zu stricken wie am Beginn der R.? Das selbe Problem bei mustersatz 2. A.4-A.6 105 M nach Anleitung..104M nach Mustersatz od auch am Ende der 11.R 2 umschläge wie am Anfang der Reihe 11? Bei jedem Mustersatz?

09.04.2020 - 20:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Huber, bei 11. Reihe in A.1 und in A.4 stricken Sie 2 Umschläge (aber nur bei dieser Reihe und diesen Diagrammen), so haben Sie am Ende A.1 -A.3: 2 Randmaschen, A.1 (= 8 M), A.2 (= 22 M), A.3 (=7 M), 1 Masche, A.1 (= 8 M), A.2 (= 22 M), A.3 (=7 M), 2 Randmaschen = 79 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.04.2020 kl. 09:42

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