DROPS / 146 / 34

Dune hat by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS hat with fan pattern in ”Muskat”.

DROPS design: Pattern no r-634
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M - L/XL
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm / 21¼"/22" - 22¾"/23½"

Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
150-200 g color no 61, light beige

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 dc x 9 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc on beg of a round with dc with 3 ch. Finish every round with dc with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (= in first dc).
Replace first sc on beg of round with sc with 1 ch. Finish every sc round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 dc or 1 sc by working 2 dc/sc in same st.
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HAT:
Ch 5 on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with 1 strand Muskat and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 1: Work 10 (10) dc in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 dc in every dc = 20 (20) dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 30 (30) dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 40 (40) dc.
ROUND 5-8 (5-9): Continue inc the same way, i.e. inc 10 dc on every round, inc the same place as on previous round, i.e. 1 dc more between every inc on every round. Inc as before by working 2 dc in 1 dc = 80 (90) dc.
ROUND 9 (10): Work 1 dc in every dc while AT THE SAME TIME inc 6 (4) dc evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 86-94 dc.
ROUND 10-11 (11-12): Work 1 dc in every dc = 86 (94) dc.
ROUND 12 (13): Work 1 sc in every dc = 86 (94) sc.
ROUND 13 (14): Work 1 sc in every sc while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4 (6) sc evenly = 90 (100) sc.

BRIM:
Now work fan pattern with 2 strands Muskat as follows (also see diagram A.1).
ROUND 1: 1 sc in first st, ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc, * skip 3 sts, in next sc work 3 dc + ch 1 + 3 dc, skip 3 sc **, 1 sc in next sc, ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc*, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition on round after **, then work 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 2: 1 sl st in first ch, ch 5 (= 1 dc + 2 ch), 1 dc in same ch, * ch 3, 1 sc in ch in the middle of dc-group, ch 3 **, in ch between 2 sc work 1 dc + ch 2 + 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 3: 1 sl st in ch-space between 2 dc, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 2 dc in same ch-space, ch 1, 3 dc in same ch-space, * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 1 **, in next ch-space (between the 2 dc) work 3 dc + ch 1 + 3 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 4: Work sl sts until ch in the middle of dc-group, 1 sc in ch in the middle of dc-group, * ch 3, in ch between 2 sc work 1 dc + ch 2 + 1 dc, ch 3 **, 1 sc in ch in the middle of dc-group *, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in sc from beg of round.
ROUND 5: 1 sl st in first ch-space, ch 2, * in next ch-space (the 2 ch between 2 dc) work 4 dc + ch 1 + 4 dc, ch 2, 1 sc in next ch-space, 1 ch **, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 2, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in sl st from beg of round.
ROUND 6: Work sl sts until ch in the middle of dc-group, 1 sc in ch in the middle of dc-group, * ch 4, in ch between 2 sc work 1 dc + ch 2 + 1 dc, ch 4 **, 1 sc in ch in the middle of dc-group *, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in sc from beg of round.
ROUND 7: 1 sc in first ch-space, ch 3, * in next ch-space (the 2 ch between 2 dc) work 5 dc + ch 1 + 5 dc, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-space, 1 ch **, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 3, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in sc from beg of round.
ROUND 8: Work sl sts until ch in the middle of dc-group, 1 sc in ch in the middle of dc-group, * ch 5, in ch between 2 sc work 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc, ch 5 **, 1 sc in ch in the middle of dc-group *, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in sc from beg of round.
ROUND 9: 1 sl st in first ch-space, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 4 dc in same ch-space, * 2 dc in next ch-space (ch-space between 2 dc), 5 dc in next ch-space (= 1 dc-group with 5 dc) **, 5 dc in next ch-space (= 1 dc-group with 5 dc) *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 10: Work sl sts until third dc in dc-group with 5 dc, 1 sc in this dc, * skip until the 2 dc standing alone, between these 2 dc work 4 dc + ch 2 + 4 dc, skip until third dc in first dc-group with 5 dc, 1 sc in this dc, between the 2 dc-groups with 5 dc work 4 dc + ch 2 + 4 dc **, skip until third dc in dc-group with 5 dc, 1 sc in this dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in sc from beg of round. Fasten off.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 ch
= 1 sc
= 1 dc

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 146-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (74)

Marianne Poulsen 04.08.2019 - 22:52:

Forstår ikke helt starten på 8. OMG. på skyggen.Virker forkert, da det vil sammentrække lm-rækkerne på se 2 forgangne omgange. Måske kan starten af hver omgang vises i video?

DROPS Design 09.08.2019 kl. 13:18:

Hej Marianne, Det bør ikke trække lm-rækkerne sammen om du starter med kædemasker og hækler 1 fm midt i stangmaskegruppen... Men sørg for at luftmaskerne imellem fm og st er løse nok. 8.OMG: Hækl km til lm midt i st-gruppen, 1 fm om lm midt i st-gruppen, * 5 lm, om lm mellem 2 fm hækles der 1 st + 2 lm + 1 st, 5 lm **, 1 fm om lm midt i st-gruppen *, gentag fra *-*, men sidste gentagelse afsluttes efter **, derefter hækles der 1 km i fm i beg af omg.

