DROPS / 123 / 35

Capricho by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS Basque hat with garter st and leaf pattern in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”.

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-519
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Size: S/M - L/XL
Head circumference: 52/56 cm - 58/60 cm / 20½"/22" - 22 3/4"/23½"

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-100 g color no 2020m, eco light camel mix
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
25-25 g color no 01, off-white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 4 mm /US 6 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 36 rows in garter st with 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 3 mm / US 2or3 – for edge.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.

INCREASING TIP:
Inc on a round with P st between the leaves. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

LEAF PATTERN (in the round):
ROUND 1: * 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K6 *, repeat from *-* to end.
ROUND 2: * K3, P6 *, repeat from *-* to end (remember the inc before each marker).
ROUND 3: * K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1, K7, K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1, K6 *, repeat from *-* to end.
ROUND 4: * K5, P7, K5, P6 *, repeat from *-* to end.
ROUND 5: * K2, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K2, K7, K2, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K2, K6 *, repeat from *-* to end.
ROUND 6: *K7, P7 (remember the inc before each marker), K7, P6 *, repeat from *-* to end.
ROUND 7: * K3, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K3, K8, K3, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K3, K6*, repeat from *-* to end.
ROUND 8: * K9, P8, K9, P6 *, repeat from *-* to end.
ROUND 9: K all sts.
ROUND 10: * K9, P8 (remember the inc before each marker), K9, P6 *, repeat from *-* to end.
ROUND 11: * Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K5, K2 tog, K9, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K5, K2 tog, K6*, repeat from *-* to end.
ROUND 12: K7, P9, K7, P6 *, repeat from *-* to end.
ROUND 13: * Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K3, K2 tog, K9, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K3, K2 tog, K6 *, repeat from *-* to end.
ROUND 14: * K5, P9 (remember the inc before each marker), K5, P6 *, repeat from *-* to end.
ROUND 15: * Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K1, K2 tog, K10, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K1, K2 tog, K6 *, repeat from *-* to end.
ROUND 16: * K3, P10, K3, P6 *, repeat from *-* to end.
ROUND 17: * Slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, K10, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, K6 *, repeat from *-* to end.
ROUND 18: P all sts (remember the inc before each marker).
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HAT:
Worked in the round. Cast on 86-90 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca and Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 2.5 cm / 1'' stockinette st, P 1 round (= folding edge) and work 2.5 cm / 1'' stockinette st. Now measure piece from here.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work 2 rounds GARTER ST - see above - AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-6 sts evenly on first round = 78-84 sts. Continue in M.1, AT THE SAME TIME on last round in M.1 dec 8-0 sts evenly = 70-84 sts. After M.1 insert 5-6 markers in piece as follows: marker 1 after 4 sts, then 14 sts between each marker, i.e. 10 sts after the last marker.
Continue in LEAF PATTERN - see above. AT THE SAME TIME on round 2 in leaf pattern inc 1 st before each marker - see INCREASING TIP. Repeat the inc on every 4th round until there is a total of 6 inc by each marker - NOTE: 1 inc remain after the leaf pattern has been completed.
After leaf pattern continue in garter st (there are 100-120 sts on needle after leaf pattern and the inc by markers).
When piece measures approx 9-11 cm / 3½"-4½" from the edge - adjust so that next round is a K round - dec before each marker by K2 tog. Repeat the dec on every other round (i.e. on every K round) a total of 17 times = 15-18 sts left on needle. Change to double pointed needles when sts no longer fit circular needle. K2 tog across next K round, cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.
Fold edge double towards WS and fasten with neat sts.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K
= P
= 1 YO
= K2 tog

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 123-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (56)

Sandra 03.12.2019 - 21:18:

Bonjour, je crois qu’en j ai compris d ou vient mon erreur . Au tour 1 on fait des jetés et donc moi ça me fait des augmentations à chaque fois , 1 maille de plus . Est il possible de faire des jetés sans augmentations ? Je vais essayé de mieux comprendre la vidéo sur les feuilles . À quel tour commence t elle sur la vidéo ? Merci

DROPS Design 04.12.2019 kl. 08:38:

Bonjour Sandra, vous pouvez effectivement augmenter d'une autre façon, mais conservez bien les jetés du point de feuilles. Vous pouvez par exemple augmenter les mailles au point mousse en les tricotant 2 fois (= 1 fois dans le brin avant, 1 fois dans le brin arrière), cf vidéo (si les augmentations se font sur un tour en mailles endroit du point mousse, si elle se font sur un tour envers, tricotez la maille 2 fois à l'envers (= de la même façon, une fois dans le brin avant et 1 fois dans le brin arrière mais à l'envers cette fois). Bon tricot!

Sandra 30.11.2019 - 15:08:

Et la suite ! est ce que je lis bien :Augmenter sur un tour en mailles envers entre les feuilles- qui veut dire que je fais une augmentation avec jeté tricoté à l envers ? Même si je suis dans une « série » 3 mailles end ? J espère que vous comprenez ??! Je suis débutante mais je m éclate ! Merci beaucoup de votre aide - je n arrive pas du tout à voir/comprendre la vidéos du point feuille désolée :/

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 09:17:

Quand vous augmentez au tour 2, vous faites 1 jeté, les mailles point mousse entre les feuilles se tricotent à l'envers sur ce tour. Au tour suivant, tricotez les augmentations des marqueurs torse à l'endroit (= les mailles point mousse se tricotent à l'endroit sur ce tour). Bon tricot!

