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Celtic Winter by DROPS Design

DROPS waistcoat in ”Alaska” with raglan and cables on yoke. Size S to XXXL.

Keywords: bottom up, cable, jackets, round neck, round yoke, short sleeves, vests

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DROPS design: Pattern no Z-495
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-98-104-114-126-138 cm / 34 5/8"-38½"-41"-45"-49½"-54 1/4"
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-750 g color no 12, navy blue

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 5 mm/US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. In M.1, approx 25 rows = 10 cm / 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 4 mm/US 6 – for borders.

DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTONS, no 537: 7 pcs.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool 		from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns 		Order
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 2.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.75$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagrams M.1 – pattern in diagram is seen from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 12, 19, 26, 34, 41, 49, 56 cm / 4¾",7½",10¼",13 3/8",16 1/8",19¼",22".
SIZE M: 12, 20, 28, 36, 43, 51, 58 cm / 4¾",8",11",14¼",17",20",22¾".
SIZE L: 12, 20, 28, 36, 44, 52, 60 cm / 4¾",8",11",14¼",17¼",20½",23 5/8".
SIZE XL: 12, 21, 29, 37, 45, 54, 62 cm / 4¾",8¼",11 3/8",14½",17¾",21¼",24 3/8".
SIZE XXL: 12, 21, 30, 39, 47, 56, 64 cm / 4¾",8¼",11¾",15¼",18½",22",25¼".
SIZE XXXL: 12, 21, 30, 39, 48, 57, 66 cm /
4¾",8¼",11¾",15¼",19",22½",26".
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BODY PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 240-264-282-306-336-366 sts (includes 5 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Alaska. Continue as follows from RS: 5 front band sts in GARTER ST – see above, K2, * P4/ K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 5 front band sts in garter st.
When rib measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' work (make sure next row is from RS) change to needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 front band sts in garter st, K2, * K2 tog, K2 tog, K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 5 front band sts in garter st = 164-180-192-208-228-248. Continue in reverse stockinette st and front bands in garter st as before. Insert a marker 43-47-50-54-59-64 sts in from each side (= 78-86-92-100-110-120 sts between markers on back piece). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm / 4''-4''-4 3/8''-4 3/8''-4¾''-4¾'' dec 1 st each side of both markers, and repeat the dec on every 2 cm / 3/4'' a total of 5 times = 144-160-172-188-208-228 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'' make BUTTONHOLES on right front band – see above! When piece measures 22-22-23-23-24-24 cm / 8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9"-9½"-9½" inc 1 st each side of both markers, and repeat the inc on every 3 cm / 1 1/8'' a total of 4 times = 160-176-188-204-224-244 sts. When piece measures 37-39-40-42-43-44 cm / 14½"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16½"-17"-17 1/4" bind off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts each side for armhole on next row from RS (= 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts each side of marker) = 148-164-172-188-204-224 sts left on needle. Put piece aside.

SLEEVE EDGES:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 58-61-70-73-78-79 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. K 3 rows and work next row as follows: bind off the first 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts, K sts on row until 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts remain, bind off theses sts, cut the thread = 52-55-62-65-68-69 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve edge.

YOKE:
Slip sts from sleeve edges on the same circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 as body piece where bind off for armholes = 252-274-296-318-340-362 sts.
K 1 row from WS and work 0-0-2-2-4-6 rows in reverse stockinette st with front bands in garter st. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 front band sts in garter st, P10, * inc 1 st in each of the next 2 sts and K these 4 sts, P20 *, repeat from *-* a total of 10-11-12-13-14-15 times, inc 1 st in each of the next 2 sts and K these 4 sts, P10, and 5 front band sts in garter st = 274-298-322-346-370-394 sts. Now continue in M.1 with front bands in garter st as before (first row = WS). On row 4 in M.1 inc 2 sts in each repeat as per the diagram = 296-322-348-374-400-426 sts. Now complete M.1. After M.1 there are 98-106-114-122-130-138 sts on needle. Work 1 row from WS.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. K 1 row from RS, at the same time dec 16-18-22-24-30-30 sts evenly (do not dec on front bands) = 82-88-92-98-100-108 sts. K 1 row. Insert a marker mid back. Continue in garter st on all sts, at the same time work shortened rows mid back as follows (first row = RS): K 7 sts past marker mid back, turn, K 7 sts past marker on the other side, turn, K 14 sts past marker, turn, K 14 sts past marker on the other side, turn, and continue like this with 7 more sts before each turn until you have work a total of 35-35-35-42-42-42 sts each side of marker. Turn, K all sts on row and then work 3 rows on all sts. Bind off with K sts from RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve edges tog, edge to edge and sew openings under sleeves. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 07.10.2010
Sleeve edge: ....K 3 rows and work next row as follows: bind off the first 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts, K sts on row until 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts remain, bind off these sts, cut the thread = 52-55-62-65-68-69 sts remain on needle.
Updated online: 12.10.2016
YOKE: ...Now complete M.1. After M.1 there are 98-106-114-122-130-138 sts on needle. Work 1 row from WS. Change to circular needle size 4 mm...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS.
symbols = P from RS, K from WS.
symbols = P2 in this st.
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P2, K2 from cable needle.
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, P2 from cable needle.
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle.
symbols = P2 tog.
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 121-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (77)

