DROPS / 155 / 18

Stormy Weather by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper in garter st in 2 strands "Brushed Alpaca Silk". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no as-006
Yarn group C+C or E
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-104-112-124-136 cm / 34½''-37¾''-41''-44''-48¾''-53½''
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23½''-24½''-25¼''-26''-26¾''

100-100-125-125-150-150 g color no 01, off white
100-100-125-125-150-150 g color no 04, light beige

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 9 mm/ US 13 - or size needed to get 10 sts x 18 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm) with 2 strands.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 3.95 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

Inc 1 st by making 1 YO inside 1 edge st in each side. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

Worked back and forth on circular needle. Loosely cast on 44-48-52-56-62-68 sts on circular needle size 9 mm / US 13 with 1 strand of each color. Now work in GARTER ST - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3½"-3½"-3½", insert 1 marker in each side of piece (vent beg here). When piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm / 17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½''-19'', bind off for armholes as follows: bind off 2-2-2-3-4-4 sts at beg of the next 2 rows = 40-44-48-50-54-60 sts.
When piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm / 21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½'', bind off the middle 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to bind off 2 sts on next row from neck = 13-15-16-17-18-21 sts remain on each shoulder. LOOSELY bind off all sts when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''.

Work as on back piece but do bind off for neck when piece measures 51-53-55-56-58-60 cm / 20"-21"-21½"-22"-22 3/4"-23½" as follows: bind off the middle 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to bind off 1 st on every row from neck 4 times in total = 13-15-16-17-18-21 sts remain on each shoulder. Loosely bind off when front piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''.

Loosely cast on 20-20-22-22-24-24 sts on circular needle size 9 mm / US 13 with 1 strand of each color and work in garter st back and forth. When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', inc 1 st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 11-8½-8½-7-6½-5½ cm / 4½"-3 1/4"-3 1/4"-2 3/4"-2½"-2 1/4" 4-5-5-6-6-7 times (= 5-6-6-7-7-8 in total) = 30-32-34-36-38-40 sts. Insert 1 marker in each side of sleeve when it measures 50-49-49-47-45-43 cm / 19 3/4"-19 1/4"-19 1/4"-18½"-17 3/4"-17" (for assembly). When piece measures 52-51-51-50-49-47 cm / 20½"-20"-20"-19 3/4"-19 1/4"-18½" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), loosely bind off all sts.

ASSEMBLY: Sew right shoulder seam inside bind-off edges.

NECK EDGE: Pick up from RS approx. 50-60 sts along the neck on circular needle size 9 mm / US 13 with 1 strand of each color. K 4 rows back and forth (= 2 ridges) and loosely bind off.

ASSEMBLY: Sew left shoulder seam inside bind-off edges and sew tog neck edge. Sew in sleeves, sew sleeve seams in outer loops of edge sts - NOTE: Section worked back and forth after marker at the top of sleeve should fit the bind off for armhole. Sew side seam from armhole down to marker on back piece in outer loops of edge sts: Vent = 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3½"-3½"-3½".


All measurements in charts are in cm.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 155-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (56)

Lois 21.01.2020 - 18:41:

Hello, please could you advise me on what to do when it comes to casting off the shoulders after the neck? It says cast off 2 stitches on next row from neck, how do I cast off the last stitch when I need to keep knitting the 13 stitches after for the shoulder? Do I pull the yarn through the last stitch as normal with binding off then cut yarn and rejoin it to finish knitting the last 13 stitches please?

DROPS Design 22.01.2020 kl. 07:47:

Hi Lois, Cast off by passing the first stitch over the second (after they have been worked) and then the second stitch over the third. Then you can continue working the row without cutting the strand. Happy knitting!

Jean Hausgaard-Olesen 19.01.2020 - 16:43:

Hvis jeg strikker på pind 9 får jeg 12 masker på 9 pinde. Jeg kunne sikkert komme ned på 10 masker på en pind 10, men hvordan det skal blive 18 pinde på 10 masker forstår jeg ikke. Kan I hjælpe med at forklare det? Hvad er garnforbruget ca på denne opskrift?

DROPS Design 27.01.2020 kl. 13:19:

Hei Jean. Husk at denne genseren skal strikkes med 2 tråder og du skal ha på pinne 9, 10 masker i bredden og 18 pinner i høyden med rillestrikk på 10 x 10 cm. Garnforbruket finner du til høyre for / eller under bildet. Fod Fornøyelse!

Helene 28.08.2018 - 04:05:

Taille S - Devant Si je rabats 6 mailles au milieu cela devrait me donner 19 mailles de chaque côté pour les épaules. Donc si je rabats ensuite 1 maille x 4 (donc 4 mailles), cela devrait me donner 15 mailles (19-4=156) de chaque côté et non 13 mailles. Les mailles à rabattre (1 maille 4 fois) Est ce qu'on les rabats pour le col (donc au milieu) ou pour les épaules (sur le côté) ? Ou dois-je rabattre 2 mailles pour le col et 2 mailles pour les épaules ?

