DROPS / 135 / 36

Sir Lancelot by DROPS Design

Men's knitted jumper with textured pattern and v-neck, in DROPS Karisma. Sizes S to XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no U-645
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
Colour no 64, greypurple:
650-700-750-850-900-1000 g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm - for rib.
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100% Wool
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DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 to M.3 – diagrams show pattern from RS. M.1 = 24 sts in width, M.2 = 12 sts in width and M.3 = 18 sts in width.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 110-122-134-146-158-170 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 3 mm with Karisma. Work rib as follows (seen from from RS): 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above, * K 1, P 3 *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 edge st in garter st. When rib measures approx. 5 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from WS), switch to needle size 4 mm. P 1 row from WS while at the same time dec 12 sts evenly = 98-110-122-134-146-158 sts. Work next row as follows (from RS):
SIZE S:
1 edge st in garter st, diagram M.1, M.2, M.1, M.2, M.1 and 1 edge st in garter st.
SIZE M:
1 edge st in garter st, 6 sts in stocking st, diagram M.1, M.2, M.1, M.2, M.1, 6 sts in stocking st and 1 edge st in garter st.
SIZE L:
1 edge st in garter st, diagram M.2, M.1, M.2, M.1, M.2, M.1, M.2 and 1 edge st in garter st.
SIZE XL:
1 edge st in garter st, 6 sts in stocking st, diagram M.2, M.1, M.2, M.1, M.2, M.1, M.2, 6 sts in stocking st and 1 edge st in garter st.
SIZE XXL:
1 edge st in garter st, 12 sts of diagram M.1 – start in the 13th st from the right side in diagram, diagram M.2, M.1, M.2, M.1, M.2, M.1, M.2 and 12 sts of diagram M.1 – start in first st in diagram - and 1 edge st in garter st.
SIZE XXXL:
1 edge st in garter st, 18 sts of diagram M.1 – start in the 7th st from the right side in diagram, diagram M.2, M.1, M.2, M.1, M.2, M.1, M.2 and 18 sts of diagram M.1 – start in first st in diagram - and 1 edge st in garter st.
ALL SIZES:
Continue to work the same way until piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Now cast off 1-2-2-3-4-5 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. cast off at the beg of the next 2 rows) = 96-106-118-128-138-148 sts. Continue the pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm (adjust after 1 half repetition or 1 whole repetition of diagram M.1 and M.2 vertically), work 2 rows in stocking st, then continue with diagram M.3 over all sts (except edge st) – see arrow for your size; this marks where to beg in the diagram. AT THE SAME TIME when 4 rows remain of diagram M.3, cast off the middle 36-38-40-42-44-46 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 2 sts on next row from neck = 28-32-37-41-45-49 sts remain on the shoulder. When diagram M.3 has been worked, work approx. 1 cm in stocking st, then cast off. Piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as back piece. Cast off for armhole as on back piece and continue until piece measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm. Then work 2 rows in stocking st - while at the same time on 1st row casting off the middle 4 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Work pattern as on back piece (make sure that diagram M.3 is worked the same way on each side of neck) – AT THE SAME TIME cast off on every row from neck: 2 sts 5-6-7-8-9-10 times and then 1 st 8-7-6-5-4-3 times = 28-32-37-41-45-49 sts remain on shoulder. Cast off when same no of rows has been worked as on back piece.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 62 sts for all sizes (incl 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 3 mm with Karisma. Work rib as follows (seen from from RS): 1 edge st in garter st, * K 1, P 3 *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures approx. 5 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from WS), switch to needle size 4 mm. P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, diagram M.1, M.2, M.1 and 1 edge st in garter st, continue like this. When piece measures 9 cm, inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 9th-8th-6th-5th-4th-4th row a total of 12-14-16-18-20-21 times - work the inc sts in stocking st = 86-90-94-98-102-104 sts. When piece measures approx. 46-46-44-42-40-39 cm (adjust after 1 half or 1 whole repetition of diagram M.1 and M.2 vertically, inc should be finished), work 2 rows in stocking st, then continue with diagram M.3 – start in first st on right side of diagram (the pattern will not fit at the end of row). After diagram M.3 work (if there is room) in stocking st until piece measures 56-56-54-52-50-49 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width), cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

NECK:
Knit up approx. 119 to 139 sts (divisible by 4 + 3) around the neck on circular needle size 3 mm with Karisma – beg mid front. Then the piece is worked back and forth from mid front. First row from WS is worked as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * P 1, K 3 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P 1 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue with K over K and P over P and edge st in garter st until neck edge measures approx. 6 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P. Place the neck on top of each other mid front, left side over right, fasten with stitches from both WS and RS.

Sew the sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 21.11.2011
SIZE XL:
1 edge st in garter st, 6 sts in stocking st, diagram M.2, M.1, M.2, M.1, M.2, M.1, M.2, 6 sts in stocking st and 1 edge st in garter st.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 135-36) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (108)

Alicia 29.11.2020 - 17:42:

Podrian hacer un video tutorial terminacion cuello del patron sir lancelot, gracias Could you make a video tutorial finishing the collar of the skipper sir lancelot, thanks

Lianne Bosman 20.11.2020 - 12:10:

In de breiwinkel de foto in het patronenboek bekeken. De beschrijving van het boordpstroon is wel juist. De foto in het boek laat dat duidelijk zien. Veel beter dan de weergave op internet.

