DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Summer Blush

Crochet DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Cotton Merino”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 154-1
DROPS design: Pattern no cm-002
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M - L - XL/XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-104-118-134 cm / 34½"-41"-46½"-52 3/4"
Full length: 56-58-62-66 cm / 22"-22 3/4"-24½"-26"

Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550 g color no 13, coral

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C – or size needed to get 3 repetitions of A.5 = width 11 cm / 4½''.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 7-7-8-8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.8.

CROCHET TIP:
Ch-spaces will contract more than crochet pattern at the upper part of body. The jacket will thus be naturally rounded without dec in pattern.

BUTTONHOLES:
Measure from neck edge at the front and sew buttons on left band:
SIZE S/M: 1, 7, 14, 21, 28, 35 and 41 cm / 3/8",2 3/4",5½",8 1/4",11",13 3/4",16 1/8"
SIZE L: 1, 7, 15, 22, 29, 36 and 43 cm / 3/8",2 3/4",6",8 3/4",11 3/8",14 1/4",17"
SIZE XL/XXL: 1, 8, 15, 21, 27, 33, 40 and 47 cm / 3/8",3 1/8",6",8 1/4",10 5/8",13",15 3/4",18½"
SIZE XXXL: 1, 8, 15, 22, 29, 36, 43 and 50 cm / 3/8",3 1/8",6",8 3/4",11 3/8",14 1/4",17",19 3/4"
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JACKET:
Worked in parts, top down and worked tog when finished.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work 54-66-79-92 ch with Cotton Merino on hook size 3 mm / C. Continue with 1 tr in 4th ch from hook = 2 tr. Continue to work as follows: 1 tr in each of the next 1-6-5-4 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 7-8-10-12 times in total = 45-56-67-78 tr.
(= 1ST ROW in diagrams A.4, A.5 and A.6).
Continue to work as follows:
ROW 2 (= WS): Work A.6, then work A.5 3-4-5-6 times in total, and finish with A.4. Turn piece.
ROW 3: Work A.6, then work A.5 3-4-5-6 times in total, and finish with A.4.
Continue back and forth with this pattern, AT THE SAME TIME inc for neck in right side of piece (seen from RS) from 6th row in diagram. When 8th row in diagram has been worked from WS, cut the yarn.
Then work 12 loose ch, before working as follows from RS (= 9th row): 1 tr in last tr on 8TH ROW. Continue with pattern according to diagram A.4, A.5 and A.6 as before. When piece measures 19-21-23-24 cm / 7½"-8 1/4"-9"-9½", insert a marker for armhole in the side, AT THE SAME TIME when A.4, A.5 and A.6 have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.x until piece measures approx. 27-29-31-33 cm / 10½"-11½"-12 1/4"-13". Adjust so that pattern is finished on a row with ch-spaces from WS. Then work ch-spaces with 5 ch in every space as follows from RS: Continue with 1ST ROW in A.Z. Repeat the 4 rows in A.Z until piece measures 51-55-57-61 cm / 10½"-11½"-12 1/4"-13" in total – Read CROCHET TIP!
Work an edge as follows, beg from WS: Beg on 1st row in A.X. Work A.6, A.5 3-4-5-6 times in width, A.4. Continue back and forth until 2nd row in A.X with tr-groups has been worked (i.e. until 6th row in A.X has been worked). Piece measures approx. 56-58-62-66 cm / 22"-22 3/4"-24½"-26". Fasten off. Put piece aside and work right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Beg and work as left front piece but reversed. Adjust according to left front piece.

