DROPS / 90 / 15

DROPS 90-15 by DROPS Design

DROPS Long Crocheted Cardigan in Ice with Knit buttonband.

Sizes: XS - S/M - M/L - L/XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 82-92-100-108-118 cm
[32.25" - 36.25" - 39-3/8" - 42.5" - 46.5"]
Hem: 100-108-118-126-136 cm
[39-3/8" - 42.5" - 46.5" - 49-5/8" - 53.5"]

Materials: Garnstudio DROPS ICE
700-750-850-950-1000 gr nr 01, white

DROPS 8 mm [US 11] circular needles (for button bands)or size needed to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 7 mm [US K] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CARDIGAN:

Crochet gauge: 9 tc = approx. 10 cm in width
1 row of tc measures approx. 3 cm in height.

Pattern: See the Diagrams. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Rib: * K 3, P 3 *, repeat * - *.

Crochet tip: At the beginning of every row with tc replace 1st tc with ch 4. Crochets in every tc from previous row, not between them.

Decreasing tips: Dec or bind off as follows:
At the beginning of row: replace each tc to be decreased with 1 sl st.
At the end of row: turn piece when the number of tc to be decreased remains, and crochet back.

Measuring tips: measure piece when lying flat.

Back: Ch 69-75-81-87-93. Crochet the first row as follows: 1 tc in 5th ch from hook, * skip over 1 ch, 1 tc in the next 2 ch *, repeat * - * and finish with 1 tc in last ch = 45-49-53-57-61 tc.
Now crochet pattern following Diagr.1. At the same time on the 1st and 3 rows the 2nd and 3rd repeats of Diagr.1, dec 1 tc at each side = 37-41-45-49-53 tc – see decreasing tips above.
When the piece measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67 cm – adjust length so that you bind off on a row with tc (if you bind off on the 2nd row of Diagr.1, 1 ch = 1 tc when bound off) – bind off 2-4-4-6-8 tc at each side for armhole = 33-33-37-37-37 tc.
When you have repeated Diagr.1 a total of 4 times (the piece measures approx. 75 cm), repeat the first row in Diagr.1 to finished measurements (that is, continue in tc, be sure the number of tc stays the same).
When the piece measures 75-78-81-84-87 cm crochet the last row with only 10-10-12-12-12 tc at each side for shoulder.
Cut yarn and fasten, the piece measures approx. 78-81-84-87-90 cm.

Right front: Read entire section before crocheting:
Ch 33-39-39-45-51. Crochet the first row as follows: 1 tc in 5th ch from hook, * skip over 1 ch, 1 tc in the next 2 ch *, repeat * - * and finish with 1 tc in last ch = 21-25-25-29-33 tc.
Now crochet pattern following Diagr.1.
Side decs: On the 1st and 3 rows the 2nd and 3rd repeats of Diagr.1, dec 1 tc at the side as on back.
Neck shaping: When the piece measures 20 cm dec 1 tc at the center front every row marked with a star (*) in Diagr.1 a total of 5-7-5-7-9 times – see decreasing tips above.
When the piece measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67 cm – adjust to match back – bind off for armhole at the side as on back.
After all decs 10-10-12-12-12 tc remain on shoulder.
When you have repeated Diagr.1 a total of 4 times (the piece measures approx. 75 cm), repeat the first row in Diagr.1 to finished measurements as on back. Cut yarn and fasten when the piece measures 78-81-84-87-90 cm.

Left front: Crochet same as the right, reversing shaping.

Sleeve: Ch 33-39-39-45-51. Crochet the first row as follows: 1 tc in 5th ch from hook, * skip over 1 ch, 1 tc in the next 2 ch *, repeat * - * and finish with 1 tc in last ch = 21-25-25-29-33 tc.
Repeat Diagr.1 a total of 2 times, and then follow Diagr.2 to finished measurements.
At the same time when Diagr.1 has been crocheted 1 time (the piece measures approx. 21 cm) inc 1 tc at each side every row marked with a star (*) in diagram a total of 5-4-4-4-4 times at each side = 31-33-33-37-41 tc.
When the piece measures approx. 54-54-54-51-48 cm put a marker at each side (markers show where the sleeves will be sewn into armhole).
Crochet 1-1-1-2-3 row more, then cut yarn and fasten, the piece measures approx. 57 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams edge to edge. Sew side seams edge to edge.
Sew sleeve seams in the same manner up to the marker and sew in sleeves – the marker on sleeves should match up with the side seams on Body. Make sure the seams are not too tight.
Edge: Pick up and knit approx. 195-219 sts (divisible by 6 + 3) along right front, back neck and down left front. K 2 rows (1st row = wrong side). Then knit rib, keeping 3 sts in garter st at each end, and begin rib with K 3 (as seen from the right side).
When the rib measures approx. 7 cm inc all K 3 to K 4 (as seen from the right side) over the center 21 sts in back neck. When edge measures 12 cm, bind off all sts loosely in rib – as you are binding off, inc all P 3 to P 4 (as seen from the right side) over the center 21 sts in back neck.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 tr
= 1 ch
= 1 sc
= 1 sl st
= inc on this row

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 90-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

Teresa 24.01.2018 - 16:22:

Neck shaping- what does center front mean? Am I technically deceasing 2 dec at the begging of each repeat of Diag 1 on the 2nd and 3rd repeat than continue 3 more times at the row with the *? I am sorry I keep reaching out to you but the shop I ordered my yarn from site has been down and i can't reach them :(

DROPS Design 25.01.2018 kl. 07:32:

Dear Teresa, center front is the side towards front band (opposite to side towards back piece). You will decrease for neck in row 1 and 2 at the beg from RS on right front piece a total of 5-7-9 times (see size) every time you work the row with a star in Diag. 1. Happy crocheting!

