DROPS / 135 / 24

Margot by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with shawl collar in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Sizes S to XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-577
Yarn group A

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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-98-108-118-128-138 cm / 34½”-38½”-42½”-46½”-50½”-54¼”
Full length: 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾’’-27½’’-28 3/8’’-29 1/8’’-30’’-30¾’’

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Color no 9020m, light pearl gray:
300-350-350-400-450-500 g
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
Color no 01, off white:
125-150-150-175-200-225 g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES 5.5 mm / US 9 – or size needed to get 18 sts x 24 rows in pattern with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 – diagram shows pattern from RS.

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FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 94-105-115-126-136-147 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk. Work as follows (from RS): * K 3, K 2 tog, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3-0-3-0-3-0 sts remain, K these sts = 81-90-99-108-117-126 sts.
Work next row from WS as follows: K 1 edge st * P 1, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, P 1 and K 1 edge st.
Then work diagram M.1 over all sts, with 1 edge st in each side worked K on all rows (diagram M.1 starts and ends with 1 K st, seen from RS, before edge st in each side).
When piece measures approx. 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm / 19’’-19¼’’-19¾’’-20’’-20½’’-21’’, work next row as follows from RS: bind off 4 sts for armhole, work 26-30-34-38-42-46 sts in diagram M.1 as before (= left front piece), bind off 21-22-23-24-25-26 sts for neck, and work the rest of row in diagram M.1 as before (= 30-34-38-42-46-50 sts).
Turn and bind off 4 sts for armhole, work the rest of row, = 26-30-34-38-42-46 sts remain on right front piece. Slip sts in the left side on a stitch holder.

RIGHT SIDE:
Continue to work diagram M.1 over sts on needle, while at the same time casting/binding off for armhole at the beg of every row from the side: 3 sts 0-0-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 0-1-1-2-2-3 times and 1 st 2-3-3-4-4-5 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 54-55-56-57-58-59 cm / 21¼’’-21 5/8’’-22’’-22½’’-22¾’’-23¼’’, dec 1 st towards the neck, repeat dec when piece measures 60-61-62-63-64-65 cm / 23 5/8’’-24’’-24 3/8’’-24¾’’-25¼’’-25½’’.
After all bind offs and dec are done, 22-23-24-25-26-27 sts remain on needle. Bind off when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾’’-27½’’-28 3/8’’-29 1/8’’-30’’-30¾’’.

LEFT SIDE:
Slip the stitches on the stitch holder back on needle and work as right side but reversed.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on and work as on front piece until piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm / 19’’-19¼’’-19¾’’-20’’-20½’’-21’’. Now bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 0-0-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 0-1-1-2-2-3 times and 1 st 2-3-3-4-4-5 times = 69-72-75-78-81-84 sts.
When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26’’-26¾’’-27½’’-28 3/8’’-29 1/8’’-30’’, bind off the middle 25-26-27-28-29-30 sts for neck.
Work each shoulder (= 22-23-24-25-26-27 sts) separately until piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾’’-27½’’-28 3/8’’-29 1/8’’-30’’-30¾’’, bind off.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 57-57-60-60-63-66 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk. K 1 row from RS while at the same time dec 6 sts evenly = 51-51-54-54-57-60 sts. Work next row from WS as follows: K 1 edge st * P 1, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, finish with P 1 and K 1 edge st. Then work diagram M.1 over all sts, with 1 edge st in each side worked K on all rows. (Diagram M.1 starts and ends with K 1, seen from RS, before edge st in each side.)
When piece measures 11-11-11-13-13-13 cm / 4½”-4½”-4½”-5”-5”-5”, inc 1 st in each side inside edge st. Repeat inc every 4-4-4-2½-2½-2½ cm / 1½”-1½”-1½”-7/8”-7/8”-7/8” a total of 9-9-9-12-12-12 times = 69-69-72-78-81-84 sts – work the inc sts gradually in diagram M.1. When piece measures 47-46-45-44-43-42 cm / 18½’’-18’’-17¾’’-17¼’’-17’’-16½’’ (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders) bind off at beg of every row in each side: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 2-4-5-6-8-9 times. Then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 54 cm / 21¼”, then bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Bind off, the piece measures approx. 55 cm / 21½” in all sizes.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Beg mid front on left side of sts bind off for neck. Pick up on circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk: 38 to 45 sts up to shoulder, then pick up 26 to 32 sts in the back of neck, and finally 38 to 45 sts down along left side of neck dec = 102 to 122 sts (do not pick up sts where sts were dec in front of neck).
K 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc no of sts to 128-134-140-146-152-158. Then work rib as follows (from RS): 2 sts worked K on all rows, * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1 and 2 sts worked K on all rows. Continue like this until collar measures approx. 5 cm / 2’’. Now inc 1 st on each side of the middle 12 P-sections, seen from RS (= back of neck) = 140-146-152-158-164-170 sts.
Continue with K over K and P over P until collar measures approx. 11-11-12-12-13-13 cm / 4 3/8’’-4 3/8’’-4¾’’-4¾’’-5 1/8’’-5 1/8’’ - adjust so that next row is from RS. Work 4 rows in stockinette st over all sts, then bind off all sts with K from RS. The outermost edge is supposed to roll.
Place the collar double (right side over left side) at the bottom of neck opening and sew it to the neck line through both layers.

