DROPS design: Pattern no as-019
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: XS/S - M/L - XL/XXL
The jacket will stretch approx. 20 cm / 8'' from arm to arm when worn.

125-125-150 g color no 08, heather

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 6 mm / US 10 - or size needed to get 15 sts x 18 rows in pattern = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.75 $ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 2.75 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.75$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts.
Place circular needle double (or use another needle in approx. the same size in addition to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10) and cast on 147-176-205 sts (includes edge st) over the double needle with Brushed Alpaca Silk. This is done to make the cast-on edge elastic. Pull out one needle and work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Now work A.1A with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When A.1A has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 87-104-121 sts remain on needle and piece measures approx. 24 cm / 9½''. Continue with A.1B with 1 edge st in each side until piece measures 31-32-33 cm / 12 1/4"-12½"-13". Now cast on 56-53-53 sts in each side of sleeve - cast on over 2 needles the same way as at the bottom of body = 199-210-227 sts. Continue A1B as before but work the outermost 23-20-20 sts in each side in garter st. When piece measures 44-47-50 cm / 17 1/4"-18½"-19 3/4", insert 1 marker - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
When piece measures 13-15-17 cm / 5"-6"-6 3/4" - adjust so that next row is 1st row in A.1B – LOOSELY bind off the outermost 56-53-53 sts in each side (it is very important to have a loose bind off to avoid a tight seam under sleeves) = 87-104-121 sts on needle. Continue A.1B with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until piece measures 17-20-23 cm / 6 3/4"-8"-9" from marker. Then work A.2 with 1 edge st in each side. After A.2 there are 147-176-205 sts on needle. Work 1 ridge and LOOSELY bind off after last pattern row in A.2, piece should measure the same on each side of marker.

Sew edge A and A - see chart - tog inside 1 edge st. Sew B and B tog. The remaining opening is armhole. Repeat the same way with edge C and D on the other side.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = K 3 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 156-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (70)

country flag Mari Suominen wrote:

Hei, s koosta tuli aivan liian pieni edes kokoa 34 tai XS normaalisti käyttävälle tyttärelleni (kuvaa en saa nyt tähän liitettyä, mutta voin lähettää), vaikka valmis työ on mittojen mukainen!!!

26.10.2021 - 19:32:

country flag Alexandra wrote:

Hallo, ich habe nun die Ärmelzunahmen rechts gemacht. Fällt die krause Randmasche nun weg? Verstehe ich richtig dass ich 20 Maschen kraus recht stricke und dann gleich im A1B Muster anfange? Vielen Dank!

04.06.2021 - 17:23:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Alexandra, wenn Sie die 53 Maschen beidseitig für die Ärmel angeschlagen haben, stricken Sie so: 20 M kraus rechts, A.1B bis 20 M übrig sind, 20 M krausrechts, dh die Randmaschen sind jetzt krausrechte Maschen, keine "extra" Masche. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.06.2021 kl. 07:04:

country flag Melanie wrote:

Liebes Drops Team, wieviel Maschen sollten in Reihe 13 (4. Musterreihe) in A1. A auf der Nadel sein? Und wie oft wird der Mustersatz wiederholt? Ich stricke Größe M/L Vielen Dank!

24.05.2021 - 17:12:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Melanie, nach der 12. Reihe in A.1A haben Sie 25 Maschen in jedem A.1, dh Sie sollen 152 Maschen haben: 1 Randmasche, 25 M in jedem von den 6 A.1, 1 Randmasche. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.05.2021 kl. 08:50:

country flag Melanie wrote:

Liebes Drops Team, ich habe mit 176 Maschen gestartet und hänge in Reihe 13 A. 1A. Ich habe eine Randmasche, 5x2 zusammengestrickt, dann 8 Umschläge und 7 rechte und wieder 5x2 zusammen wiederholt. Egal wie oft ich durchzähle bleiben 5 Maschen übrig. Haben Sie eine Idee wo der Fehler ist? Vielen Dank!