Faith 07.07.2019 - 05:44:

Hi there, thanks for the beautiful pattern for the sunhat. I don't understand round 9(10) and round 13 increase tip. Can you pls help to explain? Thank u very much.

DROPS Design 07.07.2019 kl. 21:43:

Dear Faith, increasing/ decreasing evenly, means ypu have to distribute the stitches so there will be approximately the same distance between them. In this lesson you will find an explanation about how to calculate this. Happy Crafting!

Marina 02.06.2019 - 03:24:

I am very impressed with the designs and the yarn. I am accustomed to the European yarns through my family in Europe, and was very excited with the selection you carry for the different projects. I am just about finished the summer hat, and very excited to wear and show it off. Thank you for providing me the joy in creating such great projects

Alexandra 24.04.2019 - 16:52:

Dobrý den, mám 2 otázky: 1) tu dekorativní část mám opravdu háčkovat ze dvou vláken? Jaké to bude z jednoho vlákna? A 2) chci to háčkovat pro tříletou neteř, kde mám nejlépe ubrat na hloubce? Děkuji!

DROPS Design 24.04.2019 kl. 21:26:

Dobrý den, Alexandro! Ad 1) ano, opravdu háčkujeme krempu dvojitou přízí - vzor pak bude pevnější a bude lépe držet. Ad 2) nejjednodušší řešení je použít slabší přízi i háček (např. DROPS Safran a háček č.2,5 nebo 3) - i bez toho, že byste musela měnit vzor a počty, bude klobouček proporčně menší. Jinak je možné např. vynechat 7. a 8. řadu vzoru na krempě. Příjemné tvoření! Hana

Saskia 24.07.2018 - 07:59:

Prosím Vás čo znamená *? Ďakujem

DROPS Design 24.07.2018 kl. 15:59:

Milá Saskie, tento symbol (*) označuje úsek vzoru, tzv. sekvenci, kterou budeme stále opakovat - buď až do konce dané řady, nebo tolikrát, kolíkrát je psáno v návodu (např. *-* opakujeme celkem 5x - tento zápis znamená, že postup uvedený mezi hvězdičkami uháčkujeme/upleteme 5x). Příjemné tvoření! Hana

Gitte 08.06.2018 - 22:08:

Jeg forstår heller ikke helt 2.omgang i “skyggen”. Kan den ikke vises i en video?

Consuelo 26.05.2018 - 05:57:

Beautiful design, I do not live in USA and I can´t find this yarn in Amazon. Could I use the Lion brand 24/7 cotton yarn for this project, that is a #4 yarn

DROPS Design 28.05.2018 kl. 08:32:

Dear Mrs Consuelo, We are able to provide free patterns thanks to our yarns sold throughout the world. You will therefore understand that we can only recomand you to contact your DROPS Store for any further help & assistance. Thank you for your comprehension.

Marion 24.05.2018 - 08:39:

Beklager, jeg som forklarer dårlig. Jeg er kommet til omg 2 på bremmen. I om 2 står det lag 1 kjm om første lm. Hvilken lm er dette? På toppen av første vifte? Første maske?

DROPS Design 24.05.2018 kl. 10:11:

Hei Marion. Det er den samme lm som du hekler den første staven i, altså den første lm etter første fm på forrige omgang. Du hekler slik: 1 kjm om første lm fra forrige omgang, 5 lm, 1 st i den samme luftmasken som kjm. God fornøyelse videre

Marion 23.05.2018 - 21:53:

Tusen takk for svar. Det som forvirrer meg mest er faktisk hvor jeg skal starte.. 1 kjm om første lm - hvilken LM?

DROPS Design 24.05.2018 kl. 08:13:

Hei Marion, De 5 lm som du hekler til å begynne med skal settes i en ring ved å hekle en kjm i den første lm heklet (lengst fra nålen). Dette blir toppen av hatten og du fortsetter med å hekle rundt den ringen og deretter nedover hatten. Håper dette hjelper og god fornøyelse!

Marion 17.05.2018 - 22:29:

Skjønner ikke denne OMG og det blir bare feil...kan noen forklare eller gi noen tips? 2.OMG: 1 kjm om første lm, 5 lm (= 1 st + 2 lm), 1 st om samme lm, * 3 lm, 1 fm om lm midt i st-gruppen, 3 lm **, om lm mellom 2 fm hekles det 1 st + 2 lm + 1 st *, gjenta fra *-* omg rundt, men siste repetisjon avsluttes etter **, deretter hekles det 1 kjm i 3.lm på beg av omg.

DROPS Design 23.05.2018 kl. 14:40:

Hei Marion. Jeg går ut i fra at det som forvirrer deg er 5 lm (= 1 st + 2 lm)? I hver luftmaskebue som sitter mellom 2 fastmasker fra forrige runde skal det hekles 2 staver slik: 1 st, 2lm,1st. Men i den aller første luftemaskebuen, på begynnelsen av omgangen, hekler du isteden 5lm (isteden for 1st, 2lm) og så 1st før du fortsetter mønster etter diagram. Du fortsetter mønster etter diagram ut runden, men den siste gangen avslutter du etter * 3 lm, 1 fm om lm midt i st-gruppen, 3 lm**, før du hekler en kjm i den 3 lm du lagde på starten av omgangen. God fornøyelse.

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