DROPS / 128 / 35

Breaking Waves Dress by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dress with stripes and round yoke in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no CL-001
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
The dress will be somewhat longer than the measurements in the chart when worn.
Finished measurements:
Bust: 76-84-92-102-114-126 cm / 30''-33''-36 1/4''-40''-45''-49½''
Full length: 70-72-73-79-81-82 cm / 27½"-28½"-28 3/4"-31"-32"-32 1/4"

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
Color no 60, ice blue: 200-200-250-250-250-300 g
Color no 08, off white: 100-150-150-150-150-200 g
Color no 01, light blue purple: 100-100-100-100-150-150 g
Color no 61, light beige: 50-50-50-50-100-100 g
Color no 76, sky blue: 100 g in all sizes
Color no 02, light blue: 100 g in all sizes
Color no 04, lilac: 50 g in all sizes

The entire dress can be worked in Muskat from Garnstudio if desired. In that case replace CL with M as follows:
CL 08, light ice blue = M 60, ice blue
CL 01, off white = M 08, off white
CL 14, denim blue = M 02, light blue
CL 07, light lilac = M 04, purple

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle): 1 ridge = 2 rounds: * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

See diagram M.1 (zigzag pattern) - diagram shows pattern from RS. And diagram M.3 (stripes).

DECREASE TIP (applies to zigzag pattern):
See M.2 for example. All dec are done on the rounds where pattern is worked. Dec 2 sts in every repetition by working as follows: 2 sts in same st, work until 3 sts remain before the middle of repetition, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 3 tog. Work the rest of the repetition and finish by working 2 sts in the same st. On next round work as before but with 1 st less on each side of the middle.

Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

Worked in the round on circular needle. Start the round at the side. Cast on 260-286-312-338-364-390 sts on 2 circular needles size 4 mm / US 6 (to avoid a tight cast on edge) with light blue. Pull out one of the circular needles. Work 4 rounds in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work zigzag pattern following chart M.1 (10-11-12-13-14-15 repetitions) and AT THE SAME TIME work stripes following chart M.3 (repeat M.3 until piece measures 54-55-56-57-58-59 cm / 21¼''-21 5/8''-22''-22½''-22¾''-23¼''). REMEMBER THE TENSION/GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12-12-11-11-14-14 cm / 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/8"-4 3/8"-5½"-5½" from bottom tip, dec 2 sts in every repetition - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 9-9-10-10-12-12 cm / 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4" a total of 5-5-5-5-4-4 times = 160-176-192-208-252-270 sts (= 16-16-16-16-18-18 sts remain in every repetition). Continue to work until piece measures 54-55-56-57-58-59 cm / 21¼''-21 5/8''-22''-22½''-22¾''-23¼''. K 1 round with the color used on last stripe while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-12-12-6-26-18 sts evenly = 148-164-180-202-226-252 sts.
Insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 74-82-90-101-113-126 sts (markers = each side). Move the markers upwards when working. Switch to ice blue and work in stockinette st. When piece measures 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm / 3/4''-3/4''-3/4''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8'' from the start of ice blue, inc 1 st on each side of both markers in each side (= 4 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 2-2½-2½-2½-3-3 cm / 3/4"-7/8"-7/8"-7/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" a total of 3 times = 160-176-192-214-238-264 sts, now ice blue section measures 6-7-7-8-9-9 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3½"-3½". K 1 round with ice blue while AT THE SAME TIME binding off 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts in each side (i.e. 4-4-4-5-5-5 sts on each side of both markers) for armholes = 72-80-88-97-109-122 sts remain on front and back piece.
Cut the yarn, put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 60-66-69-75-78-81 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 with off white. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Work in GARTER ST for 2 cm / 3/4''. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and ice blue.
K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME binding off 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts mid under sleeve (4-4-4-5-5-5 sts on each side of marker) = 52-58-61-65-68-71 sts.
Cut the yarn, put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 as body where armholes were cast/bound off = 248-276-298-324-354-386 sts. Insert a marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in stockinette st in the round on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with ice blue.
Start round mid back!
Size S + M + L: When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', dec 34-40-40 sts evenly (tighten the yarn a little when working 2 and 2 sts tog to make dec less visible), repeat dec when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' and 6 cm / 2 3/8'' = 146-156-178 sts. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', dec 20 sts evenly = 126-136-158 sts.
Size XL + XXL + XXXL: When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', dec 40-42-44 sts evenly (tighten the yarn a little when working 2 and 2 sts tog to make dec less visible), repeat dec when piece measures 6 cm / 2½'' and 9 cm / 3½'' = 204-228-254 sts. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', dec 20 sts evenly = 184-208-234 sts.
ALL SIZES: Now work an elevation in the back of neck with ice blue as follows (work in stockinette st back and forth on needle):
Insert a marker between the middle 2 sts at the front. Start mid back and work until 20 sts remain before marker mid front, turn piece, tighten yarn and work until 20 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn piece, tighten yarn and work until 40 sts remain before marker mid front, turn piece, tighten yarn and work until 40 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn piece, tighten yarn and work until 55-60-70-80-90-100 sts remain before marker mid front, turn piece, tighten yarn and work until 55-60-70-80-90-100 sts remain before marker in the other side, turn and work until mid back.

Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 and off white and work in garter st in the round on circular needle for 2 cm / 3/4'' before loosely binding off.