country flag Henny wrote:

Hallo, Als ik maat L wil breien en dus een omtrek van 113 cm zou moeten hebben bij een stekenproef van 17 st. per 10 cm. kom ik uit op 192 steken. In het patroon staan er 282 aangegeven. Wordt het vestje dan niet veel te wijd?

18.10.2021 - 10:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Henny,

Na de boord worden er steken geminderd, zodat je 192 steken over houdt. Als ik het goed is, is de omtrek van maat L op de heupen 108 cm (2 x 54). Met een stekenverhouding van 17 steken in de breedte is 10 cm in de breedte heb je ongeveer 1,7 x 108 = 184 steken nodig. Met de bies erbij klopt dat dus wel aardig.

19.10.2021 kl. 13:02

country flag Alexandra Janse wrote:

Bonjour Je tricote ce magnifique modèle dans une taille intermédiaire. Pour les côtes, la longueur 80 cm de l'aiguille diamètre 4 est bien trop courte, pour le jersey en 5 c'est la limite du confort 80 cm... Cela doit être douloureux en xxxl. Heureusement la nouvelle collection indique la longueur des aiguilles en fonction de la taille. Bonnes mailles

08.09.2021 - 09:00

country flag Adela wrote:

No aparece el patron del jersey con las distintas medidas...

18.05.2021 - 18:19

country flag Simone Van Der Gaag wrote:

Thank you for the lovely pattern. I knitted it with handspun yarn and it worked out very well. I really love the pattern amd the fact you almost knit the whole cardigan in one piece. Great!

01.02.2021 - 09:23

country flag Jo wrote:

Can you clarify the ribbing please? Is it two by two or four by four or two by four. (The site isn’t allowing me to write asterisks or numbers so apologies for weird phrasing.) thanks.

28.12.2020 - 14:05

country flag Sylvia Lees wrote:

You say to buy 7 buttons, and to make 7 buttonholes, but there are 8 in the picture. Why?

23.05.2020 - 21:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sylvia, there are 7 buttons on tthe sweter seen at the picture, the top button is abot 1-1.5 cm from the top, the bottom is left open. Where do you see an 8th? Happy Knitting!

25.05.2020 kl. 00:42

country flag Ine wrote:

Is er al iemand die het vest met lange mouwen heeft gebreid..? ( geprobeerd te breien..) Gelukkig 2020!

01.01.2020 - 12:58

country flag Lee wrote:

Would it be possible to give instructions on how to modify this sweater to a pull over instead of button front?

22.07.2019 - 21:45

country flag Anja wrote:

Hallo, Ik brei graag top-down en wil dat model ook zo breien. Zou het met het patroon lukken wanneer ik het omkeer en i.p.v. steken bijv. 2 steken Samen te breien - 1 steek toevoegen? Zou het lukken?

07.03.2019 - 11:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anja,

Theoretisch zou je het om moeten kunnen keren. Waar je meerdert moet je dan minderen en vice versa. Zo kun j e ook de kabel andersom breien. Het is wel verstandig om het eerst even goed uit te denken en evt. ook uit te schrijven.

07.03.2019 kl. 20:42

Arcadia wrote:

I'm not sure if I've understood correctly. I have just finished the rib. The next row, on the RS (where the rib looks like KK PPPP KK) is KNIT (with decreases - K2, * K2 tog, K2 tog, K2 *) Now it's asking for reverse stocking, which means the RS is all PURL - but I just did a row of KNIT. Is it correct that on the RS there's one row of KNIT before PURLing the rest of the garment? Thank you :)

01.05.2018 - 03:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Arcadia, Knit the sts as described on first row after rib (= from RS) then continue with reversed stocking st (= P from RS and K from WS). Happy knitting!

02.05.2018 kl. 09:45

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