DROPS / 147 / 40

Claire by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS vest in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no z-638
Yarn group A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Chest measurements: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm /
31½''-34 5/8''-37¾''-41¾''-46½''-51''

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-350 g color no 101, white
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-150-150-150-150 g color no 01, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm / US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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BODY:
The vest is worked top down.
Cast on 142-154-164-178-184-198 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work A.1 with 2 edge sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, in each side until piece measures 12 cm / 4¾''.
Then work in stockinette st with 2 edge sts in garter st while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row from RS inc 52-56-58-64-66-70 sts evenly = 194-210-222-242-250-268 sts.
When piece measures 19-19-19-19-19-19 cm / 7½" for all sizes, work in garter st over armholes on next row from WS as follows: 2 sts in garter st, 31-33-34-38-41-48 sts in stockinette st, 2 sts in garter st, 124-136-146-158-160-164 sts in stockinette st, 2 sts in garter st, 31-33-34-38-41-48 sts in stockinette st, 2 sts in garter st. Work 3 rows with stockinette st over stockinette st and garter st over garter st.
Piece measures approx. 21-21-21-21-21-21 cm / 8 1/4" for all sizes, and now divide for armhole as follows: Slip the first 34-36-37-41-44-51 sts at beg of row (seen from RS) on 1 stitch holder (= right front piece).
Slip the next 126-138-148-160-162-166 sts on another stitch holder (= back piece).
There are now 34-36-37-41-44-51 sts on needle for left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 34-36-37-41-44-51 sts. Now work in stockinette st with 2 sts in garter st towards mid front and 1 st in garter st towards armhole until piece measures approx. 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm / 15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼'' (armhole measures 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm / 7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8 ¾''-9''), make sure that next row to be worked is from WS. Slip sts on a stitch holder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Slip sts from stitch holder back on circular needle (= 34-36-37-41-44-51 sts) and work as left front piece, slip sts on a stitch holder when piece measures approx. 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm / 15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼'', make sure that next row is from WS.

BACK PIECE:
Slip sts from stitch holder back on circular needle (=126-138-148-160-162-166 sts) and work in stockinette st with 1 st in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 33-35-37-35-37-39 cm / 13"-13 3/4"-14½"-13 3/4"-14½"-15 1/4", insert a marker on each side of the middle 2 sts on row.
On next row from RS inc 2 sts by making 1 YO before 1st marker and 1 YO after 2nd marker. On next row from WS P the YOs twisted – SEE INCREASE TIP!
Repeat inc on every other row (i.e. on every row from RS), 19-19-19-23-23-23 more times (= 20-20-20-24-24-24 inc in total).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm / 15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼'' (make sure that next row is from WS), slip left and right piece on to needle and work in stockinette st BUT work the first 4 rows with 2 sts in garter st under both armholes.
Continue in stockinette st with 2 sts in garter st in each side until piece measures 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm / 21''-21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''-24''-24¾''.
On next row from RS dec 62-66-66-78-78-84 sts evenly (do not dec over the 2 sts in garter st in each side) = 172-184-196-212-220-232 sts.
Work 1 row in stockinette st with 2 sts in garter st in each side. On next row from RS work A.1 with 2 edge sts in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm / 25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾''-29½'' (A.1 measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾''), loosely bind off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= P from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 147-40) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (48)

Florence 08.10.2018 - 10:00:

Bonjour, votre réponse me laisse perplexe : avec un échantillon de 17 m pour 10 cm..en jersey. si je montre 142 m, j'obtiens 83 cm (calcul de proportionnalité avec une règle de trois)..et donc pas les 114 cm indiqués. Il y a deux options: Soit les mesures indiquées en cm ne sont pas correctes, soit c'est le nombre de mailles indiqués...Alors qu'en pensez vous ?

DROPS Design 08.10.2018 kl. 10:05:

Bonjour Florence, le point ajouré de A.1 va probablement jouer sur la tension, raison pour laquelle vous pouvez tricoter les explications comme indiqué, pensez juste à bien vérifier votre échantillon et à ajuster la taille de vos aiguilles si besoin. Bon tricot!

