DROPS / 156 / 26

Gentle Breeze by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket worked in a circle in garter st and stockinette st in ”Verdi”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ve-051
Yarn group D
Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL /XXXL
Chest measurements: 88/96 – 104/114 – 126/138 cm / 34½"/37 3/4" - 41"/45" - 49½"/54 1/4"
DROPS VERDI from Garnstudio
350 g for all sizes in color no 09, turquoise

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 7 mm / US 10.75 - or size needed to get 14 sts x 16 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
48% Acrylic, 20% Wool, 17% Polyester, 15% Mohair
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

* Work 1 row over the first 10 sts on row, turn and work back. Work 1 row over the first 31 sts on row, turn and work back. Work 1 row over the first 52 sts on row, turn and work back. Work 1 row over all sts, turn and work back *, repeat from *-*, i.e. 8 rows at the widest and 2 rows at the most narrow in 1 repetition.

Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 64-70-76 sts on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Verdi. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work SHORT ROWS – see explanation above (1st row = from RS): 5 sts in garter st, stockinette st over the 54-60-66 sts and finish with 5 sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue with short rows until piece measures 38-39-41 cm / 15"-15 1/4"-16" at the most narrow and 160-164-172 cm / 63"-64½"-67½" at the widest. Work 1 ridge in garter st and bind off. Sew tog the cast-on and bind-off edge.

Work as right front piece/back piece.

Place the two part towards each other on the widest so that the 5 ridges are edge to edge, and sew tog in outer loops of edge sts approx. 30-35 cm / 11 3/4"-13 3/4" mid back – make sure that seam on the parts is mid under sleeve.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 156-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

Marie Poppins 11.11.2018 - 11:54:

Bonjour, Je ne suis pas sûre d'avoir bien compris...Après les 2 rangs de point mousse, le rang sur 10 mailles : on tricote 5mmousse puis 5mjersey endroit puis on retourne son ouvrage et on tricote 5mjersey envers puis 5mailles mousse. Les "5 m mousses- les mailles jersey -5 m mousse " de calculent sur les 2 rangs raccourcis? Ou faut il finir chaque rang raccourci par 5 mailles mousses. Merci

DROPS Design 12.11.2018 kl. 10:02:

Bonjour Mary Poppins, quand vous tricotez les rangs raccourcis, tricotez les mailles soit au point mousse (= les 5 premières et les 5 dernières mailles) soit en jersey (celles du milieu), par ex pour le 1er rang: 10 m = 5 m point mousse, 5 m jersey (2ème rang= 5 m env, 5 m end), 3ème rang: 5 m end, 26 m jersey (= 31 m), 4ème rang: 26 m env, 5 m end et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

Debbie 09.11.2018 - 14:31:

Is the arc the widest point for meaning or is it point to point? I am measuring to finish Knitting and not sure if it is the right size. ( the other question was what do the numbers on the drawing represent)

DROPS Design 09.11.2018 kl. 15:28:

Dear Debbie, the longuest measurement (=80-82-86 cm) is the total length of garment - the shorter length (= 19-20-21 cm) is the width of wrist/sleeve (folded = when worn). Each piece is 46-50-54 cm width from sleeve edge to middle front/back piece. Should you need any futher help to choose your size, please contact your DROPS store, even per mail or telephone, they will be able to give you further advices. Happy knitting!

Debbie 09.11.2018 - 02:47:

What is considered the widest for 64\" measurement. The outside circular edge or point to point. Also what are the numbers for on the drawing?

DROPS Design 09.11.2018 kl. 08:57:

Dear Debbie, all measurements in chart are taken in cm and measured flat from side to side - read more here. At the beginning of the pattern (header) you'll find the matching chest measurements in inches. Happy knitting!

Pamela Franks 20.06.2018 - 23:52:

If this pattern is correct and there are only 2 pieces, then I can only deduce the horizontal seam across the back, shown in the PHOTO for the pattern, is a result of the knitter sewing the back seam while the sleeve seams run across the back instead of under the arms, giving the appearance of three pattern pieces. Please review the PHOTO of the back of the garment and let me know if this is the case or if the wrong PHOTO is posted for this pattern.

