DROPS / 139 / 34

Holly by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Paris”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no W-433
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 86-94-102-114-126-138 cm / 34"-37"-40"-45"-49½"-54 1/4"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
Color no 38, raspberry:
200-200-250-250-300-300 g
Color no 17, off white:
200-200-250-250-300-300 g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 14 sts x 25 rows with pattern = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4.5 mm / US 7 (60 cm / 24'') - for rib

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS, NO 522 (20 mm):
7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. NOTE: All edge sts are worked in garter st.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. The diagram shows both rows in the pattern seen from RS.

STRIPES:
Work * 10 rows off white, 10 rows raspberry *. Repeat from *-*.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by picking up the strand between 2 sts from previous row - K this st twisted, i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes. NOTE: Work inc sts in stockinette st until they can be worked in pattern in each side.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 70-76-82-94-102-110 sts with raspberry on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work rib (K 1/P 1) with 1 edge st in garter st - Read explanation above - in each side for 4 cm / 1½''. NOTE: On last row from WS, dec 8-8-8-12-12-12 sts evenly = 62-68-74-82-90-98 sts. Then switch to needle size 5 mm / US 8 and off white - At the same time work diagram M.1 and STRIPES - Read explanation above - with 1 edge st in each side. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm / 14½''-15''-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½'', insert a marker in each side of piece (armholes beg here).
Continue to work until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''. Now bind off the middle 18-20-22-22-24-26 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Bind off 2 sts at beg of next row from neck = 20-22-24-28-31-34 sts remain on the shoulder.
Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 36-40-42-48-52-56 sts with raspberry on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work rib K 1/P 1 with 1 edge st in each side for 4 cm / 1½''. NOTE: On last row from WS, dec 4-4-4-6-6-6 sts evenly = 32-36-38-42-46-50 sts.
Then switch to needle size 5 mm / US 8 and off white - At the same time work diagram M.1 and STRIPES with 1 edge st in each side.
Then work as on back piece until piece measures 43-45-46-48-49-51 cm / 17"-17 3/4"-18"-19"-19 1/4"-20". Bind off at the beg of every row from neck (= every other row) as follows: bind off 6-7-7-8-7-8 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, and 1 st 1-1-1-1-2-2 times.
Then bind off 1 st at beg of every other row from neck a total of 3-4-4-3-4-4 times = 20-22-24-28-31-34 sts remain on shoulder.
Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 38-40-42-46-48-50 sts with raspberry on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work rib K 1/P 1 with 1 edge st in each side for 4 cm / 1½''. NOTE: On last row from WS, dec 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts evenly = 30-32-34-36-38-40 sts.
Then switch to needle size 5 mm / US 8 and off white - AT THE SAME TIME work diagram M.1 and STRIPES.
When piece measures 5 cm / 2'', inc 1 st - Read INCEREASE TIP above - inside 1 edge st in each side.
Repeat inc every 2½- 2½-2½-2-2-1½ cm / 7/8"-7/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-½" a total of 10-10-10-12-12-12 times = 50-52-54-58-60-64 sts.
Continue until piece measures 34-33-32-30-29-28 cm / 13½"-13"-12½"-11 3/4"-11 3/8"-11" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Loosely bind off all sts. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams from RS with stitches. Sew in sleeves between markers in each side inside 1 edge st. Sew sleeve and side seams in one.

RIGHT BAND:
Worked in rib back and forth on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with raspberry. Pick up from RS approx. 70 to 90 sts inside 1 edge st along the edge mid front on right front piece.
P next row from WS while at the same time adjusting no of sts to 70-70-70-81-88-88. On next row (= RS) work rib (K 1/P 1) - AT THE SAME TIME bind off for button holes as follows: Work 4 sts, * bind off the next 2 sts, work 9-9-9-9-10-10 sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 6-6-6-7-7-7 times.
On next row cast on 2 new sts over the bind off sts. Continue until band measures approx. 2 cm / 3/4'', loosely bind off with K over K and P and P.

LEFT BAND:
Work as right band but without button holes.

