DROPS 128-21
DROPS design: Pattern no TT-043
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-100-110-122-134 cm / 33"-36¼"-39⅜"-43⅜"-48"-52¾"
Full length: 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½

Materials: DROPS ICE from Garnstudio
Color no 01, white: 650-750-850-900-1000-1100 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32") size 7 mm / US 10½ - or size needed to get 12 sts x 16 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4" (and approx. 14 sts in rib = width 10 cm / 4").

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS, NO 522 (20 mm): 3 pieces


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

Bind off for button holes on right front band. 1 button hole = K 2nd and 3rd st from mid front tog, then make 1 YO.
Bind off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 30, 37, 44 cm / 11¾", 14½", 17¼"
SIZE M: 31, 38, 45 cm / 12¼", 15", 17¾"
SIZE L: 32, 39, 46 cm / 12½", 15¼", 18"
SIZE XL: 33, 40, 47 cm / 13", 15¾", 18½"
SIZE XXL: 34, 41, 48 cm / 13½", 16¼", 19"
SIZE XXXL: 35, 42, 49 cm / 13¾", 16½", 19¼"

Worked back and forth on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10½. Cast on 131-139-147-163-179-195 sts with Ice. Work 4 sts in Garter st - see explanation above, * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K 1, 4 sts in garter st. Continue rib like this with 4 sts in garter st (= front bands) in each side.
When piece measures 5 cm / 2", work next row from RS as follows: K all sts while AT THE SAME TIME dec 17-17-17-21-21-21 sts evenly = 114-122-130-142-158-174 sts. Insert 2 markers in the piece after 30-32-34-37-41-45 sts from each side (back piece = 54-58-62-68-76-84 sts).
Continue with garter st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 13-13-13-13-11-11 cm / 5⅛"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5⅛"-4⅜"-4⅜", dec 1 st (= K 2 tog) on each side of each marker (= 4 sts per dec). Repeat dec every 8-8-8-8-6-6 cm / 3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛"-2⅜"-2⅜" a total of 3-3-3-3-4-4 times = 102-110-118-130-142-158 sts. Then bind off for first button hole on right band when piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm / 11¾"-12¼"-12½"-13"-13½"-13¾" - see explanation above. When piece measures 35-35-35-36-36-36 cm / 13¾"-13¾"-13¾"-14¼"-14¼"-14¼", inc 1 st on each side of each marker (= 4 sts per inc) - see INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc one more time when piece measures 44-44-45-46-47-47 cm / 17¼"-17¼"-17¾"-18"-18½"-18½" = 110-118-126-138-150-166 sts.
Continue with garter st. When piece measures 53-54-55-56-57-58 cm / 21"-21¼"-21⅝"-22"-22½"-22¾", bind off for armholes as follows: bind off 3 sts on each side of each marker (= 6 sts in each side). Finish each piece separately.

= 46-50-54-60-66-74 sts. Continue to bind off for armholes at beg of each row in each side as follows: 3 sts 0-0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-2-2 times and 1 st 0-2-1-1-3-4 times = 42-42-44-44-46-46 sts. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾"-27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾", bind off the middle 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 15-15-15-15-15-15 sts remain on the shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½.

= 26-28-30-33-36-40 sts. Bind off for armhole in the side as on back piece. After all bind offs are done, 24-24-25-25-26-26 sts remain for shoulder. Continue with garter st vertically.
When piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½, bind off the first 15-15-15-15-15-15 sts from RS for shoulder = 9-9-10-10-11-11 sts remain for collar. Work rest of row. Continue to work short rows over the collar (beg from WS) as follows: * K back and forth over the outermost 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts, K back and forth over all sts *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx. 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm / 2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-3⅛"- 3⅛"- 3⅛" at the shortest (measured from the shoulder). Bind off.

Work as left front piece but reversed.

Sew the shoulder seams. Sew collar tog mid back and sew the neck on back piece. Sew the buttons on to the left front band.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (32)

country flag Herluison wrote:

Je voudrais remplacer drop ice par de la merino comment calculer

12.03.2022 - 11:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Herluison, vous pouvez remplacer DROPS Ice (groupe de fils E) par 2 fils du groupe C soit Big Merino par exemple. Retrouvez plus d'infos sur les alternatives ici. Rappelez-vous de bien vérifier votre échantillon; tricotez peut-être un peu plus serré si besoin (laine mérinos + point mousse). Bon tricot!