DROPS Design 04.09.2018 kl. 13:23:

Bonjour Hélène, vous formez les emmanchures sur le devant comme pour le dos = il reste 40 m - 6 m pour l'encolure = 34 m soit 17 m pour chaque épaule = 4 fois 1 diminution pour l'encolure = 17-4= il reste 13 m pour l'épaule. Bon tricot!

Alexandra 23.04.2018 - 21:03:

Hej! Detta mönstret ser jättefint ut! Jag skulle dock vilja ha min tröja väldigt tun och luftig och undrar därför om det går att sticka den med bara en tråd? Hur gör jag isf? Tack på förhand!

DROPS Design 24.04.2018 kl. 11:32:

Hej Alexandra, som denna kanske: DROPS 95-30 se kommentarer om hur du konverterar till 1 tråd DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk :)

Alexandra 23.04.2018 - 20:12:

Hej! Detta mönstret ser jättefint ut! Jag skulle dock vilja ha min tröja väldigt tun och luftig och undrar därför om det går att sticka den med bara en tråd? Hur gör jag isf? Tack på förhand!

Louise 15.02.2017 - 01:18:

Bonjour, je pense avoir la même question que la personne dans le dernier commentaire...mais je ne lis malheureusement pas le danois :) Je ne comprends pas les instructions suivantes : "À 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm de hauteur totale, rabattre pour les emmanchures 2-2-2-3-4-4 m au début des 2 rangs suivants = 40-44-48-50-54-60 m" Je tricote le modèle en L, je suis à 45cm, quelles sont les étapes ensuite ? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse, je débute...

DROPS Design 15.02.2017 kl. 09:41:

Bonjour Louise, en taille L, quand l'ouvrage mesure 45 cm, rabattez les 2 premières m au début du rang sur l'endroit, tricotez le rang jusqu'à la fin, tournez et rabattez les 2 premières m au début du rang suivant sur l'envers et continuez comme avant sur les 48 m restantes jusqu'à 59 cm où vous commencerez l'encolure. Bon tricot!

Olivia Barkmann 07.02.2017 - 19:54:

Hej. der står i opskriften: Når arb måler 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm lukkes der af til ærmegab således: Luk 2-2-2-3-4-4 m af i beg af næste 2 p = 40-44-48-50-54-60 m. Når arb måler 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm lukkes de midterste 10-10-12-12-14-14 m af til hals og hver skulder strikkes færdig for sig. det forstår jeg ikke hvordan man gør, eller hvordan det skal se ud.

DROPS Design 08.02.2017 kl. 14:02:

Hej Olivia. Hvis du strikker f.eks. str S har du 44 m paa pinden. Saa lukker du 2 m af i begyndelsen af de naeste 2 p = 40 m tilbage. Saa strikker du til 55 cm og saa lukker du de midterste 10 m af = 15 m paa hver skulder. Og til sidst lukker du 2 m af paa halssiden af hver skulder = 13 m tilbage. Du strikker skuldrene hver for sig. Haaber det hjaelper dig :)

Birgit 19.09.2016 - 18:31:

Bonjour, ce pull peut-il être tricoté avec un simple fil au lieu de double, et si oui, dans ce cas combien de pelotes en taille s. Merci cordialement

DROPS Design 20.09.2016 kl. 09:41:

Bonjour Birgit, on tricote ici avec 2 fils du groupe C que l'on peut remplacer par 1 fil du groupe E - vous trouverez ici toutes les informations relatives aux alternatives et le mode de calcul. Bon tricot!

Selam 07.06.2016 - 23:56:

Thanks for quick reply i am affraid i still do not understand this instruction. What does it really refers to? Number of rows or stich counts? I have a total of 8 cast offs on the body.And about 12cm from castoffs for sleeves to top of shoulders. And 2 cm from marker to cast off on the sleeves (working size S). And about 12cm from castoff for sleeves on the body piece. Thanks

DROPS Design 08.06.2016 kl. 08:52:

Dear Selam, in size S you have cast off 2 sts on each side of back/front piece for armhole (when piece measures 43 cm) - tension is 10 sts = 10 cm, 2 sts = 2 cm. There is a marker on each side of top of sleeve 2 cm (when sleeve measure 50 cm) before finished measurement (cast off sleeve when piece measure 52 cm). These 2 cm along sleeve will be sewn tog to the 2 sts (= 2 cm) on back and on front piece. Happy assembly!

Selam 07.06.2016 - 01:30:

Can you please explain what this means? (NOTE: Section worked back and forth after marker at the top of sleeve should fit the cast off for armhole.)???

DROPS Design 07.06.2016 kl. 09:07:

Dear Selam, the top of sleeve after markers on each side should fit the sts you cast off on each side of body (back and front piece) for armholes. These extra cm worked after these markers will be then sewn tog to the sts you cast off for armhole. Happy knitting!

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