DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Christmas Calendar
DROPS 146-3
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-034
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
250-250-250-300-350-350 g color no 1760, light gray purple

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 32 rows with lace pattern = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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SHRUG:
Work 2 parts that are sewn tog mid back. Then knit up an edge in rib around the opening of the shrug.

RIGHT SIDE:
Cast on 110-110-110-119-119-119 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Alpaca Silk - work back and forth on needle.
P 1 row from WS.
Then work rib (= K 1/P 2) with 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above, in each side.
When rib measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec on next row from RS all 2 P sts into 1 P st by P2 tog = 74-74-74-80-80-80 sts. Switch to needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 24-24-22-26-23-23 sts evenly = 50-50-52-54-57-57 sts. Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 2-2-3-4-0-0 sts in stockinette st, work pattern according to diagram A.1 until 3-3-4-5-1-1 st remains, finish with 2-2-3-4-0-0 sts in stockinette st and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 7-8-8-9-9-11 cm / 2 3/4"-3"-3"-3½"-3½"-4½", inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 9th-7th-7th-6th-6th-5th row 12-14-15-16-16-18 more times = 76-80-84-88-91-95 sts – NOTE: Work the inc sts gradually in pattern, the sts that do not fit are worked in stockinette st.
When piece measures 43 cm / 17" for all sizes, insert 1 marker in each side - now measure piece from here.
Now bind off in one side of piece (= towards front edge) while AT THE SAME TIME casting on new sts in the other side of piece (= towards back piece) as follows:

FRONT PIECE:
Bind off on every other row (i.e. at beg of every row from RS): 4 sts 3 times, 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 4-4-5-6-7-8 times and 1 st 6-8-8-9-7-7 times, then bind off every 4th row (i.e. at beg of every other row from RS): 1 st 6-6-6-5-7-7 times.

TOWARDS BACK PIECE:
Cast on new sts on every other row (i.e. at the end of every row from RS): 2 sts 4-5-6-6-7-7 times and 1 st 8-8-8-10-11-13 times, then every 4th row (i.e. at the end of every other row from RS): 1 st 2 times.

After all bind offs and cast ons, there are 56-60-64-68-72-76 sts on needle.
When piece measures 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm / 7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8 ¾''-9'', slip 9 sts 5 times in total on a stitch holder from bottom of back piece and up towards the neck on every other row (i.e. at beg of every row from WS - work sts before slipping them on stitch holder) = 11-15-19-23-27-31 sts remain on needle.
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and slip all sts from stitch holder back on needle while at the same time working the row from RS = 56-60-64-68-72-76 sts.
P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc 12-12-12-14-14-16 sts evenly = 68-72-76-82-86-92 sts.
Work 2 ridges in garter st over all sts and bind off.
The shrug has now been worked to the middle of back, i.e. halfway.

LEFT SIDE:
Cast on and work as right side but reversed. I.e. when casting/binding off on front piece, bind off at beg of row from WS (instead of RS). Cast on new sts towards back piece at the end of row from WS (instead of RS) and slip sts on a stitch holder on back piece at beg of every row from RS (instead of WS).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the 2 parts tog mid back.
Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st up to markers.
Knit up along the opening on the shrug - i.e. up along right front piece, back of neck, down along left front piece and then along back piece as follows:
Pick up from RS approx. 250 to 330 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work in the round on needle as follows: P 1 round, then K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 279-288-297-315-333-351 sts.
Then work rib = K 1/P 2.
When rib measures 2 cm / 3/4'', inc every third P-section to 3 P sts = 310-320-330-350-370-390 sts.
Repeat inc when edge measures 6 and 9 cm / 3½'', but displace inc so that next P-section is inc to 3 P sts = 372-384-396-420-444-468 sts. After last round with inc, the rib should be K 1/P 3 the entire round. Now loosely bind off with K over K and P over P. NOTE: To avoid a tight bind off edge, 1 YO after approx. every 8th or 12th st can be made, bind off YO as a st

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 20.03.2014
under ASSEMBLY:
Sew the 2 parts tog mid back.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (68)

country flag Chet Woods wrote:

I can't find a size chart for this pattern (146-3). Something to equate a S M or L to something measurable?

30.12.2020 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Chat Woods! Please look at the measurements drawing at the end of the pattern. Helpful video "How to read a schematic drawing" here: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=24&cid=17

31.12.2020 - 01:37

country flag Combes wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis en train de faire le col. Combien de cm dois je tricoter après les augmentations à 9 cm ? Combien de cm d'épaisseur en tout le col doit il faire à la fin ? Merci

28.06.2020 - 20:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Combes, après la dernière augmentation, vous tricotez encore 1 tour en côtes 1 maille endroit/3 mailles envers et rabattez au tour suivant. Bon tricot!