MORE ASSEMBLY:
Sew in sleeves and sew under arm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 135-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (39)

Silvia 22.09.2019 - 13:13:

Grazie mille x la risposta

Silvia 22.09.2019 - 12:23:

Non capisco un passaggio del colletto a scialle....ora aum.1 m. Ai lati delle 12 sezioni centrali a rov. ,Viste dal diritto del lav., Non capisco quali sono le 12 sezioni centrali a rov.....grazie per la spiegazione

DROPS Design 22.09.2019 kl. 13:04:

Buongiorno Silvia. Le coste sono 2 m rov, 1 m dir. Deve individuare i 12 gruppi di 2 m lavorate a rovescio, al centro sul dietro del collo e in questi gruppi aumenta una maglia. In questo punto, le coste diventano 3 m rov , 1 m dir. Buon lavoro!

Karen Jarrett 23.04.2018 - 03:26:

I am at the SHAWL COLLAR and am having trouble. I understand what to do until the final “38-45 sts". I do not understand “do not knit up where sts were dec in front of neck". What does 12 P-sections mean?

DROPS Design 23.04.2018 kl. 10:05:

Dear Mrs Jarret, when picking up sts for shawl collar, you will not pick up sts in the 21-22-23-24-25-26 sts cast off for neck on mid front, just start picking up sts on mid front on left side of these cast off sts to the left front piece before these cast off sts. When working rib you will work K1/P2, you will then inc in the middle 12 sections worked with P2 ('=there will be P3 a total of 12 times and P2 before/after as before). Happy knitting!

Karen Jarrett 10.03.2018 - 01:08:

So sorry about my previous question. After looking the pattern up online I noticed the DIAGRAM M.1 next to the lay out of the pattern.

Karen Jarrett 10.03.2018 - 01:04:

This pattern says to see diagram M.1 All I have is the Diagram explanations but no actual picture of the diagram. Please help as I have purchased the yarn and would like to get started on this project.

Elaine Bird 24.03.2017 - 16:56:

What size in cms or inches are S - M -L etc? cheers

DROPS Design 24.03.2017 kl. 17:20:

Dear Mrs Bird, you will find at the bottom of the page a measurement chart with all measurements for each size in cm, taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Read more about sizing and convert into inches if needed here. Happy knitting!

Diana 23.11.2015 - 16:46:

All right, I think understand now. But in this case the zero stitch is still meaningless at the beginning as I pointed at the first time.

DROPS Design 24.11.2015 kl. 09:48:

Dear Diana, in some sizes (= M + XL + XXXL), you will work to the end of row (= 0 sts), but in other sizes (= S + L + XXL) you will have to finish with K3. Happy knitting!

Diana 23.11.2015 - 13:08:

I'm sorry, but in the description you wrote 4 sts on each side one time that is 8. Where did you get the 15?

DROPS Design 23.11.2015 kl. 13:55:

Dear Diana, that's correct, you cast off for armholes on each side : 1 x 4 sts (= a total of 8 sts) + 1 x 2 sts (= a total of 2 sts) + 3 x 1 st (= a total of 3 sts) = 9 sts x 2 sides = a total of 18 cast off. The first 15 sts are dec on very 1st row when working *K3, K2 tog, K2* accross. Happy knitting!

Diana 22.11.2015 - 19:40:

Has anyone ever checked the calculations in the description? About the back part for example? It's totally wrong. As well as the whole pattern. E.g.: 105-(2*4)-(2*2)-(4*1)=89, not 72 for size M.

DROPS Design 23.11.2015 kl. 11:14:

Dear Diana, in size M you cast on 105 sts but dec 15 sts on 1st row = 90 sts remain, then cast off for armhole )1 x 4 sts + 1 x 2 sts + 3 x 1 st) = 9 sts x 2 sides = 18 dec. 90 - 18 = 72 sts. Happy knitting!

Diana 19.11.2015 - 21:07:

I'm sorry but I don't understand either the losing of stitches. According to the description you knit only two rows at the beginning then follow with pattern M1 (which also does not make any sense either). What about the lost stitches? What do you mean by having only zero or three stitches on the needle? Could you please explain? Or is there a mistake in the translation?

DROPS Design 20.11.2015 kl. 09:55:

Dear Diana, on first row worked from RS you dec sts evenly working *K3, K2 tog, K2* accross until 0-3 sts remain (depending on the size worked ie number of sts on needle), K the last 3 sts if your size is concerned. Then work next row from WS with 1 st in garter st on each side (as a set up row), and continue working in M.1, starting and ending with K1 from RS inside 1 edge st in garter st. Happy knitting!

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