DROPS / 125 / 19

DROPS 125-19 by DROPS Design

DROPS scarf with cables in ”Eskimo”.

Tags: cable, capes, scarves,

DROPS design: Pattern no EE-310
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Size: one size

Materials: DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
500 g color no 46, medium gray

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 7 mm / US 10½ – for rib.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.80 CAD /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.80 CAD /50g
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 3.25 CAD /50g
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 3.55 CAD /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.00CAD. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
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SCARF:
Cast on 26 sts on needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Eskimo. Work GARTER ST - see above - back and forth on needle for approx 12 cm / 4¾''. Change to needle size 7 mm / US 10½. Continue in rib as follows (from RS): 2 garter sts, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 2 garter sts until rib measures approx 15 cm / 6''. Change back to needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work next row from RS as follows: 1 Garter st, 1 YO, 1 Garter st, 1 YO, K2, P2, K2, 1 YO, K2, 1 YO, K2, P2, K2, 1 YO, K2, 1 YO, K2, P2, K2, 1 YO, 1 Garter st, 1 YO and 1 Garter st = 34 sts.
Work next row from WS as follows:
4 Garter sts, P2, K2, P8, K2, P8, K2, P2, 4 Garter sts. NOTE! Work YO into back of loop on return row.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Insert a marker 4 sts in from each side and continue in M.1 between markers with garter st each side. AT THE SAME TIME inc the garter sts each side as follows (from RS): inc 1 st before the first marker on every 4th row and 1 st after the second marker on every 8th row. Continue like this until there are 17 sts before the first marker and 10 sts after the second marker (= a total of 53 sts).
AT THE SAME TIME as beg M.1 also work shortened rows on the garter sts each side. Work back and forth 1 time on the garter sts at beg of every row from RS. And work back and forth 1 time on the garter sts at beg of every other row from WS (these rows each side are additional and not included with respect to the inc).
When all inc are complete work 1 row from WS with K over K and P over P. Then K 1 row from RS on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 sts on each cable (= 4 dec sts) = 49 sts. K 1 row from WS on all sts.
bind off 17 garter sts (= collar) at beg of row, work remaining sts on rows = 32 sts. Work garter st on the remaining sts with shortened rows as follows (row 1 = from WS):
Work row until 3 sts remain on needle, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work row until 6 sts remain on needle, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Continue like this with 3 sts more before each turn until you have worked back and forth on 2 sts only. Now work back and forth on all sts and bind off.

Knit 1 more piece in the same way, but mirrored.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the 2 pieces tog mid back, sew edge to edge in outer loops of sts to avoid a chunky seam.

Pick up 26 sts on needle size 7 mm / US 10½ with Eskimo behind the rib on the right side. Continue as follows: 2 garter sts, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 2 garter sts until rib measures approx 15 cm / 6'' (adjust to the rib in front). Bind off with K over K and P over P.
Sew the rib to the back of scarf.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K4, K4 from cable needle
= slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K4, K4 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 125-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (48)

ELisabeth 21.08.2018 - 16:06:

Je suis gauchère et tricoter la deuxième partie en sens inverse me pose un véritable problème ! Merci de m'aider car je souhaite vraiment réaliser cette belle écharpe. Bien à vous

DROPS Design 03.09.2018 kl. 15:11:

Bonjour Elisabeth, pour tricoter la 2ème partie, vous devez faire à droite ce que vous avez fait à gauche pour la 1ère partie et à gauche dans la 2èe partie ce que vous avez fait à droite pour la 1ère partie, les 2 pièces doivent être en miroir. Par ex, les rangs raccourcis du col se tricoteront en commençant sur l'endroit (les mailles sont au préalables rabattues sur l'envers). Votre magasin saura vous aider et vous conseiller si besoin, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Morera 04.03.2016 - 22:39:

Les explications de ce modèle drops125-19 ne donne pas les dimensions, surtout en longueur, pouvez vous me les indiquer? svp merci+++ par avance, sincères salutations

DROPS Design 07.03.2016 kl. 10:49:

Bonjour Mme Morera, pour les dimensions, vous pouvez vous fier à la tension et aux explications ainsi qu'à la photo. Bon tricot!

