DROPS / 131 / 47

Rosebud by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS hat and neck warmer in garter st with cable in ”Snow”.

DROPS design: Pattern no EE-392-393
Yarn group E
--------------------------------------------------------
Hat:
Size: S - M - L
To fit head circumference: approx. 54-56-58 cm / 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"

Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in color no 08, red

Neck warmer:
Size: One-size
Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
200 g color no 08, red

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 3.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Snow print DROPS Snow print 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

KNITTING TIP:
Every time piece is turned in the middle of piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten the yarn and return, this is done to avoid holes where work is turned.
--------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 32-33-34 sts on needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Snow. 1st row (= from RS) begins at bottom edge of hat. Work diagram M.1 (= 12 sts), then work in GARTER ST -see explanation above - out towards the top of the hat. Continue like this while AT THE SAME TIME working short rows starting from RS - read KNITTING TIP: * Work back and forth over all sts. Work 29 sts, turn piece and work back. Work 23 sts, turn piece and work back *. Repeat from *-* until piece measures approx. 52-54-56 cm / 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4" (at the widest). Bind off all sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew hat tog mid back. Sew edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts to avoid a chunky seam. Tighten tog sts at the top and fasten the yarn end tightly.


NECK WARMER:
The piece is worked back and forth on needle and sewn together afterwards. The whole piece is worked in diagram M.1 and garter st.
Cast on 38 sts on needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Snow. Now work as follows - read KNITTING TIP: * Work diagram M.1 (= 12 sts), turn piece and work back in M.1. Work M.1, then work 4 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above (= 16 sts in total), turn piece and work back in garter st and M.1.
Work 4 rows over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME continuing first 12 sts in M.1 and remaining sts in garter st *. Repeat from *-* until piece measures approx. 46 cm / 18'' at the top around neck, finish after one complete repetition of diagram. Bind off all sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts to avoid a chunky and visible seam. Fold down the neck.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= put 4 sts on cable needle behind work, K4, K4 from cable needle
= put 4 sts on cable needle in front of work, K4, K4 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 131-47) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (66)

Patricia Millán 15.08.2020 - 21:43:

Hola buenas tardes, quiero saber que número de palitos de tejer debo usar para lana de 3 hebras. Gracias

Patricia Millán 15.08.2020 - 21:27:

Hola buenas tardes, quiero saber que número de palitos de tejer debo usar para lana de 3 hebras. Gracias

Gourmpelen 11.10.2019 - 07:56:

Bonjour j ai reussi a faire mon premier rang en regardantla vidéo j ai donc 12 mailles pour la torsade et 26 mailles en point mousse j aimerai savoir ou et a quel moment je fais les rangs raccourcis sur ces 26 mailles je n ai jamais fait de rangs raccourci mais j ai visualise les vidéos et j ai bien compris le principe j ai acheté votre laine alors j aimerai bien reussir ce joli modele merci

DROPS Design 11.10.2019 kl. 09:29:

Bonjour Mme Gourmelen, vous tricotez les rangs raccourcis dès le 1er rang du tour de cou, comme détaillé dans la réponse précédente. Pour que le tour de cou soit plus large en bas (côté torsade) qu'en haut (côté cou), on tricote tous les rangs les mailles de la torsade, mais on va ensuite tricoter plus ou moins de mailles au point mousse en plus. Bon tricot!

Gourmelen 09.10.2019 - 08:49:

Bonjour j ai un petit souci pour demarrer mon tour de cou on a 38 mailles je fais 12 mailles au debut puis 1 maille pour rang raccourci je tourne je refais ensuite 12 mailles +1 maille raccourci je tourne et je fais 4 mailles puis la torsade merci de m aider car j ai reussi mon chauffe epaule grace à vos conseils merci d avance

DROPS Design 09.10.2019 kl. 09:05:

Bonjour Mme Gourmelen, tricotez ainsi: *2 rangs sur les 12 premières mailles (= rangs 1 & 2 de M.1= 12 m), 2 rangs sur les 16 premières mailles (= rangs 3 & 4 de M.1 + 4 mailles point mousse= 16 m), 4 rangs sur toutes les mailles (= rangs 5 à 8 de M.1 + toutes les mailles restantes = 38 m). *, reprenez ensuite de *-* jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 46 cm côté cou (le plus court). Bon tricot!