Teresa Rey 22.01.2018 - 01:46:

I've gotten to row 5 finished the chains now I need to begin row 6 from left to right of pattern. No indication to slip stitch as on row 7 so am I to chain 2 sc than begin next row of chain 9"s?

DROPS Design 22.01.2018 kl. 10:33:

Dear Mrs Rey, at the beginning of row 6 crochet 3 sl st (see symbol "v" in diagram and under key) then 1 sc in ch-space, then chain 6, 1 sc in next ch-space, ..; happy crocheting!

Teresa Rey 27.12.2017 - 23:02:

I too love this pattern but not good at reading and understanding the diagram I do better with written instruction Is it possible to get a written pattern? once i get going than the diagram starts to make sense

DROPS Design 29.12.2017 kl. 10:05:

Dear Teresa, the diagram is not available in a form that is written out in more detail than it already is, however, you can always can get in person help in teh store you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy crafting!

Mariette 03.04.2016 - 22:43:

Ik snap het voorpand niet helemaal. Minder je aan beide kanten? En het stukje waar staat minder vanaf een hoogt van 20 cm 5-7-5-7-9 x 1 dstk. Wat wordt daar mee bedoeld? Ik begin met 39 ls en daarna 25 dstk. Bij de gewone minderingen en de mouwen zit ik al op nog maar 15 Stokjes.

DROPS Design 05.04.2016 kl. 13:20:

Hoi Mariette. Je mindert aan de zijkant zoals je deed op het achterpand (dus dit alleen voor de zijkant) en daarbij moet je ook minderen voor de hals (= middenvoor) vanaf 20 cm. Je mindert 5-7-5-7-9 keer 1 dstk (het aantal keer afhankelijk van welke maat je maakt) op de toer gemarkeerd met een sterretje op het telpatroon.

PETIT 29.11.2015 - 20:35:

Bonjour, pour la bordure, à 7 cm du bord, il y a augmentation de 1 maille dans les sections de mailles envers. Ces augmentations doivent elles être faites sur toute la bordure ou uniquement sur la partie correspondant aux 21 MAILLES CENTRALES de l'encolure dos ? D'avance je vous remercie pour votre réponse. Cordialement Isabelle

DROPS Design 30.11.2015 kl. 11:01:

Bonjour Mme Petit, les augmentations se font au niveau des 21 m centrales, on va augmenter 2 m env de chaque côté du milieu dos. On va ainsi avoir 4 fois des côtes 3 m end/4 m env (vu sur l'endroit) au niveau du milieu dos (à l'encolure) et des côtes 3 m end/3 m env (vu sur l'endroit) avant/après, comme avant. Bon tricot!

Murphy 20.08.2015 - 01:19:

"When you have repeated Diagr.1 a total of 4 times (the piece measures approx. 75 cm), repeat the first row in Diagr.1 to finished measurements (that is, continue in tc, be sure the number of tc stays the same). When the piece measures 75-78-81-84-87 cm crochet the last row with only 10-10-12-12-12 tc at each side for shoulder. Cut yarn and fasten, the piece measures approx. 78-81-84-87-90 cm." Can someone give me a easier explanation within the quotes

DROPS Design 20.08.2015 kl. 13:58:

Dear Mrs Murphy, after you have worked Diag. 1 a total of 4 times in height (you should get 75 cm in heith), continue in tc (as in row 1 in Diag A) make sure you keep correct number of sts. At the same time, when piece measures 75-87 cm (see your size), work 1 row over the outermost 10-12 tc in each side for the shoulders (= leave the middle tc unworked for neckline). Happy crocheting!

Emilie 05.04.2015 - 17:42:

Bonjour, pourriez-vous me dire ce qu'est le diagramme M1? Il s'agit du diagramme complet? Car je ne vois nulle part écrit m1... Merci d'avance

DROPS Design 07.04.2015 kl. 09:23:

Bonjour Emilie, M1 correspond à la partie encadrée soit Diag. 1 dans le diagramme et M2 à Diag.2. Bon crochet!

Kayla 12.01.2015 - 20:02:

Would anyone here that has commented able to help I have no idea how to follow a diagram pattern was wondering if any one could convert it to written pattern I would so love to make this pattern if so please leave contact information

Kayla 06.01.2015 - 22:56:

Is there a written pattern for the diagram I do not understand how to follow diagrams i can follow them like row 1 just need to know how to do pattern written Thank you so much for your time and consideration

DROPS Design 07.01.2015 kl. 10:25:

Dear Kayla, each stitch is representated by a symbol - diagram text is above measurement chart - start reading diagram from the bottom corner on the left side (diag. 2) and read towards the right, on row 2, read from the right towards the left and so on. Remember you can get also help from your DROPS Store. Happy crocheting!

Sandy 30.11.2014 - 19:06:

I would love to see this cardigan from the back, if possible please. Thank you

DROPS Design 01.12.2014 kl. 13:58:

Dear Sandy, we do not have pictures from back piece, but back piece will be worked as front piece, with same pattern, so as you can see on the picture. Happy crocheting!

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