DROPS design: Pattern no w-466
Yarn group C
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Full Length: 57-65-73 cm / 22½”-25½”-28¾”

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
Colour no 29, light ice blue: 500-550-650 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) SIZE 6 mm /US 10 - or size needed to get 14 sts x 23 rows in pattern A.1 = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST:
Back and forth on needle: K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3, diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done in pattern A.1 on every row worked from RS (not on rows with holes), i.e. 4 rows with dec on every repetition of A.1 (= 12 rows). Dec 1 st by K 2 sts tog.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 35-37-39 sts with Paris on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10.
Work 6 rows in GARTER ST - read explanation above - AT THE SAME TIME cast on 2 new sts at the end of every row = 47-49-51 sts (12 new sts).
Then work as follows: K the 2 new sts, then A.1A 1 time, repeat A.1B until 3 sts remain, finish with A.1C and cast on 2 new sts at the end of row. Continue with A.1 and cast on 2 new sts at the end of every row. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
All sizes: Work A.1 2-3-3 times vertically in total (= 24-36-36 rows A.1, 30-42-42 rows worked in total).
SIZE S/M and XXL/XXXL: Then work 1st-8th row in A.1 while at the same time casting on 2 new sts at the end of every row.
Size: L/XL: Then work 1st-2nd row in A.1 while at the same time casting on 2 new sts at the end of every row.
All sizes: = 111-125-139 sts on row (38-44-50 rows worked in total).
Piece measures approx. 17-19-22 cm / 6¾”-7½”-8¾”.
On next row from RS work A.2 as follows: 6 sts in garter st, work A.2A 1 time, repeat A.2B 5-6-7 times, then A.2C 1 time, finish with 6 sts in garter st.
Continue with A.2 and 6 sts in garter st in each side. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically (piece measures approx. 33-35-38 cm / 13”-13¾”-15”), work 1 ridge over all sts (= 2 rows K).
Then work A.1 with 1 edge st in garter st in each side (beg with 1st row in A.1) - AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-3-3 sts evenly on every K row from RS - READ DECREASE TIP - 7-9-11 times in total.
On next row from RS, dec 2-5-1 sts evenly = 81-93-105 sts on row, K 1 row from WS (24-30-36 rows A.1 in total after A.2).
Piece measures approx. 43-48-53 cm / 17”-19”-21”.
Continue with A.3 as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, work A.3 a total of 13-15-17 times in width, finish with 1st st in A.3 and 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue with A.3 and 1 edge st in each side.
When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically (piece measures approx. 47-52-57 cm / 18½”-20½”-22½”), work 1 ridge over all sts (= 2 rows K).
Then work A.1 with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until finished measurements (beg with 1st row in A.1) - AT THE SAME TIME dec 5 sts evenly on every K row from RS 7-9-12 times in total.
On next row from RS, dec 7-7-0 sts evenly = 39-41-45 sts on row, K 1 row from WS (24-30-36 rows A.1 in total after A.3).
Piece measures approx. 57-65-73 cm / 22½”-25½”-28¾”.
Loosely bind off all sts.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as back piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the side seams inside 1 edge st.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 07.05.2014
New yarn amount:
Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
Colour no 29, light ice blue: 500-550-650 g

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K on RS, P on WS
symbols = K on WS
symbols = 1 yo between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso.
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
diagram
diagram
signature-image

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 145-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (196)

country flag Al Dvn wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas les diminutions après A2. Je tricote 1 côte mousse sans diminuer, puis je diminue à partir de A1? Dans les 2x A1, je tricote 7x 4 dim, et sur le dernier rang endroit de A1 je tricote 2 dim ?

14.05.2021 - 18:20:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Al Dvn, les diminutions de A.1 se font dans les rangs tricotés sur l'endroit = 4 rangs de diminutions (= 4 m) à chaque motif de A.1 en hauteur (= 12 rangs). Vous tricotez A.1 en le répétant en hauteur et en diminuant 7 fois: 1 fois A.1 en hauteur (4 rangs en diminuant 4 m à chaque fois.) + 10 rangs de A.1 (3 rangs en diminuant 4 m à chaque fois) + vous tricotez le 11ème rang de A.1 et diminuez 2 mailles = 111 - 16-12-2=81 m. Bon tricot!

17.05.2021 kl. 08:36:

country flag Siv Hellberg wrote:

Jag måste be om Ursäkt för mitt inlägg. Efter många försök och frustration borde jag inte skriva utan vänta tills jag lugnat ner mig. Ber så hemskt mycket om ursäkt.

01.05.2021 - 13:12:

country flag Siv Hellberg wrote:

Mönstret är helt felskrivet..enl bild är det mönsterdel A1 sen A3 sen A1 sen A2 sen A1 som avslutning. Mönstret börjar med A1 men går sedan till A2 sedan till A3 och sluta med A1.. Finns inte ett rätt med mönstret och känner mig så lurad efter att ha köpt garn för att inte kunna sticka .