BACK PIECE:
First work right shoulder as follows:
Work 52-64-77-90 ch with Cotton Merino on hook size 3 mm / C. Cut the yarn and put piece aside.
Then work left shoulder as follows:
Work 54-66-79-92 ch with Cotton Merino on hook size 3 mm / C. Continue with 1 tr in 4th ch from hook = 2 tr. Continue to work as follows: 1 tr in each of the next 1-6-5-4 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 7-8-10-12 times in total = 45-56-67-78 tr for left shoulder.
Then work 43 LOOSE ch before continuing over right shoulder (i.e. the ch-row): Continue with 1 tr in the first 2 ch on row = 2 tr. Continue to work as follows: 1 tr in each of the next 1-6-5-4 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 7-8-10-12 times in total = 45-56-67-78 tr for right shoulder.
Turn piece (= WS), and work 1 tr in each of the 45-56-67-78 next tr, then work 1 tr in each of the next 43 ch, and finish with 1 tr in each of the next 45-56-67-78 tr = 133-155-177-199 tr. NOTE! This row is the 1st row in diagram A.1, A.2 and A.3.
On next row work as follows (= RS): A.1, then work A.2 11-13-15-17 times in total, and finish with A.3. Continue as follows. When piece measures 19-21-23-24 cm / 7½"-8 1/4"-9"-9½", insert a marker each side to mark armholes, AT THE SAME TIME when A.1, A.2 and A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.Y until piece measures approx. 27-29-31-33 cm / 10½"-11½"-12 1/4"-13". Adjust pattern according to front pieces. Then work ch-spaces with 5 ch in every space as follows from RS: Continue with 1ST ROW in A.Z. Repeat the 4 rows in A.Z until piece measures 51-55-57-61 cm / 10½"-11½"-12 1/4"-13" in total – adjust according to front pieces.
Work an edge at the bottom of body as on front pieces. Fasten off. Put piece aside. Piece measures approx. 56-58-62-66 cm / 22"-22 3/4"-24½"-26". Sew shoulder seams on front pieces and back piece tog.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth from body and outwards.
ROW 1: Beg at one of the markers, and work ch-spaces along armhole as follows: * ch 5, skip approx. 1½ cm / ½'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-* until there are 22-26-27-28 ch-spaces in total between the two markers.
Continue with pattern from 2nd row in diagram A.Z, AT THE SAME TIME at beg of the next 2 rows dec 1 ch-space in the side – See diagram A.7 for left side of sleeve, and A.8 for right side of sleeve. 20-24-25-26 ch-spaces remain. Repeat the same dec at beg of the next 2-4-4-4 rows = 18-20-21-22 ch-spaces remain. Continue with ch-spaces as before, AT THE SAME TIME dec as follows: for S/M dec 1 ch-space in each side of sleeve when piece measures 15 cm / 6'', and for sizes L - XL/XXL – XXXL dec 1 ch-space in each side of sleeve when piece measures 13-12-11 cm / 5"-4 3/4"-4½" and 1 ch-space in each side when piece measures 19-18-15 cm / 7½"-7"-6" = 16-16-17-18 ch-spaces remain. Continue until sleeve measures 27-25-23-20 cm / 10½"-9 3/4"-9"-8" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), and adjust to finish on next to last row in A.Z (i.e. a row with whole ch-spaces in each side of piece). Then work an edge as follows: Beg on 1st row in A.X (= row with ch-spaces, and half ch-spaces in each side of piece) and work this pattern over all ch-spaces at the bottom of sleeve. Continue back and forth until 6th row in A.X has been worked (i.e. 2nd row in with tr-groups). Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Work underarm seams and side seams in one as follows: 1 sc in front piece, ch 3, 1 sc in back piece, * ch 3, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', 1 sc in front piece, ch 3, skip 1 cm / 3/8'', 1 sc in back piece *, repeat from *-* and continue the same way for sleeve.

NECK EDGE AND BAND:
Then work an edge along the band and neck. Beg at the bottom on right front piece, and work as follows: Fasten yarn with one sc, * ch 3, skip 1 cm / 3/8'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-* along right band, neck and left band.
Sew buttons on to the left band - see explanation above. Button through a hole in right front piece.


This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 30.04.2014
New diagram: Changes in row 3 and 4 of A.1, A.2 and A.3

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 tr
symbols = 1 sc in space
symbols = 1 sc in st
symbols = 1 loop: 1 sc, ch 3, 1 sc
symbols = 1st ch-row - see explanation in pattern
symbols = When 8TH ROW has been worked, cut the yarn, and work new ch for neck.
symbols = When the entire diagrams A.4, A.5 and A.6 have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat pattern A.X from 1ST ROW in this diagram.
symbols = When working an edge at the bottom of body and sleeve, beg on this row.
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (179)

country flag Jo Murphy wrote:

Nice pattern, but I can understand where some people may have a problem. Your diagrams for the front and back are different. In AX there are 4 dtr at each end of the row but in AY there is 3 at the beginning and 4 at the end. Also the number of turning chain for rows 12 and 14 is 8 in AX but for the back there are 7 on row 4, 6 on row 6 and then changes to 8 for row 12 and 7 for row 14 in AY. Is this correct?

