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Edith by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS round carpet in 3 strands ”Paris”.

Keywords: carpet, chunky knits, circle, lace

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DROPS 147-16
DROPS design: Pattern no w-479
Yarn group C + C + C
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Measurements: approx. 83 cm / 32 3/4'' in diameter (see explanation below for LARGER CARPET).

Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
700 g color 01, apricot (for small carpet in picture)

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 8 mm / L/11 – or size needed to get 8 dc in width and 4.5 dc vertically with 3 strands Paris = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4'' (PATTERN A.1 and A.2 = 4 rows with dc vertically).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.60 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.40$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
TIPS:
The carpet can be crochet to desired measure. We made a smaller carpet that measures approx 83 cm/ 32 3/4" in diameter and one a bit larger that measures approx 125 cm/ 49" in diameter. For the small carpet you need 700 g Paris as explained above, and for the larger one you need approx 1300 g Paris.

CROCHET INFO:
On every round with dc beg round with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (see separate explanation on round with PATTERN A.1 and A.2).

PATTERN A.1 (divisible by 4 sts):
Pattern consists of 4 rounds and diagram A.1 shows 5th and 6th round in pattern. Work as follows:
ROUND 5: ch 4 (= 1 dc + 1 ch), skip 1 dc, in next dc work 1 dc + ch 7 + 1 dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, then work pattern according to A.1 as follows: * ch 1, skip 1 dc, in next dc work 1 dc + ch 7 + 1 dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc **, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 6: Work according to diagram A.1 as follows: * Work 7 dc in next ch-space, work 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 12 dc-groups.
ROUND 7: Work 1 sl st in each of the next 2 dc, ch 1, 1 sc in 4th dc in dc-group, * ch 7, 1 sc in 4th dc on next dc-group *, repeat from *-* 11 times in total, finish with ch 7 and 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 12 ch-spaces and 96 sts in total on round.
ROUND 8: ch 3 (= 1 dc), * ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 1 and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 48 dc and 1 ch between every dc (= 96 sts in total on round).

PATTERN A.2 (divisible by 6 sts):
Pattern consists of 4 rounds and diagram A.2 shows 14th and 15th round in pattern. Work as follows:
ROUND 14: ch 4 (= 1 dc + 1 ch), skip 2 dc, in next dc work 1 dc + ch 7 + 1 dc, ch 1, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, then work pattern according to A.2 as follows: * ch 1, skip 2 dc, in next dc work 1 dc + ch 7 + 1 dc, ch 1, skip 2 dc **, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 15: Work according to diagram A.2 as follows: * Work 7 dc in next ch-space, work 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 26 dc-groups.
ROUND 16: Work 1 sl st in each of the next 2 dc, ch 1, 1 sc in 4th dc in dc-group, * ch 7, 1 sc in 4th dc in next dc-group, ch 7, 1 sc in 4th dc on next dc-group, ch 6, 1 sc in 4th dc on next dc-group, ch 7, 1 sc in 4th dc on next dc-group, ch 7, 1 sc in 4th dc on next dc-group, ch 7, 1 sc in 4th dc on next dc-group *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total, ch 7, 1 sc in 4th dc on next dc-group, 7 ch and 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 26 ch-spaces and 204 sts in total on round.
ROUND 17: ch 3 (= 1 dc), * ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 1 and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 102 dc and 1 ch between every dc (= 204 sts in total on round).
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CARPET:
With 3 strands Paris ch 4 on hook size 8 mm / L/11 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Read CROCHET INFO! Work 12 dc in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 dc in every dc = 24 dc.
ROUND 3: * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 dc.
ROUND 4: * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 dc.
ROUND 5-8: Work PATTERN A.1 - see explanation above.
ROUND 9: Remember CROCHET INFO! Work * 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in each of the next 7 sts *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 108 dc.
ROUND 10: * 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in each of the next 8 sts *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 120 dc.
ROUND 11-13: Continue inc as on round 9 and 10 (i.e. on every round worked, work 1 dc more between every time 2 dc are worked in same st = 12 sts inc per round). After 13th round there are 156 dc on round.
ROUND 14-17: Work PATTERN A.2 - see explanation above.
ROUND 18: * 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in each of the next 16 sts *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 216 dc.
Fasten off.

LARGER CARPET:
If you want a larger carpet, continue after 18th round on carpet as follows:
Continue inc as on round 18, i.e. on every round worked, work 1 dc more between every time 2 dc are worked in same st = 12 sts inc per round.
When piece is at desired measurements, work according to diagram A.2 (= 2 rounds). After A.2 work the last 3 rounds on carpet as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 sl st in each of the next 2 dc, ch 1, 1 sc in 4th dc in dc-group, * ch 7, 1 sc in 4th dc on next dc-group *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 7 and 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 2: ch 3 (= 1st dc), * ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 1 and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 3: ch 3, then work 1 dc in every st the entire round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 12 dc evenly (inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same st). Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 dc in ch-space below
symbols = 1 dc in st below
symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sc
symbols = shows round before diagram beg and how to place the sts according to round below
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 147-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (109)

country flag Stinje wrote:

Guten Tag! Ich würde statt des vorgeschlagenen Garns "Paris" gerne "Bomull-Lin" verwenden. Wäre dieses für die Herstellung des Teppichs ebenso geeignet und auch robust genug? Der Teppich ist für das Badezimmer gedacht. Viele Grüße, Stinje

03.07.2023 - 15:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Stinje, beide Garne könnten hier benutzt werden, am besten benutzen Sie den Garnumrechner, um die neue Garnmenge kalkulieren zu lassen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

03.07.2023 - 16:01

country flag Kaja wrote:

Sorry, not 6- this was fine 😊 I ment 7-th row. The beginning of it doesn't quite match the rest of the 7-th row. I'm already finishing the carpet, but just to be clear.

