DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 141-43
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-102
Yarn group C
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SHAWL:
Measurements:
Width at the top: approx. 160 cm / 63"
Length mid back: approx. 80 cm / 31½"

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
600 g color no 6314, denim blue

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32") SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 - or size needed to get 16 sts x 30 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32") SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – for rib.

HAT:
Size: S - M/L
To fit head circumference: 54/55 - 56/58 cm / 54/55 - 56/58 cm / 21"/21½" - 22"/22¾".
Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
150 g for both sizes in color no 6314, denim blue

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7 - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24") size 4 mm / US 6 – or size needed to get 18 sts x 36 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K sts on all rows. 2 K rows = 1 ridge.

PATTERN:
See diagram A-1. Diagram shows 1 repetition of pattern in width and vertically, the diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Cast on 7 sts on circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 with Nepal. Insert 1 marker in the 4th st (mid st - marks mid back of shawl).
Work 1 row as follows (= RS): K 3, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 3 = 9 sts.
Then K every row while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4 sts on every row from RS as follows: Make 1 YO inside 3 sts in garter st in each side and make a YO on each side of st with marker.
On next row K YO to make holes.
When piece measures approx. 60 cm / 23½" in the middle (adjust so that next row is worked from RS and measure when holding the piece up), work as follows:
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and K 1 row while at the same time inc evenly to 331 sts.
K 1 row from WS, then work as follows: 3 sts in garter st, 1 YO, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain before mid st, K 2, 1 YO, K the mid st, 1 YO, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 5 sts remain, K 2, 1 YO and 3 sts in garter st.
Continue like this with rib and inc, work inc sts in rib.
When piece measures 67 cm / 26½", inc 1 st in every P-section (seen from RS), continue with K 2/P 3.
When piece measures 74 cm / 29", inc 1 st in every K-section (seen from RS), continue with K 3/P 3.
When piece measures 80 cm / 31½" in the middle, bind off with K over K and P over P.
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HAT:
First work the cable back and forth sideways.
Then pick up sts along one side of cable and work crown of hat. Then pick up sts along the other side of cable and work brim of hat. Finally sew the hat tog mid back.

CABLE EDGE:
Worked back and forth on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7.
Cast on 22 sts with Nepal. K 1 row from WS.
Work next row as follows: 2 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, * P 2, K 2 in each of the next 2 sts (= K 4), P 2 *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, finish with 2 sts in garter st = 28 sts.
Work 1 row from WS with K over K and P over P with 2 sts in garter st in each side.
Continue with A-1 until 7-8 repetitions have been worked (piece measures approx. 49-55 cm / 19¼"-21½""). Work next row as follows: 2 sts in garter st, * P 2, K 2 tog, K 2 tog, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, finish with 2 sts in garter st = 22 sts.
K 1 row from WS over all sts, then bind off.
Edge is approx. 12 cm / 4¾" wide.

CROWN OF HAT:
Worked back and forth on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6.
Pick up 1 st in every ridge in front loop of outermost st along one side of cable edge. K 1 row from WS while at the same time inc evenly to 90-100 sts (inc by working 2 sts in 1 st).
Insert 1 marker at beg of row (from RS) and then 1 marker for every 10th st (= 9-10 markers in total). Work in GARTER ST back and forth - see explanation above.
AT THE SAME TIME on 4th row from when sts where knit up (= row from RS), dec 1 st after every marker by K 2 tog. Repeat dec every 4 rows 3 more times and then every other row 5 times = 9-10 sts remain on needle.
Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts and tighten tog.

