DROPS jacket with round yoke and pattern on yoke in ”Silke Alpaca”. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS 113-17
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS SILKE ALPACA from Garnstudio
550-600-650-750-800-900 g colour no 1340, light beige

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) size 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS Buffalo horn buttons no 537: 6-7-7-7-8-8 pcs.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


Pattern instructions

Row 1: * P1, K1 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P1.
Row 2: K over P and P over K
Repeat row 2.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round):
K 1 round, P 1 round.

Because of the weight of the yarn all measurements should be made while the garment is hanging.

Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = cast off 3rd st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 7, 16, 26, 36, 46 and 56 cm.
SIZE M: 7, 15, 23, 31, 40, 49, and 58 cm.
SIZE L: 7, 15, 24, 33, 42, 51 and 60 cm.
SIZE XL: 7, 16, 25, 34, 43, 52 and 62 cm.
SIZE XXL: 7, 15, 23, 31, 39, 47, 55 and 64 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 7, 15, 23, 31, 39, 47, 55 and 64 cm.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 The diagram shows the pattern from the RS. See diagram for your size.
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 159-173-187-203-223-245 sts (includes 5 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Silke Alpaca. P 1 row from WS and continue in MOSS ST – see above – with 5 front band sts each side in GARTER ST – see above. Front bands are worked in garter st throughout. When piece measures 6 cm continue in stocking st with front band sts as before. Insert 2 markers in piece, 42-45-49-53-58-63 sts in from each side (back piece = 75-83-89-97-107-119 sts.) Remember BUTTONHOLES on right front band – see above. When piece measures 10 cm dec 1 st on each side of both markers (= 4 dec per row) and repeat the dec on every 9-9.5-10-10.5-11-11.5 cm a total of 3 times = 147-161-175-191-211-233 sts. Dec by K2 tog. Continue until piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm – SEE MEASUREMENT TIP! Now cast off 8 sts each side (= 4 sts on each side of marker) = 131-145-159-175-195-217 sts left on needle. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 49-51-51-55-57-59 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm with Silke Alpaca. Work 6 rounds garter st – see above. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under arm). When piece measures 10 cm inc 1 st on each side of marker and repeat the inc on every 9-4.5-2-1.5-1.5-1 cm a total of 2-3-5-6-7-8 times = 53-57-61-67-71-75 sts. When piece measures 23-23-22-22-21-21 cm (less for the larger sizes because of wider shoulder) cast off 4 sts on each side of marker for armhole = 45-49-53-59-63-67 sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve

Slip sleeves on the same circular needle size 4.5 mm as body piece where cast off for armholes = 221-243-265-293-321-351 sts. K 1 row from RS (with front bands as before), AT THE SAME TIME dec 11-13-15-3-11-21 sts evenly = 210-230-250-290-310-330 sts. K 1 row from WS and now continue in M.1 from RS (see diagram for your size) with 5 garter sts each side. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 there are 100-109-118-122-130-138 sts on row. K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-17-20-24-24-32 sts evenly = 92-92-98-98-106-106 sts. K 5 rows on all sts and cast off loosely.

Sew openings under arms. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.04.2009
Chart text:
Symbol 4 and 5 has been exchanged.
M.1 S+M+L: New row 19


symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = work 2 sts in 1 st
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1. psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = P2 tog on RS, K2 tog on WS
symbols = work 3 sts in 1 st as follows: P1, K1, P1
symbols = P3 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K
symbols = place thread in front of piece (= towards you) slip 1 st as if to P, place thread behind piece (= away from you).

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (62)

country flag Glenna Blomquist wrote:

I don't understand this correction - the symbols are not numbered? This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s. Updated online: 17.04.2009 Chart text: Symbol 4 and 5 has been exchanged. M.1 S+M+L: New row 19

25.02.2024 - 21:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Blomquist, the online pattern has already been updated, this means the' correction applies only if you printed the pattern before that day, if you did, you might have to print it again to be sure you get all informations right. Happy knitting!

26.02.2024 - 09:48

country flag Elizabeth Dolan wrote:

Is there a stitch count listed somewhere for this pattern? I am at the end of the second pattern section of M1 chart and seem to be out 3 stitches after decreasing (k2tog. K14 row). Would love to know how many stitches I should have on needles for this row. I am knitting the largest size.

