DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g

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Dreams of Aran

Men's knitted jumper with cables in DROPS Karisma, DROPS Puna or DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size 13/14 years - XXXL.

DROPS 135-3
DROPS design: Pattern no U-593
Yarn group B
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Size:
13/14 years - S - M-L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
650-750-800-850-950-1050-1150 g colour no 44 light grey

Or use:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio
600-700-750-800-900-1000-1050 g colour no 07 light grey

Or use:
DROPS Merino Extra Fine from Garnstudio
650-750-800-850-950-1050-1150 g colour no 05 light grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) size 3.5 mm - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Children Men Children Jumpers Men's Jumpers Aran Knitting bottom up cable honeycomb round neck saddle shoulder sewn in sleeves

UK
Ireland

DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 – M.5. Diagrams show the pattern from RS.

DECREASING TIP:
Work 1 st as in diagram, work 2 sts tog, pass over the first st on needle = 2 dec sts.
Dec as follows in the different diagrams
M.1 (= 44-44-52-52-52-52-52 sts): 10-10-12-12-12-12-12 sts.
M.3 (= 8 sts): 2 sts.
M.4 (= 10 sts): 3 sts.
M.5 (= 16 sts): 6 sts.
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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The sleeve is worked upwards, continued onto the shoulder and along the neck, top back. The neck-stitches at the top of the sleeve are decreased towards the front piece and a small section of the sleeve is continued along the top of the back piece and later sewn together mid-back, so the neck is higher at the back than at the front – see Fig.1.
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BODY PIECE:
Worked in the round. Cast on 208-230-250-270-290-310-330 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Karisma, Puna or Merino Extra Fine. Work 4 rounds GARTER ST – see above – and continue in rib K1/P1. When piece measures 5 cm work 2 rounds garter st, AT THE SAME TIME inc 20-10-6-6-22-18-18 sts evenly on last round = 228-240-256-276-312-328-348 sts. Insert 2 markers in piece, 1 at beg of round and 1 after 114-120-128-138-156-164-174 sts (= each side). Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work PATTERN as follows – see above:
Size 13/14 – L: M.2 on the first 9-12-12-17 sts, M.3, M.4, M.3, M.1 on the next 44-44-52-52 sts, M.3, M.4, M.3, M.2 on the next 18-24-24-34 sts, M.3, M.4, M.3, M.1 on the next 44-44-52-52 sts, M.3, M.4, M.3, M.2 on the last 9-12-12-17 sts.
Size XL-XXXL: M.2 on the first 8-12-17 sts, M.3, M.4, M.3, M.4, M.3, M.1 on the next 52-52-52 sts, M.3, M.4, M.3, M.4, M.3, M.2 on the next 16-24-34 sts, M.3, M.4, M.3, M.4, M.3, M.1 on the next 52-52-52 sts, M.3, M.4, M.3, M.4, M.3, M.2 on the last 8-12-17 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue in pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 9 cm inc 1 st each side of both markers (work inc sts into M.2 as you go along). Repeat the inc on every 6-8-8-9-9-9-10 cm a total of 5 times = 248-260-276-296-332-348-368 sts. When piece measures 38-47-48-49-50-51-52 cm cast off 6 sts for armhole each side (= 3 sts each side of marker) and complete each piece separately (make sure cable rows are from RS after dividing piece).

BACK PIECE:
= 118-124-132-142-160-168-178 sts. Continue back and forth on circular needle. Cast off to shape the armhole each side at beg of every row: 2 sts 2-2-2-2-2-3-4 times and 1 st 1-1-2-3-4-4-5 times = 108-114-120-128-144-148-152 sts. Continue in pattern. When piece measures 49-59-61-63-65-67-69 cm (adjust so that next row is row 7 in diagram M.1, M.3 and M.4) cast off, AT THE SAME TIME dec 24-24-26-26-36-36-36 sts in diagram on casting off row – see DECREASING TIP!

