DROPS / 135 / 13

Firenze by DROPS Design

Knitted men's jumper with raglan and high neck, in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Fabel. Size: S to XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no FA-170
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Colour no 7238m, dark olive mix:
300-350-400-450-500-550 g
And use: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
Colour no 542p, green mix:
300-350-400-450-500-550 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 2 threads = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for rib

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100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RAGLAN:
Dec on each side of the 9 sts in rib in every transition between body and sleeves.

Dec as follows from RS:
BEFORE the 9 sts: K 2 tog.
AFTER the 9 sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

Dec as follows from WS:
BEFORE the 9 sts: P 2 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front).
AFTER the 9 sts: P 2 tog
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 168-180-192-204-228-252 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Fabel. Work rib = K 3/P 3 for 7 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm, work next round as follows: * K 4, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* a total of 11-12-13-14-16-18 times, K 3, continue rib as before over the next 15 sts (= mid in the side), repeat from *-* a total of 11-12-13-14-16-18 times, K 3, then work rib over the last 15 sts as before (= mid in the other side) = 146-156-166-176-196-216 sts. Continue with rib over the 15 sts in each side and in stocking st over the remaining sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 18 cm, inc 1 st on each side of the 15 sts in rib in each side. Repeat inc every 6 cm a total of 5 times – work the inc sts in stocking st = 166-176-186-196-216-236 sts. When piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm, cast off the middle 7 sts in rib in each side = 152-162-172-182-202-222 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 48-48-54-54-60-60 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Fabel. Work rib = K 3/P 3 for 9 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Work next round as follows: Work in stocking st over the first 33-33-39-39-45-45 sts and rib as before over the last 15 sts (= mid under sleeve). When piece measures 11 cm, inc 1 st on each side of the 15 sts in rib. Repeat inc every 4-3-3½-3-3-3 cm a total of 10-12-11-13-12-13 times = 68-72-76-80-84-86 sts – work the inc sts in stocking st. When piece measures 49 cm in all sizes, cast off the 7 mid sts in rib = 61-65-69-73-77-79 sts remain on needle.
Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 274-292-310-328-356-380 sts. Work 1 round with K over K and P over P – AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st in all transitions between body and sleeves (K this st) = 278-296-314-332-360-384 sts. In all transitions between body and sleeve there are now: P 3, K 3 and P 3 = 9 sts in rib. Continue to work K over K and P over P while at the same time dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above! Repeat dec on every other round a total of 17-18-18-18-18-19 times and then on every round a total of 5-6-8-10-12-12 times. AT THE SAME TIME when 5 dec remain, slip the middle 18-19-20-23-25-27 sts mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Worked back and forth on needle until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME cast off at the beg of every row 1 st 2 times in each side (= towards the neck). After all dec for raglan and cast offs for neck, 80-81-82-81-91-105 sts remain on needle.

NECK:
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Knit up approx. 22 to 31 sts at the front of neck (incl sts on stitch holder) = 102 to 136 sts. Work 1 round with K over K and P over P while at the same time adjusting no of sts to 102-102-102-114-114-114 (there are now 21-21-21-27-27-27 sts in stocking st over back piece, 27-27-27-33-33-33 sts in stocking st over front piece and 9 sts in stocking st over each sleeve). Continue in rib = K 3, P 3 over all sts - this should work out so that all the raglan sts can be worked as before. When neck measures approx. 20 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P. Fold the neck double towards RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 135-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (137)

Diana 21.11.2020 - 16:21:

Hej. Jeg har lige sat ærmerne på og skal i gang med raglan. Jeg strikker ret rundt på rundpind - hvorfor står der indtagning fra vrangsiden? Jeg strikker jo kun ret - udover de 9 masker rib. Det forstår jeg simpelthen ikke?

Ludmila Bílá 07.11.2020 - 12:15:

Dobrý den není mi zcela jasná tato část: Ve výšce 18 cm přidáme z každé strany 15 ok pletených patentem 1 oko. Přidávání opakujeme každých 6 cm celkem 5 krát – přidávaná oka pleteme lícovým žerzejem Svetr pletu poprvé podle návodu a v tuto chvíli mám na jehlici 166 ok na konci před uzavřením jich mám mít 186. Ale 5krát mám přidat 30 ok. Co jsem špatně pochopila? (Některé výrazy v návodu jsem slyšela poprvé). Předem děkuji za radu

Kennie Laking 17.09.2020 - 14:30:

Hi there. I’m a bit stuck on the 5dec, part of this pattern. Does this mean 5 single dec. as in 5 raglan dec. or the whole row? Could you please explain what this means as I can’t seem to get to an odd number. It’s the part on the neckline.

DROPS Design 17.09.2020 kl. 16:35:

Dear Mrs Laking, you should slip the middle stitches for neck when you have to work the first of the 5 remaining decreases for raglan (= 10 rows remain to work). Happy knitting!