BRIM OF HAT:
Worked back and forth on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6.
Pick up 1 st in every ridge along the other side of cable edge.
K 1 row from WS while at the same time inc evenly to 90-100 sts.
Insert 1 marker at beg of row (from RS) and then 1 marker for every 10th st (= 9-10 markers in total).
Work in GARTER ST back and forth - see explanation above.
AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row from when sts where picked up (= row from RS), inc 1 st after every marker by making 1 YO. On next row K YOs twisted to avoid holes.
Repeat inc every other row 2 more times and then every 4 rows 2 times = 135-150 sts.
Work in garter st without inc until brim measures 7½-8 cm / 2¾"-3", bind off from RS (NOTE: Do not bind off too loosely).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew hat tog mid back outermost sts to avoid a chunky seam.

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Hat - see pattern 141-42
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Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 2, K 2 from cable needle
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (33)

country flag Savalle wrote:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas très bien arrivé à 67 cm on doit faire une augmentation dans la côte maille envers. Ce qui fait 2 mailles endroits et donc 3 mailles envers mais comme on tricote en maille 2 et 2 il me semble que pour le modèle ça doit faire un décalage dans le dessin ? Est on obligé de faire ces 3 mailles Merci pour votre réponse

31.07.2023 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Savalle, après les augmentations des mailles envers à 67 cm, on continue en côtes 2 mailles endroit/3 mailles envers (plus en côtes 2/2); puis, à 74 cm vous augmenterez les mailles endroit pour continuer en côtes 3 mailes endroit/3 mailles envers. Bon tricot!

01.08.2023 - 08:58

country flag Anne-Marie wrote:

Stickar man efter diagram A1 även från baksidan , och i så fall börjar sticka från vänster på avigsidan?

24.09.2022 - 20:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne-Marie Når du strikker frem og tilbake, vil annenhver pinne strikkes fra retten og annenhver pinne strikkes fra vrangen. Siden diagrammet viser alle masker sett fra rettsiden, må det derfor strikkes motsatt når det strikkes fra vrangen. Du leser raden fra venstre mot høyre, rettmasker strikkes vrang, vrangmasker strikkes rett (dette står ofte i symbolforklaringen: «rett fra rettsiden, vrang fra vrangsiden»). mvh DROPS Design

26.09.2022 - 11:05

country flag Renée-Claude Belzile wrote:

Bonjour. Mon 2e rang de côtes n'est toujours pas fait. Pas d'augmentation sur ce rang (envers). Est-ce normal qu'après les 3 points mousse, le jeté sera tricoté à l'endroit ainsi que la maille suivante (côtes), je me retrouve avec des mailles décalées par la suite ? Puisque les mailles qui suivent sur l'aiguille sont une envers et l'autre endroit. Les côtes ne suivent donc pas le rang précédent. Merci.

01.10.2020 - 04:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Belzille, au 1er rang, vous avez fait: 3 m point mousse, 1 jeté, côtes en commençant par 2 m end - et le rang s'est terminé par 2m end, 1 jeté, 3 m point mousse. Sur l'envers, vous tricotez les mailles des côtes comme elles se présentent et les augmentations en côtes, au 2ème rang (après la 1ère augmentation) vous tricotez: 3 m point mousse, tricotez le jeté à l'endroit, côtes en commençant par 2 m env (= comme elles se présentent), et vous terminez par 2 m env (côtes), 1 m end (le jeté) et 3 m point mousse; Bon tricot!

01.10.2020 - 10:27

country flag Renée-Claude Belzile wrote:

Bonjour, encore moi ! Comme je suis à 335 mailles et que je dois faire un rang de côtes 2/2 sans augmentation, ça ne peut arriver égal puisque j'ai un nombre de mailles impairs ? En commençant le rang en côtes, c'est ok jusqu'à la maille central et à ce moment, il y a un décalage. Pourtant j'ai bien respecté la séquence précédente: " 3 mailles au point mousse, 1 jeté, 2 m. end., 2 m. envers, etc." Merci.