06.05.2022 - 17:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kaja, the previous row has a fan pattern. In row 7, you form chain spaces between the center of one fan and the center of the next fan. There are 12 tr-groups from the previous row and 12 chain spaces in the 7th row. There are also 12 dc in the 4th tr in each tr-group. In total, you obtain 12 stitches (not counting the sl stitch and the 1 ch). We don't have any graphs of this row or any other that don't have their own graph already. Happy crochetting!

08.05.2022 - 19:10

country flag Kaja wrote:

I don't really get the 6-th row. Can't you just draw it?

05.05.2022 - 15:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kaja, the 6th row is explained both in the text and drawn in A.1, it's the one marked with a 6 on the left. You work 7 tr in the chain space of the previous round, skip the chain stitch and 1 dc in the tr from the previous round. Repeat this the whole round. Happy crocheting!

05.05.2022 - 21:58

country flag Jana Münzner wrote:

Habe eine Frage zur Größe der Häkelnadel. Nr. 8 ist hier angegeben. Ist damit der Durchmesser in mm gemeint oder die 8 bzw. H mit dem Durchmesser 5.5mm?

31.10.2021 - 21:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Münzner, es handelt sich um eine Häkelnadel 8 mm - die finden Sie hier. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

03.11.2021 - 07:33

country flag Nina wrote:

Was ist mit 3 Fäden gemeint? Häkelt man mit drei knäulen parallel?

23.03.2021 - 21:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Nina, es wird also mit 1 Faden von je 3 Knäuel zusammen gehäkelt, als nur 1 wäre. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

24.03.2021 - 07:50

country flag Lena wrote:

Hej, Är "ca 83 cm i diameter" måttet för den större eller den mindre mattan?

17.05.2020 - 09:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Jag tolkar det som att det är måttet för den mindre mattan. Mvh DROPS Design

18.05.2020 - 10:47

country flag Claudia wrote:

Hallo, ich komme in Runde 8 Muster A 1 nicht weiter. Verstehe nicht was mit den Lm aus Runde 7 wird.

09.04.2020 - 19:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Claudia, am Ende der 7. Runde haben Sie 12 Luftmaschenbogen mit je 7 Lm + 1 fM x 11 (= 8 Maschen x 12 = 96 Maschen). Bei der 8. Runde häkeln Sie: 3 Lm (= 1. Stb), *1 Lm, überspringen Sie 1 Lm, 1 Stb in das nächste Lm*, von *bis* bis zur Ende der Runde wiederholen = es sind jetzt 48 Stb mit je 1 Lm inzwischen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

14.04.2020 - 09:03

country flag Kelly wrote:

Mij is even iets niet duidelijk. Als ik t kleed groter wil hebben moet ik na toer 18 gaan meerderen Tot de gewenste grootte, dat begrijp ik nog. Dan staat er dat ik volgens A2 moet haken en tussen haakjes staat er dan =2 toeren. Dat begrijp ik even niet. En hoe daarna verder. Kunt u mij misschien meer duidelijkheid geven hoe ik verder moet nadat ik de gewenste grootte heb bereikt. Dus vanaf dat er staat haak dan volgens A2. Heel graag hoor ik van u. Dankjewell. Mvg, Kelly

25.10.2019 - 00:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Kelly,

A.2 bestaat uit 2 toeren. (Waar 14 bij staat is de eerste toer en waar 15 bij staat is de tweede toer). De toer waar de pijl bij staat in in A.2 hoort niet bij het patroon, maar deze staat erbij zodat je kunt zien hoe je de steken in de voorgaande toer met stokjes haakt.

Als je klaar bent met A.2 haak je verder volgens patroon (toer 1 tot en met 3 volgens de beschrijving onderaan.

30.10.2019 - 11:40

country flag Christelle Van Der Merwe wrote:

Good evening, I am busy with row 10 now, but it's all wobbly. Don't know what I did wrong? Think I followed the pattern to the T. Please help!

06.08.2019 - 21:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Van Der Merwe, it's a bit tricky to answer you there, do you get the correct tension? Do you have the correct number of stitches? A good idea would be to bring your work to your store (or send them a picture per mail) so that they can see and assist you. Happy crocheting!

07.08.2019 - 12:52

country flag Helga Dann wrote:

Verstehe ich das richtig.....muss man zum Häkeln 3 Fäden verwenden? Also gleichzeitig von 3 Knäul Wolle arbeiten? Wenn ja, dann passt aber die gerade Wollmenge nicht, denn dann sind am Ende nur noch 2 Knäul da Vielen Dank für die Rückmeldung

28.06.2019 - 11:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Dann, Garnmenge stimmt, so lange Ihre Maschenprobe stimmt - am Ende können Sie den letzten Knäuel in 2 Teile oder in 3 Teile teilen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

28.06.2019 - 15:38

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© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.