DROPS Design 21.06.2018 kl. 08:24:

Dear Mrs Franks, picture is matching pattern, you work first the right front piece/back piece and sew the cast on edge to the cast off edge together on this piece (= ridge against ridge as you can see in the middle back on the picture). Work then the left front piece/back piece and sew the cast on edge to the cast off edge together. (ridge against ridge as for 1st piece). Now sew both pieces together along midback. Happy knitting!

Pamela Franks 19.06.2018 - 22:17:

I have made two of your garments in this shape (Summer Snug 154-8 and Barroque 149-6), so I understand the diagram. However the photo of this one shows what appears to be a horizontal seam across the back which seems to indicate thete are THREE pieces to this pattern. It is shown clearly on the photo of the BACK of the garment. Is this the correct photo for this pattern? I didn't see any instructions for a third piece.....

DROPS Design 20.06.2018 kl. 08:08:

Dear Mrs Franks, the ridge you can see in the back is the ridges at the beg and end end of each piece, ie you sew each piece together with cast on edge to cast off edge (1st ridge to last ridge on piece). There are 2 pieces (right front/back piece and left front/back piece) that are both sewn into a "ring" then you sew both pieces tog along back piece. Happy knitting!

Anna 10.02.2018 - 12:18:

Hi. Please can you explain when and how to join the edges first? I can see on the picture that the joining bit is on the back... Thanks

DROPS Design 11.02.2018 kl. 09:29:

Dear Arina, the back is sewn together in the following way: put the edges next to each other so they are barely touch. Then stitching in to the outer leg of the edge stitch one on the right side and one the left side pul them a bit closer. This way the sem lies flat and will not be chunky. Happy knitting!

Auberger 05.01.2018 - 10:58:

Bonjour, je voudrai des précisions sur les rangs raccourcis. Si j ai bien compris, il faut après avoir fait les 2 rangs côtes pt mousse,: 5mendroit, 10 m endroit puis retour des 10 m à l enverspuis 31 m endroit et 31 m envers pour le retourpuis 52 m endroit et 52 envers pour le retourpuis 60 m endroit et 60 envers pour le retour A que moment dois je tricoter mes 5 mailles en point mousse ? Faut il faire 5pt mousse à chaque début de rangs raccourcis ?

DROPS Design 08.01.2018 kl. 08:48:

Bonjour Mme Auberger, après les 2 rangs point mousse, tricotez ainsi: *2 rangs sur 10 m, 2 rangs sur 31 m, 2 rangs sur 52 m, 2 rangs sur toutes les mailles*, répétez de *-*, tricotez les 5 premières et les 5 dernières m au point mousse, et les autres en jersey, ainsi sur 10 m, vous tricotez 5 m point mousse, 5 m jersey sur l'endroit (= 5 m jersey, 5 m point mousse sur l'envers) et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

Deborah 01.12.2017 - 17:46:

È normale che tornando indietro nei ferri accorciati si formi un buco?

DROPS Design 02.12.2017 kl. 07:53:

Buongiorno Deborah. Sì un po’ il buco rimane. Ci sono diversi modi di lavorare i ferri accorciati. Le proponiamo alcuni video e può scegliere quello che dà il risultato che la soddisfa maggiormente. Il lavoro si uniforma anche un po’ con il lavaggio. Buon lavoro!

Silke Gade 14.12.2016 - 18:18:

Hi, I would like to use your pattern for the "Gentle Breeze" cardigan. You have discontinued the Verdi yarn. In order to calculate the amount of yarn I need, could you please tell me the number of metres it ran per 50 g? I love your patterns and the detailed help videos. Thank you, Silke

DROPS Design 15.12.2016 kl. 09:20:

Dear Mrs Gade, you will find here all informations about Verdi - see here some alternatives and more info here. Your DROPS store will provide you any further personnal assistance. Happy knitting!

María Le Blanc 27.07.2016 - 22:38:

No logro entender el patrón de este diseño y cada cuánto debo hacer las vueltas al revés por favor ¿

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