DROPS / 139 / 12

Sunbeam by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no R-616
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm / 31½''-34 5/8''-37¾''-41¾''-46½''-51''
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-700-750 g color no 47, orange

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2or3 – for garter st.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 522: 7 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. 1st row = RS.

BUTTON HOLES:
Bind off for button holes on right band from RS. 1 button hole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front, then make 1 YO. Bind off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 3, 10, 16, 23, 30, 37 and 43 cm /
1 1/8",4",6 1/4",9",11 3/4",14½" and 17".
SIZE M: 3, 10, 17, 24, 31, 38 and 44 cm /
1 1/8",4",6 3/4",9½",12 1/4",15" and 17 1/4".
SIZE L: 3, 10, 17, 24, 31, 38 and 45 cm /
1 1/8",4",6 3/4",9½",12 1/4",15" and 17 3/4".
SIZE XL: 3, 11, 18, 25, 32, 39 and 46 cm /
1 1/8",4 3/8",7",9 3/4",12½",15 1/4" and 18".
SIZE XXL: 3, 11, 18, 25, 32, 40 and 47 cm /
1 1/8",4 3/8",7",9 3/4",12½",15 3/4" and 18½".
SIZE XXXL: 3, 11, 18, 26, 33, 41 and 48 cm /
1 1/8",4 3/8",7",10 1/4",13",16 1/8" and 19".
(NOTE: bind off for last button hole when only 2 rows remain before neck dec.)
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 86-94-102-114-126-138 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Muskat. Work 10 rows in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work as follows (seen from RS): 6 sts in garter st, diagram M.1A (= 3 sts), diagram M.1B until 9 sts remain, diagram M.1C and 6 sts in garter st.
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st in each side by K tog the next to last 2 sts in garter st in each side. Repeat dec every 4 cm / 1½'' 3 more times = 78-86-94-106-118-130 sts (there are now only 2 sts in garter st in each side).
When piece measures 20 cm / 8'', inc 1 st in each side by working 2 sts in next to last st in garter st in each side. Repeat inc every 4 cm / 1½'' 3 more times (work the inc sts in garter st) = 86-94-102-114-126-138 sts (there are now 6 sts in garter st in each side again).
When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm / 14¼''-14½''-15''-14 1/4''-15¾''-16 1/8'', bind off 1 st in each side for armholes = 84-92-100-112-124-136 sts.
Then work diagram M.1 with 5 sts in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'', bind off the middle 30-30-30-34-38-42 sts for neck on next row from WS. Finish each shoulder (= 27-31-35-39-43-47 sts) separately - continue pattern as follows:
LEFT SHOULDER (seen from RS): Diagram M.1A (towards neck), diagram M.1B until 8 sts remain, diagram M.1C and 5 sts in garter st towards armhole. When piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'', bind off all sts from WS.
RIGHT SHOULDER: Work as follows (seen from RS): 5 sts in garter st towards armhole, diagram M.1A, diagram M.1B until 3 sts remain, diagram M.1C (towards neck). Bind off when at the same length as left shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 50-54-58-62-70-78 sts (includes 1 edge st in the side and 6 band sts towards mid front) on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Muskat.
Work 10 rows in garter st. Switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work as follows (seen from RS): 6 band sts in garter st, diagram M.1A, diagram M.1B until 9 sts remain, diagram M.1C and 6 sts in garter st.
Continue like this - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'', beg to bind off for BUTTON HOLES – see explanation above!
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', beg dec in the side as on back piece and when piece measures 20 cm / 8'', beg inc in the side as on back piece.
After all dec and inc there are 50-54-58-62-70-78 sts on the needle. When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm / 14¼''-14½''-15''-14 1/4''-15¾''-16 1/8'', bind off 1 st in the side for armhole = 49-53-57-61-69-77 sts. Continue diagram M.1 with 5 sts in garter st towards the side and 6 sts in garter st towards mid front.
When piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm / 17 1/4''-17 3/4''-18''-18½''-19''-19 1/4'', slip the 12-12-12-12-16-20 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck (work them first).
Then bind off at beg of every row from neck: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times = 27-31-35-39-43-47 sts remain on shoulder.
Continue pattern as follows (seen from RS):
Diagram M.1A (towards neck), diagram M.1B until 8 sts remain, diagram M.1C and 5 sts in garter st (towards armhole).
Bind off all sts from WS when piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right piece but reversed. Work the shoulder as follows (seen from RS): 5 sts in garter st (towards armhole), diagram M.1A, diagram M.1B until 3 sts remain, diagram M.1C (towards neck).

SLEEVE:
Cast on 56-56-56-60-60-64 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Muskat. Work 10 rows in garter st. Switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work as follows (seen from RS): 1 st in garter st, diagram M.1A, diagram M.1B until 4 sts remain, diagram M.1C and 1 st in garter st.
Continue like this.
When piece measures 9 cm / 3½'', inc 1 st in each side which is worked in garter st. Repeat inc every 4-3-2½-2½-2-2 cm / 1½"-1 1/8"-7/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4" a total of 11-13-15-15-17-17 times (work the inc sts in garter st) = 78-82-86-90-94-98 sts.
When piece measures 51-50-49-47-45-43 cm / 20"-19 3/4"-19 1/4"-18½"-17 3/4"-17" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), bind off all sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

NECK EDGE: Pick up approx. 90 to 120 sts around the neck on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Muskat (including sts on stitch holders at the front).
K 3 rows back and forth, bind off with K.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in sleeves and sew under arm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= 1 double YO (= 2 YOs) between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= work as follows from WS: K 1 in front loop of first YO and K 1 in back loop of second YO
= slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 139-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (36)

Bree 27.02.2019 - 09:42:

Wie lese ich die Gesamtlänge? Sind das 54 cm insgesamt (Grösse S) oder 54 cm plus 18 cm, also 72 cm Gesamtlänge?

