DROPS / 114 / 19

Domino Tiles by DROPS Design

DROPS socks with Entrelac pattern in ”Fabel”. Foot worked in either Entrelac pattern or in stockinette st and rib.

Tags: entrelac, socks,
DROPS design: Pattern no FA-081

Size:
5/6½ - 7½/9 – 9½/10½ (US sizes)
35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43 (EU sizes)
3/4 – 5/6½ – 7/8 (Uk sizes)
Foot length: 22-24-27 cm /8¾”-9½”-10 5/8”
Leg length: approx 23-26-30 cm /9”-10¼”-11 ¾”

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150 g for all sizes color no 901, candy mix
or use: 150 g for all sizes color no 910, sea mist

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1 – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
ENTRELAC PATTERN:
See diagram D.1 and D.2 for rows, squares and knitting direction.

HEEL DECREASES:
Work stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME slip 1 st at the end of every row on a stitch holder. Continue until there are 11-11-12 sts on stitch holders each side and 12-15-16 sts left on needle.
Insert a marker in piece. Continue, AT THE SAME TIME work 1 st from stitch holders each side back on needle at the end of every row. NOTE! To avoid a hole pick up 2 sts between sts on needle and sts on stitch holder. On next row K tog the 3 new sts to 1 st. Continue like this until there are 34-37-40 sts on needle again. K 1 row from RS on all sts.
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LEG:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Make up 6 smaller balls to avoid too many thread ends.
Cast on 64-72-80 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 with Fabel. K 1 round and continue in rib K2/P2. When rib measures approx 3-4-5 cm / 1 1/8”-1½”-2” dec all K2 to K1 = 48-54-60 sts.
Now continue in ”squares”. All the squares are worked back and forth on needle in stockinette st and all sts are pick up from RS. See D.1.

Row 1, first Half Square (first row = RS):
Work 1 st, turn piece and work 1 st on return row. Work 2 sts, turn piece, work 2 sts on return row. Continue like this with 1 more st each time until you have worked return row on 8-9-10 sts. Work 8-9-10 sts from RS. Leave sts on needle.
Now work a total of 6 Half Squares in the same way round the sock = all sts in rib have been knitted.

Row 2, first Whole Square: Pick up 8-9-10 sts along the edge of the first half square. * Turn piece, work return row on the 8-9-10 sts, work 1 st from needle on the 6th half square = 9-10-11 sts. Turn piece, K2 tog, work remaining 7-8-9 sts = 8-9-10 sts *, repeat from *-* until all sts from the 6th Half Square have been knitted. Leave sts on needle, do not cut the thread.

Row 2, second Whole Square:
Beg a new ball. Beg mid between first and second Half Square. Pick up 8-9-10 sts along the edge of the second Half Square. Continue as described for first Whole Square from *-* until all sts from the first Half Square have been knitted.
Whole Square 3 to 6:
Like second Whole Square between all the Half Squares from Row 1 = a total of 6 Whole Squares.

Row 3 Whole Squares:
Beg with thread on the first Whole Square. Pick up 8-9-10 sts down along the edge of first Whole Square, work 1 st from second Whole Square = 9-10-11 sts. * Turn piece, P2 tog, work remaining 7-8-9 sts = 8-9-10 sts. Turn piece, work 8-9-10 sts and 1 st from second Whole Square = 9-10-11 sts *, repeat from *-* until all sts from second Whole Square have been knitted and there are 8-9-10 sts on needle. Leave sts on needle, do not cut the thread.
Now work Whole Squares in the round.

Work row 4 to row 8 with Whole Squares in the same way as before. See D-1 for rows, squares and knitting direction.
When there are a total of 8 rows with squares (includes the row with Half Squares at the beg) work 3 Half Squares as follows:
First Half Square:
Pick up 8-9-10 sts along the edge of the first square on row 8, work 1 st from the second square on the same row = 9-10-11 sts. Turn piece, P2 tog, work 6-7-8 sts, slip the last st on a stitch holder. Turn piece, work 7-8-9 sts, work 1 st from the second square, turn piece. P2 tog, work 5-6-7 sts, slip the last st on stitch holder. Continue like this until all sts from second square have been knitted and there are 8-9-10 sts on stitch holder.
Second and third Half Square:
Pick up sts and work Half Square in the same way as first Half Square. There are now 24-27-30 sts (3 x 8-9-10 sts) on stitch holder.
Pick up 1 st before sts on stitch holder, slip the first 8-9-10 sts on needle, pick up 1 st between the first and second Half Square, slip the next 8-9-10 sts from stitch holder back on needle, pick up 1 st between the second and third Half Square, slip the last 8-9-10 sts from stitch holder back on needle and pick up 1 st after sts on stitch holder = 28-31-34 sts on needle for heel. Turn piece and P 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 6 sts evenly on heel sts = 34-37-40 sts. Now work HEEL – see above.