Sew the openings under the sleeves.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= work 2 sts in same st
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= K 3 tog
= light blue
= light blue purple
= off white
= ice blue
= sky blue
= light beige
= lilac

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 128-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (102)

Katarzyna 01.07.2020 - 09:53:

W opisie Rekawy ile trzeba zrobic cm rekawa kolorem stalowy błekit ,jest napisane 2 cm kolorem ecru i co dalej?

DROPS Design 01.07.2020 kl. 16:20:

Witaj Kasiu, we wzorze jest napisane, aby przerabiać ściegiem francuskim kolorem ecru przez 2 cm, a po przerobieniu tych 2 cm, zacząć przerabiać na drutach pończoszniczych nr 4 już kolorem stalowy błękit. Pozdrawiamy!

Sabine 08.06.2019 - 09:05:

Wann stricke ich mit M2?

DROPS Design 11.06.2019 kl. 09:58:

Liebe Sabine, M.2 wird gestrickt, wenn man abnehmen muss - z.B. wenn die Arbeit 12-12-11-11-14-14 cm misst, wird es abgenommen, wie unter TIPP ZUM ABNEHMEN (gilt für das Zick-Zack-Muster) beschrieben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Ingrid Goin 17.02.2019 - 17:29:

Skal jeg bruke m2 hver 9 cm eller starte på igjen etter at jeg har strikket 6 omganger

DROPS Design 21.02.2019 kl. 09:58:

Hei Ingrid. Du skal gjenta fellingen på hver 9. cm. Ellers strikker du mønster som før. M.2 viser den aller første gangen du feller, men du feller på samme måte hver gang - bare at det vil være ferre masker mellom maskene du strikker 2 masker i, og fellingen på midten. Altså på hver 9 cm strikker du slik: ved å strikke slik: 2 m i samme m, strikk til det gjenstår 3 m før midten i rapporten, ta 1 m løs av p som om den skulle strikkes rett, 2 rett sammmen, løft den løse m over, etter midten strikkes 3 m rett sammen. Fortsett ut rapporten og avslutt med å strikke 2 m i samme m. God fornøyelse

Elke Hasert 23.08.2018 - 23:31:

Der Abstand im eisblauen Oberteil bis zu den Armausschnitten wird in der Anleitung mit 7cm für Größe L angegeben. Im Vergleich zum Modellfoto erscheint mir das viel zu kurz. Würden Sie mir bitte die genauen Maße mitteilen? Vielen Dank! Mit freundlichen Grüßen Elke Hasert

DROPS Design 26.08.2018 kl. 10:22:

Liebe Elke, die Maße sollten so stimmen. Die 7 cm mögen etwas kurz wirken, jedoch wird ja auch noch die Passe angestrickt, die sich beim Tragen optisch etwas nach unten zieht. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

Crina Petroianu 31.05.2018 - 15:57:

When working M1, the number of stitches is actually 24 not 26 as diagram shows, or I\'m missing something? As far as I see, in the diagram is shown 2x2 stitches ( 4) for the decreases instead of 2x1 stitches (2) as left after decrease.

DROPS Design 31.05.2018 kl. 16:05:

Dear Mrs Petroianu, M.1 is worked over 26 sts: Kfb the first st, K10, slip 1 as if to K, K1, psso, K2 tog, K10, kfb the last st = 1+10+2+2+10+1=26 sts. Happy knitting!

Helle Olsen 11.04.2018 - 20:35:

Hej...jeg kan ikke se hvornår jeg skal bruge mønster 3...har læst opskriften igennem flere gange...

DROPS Design 12.04.2018 kl. 14:20:

Hei Helle. M.3 er fargene på skjørtet, og den skal strikkes rundt samtidig som sikk-sakk mønsteret i M.1. Du begynner på både M.1 (sikk-sakk mønster) og M.3 (fargene) rett etter de 2 rillene helt på starten. God fornøyelse

Jane 06.07.2017 - 01:26:

Heisan...Is the color change supposed to be done while knitting Row 1 of M.1 when the zigzag pattern is being worked? I've been making the color changes on Row 1of M.1 and part of the "work 2 sts in same st" is visible...a "bar" of yarn because of the color change. Takk for hjelpen.

DROPS Design 06.07.2017 kl. 09:48:

Dear Jane, colour will be change when working 1st round in M.1. Happy knitting!

Sara 24.01.2017 - 03:34:

When working the M1. Do i follow the video and do the first row only with decreases? Or do i do increases also in the 1st row?

DROPS Design 24.01.2017 kl. 09:53:

Dear Sara, video is showing the technique, you have to work as shown in the diagram to the pattern, ie in M1, inc and dec on first row. Happy knitting!

Tine Faurby 09.01.2017 - 16:15:

Hej, er der ikke en uoverensstemmelse mellem listen over materialer i starten og mønsteret? Der står man skal bruge 100 g.farve 02 Lys blå, men i mønsteret er der ingen Lys blå, til gengæld er der angivet Jeansblå i mønsteret, og den er ikke i materialeliste. Hvilken er det på billedet? Kan jeg så regne med at skulle bruge 100 g. Jeansblå? Mange hilsner Tine

DROPS Design 10.01.2017 kl. 13:51:

Hej Tine. Du skal bruge farve nr. 02. Farven har aendret navn (lys blaa var mere passende). Saa bestiller du 02, faar du den rette.

Anne Poulsen 20.03.2016 - 20:54:

Hej Er der nogen som har erfaring med størrelsen? Jeg er bange for at kjolen ville blive for stram og vise alle mine deller når jeg sider ned, men den skal jo samtidig ikke ligne et telt når jeg står op. Hilsen Anne

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