FRONT PIECE:
= 118-124-132-142-160-168-178 sts. Cast off for armhole as described for back piece. When piece measures 46-56-58-60-62-64-66 cm (adjust so that next row is first or 5th row in M.1) cast off the middle 40-40-48-48-48-48-48 sts for neck, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-10-12-12-12-12-12 sts evenly on the 40-40-48-48-48-48-48 sts on cast off row. Now complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 2 sts on neckline on next row. When piece measures 49-59-61-63-65-67-69 cm (adjust to back piece) cast off, AT THE SAME TIME dec 7-7-7-7-12-12-12 sts in diagram on cast off row.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Worked in the round. Cast on 56-58-60-62-64-66-68 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Karisma. Work 4 rounds garter st and continue in rib K1/P1 until piece measures 10 cm. Work 2 rounds garter st, AT THE SAME TIME inc 2 sts evenly on last round = 58-60-62-64-66-68-70 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and continue in pattern on next round as follows: M.2 on the first 5-6-7-8-9-10-11 sts, M.3 2 times, M.5, M.3 2 times, M.2 on the last 5-6-7-8-9-10-11 sts. Continue in pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 13-12-13-12-12-14-13 cm inc 1 st each side of marker. Work inc sts into M.2 as you go along. Repeat the inc on every 2-2.5-2-2-2-1.5-1.5 cm a total of 14-15-16-17-18-19-20 times = 86-90-94-98-102-106-110 sts. When piece measures 45-50-50-49-49-48-48 cm cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts each side of marker) and complete piece back and forth on needle (make sure to have cable row from RS after dividing piece). Cast off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 2-4-6-7-9-10-12 times and 1 st 12-10-8-8-6-6-4 times = 48 sts left on needle for all sizes. Piece measures 55-60-60-60-60-60-60 cm. Now measure piece from here! Continue in pattern on remaining sts until piece measures 12-14-13-15-17-18-19 cm. Now cast off on right side of piece, at the beg of every row from RS as follows: 24 sts 1 time (AT THE SAME TIME as 14 of these 24 sts K2 tog before they are cast off), 3 sts 2 times. Work 3 rows without dec. Cast off 1 st on next row = 17 sts left for all sizes. Continue until piece measures 19-21-22-24-26-27-28 cm. Cast off, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts evenly in diagram on cast off row. The whole sleeve now measures approx 74-81-82-84-86-87-88 cm.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Like right sleeve, but cast off at the top at the opposite side, i.e. at the beg of every row from WS.

ASSEMBLY:
Set in sleeves. Sew shoulder sts from body piece to M.3 each side of sleeve (in outer loops of sts). Sew the top of sleeves tog mid back and sew to back piece.

NECKLINE:
Pick up 94-94-108-108-108-108-108 sts round neckline on small circular needle size 3.5 mm with Karisma, Puna or Merino Extra Fine. Work 4 rounds garter st, AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 22-22-26-26-26-26-26 sts evenly = 116-116-134-134-134-134-134 sts. Continue in rib K1/P1. When rib measures 8 cm work 2 rounds garter st and cast off. Fold neck double towards WS and fasten, garter st to garter st.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 03.10.2011
New chart M.5 has been added.

Updated online: 31.08.2017
Shoulder width has been edited on the schematic, all sizes.

Updated online: 21.12.2017
1 skein added in all sizes (and yarn).

Diagram

	= K from RS, P from WS
	= P from RS, K from WS
	= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
	= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
	= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
	= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (539)

Anita Jonsson wrote:

Ang "Dreams of Aran" 135-3 St S Hej! Jag har 2 frågor: 1. Ni skriver HUR men inte NÄR det ska avmaskas?? 2. M1 består av 8 m. I beskrivningen står det att man ska: sticka de följande 44 m i M1 men 44 går inte att dela i 8. Närjag har stickat M1 8 ggr så har jag 4 m kvar, fattar inte????

07.08.2024 - 19:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anita, så strikker du en snoning mere over de 4 masker i diagrammet. Mener du avmaskning til ärmhål, i så fald er det når arb måler 48 cm i str M :)

14.08.2024 - 14:55

Dubois Diane wrote:

En faisant le travail sur une circulaire on tricote toujours en rond alors comment peut on mettre 1 maille envers sur endroit et end sur envers

03.08.2024 - 07:16

Bonjour Mme Dubois, il arrivera un moment dans la réalisation des diagrammes où vous tricoterez en allers et retours (après la division des emmanchures par exemple), autrement dit, lorsque vous tricotez sur l'endroit = en rond, tricotez les mailles comme elles doivent se présenter sur l'endroit en suivant le diagramme comme indiqué. Bon tricot!

05.08.2024 - 07:20

De Nattes wrote:

Merci de me repondre mais le descriptif n’est pas complet il manque après 9m de M3 8m,M4 :10m,M3 8m c’est la première fois que je suis vos explications et suis un peu perdue

02.08.2024 - 16:31

Bonjour Mme De Nattes, pouvez-vous nous indiquer quelle taille vous tricotez? Combien de mailles vous avez monté? Merci pour votre compréhension.