29.04.2021 - 20:16:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Siv. Mönstret stickas nedifrån och upp, så det ska vara riktigt. Mvh DROPS Design

30.04.2021 kl. 08:11:

country flag Czirók Györgyi wrote:

Sajnos,a magyar fordításban több hiba is van,a német változat nélkül nem is tudnám folytatni a munkát...

14.03.2021 - 17:54:

DROPS Design answered:

Kedves Györgyi! Igyekszem a fordításokat pontosan elkészíteni, de ember vagyok, és rengeteg mintát kell feldolgozni, rövid idő alatt, így időnként a legnagyobb igyekezet ellenére is hiba maradhat a szövegben. Ha hibát talál, megköszönjük, ha jelzi a Magyar DROPS csoport nevű Facebook csoportban, ahol közvetlen segítséget is kaphat. További sikeres kézimunkázást!

23.03.2021 kl. 00:12:

country flag Margret wrote:

Danke für die schnelle Antwort. Ich war der Meinung, dass die Arbeit von oben nach unten gestrickt wird. Jetzt ist alles klar.

03.03.2021 - 17:56:

country flag Margret wrote:

Hallo, Ich hab eben mit der Arbeit begonnen und stelle fest, dass die Anleitung einen Fehler enthält. Lt. Foto müsste A 3 oben zwischen den Rapporten von A1 eingearbeitet werden. So sieht es auch auf der Zeichnung aus. Lt. Ihrer Anleitung ist A 3 aber unter A 2 bei den Abnahmen. Wann also stricke ich A3 ein? es auch

03.03.2021 - 13:21:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Margret, Arbeit wird von unten nach oben gestrickt, und A.3 wird erst nach (insgesamt 24-30-36 R im Muster A.1 nach A.2)ca 43-48-53 cm und einmal in der Höhe gestrickt. Oder vielleicht misverstehe ich Ihre Frage? Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.03.2021 kl. 15:14:

country flag Florence wrote:

Je souhaiterais faire ce poncho mais je ne comprends pas vos explications. En faite en début de rang après avoir tricoté les 6 rangs au point mousse vous avez ecrit de faire le diagramme A1 ok. Après il faut faire pour la taille S tricoter A1 en hauteur soit 24 rangs soit un total de 30 rangs c'est à dire 24 + les 6 rangs ok. Est ce que le 1er rang du diagramme A1 est compté avec les 2 fois de A1 ce n'est pas cohérent ?

13.01.2021 - 00:31:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Florence, vous tricotez d'abord 6 rangs point mousse + 2 fois les 12 rangs de A.1, autrement dit, quand vous avez terminé A.1, vous avez tricoté un total de 30 rangs (= les 6 du début + les 2 x 12 rangs de A.1). Tricotez maintenant les 8 premiers rangs de A.1 et tricoter ensuite A.2. Le 1er rang du diagramme se tricote sur l'endroit (lisez de bas en haut et de droite à gauche sur l'endroit, de gauche à droite sur l'envers). Bon tricot!

13.01.2021 kl. 07:24:

country flag PATRICIA wrote:

Merci. Là je comprends mieux !

07.01.2021 - 17:47:

country flag Patricia wrote:

Bonjour, Suite à votre réponse du 07.01.2021 à 10:36 vous me dites de diminuer 9 fois 3 mailles soit 27 au total là je suis d'accord et dans votre réponse du 04.01.2021 à 15:49 vous me dîtes diminuez au rang 3, 5, 9et 11 = 12 mailles. Il faudrait revoir vos réponses !

07.01.2021 - 15:41:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Patricia, la fois précédente, tous les calculs ont été faits par erreur pour la plus grande taille, désolée - en L/XL vous tricotez 30 rangs de A.1 et diminuez aux rangs 3, 5, 9 et 11 (= 4 fois 3 diminutions x 2 fois les diagrammes en hauteur = 24 diminutions, 3 diminutions au rang 3 du 3ème motif en hauteur + 5 diminutions au rang 5 du 3ème motif en hauteur + 1 rang sur l'envers 30 rangs de A.1 et vous avez bien diminué 27 + 5m = il reste 93 m. Bon tricot!

07.01.2021 kl. 16:14:

country flag Patricia wrote:

Bonjour. Merci pour les explications. J'ai compris par contre j'ai 125 mailles si je fais 39 diminutions je n'obtiens pas 93 à la fin comme c'est écrit sur le modèle. Je dois faire 27 diminutions + 5 diminutions à la fin ce qui me donne 32 dimunitions et non pas 39

07.01.2021 - 06:29:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Patricia, vous avez 125 m et diminuez effectivement 9 fois 3 mailles soit 27 mailles au total = 125-27=98 m. Vous diminuez ensuite 5 mailles = il reste 93 mailles. Bon tricot!

07.01.2021 kl. 10:36:

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