14.03.2022 - 10:13

country flag Tammy Harrison wrote:

Have you changed the pattern? Asked about this before but this just isn’t the same , at a loss

04.02.2022 - 16:05

country flag Tammy Harrison wrote:

I am very confused, I knitted this once for my daughter. But I did it in 3 pieces -back & the 2 fronts and I worked it bottom up So I am not so sure about it

28.01.2022 - 23:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Tammy, you knit this vest in one piece up to the armholes. Then you knit each piece (back, right front and left front) separately. Happy knitting!

29.01.2022 - 18:23

country flag Lene Olesen wrote:

Når nu garnet Ice er udgået, vil det være rart at vide hvor mange meter der er på 50g. Ellers kan jeg ikke regne ud hvor mange nøgler af drops safran jeg skal bruge til en str. S. Kan I hjælpe udregningen eller antal meter? På forhånd tak :-)

08.11.2020 - 21:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lene. Här hittar du alla våra Udgået kvaliteter . DRIOS Ics var 45 m per 50 g. Mvh DROPS Design

10.11.2020 - 09:59

country flag Katy wrote:

Also, ich verstehe diese Anleitung überhaupt nicht.... Wie ergeben bei einer Maschenprobe von 12M x 16R dann 131 M 45 cm??? Und wieviele Maschen sollen für die Vorderteile angeschlagen werden?? Kann mir das mal jemand übersetzen?? Ich habe die Wolle schon bestellt!!

27.02.2019 - 20:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kathy, am Anfang stricken Sie Bündchen 1 Masche rechts/1 Masche links, um die gewünschte Breite im Bündchen zu haben braucht man mehr Maschen als mit kraus rechts. Nach den Bündchen werden Sie 17 M regelmäßig verteilt abnehmen = 114 Maschen bleiben (= 95 cm) = 30 M für jedes Vorderteil und 54 M (= 45 cm) für das Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.02.2019 - 09:26

country flag Kate wrote:

Hello! I had a decreasing question. The pattern states to decrease by 17 stitches evenly, down to 114 stitches. For clarification's sake, that happens in one row, or over several rows?

03.10.2018 - 04:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Kate, The decreases are evenly spaced on one row. Happy knitting!

03.10.2018 - 07:59

country flag Liane Andersen wrote:

Hej med jer, drops ICE er udgået og alternative Garner er i uld. Men jeg vil gerne lave den i sommergarn. Hvad skal jeg vælge? Hilsen Liane

31.01.2018 - 17:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Liane. Du kan bruke 2 tråder av bomullsgarn fra garngruppe C (f.eks DROPS Paris) eller 4 tråder av bomullsgarn fra garngruppe A (f.eks DROPS Safran). Se vår oversikt over vårt sortiment og deres garngruppe. Bare husk å overholde strikkefastheten som er oppgitt i oppskriften og ha riktig garnmengde. Her er en link hvordan du selv kan regne ut garnmengde: Omregn garnmengde fra en kvalitet til en annen. God Fornøyelse!

01.02.2018 - 07:42

country flag Cindy wrote:

TT 043 vest Decrease question - math not adding up says to Dec each side of markers fine that's 4 stitches but it should be 8 according to the pattern???

01.12.2017 - 08:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cindy, you dec 4 sts per dec row a total of 3-4 times (see size), ie: 114-122-130-142-158-174 - (4 sts x 3-3-3-3-4-4 = 12-12-12-12-16-16 sts dec) = 102-110-118-130-142-158 sts. Happy knitting!

01.12.2017 - 09:51

Selma wrote:

Bonjour je ne comprend pas tres bien pour le col,on doit le commencer a 70cm de hauteur totale comme il est indique dans l explication(pour le devant gauche)ou il y a une erreur?je ne comprend pas aussi que veut dire"mesurer le col du cote le plus court"?c est la 1ere fois que je fais un col et j ai besoin de vos eclairages merci d avance!

07.03.2014 - 07:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Selma, quand on a rabattu les mailles de l'épaule, on continue sur les mailles restantes en rangs raccourcis pour le col jusqu'à ce que le col mesure 7 cm (en S) côté le plus court. La vidéo ci-dessous vous montre un col châle sans rangs raccourcis, mais l'idée est la même. Bon tricot!

07.03.2014 - 09:38

Selma wrote:

Bonsoir merci pour vos explications.en effet mes mailles n etaient pas reparties comme dans votre reponse.cela me parait beaucoup plus clair a present.mille merci!!

05.03.2014 - 19:04