25.07.2020 - 08:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Dolan, do not hesitate to add markers between each repeat this will help you to check the number of stitches on each row as in diagram - Diagram is repeated 16 times in total in size XXXL. Happy knitting!

29.07.2020 - 08:50

country flag Elizabeth Dolan wrote:

I have the correct St count for XXXL (330) starting M1 chart. I am doing kf&b as the increase but I cannot get the increases to work out with the chart. Do I do the increase on the 10th stitch? I wish there was a row by row stitch count.

22.07.2020 - 09:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Dolan, on first row in M.1 you will work diagram like this: (knit front and back 1st stitch, knit next 9 sts), repeat from (to) for 1 repeat in M.1 (= adding markers between each repeat can help). and repeat to the end of the row. You will first increase stitches then work and decrease as shown in diagram - read more about diagrams here). Happy knititng!

29.07.2020 - 08:47

Kira wrote:

Hello, it said my comment was too long so again: Chart M1 is there a decrease between row 11 and 12 as the row gets shorter in the graphic? Also row 13, p2tog purl 16, so a repeat of 18 st or p2tog at the start of row and then purl the rest of row? Same for row 15, k 15 st slip 1 stitch, repeat all 17 stitches? Or only a final slip 1 stitch at very end of row? Thank You!

18.10.2018 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kira, when working M.1 you will repeat the sts in M.1 as shown in diagram (you can insert a marker to separate each diagram on your needle so that you can always check the number of sts). You will then increase 2 sts in each M.1 on the first row. Then, on row 11 you will decrease 8 times but work only 4 yo's = you will decrease 4 sts in each repeat. On row 13, work: *P2 tog, P16*and repeat from *-* over each repeat. And so on for each row in M.1. Happy knitting!

18.10.2018 - 16:01

country flag Dominique wrote:

Bonjour, pour l\'empiècement, avant de commencer le diagramme il reste pour la taille L 250 mailles, les 10 mailles de bordure sont elles comprises dans ces 150 mailles \r\nmerci pour votre réponse \r\ncordialement

06.06.2018 - 08:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Dominique, les 10 m de bordure devant sont comprises dans les 250 mailles, mais vous ne devez pas diminuer au-dessus des 5 m de chaque côté, tricotez-les simplement comme avant. Bon tricot!

06.06.2018 - 10:08

country flag Rebecca wrote:

Would you be able to tell me the measurements for the sleeves if I wanted them long, to my wrists and not 3/4 length? Thank you!

16.01.2018 - 04:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rebecca, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to each individual request but you can adjust sleeve length to your own measurements getting help from similar patterns with same tension. Happy knitting!

16.01.2018 - 09:19

country flag Jessica wrote:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas bien l'EMPIECEMENT des manches. Auriez vous une vidéo pour m'aider ? Merci

28.09.2016 - 21:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Jessica, quand les manches sont faites, on les remet sur la même aiguille circulaire que le dos et les devants (cf vidéo ci-dessous) et on va tricoter 1 rang sur l'end en répartissant des dim, 1 rang end sur l'env puis on continue ainsi: 5 m point mousse, on répète M.1 en largeur jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 5 m, 5 m point mousse. Bon tricot!

29.09.2016 - 09:08

country flag Anja wrote:

Kan ik dit patroon ook breien van BRUSHED ALPACA SILK?

12.04.2016 - 15:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Anja. Ja, dat kan. Je kan hier lezen hoe je de hoeveelheid materiaal berekent en vergeet niet om een proeflapje te breien.

13.04.2016 - 16:40

Véro wrote:

Bonjour, Je trouve ce modèle très joli. Existe-t-il en français car moi et l'anglais ... heum heum ! Merci d'avance de la réponse. Véro

07.04.2016 - 19:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Vero, changez la langue du modèle en cliquant sur le menu déroulant sous la photo "Choose your language:English" et sélectionnez "Français". Bon tricot!

08.04.2016 - 08:32

Jessica wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis bloquée dès le début. Je ne comprend pas si les 223 mailles montées (je fais le xxl) comprennent le 5 mailles bordures ou je dois les rajouter ? Merci de votre réponse

02.09.2015 - 22:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Jessica, les mailles de bordure des devants de chaque côté sont comprises dans le nombre de mailles à monter. Bon tricot!

03.09.2015 - 09:18