05.08.2024 - 08:24

Bonjour et merci de me répondre j’ai effectué côtes et augmentations :228 m pour tailleL 1er rang : M 2 pour 9 m, M3 pour 44 m,M 3 pour 18 m, M3 pour 44m,M3 pour 9 m total :124 m pour 1 coté soit 248 m pour un tour,je ne comprends pas vos explications,merci de me mettre sur la voie

01.08.2024 - 16:04

Bonjour Mme De Nattes, la taille L est ici la 4ème taille (on commence par monter 250 mailles); puis on a 276 mailles après les augmentations, vous parlez de 228 mailles, c'est le nombre de mailles en taille 13/14 ans; je suppose, vu le nombre de mailles indiqué que c'est celle que vous tricotez, et donc ainsi: 9 m de M.2, M.3 (8 m), M4 (10 m), M3 (8 m), 44 m M.1, M3, M4,M3, 18 m de M3, M3, M4, M3, 44 m de M1, M4,M3,M2 et 9 m de M2 soit 9+8+10+8+44+8+10+8+18+8+10+8+44+8+10+8+9=228. Bon tricot!

02.08.2024 - 09:10

Riikka Kotisaari wrote:

Onko tuo hihan ohje aivan oikein. Kun työn pituus on 17 cm. Päätä sitten työn oikeasta reunasta 1x24 s (kavenna samalla näiden silmukoiden kohdalla 14 s, neulomalla s:t parettain yhteen ennen kuin päätät ne). Kysymys kuului miten ihmeessä saan nuo 14 kavennusta 24 silmukkaan jos silmukat neulotaan parettain yhteen?

31.07.2024 - 19:04

Hei, ohjeeseen tehdään korjaus. Vain 14 silmukkaa näistä 24 silmukkaa neulotaan pareittain yhteen, eli työstä kavennetaan 7 silmukkaa samalla kun silmukat päätetään.

01.08.2024 - 17:21

Pour la taille l le nombre de mailles ne correspond pas modèle 135-3 veuillez donner des précisions svp merci

27.07.2024 - 21:13

Bonjour Mme De Nattes, pouvez-vous nous indiquer la taille que vous tricotez ainsi que le niveau où vous en êtes exactement? Nous pourrons ainsi mieux vous aider. Merci pour votre compréhension.

01.08.2024 - 09:21

L\'explication n\'est pas bonne pour la taille l le nombre de mailles ne correspond pas j\'attends une explication

27.07.2024 - 21:05

Sue wrote:

I am making xl size. I am just starting the sleeve cap with 96 stitches after casting off 6 stitches. Pattern calls for casting off 2 stitches for 9 rows then casting off 1 stitch for 6 rows. This would leave me with 72 stitches, not 48 as pattern says. How do I get to 48 stitches. Thank you in advance.

12.07.2024 - 23:59

Hi Sue, you have to cast off stitches from both sides of the sleeve: 96- 9x4 stitches (in row) - 6x2 stitches (in row) = 96-36-12=48 stitches. Happy knitting!

13.07.2024 - 15:59

FLEURET BRIGITTE wrote:

Rebonjour, J'ai trouvé ma réponse dans un commentaire de Beth p 10. Je vous prie de m'excuser. Je n'avais pas compris les 52 mailles de M1 Bonne journée

11.07.2024 - 09:41

Parfait. Bonne continuation!

12.07.2024 - 13:48

Bonjour, Pardon de vous solliciter à nouveau, je ne comprends pas les motifs de départ taille XL. On a 312 m au démarrage. Répartition M2 =8 m, M3,M4,M3,M4,M3,M1= 52m,M3,M4,M3,M4,M3 =44m, M2=16m,M3,M4,M3,M4,M3, M1=52m,M3,M4,M3,M4,M3=44m M2=8m. 8+52+44+16+52+44+8=224m. Il me manque 88m, je ne comprends pas. Pourriez-vous m'éclairer s'il vous plait ? Merci d'avance Cordialement

09.07.2024 - 18:21

Bonjour Brigitte, vous avez dispose les diagrammes bien, mais vous avez oublie d'ajouter 2 x 44 mailles. Voila mes calculs: M2 =8 m, M3,M4,M3,M4,M3 (44m),M1= 52m, M3,M4,M3,M4,M3 (44m), M2=16m, M3,M4,M3,M4,M3 (44m), M1=52m, M3,M4,M3,M4,M3 (44m), M2=8m > 312 m. Bon tricot!

13.07.2024 - 15:32