20.05.2021 - 19:34:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Melanie, bei der 13. Reihe haben Sie keine 29 Masche mehr in jedem A.1A, es wurde schon bei dem 5. Reihe 2 Maschen in jedem A.1A abgenommen (= (2 M re zs) x 5, (1 M re, 1 Umschlag) x 8, 1 M re, (2 M re zs) x 5 = 5+16+1+5=27 M in jedem A.1A. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.05.2021 kl. 07:41:

country flag FENIOUX wrote:

Bonjour, je voudrais faire ce modèle mais je ne comprends pas comment faire les demi-devants pour cette veste, de plus, comment réaliser le col pour ouverture du cou ? Merci de m'expliquer cordialement isabelle fenioux le 09/03/2020

09.03.2020 - 09:29:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Fenioux, regardez le schéma des mesures: le bas de l'ouvrage correspond au bas du dos/côtés du gilet, on monte les manches de chaque côté puis on les rabat et on termine par la partie du haut (A.2) = qui correspond au col/devants/côtés. On assemble ensuite le gilet sur les côtés ( C + C pour un côté et A+A pour l'autre côté (manches = B et D). Bon tricot!

09.03.2020 kl. 12:51:

country flag Anna De Filippo wrote:

Salve quando dite un gettato tra due maglie cosa si intende ? dopo aver lavorato 2 maglie insieme si deve fare il gettato? e bellissima la giacca complimenti. Un grazie mille dalla Germania Anna

24.01.2020 - 01:18:

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Anna. L'indicazione tra due maglie, fa riferimento alla maglia che precede e a quella che segue la maglia gettata, indipendentemente da come sono lavorate queste maglie. Le alleghiamo un video che spiega come lavorare una maglia gettata. Buon lavoro!

24.01.2020 kl. 08:42:

country flag Kati wrote:

Hallo zusammen. Die Drops Wolle liegt hier vor mir, aber es scheitert an den Rückreihen! Ich verstehe leider nicht, wie ich die Rückreihen stricken soll! Also RR alle Maschen links oder rechts? Oder ganz anders. Ich grübel heir schon seit Tagen. Ihr seid hoffentlich meine Rettung. LG Kati

21.01.2020 - 17:53:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kati, Diagramme lesen Sie von der unteren Ecke rechts nach links = Hinreihen, und Rückreihen lesen Sie links nach rechts, dh die Rückreihen in A.1 und A.2 bei diesem Model werden immer links gestrickt. hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.01.2020 kl. 08:07:

country flag Tine wrote:

Hallo. Ich würde die Jacke gerne in der Drops Nord stricken, kann ich mich da an die Anleitung halten? MfG

05.12.2019 - 11:56:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Tine, Sie können 1 Faden Brushed Alpaca Silk durch 2 Fäden Nord ersetzen - hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.12.2019 kl. 12:49:

country flag Veronique wrote:

Bonjour, Après avoir lu et relu le diagramme A.1A je ne retombe pas sur la diminution de 60 mailles( de 147 mailles montées de base à 87) mais de70.... Merci de m'éclairer car je voudrais vraiment réaliser ce modèle!

01.08.2019 - 14:48:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Veronique. Quand vous commencez le diagramme A.1a vous avez 29 mailles pour chaque répétition. Aux rangs: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37 et 41 du diagramme, vous diminuez 2 mailles sur chacun de ces rangs = 12 mailles diminuées dans chaque répétition et 60 m diminués au total. Vérifiez bien les jetés et les diminutions sur ces rangs. Bon tricot!

02.08.2019 kl. 17:10:

country flag MONIQUE FORT wrote:

J'ai réalisé ce modèle il y a déjà 3ans. Je le porte toujours avec plaisir. C'est un vrai poids plume mais quel confort...par contre la laine a bouloché assez rapidement. Je n'ai rencontré aucun problème pour sa réalisation.

05.03.2019 - 20:43:

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