DROPS Design 27.02.2019 kl. 11:06:

Liebe Bree, die Gesamtlänge ist 54 cm (Grösse S), dh 36 cm bis zum Armloch + 18 cm vom Armloch bis Schulter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Greta Lamberts 09.05.2016 - 18:04:

Vraag over patroon 139-12 (S) telpatroon is ingedeeld in A B en C. M1b herhaal je 8,5 maal hoe maak je dan in de 3de naald (goede kant) de kruising vd 3de st v M1a en de 1ste st v M1b in de herhalingen van M1b? hetzelfe met de kruising vd 8ste st v M1b met de 1st st v M1c. En wat met de dubbele omslagen in nld 5 (goede kant)? kan u mij helpen aub

DROPS Design 10.05.2016 kl. 15:43:

Hoi Greta. Het patroon is hetzelfde over de hele nld, en je gaat in de derde nld dan alleen even 1 st eerder "beginnen" met M.1B en C. Dus, brei M.1A over 2 st, dan brei je de kruising en herhaalt over x antaal st tot aan het einde (M.1C) en breit de "kruising" (en hebt 2 st over in M.1C ipv 3) en breit deze zoals aangegeven.

Herve Catherine 18.04.2016 - 14:11:

Modele : Sunbeam by DROPS Design Je ne comprends pas à quoi correspond "jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 9 mailles" lors du montage des mailles du dos. je ne réussis pas à tomber sur les 86mailles : 2*6 + 5*14=82 ! Merci

DROPS Design 18.04.2016 kl. 14:33:

Bonjour Mme Herve, en taille S, on a 86 m que l'on tricote ainsi: 6 m point mousse, 3 m de M.1A, puis on répète 8 fois et demi les 8 m de M.1B ainsi: 8 fois les 8 m de M.1B puis 1 fois les 4 premières m de M.1B, il reste 9 m que l'on tricote ainsi: 3 m de M.1C et 6 m point mousse. Bon tricot!

Nina 31.01.2016 - 22:53:

Das Muster sieht bei mir nicht genau gleich aus, irgendetwas scheine ich nicht richtig zu machen. Liest man das Diagramm Hinreihe von links nach rechts, Rückreihe von rechts nach links? Danke.

DROPS Design 03.02.2016 kl. 20:08:

Nein, Sie lesen Strickschriften grundsätzlich immer genau umgekehrt: Die Hin-R von rechts nach links und die Rück-R von links nach rechts, Sie beginnen ganz unten und arbeiten nach oben.

Eva Petersson 02.11.2015 - 13:10:

Hej! Jag har stickat denna underbara kofta till min dotter som blev förtjust i den.Jag måste bara påpeka att garnmängden som angivits på mönstret måste vara fel eftersom jag fick köpa till fyra mystan till för att det skulle räcka.Jag stickade storlek m.Jag har använt storlek på stickor som står på beskrivningen.Hälsningar Eva.

Brigitta Studer 25.10.2015 - 11:03:

Stricke die schöne Jacke im original Garn, Muskat Nr. 51, mit den angegebenen Stärken der Stricknadeln! Das Garn reicht aber nicht aus. habe gerade noch 2 1/2 Knäuel für die langen Aermel! Danke für eine rasche Antwort. Grüsse

DROPS Design 05.11.2015 kl. 12:11:

Antwort siehe unten!

Brigitta Studer 25.10.2015 - 11:00:

Wie kann ich kurze Aermel stricken? bitte geben Sie mir schnell Bescheid. Danke

DROPS Design 05.11.2015 kl. 12:10:

Antwort siehe unten!

Studer Brigitta 25.10.2015 - 10:59:

Wie kann ich kurze Aermel stricken?

DROPS Design 05.11.2015 kl. 12:10:

Antwort siehe unten!

Brigitta Studer 25.10.2015 - 10:56:

Mir reicht die Menge Garn wohl nicht welches Sie für Grösse S angegeben haben! Für die Aermel habe ich nun nur noch 2 1/2 Knäuel, was wohl nicht reichen wird! Was mache oder habe ich falsch gemacht? Grüsse

DROPS Design 05.11.2015 kl. 12:10:

Haben Sie die Maschenprobe genau eingehalten? Das ist immer wichtig, damit die Garnmenge reicht. Für kürzere Ärmel müssten Sie etwas rechnen, Sie können ja anhand der Zunahmen ausrechnen, bei welcher Ärmellänge wie viele Maschen vorhanden sind. Dann messen Sie, wie viel Ärmellänge Sie kürzen möchten und beginnen mit der Maschenzahl, die in etwa für diese Stelle zutrifft. Die 5 Krausrippen als Ärmelblende stricken Sie dann ebenfalls.

Esther 13.08.2014 - 21:38:

Haben Sie einen Tipp wie ich die Ärmel am einfachsten annähen kann?

DROPS Design 15.08.2014 kl. 11:52:

Liebe Esther, stecken Sie die Ärmel erst mit Stecknadeln fest, damit die Ärmel an der richtigen Stelle sitzen, achten Sie dabei darauf, dass die untere Ärmelnaht in die Seitennaht übergeht. Dann arbeiten Sie die Naht möglichst flach, d.h. Sie stechen in die äußeren M-Glieder ein.

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