29.06.2020 - 08:41

country flag Elvira wrote:

Hallo ich brauche Hilfe, ich fertige gerade Ärmel für Bolero an und komme bei weitem nicht nach 13 Zunahmen auf 43 cm . Warum LG Elvira

09.05.2020 - 21:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Elvira, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe in der Höhe? Wenn nur noch einpaaar cm fehlt, stricken Sie einfach weiter wie zuvor über alle Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.05.2020 - 09:38

country flag Combes wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse. Je suis à 43 cm de hauteur totale mais je n'ai pas encore atteint mon épaule, je n'ai pas finis les augmentations, j'en suis à 8 sur 15. Est ce que c'est normal ? Si je dois rabattre je ne peux plus faire les augmentations sur le devant mais uniquement derrière c'est ça ?

26.04.2020 - 00:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Combes, vous devez augmenter 15 fois tous les 7 rangs (= soit environ tous les 2 cm environ), à 43 cm vos augmentations doivent être terminées. Vérifiez bien votre tension en hauteur (sur la base de 32 rangs = 10 cm). Bon tricot!

27.04.2020 - 08:52

country flag Combes wrote:

Je ne suis pas sur de bien comprendre. D'après le schéma on commence par l'extrémité de la manche avec des côtes mais il faut monter 110 mailles pour une taille M ce qui représente 55 cm. C'est beaucoup trop pour une manche alors je dois me tromper quelque part. Avec les aiguilles de 2,5 combien de cm représente 110 mailles ? Merci

09.04.2020 - 19:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Combes, les 110 m tricotées en côtes seront moins large car il faut plus de mailles en côtes qu'en jersey pour la même largeur, les côtes du bas des manches sont un peu évasées (cf 2ème photo par ex). Après les côtes, on va diminuer en 2 temps et on continuera la manche sur 50 mailles seulement. Vérifiez bien votre échantillon jersey, si vous avez bien 20 m x 32 rangs avec les aiguilles les plus grosses, votre tension devrait être bonne avec des aiguilles d'1/2 numéro plus fines. Bon tricot!

14.04.2020 - 09:05

country flag Emily Rasely wrote:

Hi, I'm excited to knit this, but I can't figure out the sizing? I understand that the diagram numbers are written in cm, but I'm not clear on what parts of the garment the various numbers measure. Thanks for your help!

27.03.2020 - 21:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Rasely, the chart shows the half of piece, ie from bottom of sleeve to mid back/front (= 65 to 70 cm, depending on the size). Measure a similar garment you have and like the size to find the matchign size. Read more here about sizing. Happy knitting!

30.03.2020 - 08:53

country flag Anja wrote:

Hei Lurer på hvordan man beregner størrelsen på denne? Mvh Anja

15.11.2019 - 18:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anja, Nederst i opskriften finder du måleskitsen fra midten af ryggen og ud over ærmet, med alle aktuelle mål. God fornøjelse!

19.11.2019 - 13:34

country flag Sanni Taalikka wrote:

Miksi hiha neulotaan kaikissa koissa yhtä pitkäksi? Neuloin boleron itselleni ja haastavien kavennusten ja hihojen yhteenompelun jälkeen totesin, että boleron hihat ovat minulle aivan liian lyhyet! Ne ovat vain 3/4 hihat nyt, ja joudun purkamaan suurimman osan työstä jos haluan ne pidemmiksi. Malli näyttää erilaiselta pitkä- ja lyhytkätisille. :(

26.04.2017 - 15:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hei! Ennen neulomisen aloittamista on aina hyvä tarkistaa neuleen valmiit mitat mittapiirroksesta ja verrata omiin mittoihin. Olethan tarkistanut, että neuletiheytesi täsmää? Tässä mallissa esim. hihojen joustinneuletta voisi pidentää.

04.05.2017 - 16:44

country flag Barbara wrote:

Hallo liebes Garnstudio-Team! Ich würde dieses zauberhafte Modell gerne mit DROPS Alpaca doppelfädig stricken, da so das Muster besser zur Geltung kommt. Könnt ihr mir sagen, wieviel Mehrverbrauch an Wolle ich dadurch etwa haben werde? (Größe M) Herzlichen Dank

27.01.2016 - 10:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bei diesem Modell können Sie den Faden nicht einfach doppelt nehmen, dann wird die Maschenprobe nicht mehr passen und außerdem würde das Strickbild dann sehr fest. Baby Alpaca Silk und Alpaca gehören in dieselbe Garngruppe, Sie können also Alpaca statt Baby Alpaca Silk verwenden, aber dann auch nur einfädig. Beide Garne haben die gleiche Lauflänge, daher können Sie einfach die gleiche Menge Garn nehmen.

02.02.2016 - 12:48

country flag Marina wrote:

In der Anleitung steht bei der Zunahme Muster anpassen. Wie mache ich dies am besten? Danke für die Hilfe.

05.10.2015 - 09:11

DROPS Design answered:

Sie stricken die zugenommenen M so weit es geht folgerichtig im Muster, aber die M, die nicht im Muster aufgehen, stricken Sie glatt rechts. Sobald dann genug M für das Muster vorhanden sind, stricken Sie diese wieder im Muster.

07.10.2015 - 10:31