FOOT WITH ENTRELAC PATTERN:
After heel P 1 row from WS on heel sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10 sts evenly = 24-27-30 sts.
Now work 3 Half Squares on heel sts (square 1, 2 and 3) in the same way as knitting Half Square on row 1, and 3 Whole Squares on upper foot (square 4,5 and 6) as before. Then work 5 rows with Whole Squares as before. See D-2 for rows, squares and knitting direction.
Now work 6 Half Squares in the same way as Half Squares before the heel. There are now 48-54-60 sts on stitch holder (6 x 8-9-10 sts). Pick up 1 st between the first and the last square, * work 8-9-10 sts from stitch holder back on needle, pick up 1 st between 2 squares * repeat from *-* until all sts on stitch holder have been worked back on needle = 54-60-66 sts (approx 4-5-6 cm / 1½’’-2’’-2 3/8’’ remain). Insert a marker each side with 27-30-33 sts on upper foot and 27-30-33 sts under foot. Now continue in stockinette st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of both markers as follows: Before K1 and marker: K2 tog. After marker and K1: K2 tog into back of loop. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 6-7-9 times and then on every 4th round 4 times = 14-16-14 sts left on needle. Cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

FOOT IN STOCKINETTE ST AND RIB:
After heel P 1 row from WS on heel sts = 34-37-40 heel sts. Slip sts on a stitch holder.
Work 3 Half Squares on upper foot (square 4, 5 and 6) in the same way as Half Squares before the heel = 24-27-30 sts on stitch holder (3 x 8-9-10 sts).
Slip the 34-37-40 heel sts back on needle, pick up 1 st between heel sts on needle and the first 8-9-10 sts on stitch holder on upper foot. Slip the first 8-9-10 sts from stitch holder back on needle. Pick up 1 st between sts on needle and sts on stitch holder on upper foot. Slip the next 8-9-10 sts from stitch holder back on needle. Pick up 1 st between sts on needle and sts on stitch holder on upper foot. Slip the last 8-9-10 sts from stitch holder back on needle and pick up 1 st between sts on needle and heel sts = 62-68-74 sts in total on needle.
Continue in the round on double pointed needles as follows: 35-39-44 stockinette sts, * P2, K2 *, on the next 24 sts, P2 and 1-3-4 stockinette sts.
NOTE! In size 7½/9 work the 3 stockinette sts at the end of round as follows: K1 and K2 tog (= 2 stockinette sts) = 62-67-74 sts.
Now continue in stockinette st and rib, AT THE SAME TIME dec each side as follows: K tog into back of loop the last 2 sts before the 26 rib sts on upper foot and K tog the 2 first sts after the 26 rib sts on upper foot. Dec on every other round a total of 5 times = 52-57-64 sts. Continue in stockinette st and 26 sts rib on upper foot until piece measures 18-19-21 cm / 7’’-7½’’-8¼’’ from marker on heel (= 4-5-6 cm / 1½’’-2’’-2 3/8’’ remain). Insert a marker each side with 26-28-32 sts on upper foot and 26-29-32 sts under foot. Continue in stockinette st on all sts. AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes each side of both markers as follows: Before K1 and marker: K2 tog. After marker and K1: K2 tog into back of loop. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 6-7-9 times and then on every 4th round 4 times = 12-13-12 sts left on needle. Cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.


This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 17.08.2009
New chart text added

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= square no on row
= Knitting direction
= sts are on needle
= work sts tog 2 by 2
= Row

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 114-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (42)

Doris Pascal 20.08.2018 - 14:48:

Bonjour, avez vous un tuto pour l'explication du dernier demi-carrée ? Merci pour ce magnifique patron

DROPS Design 20.08.2018 kl. 21:42:

Bonsoir Mme Pascal, verrez le video suivant: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=110&lang=fr. Bon travail!

Doris Pascal 20.08.2018 - 14:45:

J\\\'ai eu tellementt de plaisir à tricoter ce modèle (j\\\'en ai fait plusieurs paires) , par contre le seul que j\\\'ai un peu plus de difficultés pense c\\\'est le dernier demi-carrée. Avez vous un tuto pour l\\\'expliquer? Merci pour ce magnifique patron\\r\\nDoris

Jette Hoegh 03.07.2017 - 11:03:

Hej første omgang med de halve ruder har jeg lavet og så er mit spørgsmål om man kun skal lave en rude på næste omgang og derefter skifte til en ny farve og begynde på omgang 3

DROPS Design 05.07.2017 kl. 09:12:

Hej Jette, her ser du hvordan vi gør:

How to knit entrelac on straight needles from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Angéline Potvin 12.03.2015 - 21:38:

J'ai besoin d'aide pour le modèle DROPS 114-19. Dans les explications, au paragraphe "Pied avec point entrelacs" il est indiqué de tricoter 3 carrés entier du dessus du pîed (carrés 4, 5 et 6) comme avant. Comme avant quoi? Je voudrais avoir une référence (exemple Rang 3 carrés entiers) ou autre exemple que je peux retrouver sur les explications. Merci

DROPS Design 13.03.2015 kl. 09:39:

Bonjour Mme Potvin, pour le pied avec entrelacs, suivez le schéma D2 en bas de page, vous y trouverez les indications des carrés à tricoter par rang. Bon tricot!

Angéline Potvin 26.02.2015 - 20:10:

Quels sont les numéros des couleurs pour tricoter le modèle D-1 (océane). Merci

DROPS Design 27.02.2015 kl. 09:22:

Bonjour Mme Potvin, les 2 modèles se tricotent de la même façon (les diagrammes se rapportent à des étapes différentes des chaussettes) - sur la photo, celle de gauche est réalisée en coloris 901 et celle de droite en coloris 910. Bon tricot!

Moni 24.03.2010 - 11:29:

Kann ich mit diesem Muster auch einen Pullover stricken?

Åse Karin Fjellving 24.08.2009 - 11:27:

For noen flotte strømper! DE fikk jeg lyst til å strikke å gi i gave eller helst beholde dem selv!!

Nathalie 10.08.2009 - 15:00:

Je me suis beaucoup amusée à les faire ... en rose ! Merci !

Gitte 02.08.2009 - 09:23:

Hvor er de søde.

Yoke 19.07.2009 - 00:57:

Hvor er opskriften, jeg vil gerne strikke dem

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