DROPS / 119 / 4

Water Twist by DROPS Design

Moebius DROPS shawl with textured pattern in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-476
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Circumference: 94-105-116-124-135-146 cm / 37"-41 3/8"-45 3/4"-48 3/4"-53"-57 3/8"

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
color no 6205, light blue: 100-150-150-150-150-200 g
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
color no 07, light steel blue: 50-75-75-75-75-100 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 5.5 mm/US 9 - or size needed to get 16 sts x 20 rows in pattern with 1 thread Alpaca + 1 thread Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 4.5/US 7 and 6.5 mm/US 10½ – for casting on

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

TIP FOR PICKING UP STS (applies to fig.1): (Yarn used in fig.1-3 is another quality – thicker to make picture clearer). Pick up the long, loose part under st on needle. When picking up tighten st on needle slightly.

Worked in a twisted ring from the middle of piece towards the sides - i.e. piece worked from top down and from bottom up at the same time. All measurements apply to the whole piece (and not from the middle towards the side).
Place circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 and 6.5 mm/US 10½ tog and cast on 151-169-187-199-217-235 sts with 1 thread Alpaca + 1 thread Kid-Silk (= 2 threads) – use the 2 needles to make cast on row elastic. Remove 1 needle and slip all sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7, sts on needle are now very loose.
Now pick up 1 new st in bottom edge of each st on needle without knitting the st on needle, but do not pick up in the first and the last st on needle (see fig.1) – NOTE: Move the sts to the end of the circular needle where you don't have the working yarn, pick up st with the other end of circular needle. When pick up is complete the circular needle will sit in a twisted ring - see fig.2 = 300-336-372-396-432-468 sts.
Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid front). Now work M.1 – beg with st sitting on point of needle = first st on cast on row – the st picked up in bottom edge of this st will automatically be at the point of needle later on round. After a couple of rounds the ring will become more evident - see fig.3. AT THE SAME TIME after 1 round in M.1 change to circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 and continue in M.1. When piece measures approx 24-24-27-27-30-30 cm / 9½"-9½"-10 5/8"-10 5/8"-11 3/4"-11 3/4" - finish after a full repeat of M.1 – insert a marker 135-153-171-183-201-219 sts after mid front (= marker A) and a marker 30 sts after marker A (= marker B). Work next round as follows: * K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1, P1, 1 YO, P1, 1 YO, P1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 22-25-28-30-33-36 times (3 sts now remain before marker A), K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1, * P3, K3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times (= between A and B), P1, 1 YO, P1, 1 YO, P1, * K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1, P1, 1 YO, P1, 1 YO, P1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 22-25-28-30-33-36 times (= end of round) = 480-540-600-640-700-760 sts. Continue in rib K5/P5, but work P3/K3 on the 30 sts between marker A and B.
When rib measures 4 cm / 1½'' bind off with K over K and P over P – the shawl measures approx 33-33-36-36-39-39 cm / 13"-13"-14 1/4"-14 1/4"-15 1/4"-15 1/4".
Mark the inside of shawl between marker A and B – this is mid back when shawl is worn.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K
= P

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 119-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (44)

Kathy Raine 19.08.2019 - 14:15:

I'm finally getting this pattern. Cat Bordhi has a MUCH easier cast-on. You need to do row 1 in pattern, and it won't look right until you have completed the first row "twice", that is when the row marker is on the needle, not on the cable,

Kathy Raine 16.08.2019 - 03:00:

2 needle cast-on is very difficult. The yarn doesn't "slide" or "give" so the cast on is extremely tight. I'm thinking to knit it straight and just put in a twist on the first circular row before joining. I can't return the yarn, am stuck making this pattern. Unless there is some secret to it, thanks.

DROPS Design 16.08.2019 kl. 09:27:

Dear Mrs Raine, this video shows how to cast on and work a möbius it may help you to vizualize how to do. Happy knitting!

BESSE 28.04.2019 - 11:38:

Bonjour Une autre petite question... Je suppose qu’après les tours avec les jetés il faut faire un rang en tricotant les mailles comme elles se présentent et en lâchant les jetés ?

DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 10:05:

Bonjour Mme Besse, après le tour des jetés, vous tricotez en côtes 5 m end/5 m env sauf les 30 mailles entre les marqueurs A et B où vous tricotez 3 m env/3 m end. Bon tricot!

Besse Isabelle 23.04.2019 - 18:38:

Bonjour Le modèle est magnifique !!! Si j’ai bien compris on relève les mailles une fois avec l’extrémité d’une aiguille et quand on est au milieu de l’ouvrage on relève avec l’autre extrémité de l’aiguille? Cordialement

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 20:29:

Bonjour Mme Besse! Regardez le tutorial video ICI. Bon tricot!

Sarah 15.12.2017 - 21:25:

The link isn't working for me. Thank you for replying so promptly. Sarah

DROPS Design 17.12.2017 kl. 20:08:

Hi Sarah, I edited the link and it should work properly now.

Sarah 15.12.2017 - 04:57:

Will this moebius cast on leave a row of holes in the middle of the finished project? I just watched the tutorial video and the cast on left a row of holes, looks like yarn overs, right in the middle. But I don't see the row of holes in the finished project as shown on your website. Thanks, Sarah

DROPS Design 15.12.2017 kl. 08:47:

Dear Sarah, there shouldn't be any holes in the middle, look at this video and read text below to manage to cast on the sts (remember to use the continental cast on technique, and maybe try to avoid too loose sts when casting on). Happy knitting!

Marcia Pereira 29.07.2011 - 20:45:

Gostaria de saber se vcs podem traduzir para portugues, ficaria mais facil para as diversas seguidoras brasileiras que seguem seu site. Parabens pela linda receita e obrigada pela atenção

Tuula 17.03.2010 - 09:30:

Missä viipyy ohje tähän malliin

Sabine Queck 19.02.2010 - 06:32:

Superschöner Schal - und bereits fertig für die Sommergarderobe.

DROPS Design 03.02.2010 - 17:23:

Elizabeth, por el momento no está disponible la traducción a español. Sin embargo, absolutamente todos los patrones tienen la versión en inglés, en caso te sea de utilidad.

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