NECK EDGE:
Work around the neck with raspberry on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 as follows: Pick up from RS approx. 90 to 120 sts inside 1 edge st around the neck (also over bands in each side). P next row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 91-95-101-107-111-115.
On next row work rib (K 1/P 1) from RS, AT THE SAME TIME bind off for last button hole as follows: Work 4 sts, bind off the next 2 sts, work rib the rest of row, finish with K 1.
On next row cast on 2 new sts over the bound off sts. Continue until neck edge measures approx. 2 cm / 3/4'', loosely bind off with K over K and P and P.
Sew the buttons on to the left band.



Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= From RS: K 2 tog. From WS: P 2 tog
= 1 YO between 2 sts

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 139-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

Annette Strömgård 05.09.2019 - 18:53:

Det står att alla varv är räta ,men sen att man ska sticka avigt på avigan ?

Dawn Platel 23.03.2015 - 15:44:

I find the pattern confusing as it shows the pattern from the right side, so if you end the right side with YO, K2tog then K your edge stitch. when you turn the work around. You then knit your edge stitch but have an additional stitch before you can start the pattern. What are you supposed to do with the additional stitch Knit or Purl? Or is it Knit from RS and Purl from WS?

DROPS Design 23.03.2015 kl. 16:06:

Dear Mrs Platel, if you choose to work this pattern in the round, it will always worked the same way, ie K2 tog, but the yo will be made before k2 tog on Row 1 and after K2 tog on row 2. The video below shows how to work this pattern back and forth, as in the pattern. (all YO's in diagram compensate the decreases = number of sts should be constant). Happy knitting!

Nashwaahmed 23.05.2014 - 17:49:

After i finished the back it turned out to be a little bit tilted or the stripes are bit inclined although i knitted each strip of 10 rows of pattern so what's the problem ?

DROPS Design 26.05.2014 kl. 08:49:

Dear Mrs Nashwaahmed, it is very important to keep a constant nber of sts. We have a video showing how to work this kind of lace pattern:

Eva 15.09.2013 - 21:39:

Under ärmen på diagrammet som vanligt!

Heddi 15.09.2013 - 20:25:

Förstår inte mönstret på 139-34. Finns inte utritat på modellen hur hålmönstret ska stickas.

DROPS Design 18.09.2013 kl. 14:53:

Jo då och det finns även en video som visar mönstret:

Basic lace pattern: 1 yo, K 2 tog from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Em 30.05.2013 - 01:45:

Hab mir inzwischen Muster M2 von Modell 130-11 herausgesucht und nehme das als Muster, schaue mir aber das Video noch an und versuche dann noch einmal eine Maschenprobe.

Em 30.05.2013 - 01:42:

Hi! Danke fuer die Antwort, hab immer auf die Maschenanzahl geachtet und auch mit Umschlag begonnen, etc. Ich habs dann noch damit probiert, ab der Haelfte der Hinreihe nicht 2 Maschen zusammenzustricken, sondern 1 Masche rechts abheben, 1 Masche abstricken, abgehobene Masche ueberziehen. Dann wurde es gerade und hat nicht auf eine Seite gezogen, aber die beiden Haelften haben mir fuer meinen Geschmack dann zu unterschiedlich ausgesehen.

Em 29.05.2013 - 00:27:

Das Muster "zieht" leider auf eine Seite, hab nach dem halben Rueckenteil aufgegeben.

DROPS Design 29.05.2013 kl. 08:06:

Liebe Em, es ist ganz wichtig, dass die Maschenzahl konstant bleibt und dass Sie in der Hin-R mit dem Umschlag beginnen. Wir haben ein Instruktionsvideo dazu, das das Prinzip an ähnlichen Mustern zeigt:

Sandra 02.03.2013 - 14:13:

Lo he hecho y sienta muy bien. Un punto muy lucido!!!

Trine 23.09.2012 - 10:18:

Opskrift 139-34 Når jeg strikker ifølge opskriften bliver arbejdet skævt. Dvs. ryggen set fra retten bliver 1 maske mindre i højre side og 1 maske større i venstre side. Maskeantallet bliver korrekt ved de 74 (large). Hvad gør jeg forkert?

DROPS Design 04.12.2012 kl. 12:20:

Sørg for at omslagen ikke ligger lige oven over hinanden, de skal ligge forskudt i zigzag.

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