Sandra 30.11.2019 - 15:05:

Bonjour ! Encore une question ! Au tour 2 du point feuille . On doit en plus faire les augmentations . Est ce qu on les compte dans le 3 end /6 envers ou est-ce qu’on utilise une maille « en dehors/en plus » pour faire cette augmentation ? Par exemple pour le premier marqueur ça ferait 3 end - 1env - une augmentation puis les 5 autre envers ?

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 09:16:

Bonjour Sandra, pour augmenter 1 maille, faites 1 jeté (= cf AUGMENTATIONS). Les premières augmentations se font après les marqueurs, vous tricotez les augmentations au point mousse (1 tour à l'end, 1 tour à l'env), entre les mailles des feuilles (= au tour 2, 1 feuille = 3 m end). Bon tricot!

Sandra 07.11.2019 - 18:53:

Rebonjour, mon échantillon fait 19 mailles pour 34 rangs . Je vais donc changer d'aiguille pour une 5 mais concernant les rangs comment faire ? merci !

DROPS Design 08.11.2019 kl. 08:32:

Bonjour Sandra, en changeant pour une aiguille plus grosse, votre nombre de rangs devrait s'en trouver modifié également; Si vous avez quelques rangs de différence en hauteur, ce ne devrait pas se voir sur le bonnet car les mesures sont indiquées en cm. Bon tricot!

Sandra 24.10.2019 - 19:48:

Bonjour, Puis je faire ce modèle que avec kids silk ? En effet, j aimerais le porter avec l écharpe soft cloud que j'ai réalisé avec deux fils kids silk : un vieux rose et l' autre blanc . sinon Comment avoir le même genre d'effet ? merci !

DROPS Design 25.10.2019 kl. 09:27:

Bonjour Sandra, on tricote ici avec 1 fil Alpaca et 1 fil Kid-Silk, soit 2 fils du groupe A, vous pouvez remplacer par 2 fils Kid-Silk, rappelez-vous toutefois que la texture sera différente (cf cette leçon). Bon tricot!

Pia 23.06.2019 - 21:45:

Saknar måtten för nasktätheten med st nr 3. Jag stickar snarare lite fast än löst så 90 maskor på st 3 gav c:a 40 cm.... (22 m för 10 cm)??? Det satt som ett spännband runt mitt huvud på 58 cm. Mvh

DROPS Design 24.06.2019 kl. 07:20:

Hei Pia. Strikkefastheten skal være 17 masker x 36 pinner med rettstrikkning = 10 x 10 cm. Du må selv justere pinnestørrelsen slik at du får denne strikkefastheten, ellers blir målene helt feil. Om du har strikket med 22 masker i bredden = 10 cm vil luen bli altfor liten - som du selv sier. Med den angitte strikkefastheten blir 90 masker = 53 cm. Om du vil strikke med en annnen strikkefasthet må oppskriften skrives om, ettersom maskeantallene må justeres gjennom hele oppskriften. God fornøyelse

Regine 07.11.2018 - 08:13:

Bonjour pour ce modèle : Se tricote en rond. Monter 86-90 m avec l'aiguille circulaire 3 et les fils Alpaca et Kid-Silk (= 2 fils). Tricoter 2.5 cm jersey, puis 1 tour env (= rang de cassure) et 2.5 cm jersey. quand je regarde la photo je vois bien 2.5cm de jersey 1 rang envers mais après j'ai pas l'impression qu'il y ait 2.5 cm de jersey mais plutôt 1 rang ? Merci

DROPS Design 07.11.2018 kl. 08:43:

Bonjour Régine, au tout début du bonnet, on va tricoter un ourlet, les 2,5 premiers cm ne se voient pas sur la photo, ils sont retournés sur l'envers et cousus ainsi. Bon tricot!

Zezette 19.11.2017 - 18:48:

Est il normal qu arrivé au 9e rang je me retrouve avec 162 mailles avec les jetées plus les augmentations tous les 4 rangs ? Merci à bientôt

DROPS Design 20.11.2017 kl. 10:14:

Bonjour Zezette, après le motif feuilles et les augmentations aux marqueurs, on doit avoir 100-120 m. Vous pouvez vérifier avec la vidéo comment tricoter le point de feuilles. Bon tricot!

Clairke 04.02.2016 - 13:17:

Is het mogelijk het telpatroon van de blaadjes te bekomen van het model Z -519 ? Het lukt me langs geen kanten om verder te werken dan de 2e rij. De omslag die gemaakt wordt telt toch ook mee als steek. Ik vind het nochtans een mooi werkstuk. Jammer dat het me niet lukt. Dank u

DROPS Design 04.02.2016 kl. 13:48:

Beste Clairke. Wij hebben helaas geen telpatroon voor dit motief. Maar ik zal het op de wenslijst voor een instructievideo zetten. Ik kan helaas niet zeggen hoe lang dat duurt.

Gina Sierra 09.12.2014 - 16:46:

Round 2: concerning the increases, is this counted in the k3, p6? Or is it in addition to the k3,p6 established pattern? Thank you for any help.

DROPS Design 10.12.2014 kl. 10:07:

Dear Mrs Sierra, inc are done on round 2 and every other round but come in addition to the pattern *K3,P6* - Happy knitting!

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