15.02.2023 - 23:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Murphy, diagrams have been edited, thanks for your feedback. Happy crocheting!

09.03.2023 - 15:38

country flag Linda wrote:

Beste, als ik het aantal steken van de beide voorpanden optel kom ik op 136 ( maat L) steken (op het breedste stuk). Bij het rugpand wordt er gesproken over 155 steken, waardoor het rugpand een stuk breder wordt. Klopt dit?

15.06.2022 - 15:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Linda,

Na de eerste toer heb je op beide voorpanden 56 steken, maar daarna haak je verder in patroon en komen er steken bij aan de zijde van A.4.

16.06.2022 - 22:15

country flag Ve Adams wrote:

Could someone explain to me in words how I go about rows 3 and 4 in the A4, A5 and A6 section. I keep looking and looking at it and just can't figure out how to even start. Thanks

18.02.2022 - 09:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Adams, each stitch is represented by a symbol, when reading diagrams, refers first to the diagram key to know how to crochet, then work - from RS: A.4, then repeat A.5 and finish with A.6 and from WS: work A.6, repeat A.5 and finish with A.4 - reading from the left towards the right. This lesson explains how to crochet diagrams. Happy crocheting!

18.02.2022 - 14:18

country flag Ve Adams wrote:

Row 2 of left front piece states to do A6 then A5 then A4. So why is row 3 A6, A5, A4? As I've turned so shouldn't it be A4, A5 then A6?

16.02.2022 - 18:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Ve, You are quite right, when working back you reverse the pattern. Happy knitting!

17.02.2022 - 06:48

country flag Jo wrote:

I have crocheted one of your patterns before and found it difficult to follow and not clear instructions. A friend gave up on it because she found it too difficult to follow. Then I liked this one and find it too is not easy to follow. Sorry, but I’m giving up on this one.

21.09.2021 - 12:07

country flag Carol Anne Dashwood wrote:

I would love to make this blush top but it looks so difficult. What does A1 A2 A3 A5 etc. mean? Is this for advanced skill crochet as i am beginner intermediate but just love this design Carol

24.05.2021 - 19:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carol Anne, this is actually not that complicated piece, and intermediate crocheter can easily do it. A.1, A.2 etc are elements of the pattern, like A.1 is what you start with, A.2 is the part you repeat, A.3 is how you finish a row. A.4-A.5 shows how you shape the neckline. There are a few tutorial you can use, they are linked below the pattern, and you can always ask for help in the store you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy Crafting!

24.05.2021 - 20:49

country flag Helle Nordal wrote:

Jeg er ved at hækle Summer Blush, men kan ikke få diagram A6, A5 og A4 til at passe med maskeantallet, da jeg skal gentage A6 og A5 6 gange, og det får jeg til at blive mere end 92 masker

11.03.2021 - 15:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helle, første række er forklaret i opskriften, når du har hæklet den har du 78 dbl-st. Nu starter du med A6, og gentager kun A5 6 gange og afslutter med A4. God fornøjelse!

12.03.2021 - 08:57

country flag Susan Williamson wrote:

I have made the two fronts and am now working on the back, but it is so big. I am usually a medium but I have now started it in small - but it is still way too big. I have also gone down a crochet hook size and my crochet is tight, rather than loose, but I can't get three repeats to anything like 11cm. Is anyone else having this problem with this pattern?

31.07.2020 - 18:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Williamson, are you working with DROPS Cotton Merino? Read more about tension here. Happy crocheting!

03.08.2020 - 07:29

country flag Cinzia wrote:

All'inizio della spiegazione di DAVANTI SINISTRO non capisco cosa devo fare con la dicitura : "1 m.a.d in ognuna delle 1-6-5-4 cat successive" ; non vedo la corrispondenza col disegno! Grazie

15.07.2020 - 22:51

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Cinzia, a seconda della taglia deve lavorare 1 maglia alta doppia nella catenella successiva per la taglia S/M, nelle 6 cat successive per la taglia L, nelle 5 catenelle successive per la taglia XL/XXL, nelle 4 catenelle successive per la taglia XXXL. Buon lavoro!

25.09.2020 - 09:26

country flag Annemarie Kappen wrote:

Hoi, ik heb hetzelfde probleem, ook achterpand breder dan voorpanden. Endat terwijl ik met de zelfde haaknaald gebruik. De fout moet dan in het patroon zitten

24.06.2020 - 13:53