DROPS Extra / 0-634

Bunny Toes by DROPS Design

DROPS Easter bunny booties in ”BabyMerino” and ”Kid-Silk”.

DROPS design: Pattern no BM-031-by-easter
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
To fit foot length: approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm / 4''-4 3/8''-4¾'' (5½''-6¼'')

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes color no 03, light yellow
A remnant light pink + gray
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes color no 01, off-white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2or3 – or size needed to get 22 sts x 45 rows in garter st with 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 2.5 mm/ C/2 – for border.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.

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BOOTIE:
Worked in the round.
Cast on 40-40-44 (44-48) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 with 1 strand light yellow Baby Merino + 1 strand Kid-Silk. K 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2, for 6-7-7 (8-8) cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4" (3 1/8"-3 1/8").
K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts evenly on round = 36-36-40 (40-44) sts. Now keep the first 10-10-12 (12-12) sts on needle (= upper piece), and slip remaining 26-26-28 (28-32) sts on a stitch holder. Work 18-20-22 (26-28) rows GARTER ST – see above - back and forth on upper piece, then pick up 1 st in every other row each side of upper piece (= 9-10-11 (13-14) sts each side) and slip sts from stitch holder back on needle = 54-56-62 (66-72) sts.
Continue in GARTER ST in the round – see above. Work 8-10-12 (14-16) rounds, AT THE SAME TIME on second round (= K round) dec 2 sts mid front by K2 tog on the middle 4 st. Repeat the dec on the 6th round = 50-52-58 (62-68) sts. After 8-10-12 (14-16) rounds bind off all sts except the 10-10-12 (12-12) sts mid front.
Work 8-9-10 (12-15) cm / 3 1/8"-3½"-4" (4 3/4"-6") garter st back and forth on these sts for sole. Bind off and sew sole to the bootie, edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

EARS:
Worked back and forth on 2 double pointed needles.
Cast on 8 sts on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with 1 strand light yellow Baby Merino + 1 strand Kid-Silk.
Work 16 rows garter st back and forth on needle, on next row K2 tog across the row. Cut the thread, pull it through remaining 4 sts and tighten tog, fold the ear double in the knitting direction and use thread to sew the ear tog, edge to edge – i.e. garter st towards garter st. Make another ear in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew ears to the top of foot, fold each ear double towards the side and sew 2 sts to keep it in place. Embroider a nose with light pink and eyes and whiskers with gray.
Crochet a border with light pink and crochet hook size 2.5 mm/C/2 along the top of bootie as follows: 1 sc in first st, * ch 4, 1 dc in the first ch (= 1 picot), skip 1 st, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first sc.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-634) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Lisa 05.08.2020 - 08:55:

Super søde 🤗 jeg er dog bekymret for, at de er for glatte til et barn der kan gå. Har I et forslag til, hvordan man kan gøre dem skridsikre?

Georgina Villanueva Rojas 18.05.2019 - 15:40:

Quisiera saber si tienen el patron o tutorial de 194-1 Sheep Happens

DROPS Design 25.05.2019 kl. 19:29:

Hola Georgina. Tienes los patrones 194-1 y 194-2 en español y una versión para niños DROPS Children 34-1, 32-2, 34-3.

Dea 28.02.2019 - 15:59:

Buongiorno, nella spiegazione c'è scritto "Lavorare 18-20-22 (26-28) righe a PUNTO LEGACCIO - vedere spiegazioni precedenti - ...." siete sicuri? Per righe cosa intendete ferri o coste? Tra le due cose c'è differenza. Grazie.

DROPS Design 28.02.2019 kl. 16:49:

Buongiorno Dea. Sono 18-20-22 (26-28) ferri per la parte sopra del piede. Più avanti, dovrà riprendere 1 maglia ogni 2 ferri ai lati della parte sopra del piede, quindi riprenderà 9-10-11 (13-14) m. Buon lavoro!

Dea 25.02.2019 - 14:32:

Perchè sotto il nome del modello c'è scritto...Collo Moebius DROPS in "BabyMerino" ?

DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 15:05:

Buongiorno Dea. Abbiamo corretto il titolo. La ringraziamo per la segnalazione. Buon lavoro!

Sara 17.07.2017 - 08:09:

Brei je het zooltje vanaf de neus of vanaf de hiel van het slofje? Moet je de minderingen over de vier middelste steken dus bij de enkel of de neus maken?

DROPS Design 01.11.2017 kl. 20:01:

Hoi Sara, Het zooltje brei je vanaf de neus: Kant na 8-10-12 (14-16) nld alle st af behalve de 10-10-12 (12-12) st middenvoor. Brei 8-9-10 (12-15) cm ribbelst heen en weer over deze st voor de zool. Met de steken middenvoor die op de naald blijven, brei je het zooltje. De vier minderingen maak je dus bij de neus.

Barbara Portelli 02.03.2017 - 15:24:

Ciao a tutti, potete spiegarmi esattamente cosa intendete per "attorcigliare due volte ogni orecchio"? Grazie mille, Barbara

DROPS Design 02.03.2017 kl. 15:56:

Buonasera Barbara. Abbiamo modificato il testo. Deve piegare l'orecchio e cucire per formare uno spessore in modo che mantengano la posizione, come vede nella fotografia. Buon lavoro!

Marie Boyer 21.03.2014 - 01:43:

Erreur ds les explications: au lieu de " au 2ème tour (= tour endroit), diminuer 2 m au milieu devant en tricotant ens à l'end les 4 m du milieu" il faut lire diminuer 2 m en faisant 2 diminutions sur les 4 m du milieu.

DROPS Design 23.03.2014 kl. 17:54:

Bonjour Mmr Boyer et merci, le texte a été modifié. Bon tricot!

Marjo Leppänen 16.01.2014 - 05:41:

Tässä ohjeessa jalkaterää neulotaan vain yläosan silmukoilla ja vielä kahteen kertaan, mutta alaosan silmukoilla ei tehdä mitään, ne katoaa ilmeisestikin vai olisiko niin että jopikumpi noista yläosan silmukoista olisikin alaosan silmukoita?

DROPS Design 20.01.2014 kl. 16:31:

Yläosan silmukoilla jatketaan neulomista, sillä aikaa kun alaosan s:t jäävät apulangalle odottamaan. Kun yläosa on riittävän pitkä, sen reunoista poimitaan uusia silmukoita ja alaosan s:t otetaan takaisin työhön. Sitten neulotaan taas kaikilla silmukoilla suljettua neuletta.

Heidi 03.10.2013 - 15:01:

Ska det inte vara 25g kid silk?

Strick-nanerl 19.03.2013 - 23:31:

Great!!! So cute!!! Danke für die tolle Anleitung! So geht sich noch ein schnelles Ostergeschenk für meine Nichte aus!!

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