DROPS / 139 / 8

Summer Harmony by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS hat in ”Safran” and ”Cotton Viscose”.

DROPS design: Pattern no E-188
Yarn group A
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Size: One-size
Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
100 g color no 28, orange
And use: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
50 g color no 06, rust

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C - or size needed to get 1 square = approx. 6 x 6 cm / 2½" x 2½" (with a light pull) and 24 sts x 16 rows with PATTERN = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
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DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
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100% Cotton
1.05 $ /50g
DROPS ♥ You #9 DROPS ♥ You #9 1.05 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 1.05$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
ROUNDS WITH DC: Replace first dc at beg of every round with ch 3 and finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

ROUNDS WITH SC: Replace first sc at beg of every round with ch 1 and finish every round with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.

PATTERN:
ROUND 1 (Safran): 1 sc in every dc.
ROUND 2 (Safran): ch 4, skip 1 sc, * 1 dc in next sc, ch 1, skip 1 sc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 3 (Cotton Viscose): 1 sc in every dc and 1 sc in every ch.
ROUND 4 (Safran): 1 dc in every sc.
ROUND 5 (Cotton Viscose): 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 6 (Safran): 1 dc in every dc.
Repeat rounds 1 to 6.
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HAT:
Read US/UK above! First work the squares – they are gradually worked tog. Then work along the one side of squares and up to top (= the crown of the hat). Then work along the other side of squares and outwards (= the brim of the hat).

SQUARE 1:
Also see diagram M.1.
Ch 4 on hook size 3 mm / C with Safran and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: ch 3 (= 1 dc), work 11 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2 (switch to Cotton Viscose): ch 2, 1 sc in next dc, ch 1 * 1 sc in next dc, ch 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 3: ch 1, 1 sc in 2nd ch from previous round, * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch from previous round *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 12 ch-spaces.
ROUND 4 (switch back to Safran): ch 2, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 8 (= corner), 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, but finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round (instead of 1 sc in next ch-space). Fasten off.

SQUARE 2:
Start with Cotton Viscose and work as SQUARE 1 from 1st to 3rd round but switch yarn type so that Cotton Viscose is used on 1st round and Safran on 2nd and 3rd round.
ROUND 4: Also see diagram M.2.
Work with Safran as follows: ch 2, 1 sc in first ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, place the square WS against WS with SQUARE 1, work 1 sc in one of the large ch-spaces on SQUARE 1 (= corner), ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 2, * ch 2, 1 sc in next small ch-space on SQUARE 1, ch 2, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 2 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, ch 4, 1 sc in next large ch-space on SQUARE 1 (= corner), ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 2. Then work around SQUARE 2 as follows: ** ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 8, 1 sc in next ch-space **, repeat from **-** 1 more time but finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. Fasten off.

Now work SQUARE 1 and SQUARE 2 alternately (while at the same time working them tog as described on round 4 on SQUARE 2) until a total of 8 squares have been worked. The last square is worked tog with both the next to last and the first square so that the squares form a circle.

CROWN OF HAT:
READ CROCHET INFO ABOVE. Work with Safran on hook size 3 mm / C along one side of the squares as follows: 5 dc in each of the large ch-spaces in the corners on the squares and 3 dc in each of the small ch-spaces = 16 dc per square and 128 dc in total. Then work PATTERN - see explanation above.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾'' (incl squares) – adjust so that next round is a round with only dc or sc – dec 16 sts evenly by skipping every 8th st = 112 sts. Repeat dec every other round 3 more times and then on every round 3 times (1 st less between dec for every dec round where 1 st is skipped, i.e next round with dec skip 7th st, and next time the 6th and so on - NOTE: On 2nd round in pattern, skip 2 sc instead of 1 sc when dec) = 16 sts remain. Finally work 1 round with sc and skip every other st = 8 sts. The piece now measures approx. 19-20 cm / 7½"-8" vertically. Cut the yarn and pull it through the 8 remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

BRIM OF HAT:
Work with Safran on hook size 3 mm / C on the other side of squares the same way as along the first side, i.e. 5 dc in each of the large ch-spaces and 3 dc in each of the small ch-spaces = 128 dc. The brim is only worked with Safran as follows:
ROUND 2: 1 sc in every dc but work 2 sc in every 8th dc (i.e. inc 16 sts) = 144 sc.
ROUND 3: 1 dc in every sc.
ROUND 4: 1 sc in every dc but work 2 sc in every 9th dc = 160 sc.
ROUND 5: 1 dc in every sc.
Continue working 1 round dc and 1 round sc alternately while at the same time inc 16 sts on every sc round until there are 192 sts on round.
Then continue with dc and sc on every other round (but without inc) – until brim measures approx. 8 cm / 3''. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 ch
= 1 sc
= 1 sl st
= 1 dc

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 139-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (63)

Sandra 05.07.2019 - 13:51:

Hallo. Tut mir leid aber ich verstehe die Abnahme leider immer noch nicht.... in der ersten Abnahmerunde mit fm oder stb nehme ich 16 Maschen ab indem ich jede 8. Masche überspringe. In der zweiten Abnahmerunde sofern diese fm oder stb sind nehme ich ebenso wieder 16 Maschen auf die gleiche Weise ab und häkel dreimal zwischen den Abnahmen eine Masche weniger usw. Ist das korrekt?