Florence 06.10.2018 - 13:32:

Bonjour, vous indiquez qu'il faut monter 142 m, et que ceci doit correspondre à 114 cm ( d'aprés les valeurs indiquées sur le schéma du modèle, en taille S) . Si je fais le calcul à a partir de l'échantillon 17 m = 10 cm, il faudrait que je monte 193 mailles...Je ne comprends pas. Ou est l'erreur ? Merci d'avance pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 08.10.2018 kl. 08:28:

Bonjour Florence, vous montez bien 142 m, tricotez A.1 (point ajouré) pendant 12 cm puis continuez en jersey en augmentant 52 m à intervalles réguliers = vous avez ainsi les 194 m de la largeur du haut du gilet. Si votre échantillon est juste, vous devriez avoir les mesures indiquées dans le schéma. Bon tricot!

Eli 27.05.2017 - 20:59:

I am also confused about the armhole spacing. For the size XXL when I split the stitches 51-166-51 they hang down around the elbows when in the picture it looks like that split should be on top of the shoulder.

DROPS Design 29.05.2017 kl. 09:25:

Dear Eli, jacket is worked top down, in the largest size, you first work for 23 cm over the 51 first sts, then work for 23 cm over the last 51 sts, then work for 23 cm over the 166 sts before working sts from front pieces back tog with the sts from back piece. Happy knitting!

Terhi 18.05.2017 - 18:59:

Should the arm holes be placed around 45cm from sides (size M) instead of 21cm? The model looks like she has about that much fabric hanging loose in front of the body. And 81cm in the back means the arm holes would be hanging around the elbows. I think the arm holes are too wide apart.

DROPS Design 19.05.2017 kl. 09:14:

Dear Terhi, Jacket is worked top down: armholes are placed 21 cm from the sides, ie the first 36 sts (= 2 sts in garter st, 33 sts in stocking st, 1 st in garter st) on row = left front piece then the next 138 sts (= 1 st in garter st, 136 st in stocking st, 1 st in garter st) = back piece and the last 36 sts (= 1 st in garter st, 33 sts in stocking st, 2 sts in garter st) = right front piece. After you have worked each piece separately (first the left front piece, then the right front piece then back piece) for the armholes, work all pieces tog (see under BACK PIECE: When piece measures approx. 40 cm ...). Happy knitting!

Caro 16.03.2016 - 11:06:

Hallo, Auch wenn die Umschläge links verschränkt abgestrickt werden, entstehen kleine Löcher. Ist das so gewollt?

DROPS Design 16.03.2016 kl. 18:27:

Liebe Caro, wenn es Ihnen nicht gelingt, die Umschläge abzustricken, ohne dass ein Loch entsteht, könnten Sie auch eine Masche verschränkt aus dem Querfaden aufnehmen. Ab besten schauen Sie sich mal alle Videos zum Thema "Maschen zunehmen / aufnehmen an und probieren, was für Sie am besten passt.

Aggeliki 25.02.2015 - 19:18:

126 sts for back piece is wrong?There are many 74 cm for the back.

DROPS Design 26.02.2015 kl. 14:48:

Dear Aggeliki, pattern is correct, the 74 cm goes from one shoulder to another (see picture of back piece) and match to the loose fitting. Happy knitting!

Aggeliki 25.02.2015 - 14:10:

I think the number of points on the back piece is wrong. The separation of points in three parts is certainly 34-126-34(small size);

DROPS Design 25.02.2015 kl. 15:33:

Dear Aggeliki, you are correct, that's how it is explained, you slip the first 34 sts from RS on 1 st holder, slip the next 126 sts for back piece on another st holder and keep the last 34 sts on row on needle for left front piece (in 1st size). Happy knitting!

Lucie Giebelhaus 29.12.2014 - 18:04:

When I print the pattern I don't get the diagram A-1--how can I get it.

DROPS Design 30.12.2014 kl. 14:15:

Dear Mrs Giebelhaus, diagram A.1 is at the right side of measurement chart (should be on page 3 when printing pattern), it's a small diagram with 2 sts in width and 4 rows in height. Happy knitting!

Christine 29.12.2014 - 18:01:

Hi. I am attempting to make pattern number 147-40 but the actual A.1 diagram is missing from the pattern. Could you please tell me where I can find the stitch?

DROPS Design 30.12.2014 kl. 14:38:

Dear Christine, you will find the diagram A.1 at the right side of measurement chart, it's a small diagram worked over 2 sts and 4 rows. Happy knitting!

Daniela Rogg 13.03.2014 - 14:22:

Hallo, mich würde interessieren welche Maße die Weste in XXXl hat. Leider find ich die genauen Maßangaben nicht in der Beschreibung

DROPS Design 14.03.2014 kl. 12:58:

Liebe Daniela, die Zahlen in der Schnittübersicht sind die cm-Angaben.

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