23.09.2020 - 17:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Beilzile, après le 1er rang de côtes sur l'endroit, tricotez sur l'envers les mailles comme elles se présentent, incorporez les jetés aux côtes 2/2, autrement dit, celui après les 3 m point mousse par exemple va se tricoter à l'endroit sur l'envers (et à l'envers sur l'endroit), au prochain rang sur l'endroit, vous augmenterez 1 m de nouveau et aurez alors 2 m env,, vu sur l'endroit, de chaque côté, à 3 m point mousse du bord. Tricotez les augmentations suivantes à l'envers sur l'envers = après 2 augmentations, vous aurez 2 m end à 3 m point mousse des bords. Tricotez les augmentations de chaque côté du milieu de la même façon. Bon tricot!

24.09.2020 - 09:15

country flag Renée-Claude Belzile wrote:

Bonjour. Mon premier rang de côtes après les 331 mailles est fait. Je suis donc rendu à un rang pair (envers). Vous répondez dans un autre message qu'il faut poursuivre les augmentations 1 rang sur 2. Après avoir fait la séquence telle qu'identifiée avec augmentations (mon rang 161), je suis rendue à mon 2e rang de côtes (rang pair donc 0 augmentation). C'est indiqué qu'il faut poursuivre en côtes, je ne comprends pas comment débuter le rang.

23.09.2020 - 04:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Belzile, les 4 augmentations précédentes continuent comme avant = au début du rang, de chaque côté de la maille centrale et en fin de rang (tricotez ces augmentations en côtes), celles des côtes se font quand indiqué (= 1er rang sur l'endroit après les 331 m), puis à 67 cm et à 74 cm on augmente dans les mailles envers des côtes. Bon tricot!

23.09.2020 - 08:21

country flag Renée-Claude Belzile wrote:

Autre question: Quand vous dites: "Tricoter un rang endroit sur l'envers" après les 331 mailles, en réalité on continu au point mousse ce rang qui devrait être un rang pair (ex. rang 160) ? Merci

11.09.2020 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Belzille, ces 2 rangs (= 1 rang endroit sur l'endroit en augmentant + 1 rang endroit sur l'envers) vont effectivement former une côte mousse, dans la continuité, mais vous aurez ajusté votre nombre de mailles à 331 au 1er de ces 2 rangs. Bon tricot!

14.09.2020 - 08:02

country flag Renée-Claude Belzile wrote:

Bonjour. Première question d'autres suivront....J'ai atteint le 60 cm, il me reste 3 rangs à faire avant d'atteindre les 331 mailles. Je change quand même mes aiguilles pour des 4.5 avant de faire ces 3 rangs ? Ça ne va pas déformer le travail en le rapetissant ? Merci

11.09.2020 - 16:16

DROPS Design answered:

BonjourMme Belzile, vous pouvez au choix tricoter encore 3 rangs ou bien répartir les augmentations nécessaires au rang sur l'endroit suivant. Vous tricotez ensuite avec les petites aiguilles (= 4,5) en côtes, en augmentant à 67 cm, à 74 cm et à 80 cm. Bon tricot!

14.09.2020 - 08:01

country flag Lelong wrote:

Je ne comprend pas à 67 cm faut augmenter dans toutes les mailles à l’envers ?

09.02.2020 - 13:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lelong, tout à fait, à 67 cm on augmente 1 maille envers dans les sections 2 m env des côtes (vu sur l'endroit), on va ensuite continuer en côtes 2 m end/3 m env (vu sur l'endroit soit 2 m env, 3 m end, vu sur l'envers). Bon tricot!

10.02.2020 - 09:23

country flag Margaret wrote:

I am going to try and knit this beautiful hat .Will let you know what it's like Thank you for the free pattern

09.06.2019 - 14:18

country flag Lebigot wrote:

Bonjour, Je n'ai pas bien compris s'il fallait que je fasse des augmentations tous les rangs ou seulement un rang sur deux après les 331 mailles. J'ai fais le rang de cote avec les jetés sur l'endroit mais je ne sais pas quoi faire pour le rang suivant envers? Merci

01.02.2017 - 18:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lebigot, les augmentations vont se faire tous les 2 rangs = tous les rangs sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

02.02.2017 - 13:32