Lianne Bosman 19.11.2020 - 12:36:

Boordsteek is gezien op goede kant 1r 3av. De foto toont 1av en 2 of 3 r. Kan er een duidelijker uitleg komen a.u.b?

DROPS Design 20.11.2020 kl. 11:12:

Dag Lianne,

Inderdaad, ik denk dat het andersom moet zijn, of je begint gelijk aan de goede kant. Ik zal het doorgeven aan de ontwerpafdeling om te controleren en aan te passen.

Tamiye 05.11.2020 - 03:22:

I am ready for M3 chart. If I start the large pattern where indicated and repeat on 18 stitches it doesn’t look right. The repeat has extra stitches left. How do I correct it?

DROPS Design 05.11.2020 kl. 10:39:

Dear Tamiye, start first repeat on row at the stitch with the arrow then continue this repeat to the end, then repeat the whole repeat to the end of the row, if you haven't enough stitches at the end of the row for a whole repeat, it looks right, start a new repeat over these stitches - that way, pattern will be centered as it should be. Note which stitch you end with, this will be the new stitch to work from WS (and read then from the right towards the left from WS from this stitch). Happy knitting!

Ami 28.10.2020 - 09:31:

Hi, I've just started knitting size XXL of this pattern and am a bit confused as to how to read diagram for this size. So, for RS to knit 12 sts of diagram M.1 I am starting in the 13th st from the right side in diagram, knit M2, M1, M2, M1, M2, M1, M2 and 12 sts of diagram M.1 – start in first st in diagram. But what is happening at WS? Where should I start counting first 12 sts of M1? In the 13th st from the left side? and the second 12 sts of M1? Thank you!

DROPS Design 28.10.2020 kl. 16:10:

Dear Ami, diagrams are worked from RS from the right towards the left and then from the left towards the right from WS (1st row = RS). This means that the last stitch worked in M.1 from RS will be the first stitch worked in M.1 from WS. This lesson might help you. Happy knitting!

Kerstin Dahlgren 18.07.2020 - 11:06:

Stickar bakstycket till "Sir Lancelot" Modell nr U-645 i storlek L dvs lagt upp 134 maskor som sedan minskas till 122 efter resåren (ovanligt att minska?) Sen avmaskas för ärmhålen 1-2-2-3-4-5 = 17 maskor i var sida = 34 maskor. Då står det att det ska vara 118 maskor kvar. MEN 34 maskor från 122 blir 88! Hjälp mig med detta för nu kommer jag inte vidare. Stämmer det att man ska avmaska 40 mittersta för halsringningen? Bästa hälsningar Kerstin

DROPS Design 27.07.2020 kl. 15:46:

Hej Kerstin, du avmaskar bara 2 maskor i din storlek (S1-M2-L2-XL3-XXL4-XXXL5 m) i varje sida för ärmhål (dvs att det avm i början på de 2 nästa v) = 96-106-118-128-138-148 m. Lycka till :)

Eva-Britt 06.07.2020 - 20:27:

Hej! Börjat på M3 bakstycket..får inte till det. Börjat från rätsidan och efter kantmaska börjat vid pilen (M) Hur fortsätter jag sen? Får inte ihop mönstret? Stämmer inte nästa varv avigan? Tacksam för hjälp

DROPS Design 07.07.2020 kl. 14:01:

Hej Eva-Britt, du börjar från rätsidan vid pilen-M, stickar de 7m mot vänster, börjar från höger i diagrammet, upprepar varvet ut. Börja nu med samma maska du slutade med fast på varv 2 och sticka mot höger i diagrammet. Lycka till :)

Wirth 15.02.2020 - 09:14:

Pour la taille L je rencontre des difficultés pour réaliser le motif M3. du dos.\r\nPremier rang démarre à partir de la flèche L et nous lisons le schéma de droite vers la gauche.\r\nEst ce que le rang à l\'envers se tricote depuis la première case à gauche vers la droite?\r\nle rendu de mon tricot ne rend pas bien ca ne donne pas du tout le résultat qui est sur la photo.

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 08:20:

Bonjour Mme Wirth, notez bien la dernière maille du diagramme que vous tricotez sur l'endroit, au rang suivant sur l'envers, ce sera la première maille à tricoter et vous lirez alors le diagramme de gauche à droite en terminant le dernier motif commencé avant la m lis, puis vous répéterez le diagramme en le lisant de gauche à droite et vous terminerez par le dernier demi-motif toujours de gauche à droite. Bon tricot!

Maria Cristina 3 31.01.2020 - 16:09:

Buon pomeriggio, mi scuso perché sto scrivendo di nuovo, ma non ho ricevuto risposta, ho pensato che non abbiate visto la mia domanda del 28 gennaio. Sto facendo questo modello, la taglia S ma non riesco a capire lo schema M3, da dove devo iniziare. Grazie

DROPS Design 31.01.2020 kl. 21:33:

Buongiorno Maria Cristina. Inizia il diagramma M.3 dalla freccia che corrisponde alla sua taglia. Quindi, per la taglia S, Inizia dalla penultima maglia del diagramma. Buon lavoro!

Maria Cristina Rucci 28.01.2020 - 17:12:

Buona sera, sono ancora io, scrivo sempre per avere spiegazioni su questa maglia. Non capisco come devo lavorare per il diagramma M3, sto eseguendo la taglia S, ma non so se devo iniziare a contare le maglie dalla destra del disegno, per arrivare fino alla freccia S oppure è il contrario. Grazie

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