Debbie 27.02.2019 - 00:08:

Combien doit mesurer la hauteur du tour de cou de la torsade au haut du cou car avec le nombre de mailles en point mousse, ça ne peut être rabattus pour former un col roulé. Merci pour la réponse.

DROPS Design 27.02.2019 kl. 08:55:

Bonjour Debbie, on tricote au point mousse sur 26 mailles (+ les 12 m de la torsade), on doit donc avoir environ 23 cm de mailles au point mousse - pensez à bien vérifier votre tension, vous devez avoir 11 m x 15 rangs point mousse = 10 x 10 cm. Si votre échantillon est juste, vous devriez obtenir le même résultat que sur la photo. Bon tricot!

Anita Aittomäki 05.01.2018 - 21:13:

Miksi ohjeessa ei ole tai ehkä voisi sen lisätä 1.kerros neulo ....silmukkaa (jää ....silmukkaa) ja käännä 2.kerros neulo ....silmukkaa (jää ....silmukkaa) ja käännä 3.kerros .... 4.kerros....Tai ....kerros neulo kaikki silmukat. toista kerrokset 1. 2. 3. Jne järjestyksessä Eli onko lyhennetty kerros aina ?- kuinka monessa ja monellako silmukalla se neulotaan?Palmikon teossa ei ollut ongelmaa mutta juuri tuo lyhennetty kerros

Anita Aittomäki 05.01.2018 - 21:12:

Sekava ohje.Videossa kun yritin laskeskella montako silmukkaa tehdään ja montako jäi mutta siihen 29 silmukkaan en osunut kuin ehkä kerran, joten jossain on vikaa.

DROPS Design 09.01.2018 kl. 17:52:

Hei, lyhennetyt kerrokset neulotaan seuraavasti: Neulot aluksi kaikki silmukat, käännät työn ja neulot taas kaikki silmukat. Käännät työn ja neulot 29 silmukkaa, käännät työn ja neulot nämä 29 silmukkaa. Käännät työn ja neulot 23 silmukkaa, käännät työn ja neulot nämä samat 23 silmukkaa. Nämä kerrokset toistetaan.

Paulina 30.11.2016 - 07:32:

Gracias por compartir todo lo que haces esta hermoso, quisiera saber como hacer para conseguir un video del paso a paso de tus prendas

DROPS Design 04.12.2016 kl. 18:49:

Hola Paulina. Publicamos vídeos continuamente. Aquí puedes consultar todos los vídeos que tenemos publicados a día de hoy: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?lang=es

Julia Leist-Heiermann 11.10.2016 - 21:34:

Hallo, ich möchte gerne die Rosebud-Mütze stricken und frage mich, wie ich die 7. Reihe des M1 stricke. Lege ich tatsächlich die ersten 4 Maschen auf die Zopfnadel? Wie bekomme ich denn den Faden zu den dann zuerst zu strickenden Maschen? Leider endet das Video genau vor dieser Stelle. Danke und herzliche Grüße , Julia Leist-Heiermann

DROPS Design 12.10.2016 kl. 09:35:

Liebe Frau Leis-Heiermann, bei der 7. Reihe legen Sie die 4 ersten M. auf der Zopfnadel hinter die Arbeit - passen Sie nur mal auf daß der Faden nicht zu locker nor zu eng ist, dann stricken Sie die nächste 4 M, und dann die 4 M. von der Zopfnadel.

SandraLiliana Ibarra Nuñez 06.07.2016 - 17:16:

Hola muy buenas tardes,disculpe la molestia,soy principiante en esto del tejido,pero me encanta este Modelo,me gustaría saber si cuenta con el video,pues no entiendo las abreviaciones de las indicaciones,de antemano muchísimas gracias por su atención y bendiciones. 😊

DROPS Design 12.07.2016 kl. 23:20:

Hola Sandra. Bájo éste línk tíenes las explicaciones necesarias para realizar este modelo: . Puedes encontrar más videos en el apartado Vídeos al principio del patrón.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 131-47

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.