DROPS Design 05.07.2019 kl. 14:09:

Liebe Sandra, also ja 16 M werden so abgenommen aber in jeder 2. Runde noch 3 Mal un dann in jeder Runde 3 Mal - bei der 2. Abnahmenrunde überspringen Sie jede 7. Masche, dann bei der 3. Abnahmenrunde überspringen Sie jede 6. Masche usw. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Sandra 01.07.2019 - 15:01:

Hallo. Ich hab eine Frage zur Abnahme am Hut oben. In der Anleitung steht jede 8 Masche überspringen bis es 116 Maschen sind und dann drei Mal in jeder. Heißt hier jede 2. Runde die Runde des Musters? Also 4 lm eine fm überspringen usw? Und dreimal heißt dann 48 Maschen abnehmen? Vielen Dank.

DROPS Design 01.07.2019 kl. 15:30:

Liebe Sandra, die Abnahmen werden nur entweder auf eine Runde mit fM oder auf eine mit nur Stb (=wenn Sie dann in jeder Runde abnehmen, bei der 2. Reihe im Muster die Abnahmen so anpassen, daß Sie 2 M anstatt 1 M überspringen). Wenn es nur 16 M bleiben, übespringen Sie alle 2. Masche. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Sonia I Pizarro 10.01.2019 - 20:35:

Ok, I feel very confused with the furst section of the patterm. It says to do a sc in each dc, but it does not said how to begin, or how many chains and how many dc you have to make to start. Reading in the comments I found that you explain to do 24 stitches. So I have a couple of questions: Does this mean that the first row od dc does not count towards tne 10”x10” square? So this first 6 rows it’s only for the purpose of gauge measuring?

DROPS Design 11.01.2019 kl. 09:17:

Dear Mrs Pizarro, the pattern does start with HAT (the informations before are just some further explanations to the pattern). You first crochet a total of 8 squares (square-1 and 2) work them into a circle and then crochet first the crown of hat (bottom up) and finally the brim. For your gauge, 1 square should be approx. 2½" x 2½" and 24 sts x 16 rows in pattern (= 1 row sc, 1 row dc) = 4"x4". Happy crocheting!

Dianne 14.08.2015 - 03:38:

Both the yarn and pattern are lovely to work with, however, now that I am almost done (measured and counted frequently) I have some size issues, so want to clarify a few sections. Crown: dec 16 sts evenly by skipping every 8th stitch - am I literally skipping the 8th stitch or is is a 2tog decrease. My brim was not as illustrated, it is completely flopped downward and I cannot see what I have done wrong.

DROPS Design 14.08.2015 kl. 10:06:

Dear Dianne, you have to skip litterally every 8th st to dec 16 sts evenly. Remember to check and keep your gauge (24 sts x 16 rows in pattern) = 10 x 10 cm. Happy crocheting!

Julia 13.07.2015 - 18:38:

Please explain what is required to obtain the necessary tension/ gauge for this pattern - 24sts x 16 rows (confused by this part of the instructions). Thank you. Julia

DROPS Design 27.07.2015 kl. 11:21:

Dear Julia, work the 6 rows in pattern (see at the beg of the pattern) over 24 sts for 16 rows, this should measure 10 x 10 cm (4" x 4"). Happy crocheting!

Mariangeles 22.06.2015 - 15:56:

Cuál es el truco para que el ala del sombrero tenga forma? y que además se quede levantada?

DROPS Design 24.06.2015 kl. 10:27:

Hola Mariangeles, puedes trabajar los pts del ala con más tensión y usar laca de pelo para darle un poco de forma.

Jette 15.06.2015 - 15:30:

Hvis man skal hækle 8 firkanter af 6 cm, kan omkredsen på hatten kun blive 48 cm , det er da til et meget lille hovede. Er det en fejl ? Det ville passe mere til en voksen hvis de skulle være 7 cm . Lidt surt når man har hæklet dem.

DROPS Design 16.06.2015 kl. 15:48:

Hej Jette. Hatten skal sidde lidt stramt for ikke at falde af, saa derfor er omkredsen altid mindre end hovedet selv - og garnet giver sig ogsaa. Men er den for lille til dig, saa kan du tilpasse saa det passer dig bedre.

Renate Grohmann 15.08.2012 - 19:54:

Der Hut ist wunderschön. Wie hält die Form. Mit was wird der Hut gestärkt? Dankeschön für Ihren Tipp.

Wil Jonker 03.06.2012 - 12:03:

Bij het minderen van een vaste, gaat het precies hetzelfde, maar dan meteen door drie lussen. Mooier resultaat !

Wil Jonker 03.06.2012 - 12:00:

Het valt mij op, dat jullie altijd met haken gaatjes maken met minderen. Ik heb geleerd om b.v. met een stokje een omslag om de haaknaald, dan in de steek steken en een lus ophalen en meteen in de volgende steek steken en een lus ophalen en dan omslaan en niet door twee, maar door drie halen en dan gewoon weer door twee. Zo heb je een mindering gemaakt zonder een lusje van de vorige toer over te slaan.

DROPS Design 04.06.2012 kl. 13:40:

Bedankt voor de tip. Het is natuurlijk altijd mogelijk om te haken of breien op de manier dat men zelf het prettigst of mooist vindt.

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