Pia Sørensen 30.07.2020 - 19:15:

Hej kan i hjælpe mig med den her, hvordan skal jeg forstår den? Har ellers starten med at strikke. Men ku ikke videre * 4 r, 2 r sm *, gentag fra *-* totalt 11-12-13-14-16-18 gange, 3 r, fortsæt Ribben som før over de næste 15 m (= midt i siden), gentag fra *-* totalt 11-12-13-14-16-18 gange, 3 r, derefter strikkes Rib over de sidste 15 m som før (= midt i den anden side) = 146-156-166-176-196-216 m.

DROPS Design 11.09.2020 kl. 09:05:

Hej Pia, du strikker 5. og 6. maske ret sammen det antal gange som står for din størrelse (11-12-13-14-16-18 gange) = S=11, M=12, L=13 gange osv. God fornøjelse!

Trisha 16.07.2020 - 15:36:

Could you please clarify the dimensions on the schematic from the armpit (18-19-20cm etc). Is this the measurement from the armpit to the top of the bind off? I find myself perhaps short in the yoke. But if I continue knitting back and forth to get the correct dimensions will the front middle stitches on the holder be too low? Much appreciated.

DROPS Design 16.07.2020 kl. 16:17:

Dear Trisha, the 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm on yoke are the height from the pieces worked together to the beg of neck - the 4 cm are for the shoulders = armhole will be then 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm from stitches worked all together to the top of shoulder when piece is laying flat. Happy knitting!

Lena 13.07.2020 - 09:45:

Hej Jeg skal strikke denne trøje til min søn men han ønsker ikke høj hals. Hvordan kan jeg slutte af med en almindelig rund hals i rib der ikke bliver for bred. Mvh

DROPS Design 13.07.2020 kl. 14:47:

Hei Lena. Se om du finner et bilde av en annen herre modell / oppskrift vi har som din sønn liker. Sjekk da maskeantallet før det strikkes vrangbord til hals og sammenligne det med den du strikker og prøv å matche oppskriftene. Garnet må være i samme garngruppe/ ha ca samme strikkefasthet/pinnestørrelse. God Fornøyelse!

Trisha 02.07.2020 - 14:58:

Hello I’m having trouble understanding this instruction and wondering if you could please clarify “bind off 1 st at the beg of every row 2 times in each side (= towards the neck).” Many thanks!

DROPS Design 02.07.2020 kl. 17:29:

Dear Trisha, after you have bind off the middle 18-27 stitches on mid front for neck you continue working yoke back and forth (= in rows) decreasing for raglan as before (you might have to decrease now from WS) - the rows begin now from neck, you will have to bind off at the beg of every row (= from neck) both from RS and from WS 1 stitch at the beg of next 2 rows. Happy knitting!

Cindy 09.05.2020 - 04:08:

Je suis rendu aux diminutions au niveau du raglan, mais j'ai l'impression qu'elles sont contraire à ce qu'elles devraient être. Avant les 9 mailles sur l'endroit cest 2 ensemble. Après 9 mailles, c'est glisse une maille et passe la glissé par dessus une maille tricoté endroit. Je ne suis pas certaine de comprendre la construction d'après moi. Je suis vraiment embêté!

DROPS Design 11.05.2020 kl. 09:11:

Bonjour Cindy, cette vidéo montre comment tricoter un raglan sur l'endroit et sur l'envers, à la place des 4 mailles jersey dans la vidéo, vous aurez vous vos 9 mailles en côtes. Bon tricot!

Cindy Asselin 22.02.2020 - 18:25:

Bonjour, je suis embêté pour le choix de grandeur. Dans les explications du patron anglais les tailles dans les explications sont différentes que celle dans le diagramme a la fin. Je voudrais seulement m'assurer de tricoter la bonne taille. Merci beaucoup d'avance!

DROPS Design 24.02.2020 kl. 08:30:

Bonjour Mme Asselin, pour choisir la bonne taille, mesurez un vêtement similaire qui va à la personne qui portera le pull (et dont il aime la forme), comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma, vous saurez ainsi quelle taille tricoter - voir aussi ici. Bon tricot!

Cindy 15.02.2020 - 01:19:

Est-ce possible de tricoter ce chandail en circulaire? J'ai lu le patron et j'ai cru comprendre que toutes les pieces nécessitait des coutures. Je ne suis pas la pro des coutures alors je tente ma chance!

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 08:09:

Bonjour Cindy, ce pull se tricote entièrement en rond, de bas en haut, on reprend ensuite toutes les pièces (dos/devant et manches) ensemble pour tricoter l'empiècement puis le col. Les seules coutures seront celles sous les manches (cf vidéo si besoin). Bon tricot!

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