Lilli Bruun 06.01.2016 - 13:37:

Da jeg så den måtte jeg bare igang med pindene så flot og så anvenlig´glæder mig til den er færdig

Delaplanche 15.03.2015 - 09:59:

Bonjour, Doit-on arrêter de tricoter en rangs raccourcis sur les mailles point mousse de chaque côté lorsque nous avons obtenu 53m au total après les augmentations ? Merci d'avance

DROPS Design 16.03.2015 kl. 09:08:

Bonjour Mme Delaplanche, quand toutes les augmentations sont faites, on ne tricote plus les rangs raccourcis, mais on continue comme indiqué avec les diminutions et les mailles à rabattre, pus on tricote encore de nouveaux rangs raccourcis (3 m en moins tous les 2 rangs) jusqu'au milieu dos. Bon tricot!

Gunilla Andersson 03.02.2015 - 19:00:

Jättesnygg! Jag skulle önska att kunna sticka den i tunnare garn. Finns något sådant mönster?

DROPS Design 04.02.2015 kl. 09:08:

Hej Gunille, Inte just den, men du kan även söka efter ett sjal i garngrupp B som = 21 m på 10 cm. Lycka till!

Elke 21.01.2015 - 06:48:

Den Schal sieht auf dem Foto so toll aus, fiel bei mir aber viel zu klein und zu schmal aus. Auf dem Foto geht er weit über die Schultern - bei mir nicht mal bis an die Schultern. Außer dem Chart für den Zopf und dem fertigen Foto gibt es keine Bilder. Ein paar Absätze im Text würden die Verständlichkeit erleichtern. Vor allem sollten aber eine bemaßte Skizze eines fertigen Strickteils sowie eine gezeichnete Erklärung für die Zunahmen und die verkürzten Reihen ergänzt werden.

Fillatre 28.12.2014 - 02:19:

SVP peut on faire ce modele avec d autres laines, si oui proposez moi les couleurs ainsi que le nombres de pelotes de laine. MERCI

DROPS Design 30.12.2014 kl. 13:44:

Bonjour Mme Fillatre, vous pouvez tout à fait utiliser une autre qualité que celle proposée dans les explications. Cliquez ici pour en savoir plus sur les équivalences, groupes et calcul des quantités. Les couleurs disponibles figurent sous chaque nuancier, votre magasin DROPS pourra vous conseiller si nécessaire. Bon tricot!

Ulrike Wulf 15.12.2014 - 15:34:

Hallo, bin jetzt fertig mit der Anleitung des ersten Teils und es sieht superschön aus. Ist aber nur 65 cm lang. Ist es nicht ein bisschen kurz, wenn der Schal insgesamt nur 1,30m wird?

DROPS Design 22.12.2014 kl. 00:00:

Der Schal wird sich durch das Garngewicht noch ein bisschen aushängen und etwas länger werden. Die von Ihnen angegebene Maße passen aber auch in etwa zu der Länge des Schals, die Sie auf dem Foto sehen.

Lugert 23.11.2013 - 19:22:

Ich habe lange nicht gestrickt und verstehe nicht alle Abkürzungen wie z.B. *2 re oder von *-*. Ich benötige eine Erklärung, warum 1 M re und 2 re, was ist der Unterschied.

DROPS Design 25.11.2013 kl. 07:58:

Liebe Frau Lugert, wenn Ihnen die Grundlagen nicht mehr präsent sind, schauen Sie sich am besten alle relevanten Hilfsvideos zu dieser Anleitung an.

Schumacher 30.10.2013 - 19:36:

Hallo, lieben Dank für Ihre Hilfe. Ich habe den Fehler schon gefunden. Es lag an den Reihen, erst hatte ich 16 Reihen. Nun habe ich 8 Reihen und es stimmt. Nochmals Danke

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