DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Abril Kids

Knitted DROPS jacket with rib and raglan sleeve in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size 7 – 14 years.

DROPS 112-9
Size: 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 74-78-82-86 cm / 29 1/8”-30¾”-32¼”-33 7/8”
Full length: 46-49-52-55 cm / 18”-19 ¼”-20½”-21 5/8”

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250 g color no 0100, off-white
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-100-125 g color no 01, off-white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) size 6 mm / US 10 – or size needed to get 15 sts x 19 rows in stockinette st with 1 thread of each quality = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) size 3.5 mm/ US 4 – or size needed to get 20 sts x 27 rows in stockinette st with 1 thread of each quality = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTON no 513: 4-4-5-5 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = bind off 4th st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 7/8 years: 25, 29, 34 and 39 cm /9¾”, 11 3/8”, 13 3/8” and 15¼”
SIZE 9/10 years: 27, 32, 37 and 42 cm / 10 5/8”, 12½”, 14½” and 16½”
SIZE 11/12 years: 28, 32, 36, 40 and 45 cm / 11”, 12½”, 14¼”, 15¾” and 17¾”
SIZE 13/14 years: 30, 34, 38, 43 and 48 cm / 11 ¾”, 13 3/8”, 15”, 17” and 19”

KNITTING TIP:
If your knitting gauge is too tight, the raglan will be too short and the armhole too small. You may compensate for this by working 1 extra round without dec with regular intervals in between rounds with dec.

DECREASING TIP (applies to raglan):
Make all dec from the RS. Beg 2 sts before marker: K2 tog, marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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BODY PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 161-169-177-185 sts (includes 8 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 thread of each quality held together.
Continue as follows from RS: 2 garter sts, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, (= front band), 145-153-161-169 stockinette sts, and finish with P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, 2 garter sts (= front band).
Work 1 more row like this and continue as follows from RS: 2 garter sts, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, (= front band), rib K1/P1 on the next 144-152-160-168 sts and finish with K1 and front band (= 8 sts): P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, 2 garter sts.
Work 1 more row like this and now continue in stockinette st with front bands as before.
When piece measures 24-26-27-29 cm / 9½”-10¼”-10 5/8”-11 3/8” change to needle size 3.5 mm / US 4, P 1 row from WS and continue as follows from RS: 2 garter sts, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, (= front band), rib K1/P1 on the next 144-152-160-168 sts and finish with K1 and front band (= 8 sts): P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, 2 garter sts (= front band).
Remember BUTTONHOLES on right front piece – see above.
Insert 2 markers in piece, 44-46-48-50 sts in from each side (back piece = 73-77-81-85 sts).
When piece measures 31-33-35-37 cm / 12¼”-13”-13¾”-14½” bind off 8 sts each side for armhole (= 4 sts on each side of marker) = 145-153-161-169 sts. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 52-56-60-64 sts on double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 thread of each quality. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under arm).
Work 2 rounds stockinette st, 2 rounds rib K1/P1, and continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 20-21-21-21 cm / 8”-8¼”-8¼”-8¼” change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4, work 1 round stockinette st and continue in rib K1/P1.
When piece measures 28-30-31-32 cm / 11”-11¾”-12¼”-12½” bind off 4 sts on each side of marker = 44-48-52-56 sts.
Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE:
SEE KNITTING TIP! Slip sleeves on the same circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 as body piece where bind off for armholes = 233-249-265-281 sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between body piece and sleeves = 4 markers. Continue in rib with front bands as before. AT THE SAME TIME dec for raglan – SEE DECREASING TIP!
NOTE! Make the first 2 dec on body piece only and not on the sleeves. Dec on every 4th row a total of 4-3-2-2 times and then on every other row 14-17-20-22 times.
NOTE: On rows with no dec K 1 st on each side of markers from RS.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 40-43-46-49 cm / 15¾”-17”-18”-19¼” slip 12 sts each side on stitch holders for neck and bind off to shape the neckline towards mid front at the beg of every row each side: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 4 times.
When all dec are complete there are 57-57-57-57 sts on row.
Pick up 24-24-24-24 sts (incl sts on stitch holders) along neckline on each front piece = 105-105-105-105 sts. Work 6 rows garter st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 23-17-15-11 sts evenly on first row = 82-86-90-94 sts. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY: Sew opening under arms. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 16.03.2009
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) size 3.5 mm /US 4 – or size needed to get 20 sts x 27 rows in stockinette st with 1 thread of each quality = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (68)

country flag Den Herder Annie wrote:

Hallo, Het frakje wordt onderaan gebreden met breinaalden nr6. Bovenaan met nr 3,5 . Waarom zoveel verschil? Het oogt niet mooi zo los gebreden onderaan Alvast bedankt

23.03.2024 - 12:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Annie,

Dit is inderdaad om een losser en opener effect te creëren aan de onderkant.

24.03.2024 - 19:53

country flag Den Herder Annie wrote:

Beste, Ik kan niet begrijpen dat je eerst met naalden nr 6 breidt (wat trouwens veeeel te los is ) en bovenaan verder gaat met naalden nr 3,5. Kan je mij aub hierover meer uitleg geven? Alvast bedankt!

23.03.2024 - 12:02

country flag Tanja wrote:

Hallo, kann ich Kid Silk auslassen und nur mit Alpaka stricken? was muss ich dabei beachten?

16.11.2023 - 13:41

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Tanja, dann stricken Sie am besten mit 2 Fäden Alpaca, so bekommen Sie die richtige Maschenprobe und die fertigen Maßen wie in der Skizze. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.11.2023 - 08:04

country flag Helen wrote:

Like this garment

29.06.2022 - 07:15

country flag Heddie wrote:

Does the correction for needle size of 20 stitches and 27 rows = 10cmx10cm apply to body of the sweater if so , what would be the correct needle size for the yoke?

03.11.2021 - 21:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Heddie, the yoke is worked in rib with needle size 3,5 mm (tension = 20 sts x 27 rows stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm). Can this help? Happy knitting!

04.11.2021 - 06:51

country flag Ellinor wrote:

Skal hele jakken strikkes med dobbelt garn?

23.04.2020 - 09:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ja det ska den. Mvh DROPS Design

23.04.2020 - 10:52

country flag Lea Susan Andersen wrote:

Der står at man skal samle 24 masker op i begyndelsen af hver pind til hals.Men der er kun sat 12 masker af i hver side.Hvor skal de sidste masker tages op fra.

02.04.2020 - 11:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lea. Du har 12 masker på den ene siden, plukk opp 12 masker der du har felt til hals = 24 masker + 57 maskene du har på pinnen + 12 masker du plukker opp der du felte til hals på den andre siden + 12 masker på tråden = 105 masker. God Fornøyelse!

17.04.2020 - 10:05

country flag Lea Susan wrote:

Jeg har svært ved at forstå følgende.Når man har fulgt de første 3 linier i opskriften skal den næste pind som er en vrangpind strikkes som den 1.pind i opskriften.

10.03.2020 - 13:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, Lea, forkanterne strikkes på samme måde hele vejen op, men efter de 2 pinde ribstrik, så fortsættes der i glatstrik. God fornøjelse!

10.03.2020 - 13:14

country flag Lea Susan wrote:

Jeg er i tvivl om man kun skal strikke rib på retpindene og ikke på vrangpindene i kanten.

08.03.2020 - 20:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lea, Når du strikker rib, så skal du gøre det både fra retsiden og fra vrangen, dvs ret over ret og vrang over vrang. God fornøjelse!

09.03.2020 - 12:04

country flag Francoise Chaignepain wrote:

Je ne vois pas comment relever et reprendre mes mailles en attente pour le col étant donné que mon fil de pelote est à la fin du dos?

25.09.2019 - 18:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Chaignepain, pour avoir le même nombre de rangs de chaque côté de l'encolure, coupez le fil à la fin du dos (quand il reste 57 m), puis relevez 24 m le long du devant droit, tricotez les 57 m et relevez 24 m le long du devant gauche (sur l'endroit), au rang suivant, ajustez le nombre de diminutions indiqué pour la taille. Bon tricot!

26.09.2019 - 10:08