DROPS / 112 / 38

Little Emma by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk” with long sleeves. Size 7 to 14 years.

Size: 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 66-72-78-86 cm / 26”-28 3/8”-30¾”-33 7/8’’
Full length: 50-54-58-62 cm / 19¾”-21¼”-22¾”-24 3/8”

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
color no 6205, light blue: 200-200-250-250 g
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75-100-100-100 g color no 08, blue

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7 – or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stockinette st with 1 thread of each quality = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 – or size needed to get 19 sts x 25 rows in M.1 with 1 thread of each quality = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

DROPS SILVER BUTTON no 534: 3 pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS. The arrow indicates the beg of left front piece.

DECREASING TIP: Make all dec from the RS. Dec 1 st inside 6 front band sts by K OR P 2 tog – adjust to pattern.

BUTTONHOLES: Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:

SIZE 7/8 years: 27, 31 and 35 cm / 10 5/8”, 12¼” and 13¾”.
SIZE 9/10 years: 29, 33 and 37 cm / 11 3/8”, 13” and 14½”.
SIZE 11/12 years: 31, 36 and 40 cm / 12¼”, 14¼” and 15¾”.
SIZE 13/14 years: 33, 38 and 43 cm / 13”, 15” and 17”.
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BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 76-82-88-94 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 thread of each quality. K 3 rows (first row = WS) and continue in stockinette st.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures approx 26-28-30-32 cm / 10¼”-11”-11¾”-12½” K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 11 sts evenly = 65-71-77-83 sts. Change to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and K 7 rows. Now continue in M.1 (beg on the right side of diagram) with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 34-37-40-43 cm / 13 3/8”-14½”-15¾”-17” bind off for armhole each side. NOTE: When dec work sts not fitting into M.1 each side in stockinette st. Bind off each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 0-1-1-1 time and 1 st 2-3-3-3 times = 53-53-59-65 sts. Continue in pattern as before with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 48-52-56-60 cm / 19”-20½”-22”-23 5/8” work 4 rows garter st – see above – on the middle 27 sts with remaining sts as before. Now bind off the middle 15 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately = 19-19-22-25 sts. Continue in pattern with 6 garter sts towards neckline. Bind off when piece measures 50-54-58-62 cm / 19¾”-21¼”-22¾”-24 3/8”.

LEFT FRONT PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 44-47-50-53 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side and 6 front band sts towards mid front) on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 thread of each quality. K 3 rows (first row = WS) and continue in stockinette st with 6 front band sts in garter st. When piece measures approx 26-28-30-32 cm / 10¼”-11”-11¾”-12½” K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 7 sts evenly = 37-40-43-46 sts. Change to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and K 7 rows. Now continue as follows: 1 edge st, M.1 on the next 30-33-36-39 sts (beg by arrow) and 6 front band sts in garter st towards mid front.
When piece measures 34-37-40-43 cm / 13 3/8”-14½”-15¾”-17” bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 37-39-42-45 cm / 14½”-15¼”-16½”-17¾” work 2 rows garter st back and forth on the 6 front band sts only (to make the neckline neater). Continue on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st towards mid front – SEE DECREASING TIP – and repeat the dec on every other row a total of 12 times. When all dec for neckline and armhole are complete there are 19-19-22-25 sts left on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 50-54-58-62 cm / 19¾”-21¼”-22¾”-24 3/8”, bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Like left front piece, but mirrored – make sure that the pattern is identical on both sides mid front. Remember BUTTONHOLES – see above.

SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 34-36-38-40 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 thread of each quality. K 3 rows (first row = WS) and continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 5 cm / 2’’ inc 1 st each side, and repeat the inc on every 3-3-3.5-3.5 cm / 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1¼”-1¼” a total of 10-11-11-12 times = 54-58-60-64 sts. When piece measures 38-40-43-46 cm / 15”-15¾”-17”-18” bind off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 1-3-3-3 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 43-47-50-53 cm / 17”-18½”-19¾”-21”, now bind off 4 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 44-48-51-54 cm / 17¼”-19”-20”-21¼”.

ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 14.11.2016
New chart M.1 added

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, 1 YO
= indicates the beg of left front piece.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 112-38) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (40)

Barbara Bättig 15.08.2019 - 13:42:

Guten Tag Sie empfelen Kid-Silk zu verwenden. Könne Sie mir sagen wo her das Mohair stam? Wurde der Tierschutz beachetet? Danke für Ihr Feedback

Wivi Eriksson 28.01.2019 - 09:21:

Vilket/vilka garner kan man byta till för att få till en "somrigare" variant, alltså inget "hårigt" eller "ulligt" garn?

DROPS Design 28.01.2019 kl. 09:48:

Hej Wivi, du kan använda dubbel tråd DROPS Safran eller 1 tråd DROPS Paris eller Bomull-Lin som alla är sommargarner. Lycka till :)

Kathrina Fløttum 18.09.2018 - 21:44:

Kan man ikke bare strikke jakken, forstykkene og rygg samtidig, fram og tilbake? Hva er grunnen til at oppskriften viser til rygg og framstykker hver for seg i tre deler? Er det for å få den stødigere? Har det noe å si for fasongen? Mvh Kathrina

DROPS Design 19.09.2018 kl. 15:15:

Hej Kathrina, Vi prøver at lave vores modeller på lidt forskellige måder, så der er noget for alle. Du må gerne strikke stykkerne i et, men vi kan desværre ikke hjælpe dig med at skrive opskriften om. God fornøjelse!

Saskia 21.12.2016 - 11:45:

Ik vind dit een heel mooi patroon. Alles klopt gewoon. Ik heb deze al verschillende keren gebreid voor mijn kleindochters. Dus in verschillende maten. Het is een aanrader!

Saskia Vink 25.04.2016 - 22:40:

Ik begrijp het patroon niet helemaal. Het betreft de mindering bij de armsgaten. Er staat 1-1-1-1 x 4 st, 0-1-1-1 x2 st en 2-3-3-3 x 1 st.

DROPS Design 26.04.2016 kl. 13:31:

Hoi Saskia. Het betekent hoeveel je moet minderen per maat. Dus brei je maat 7/8 jaar minder je 1 x (keer) 4 st, 0 keer 2 en 2 keer 1 st aan beide zijkanten

Eira Ranua 16.04.2016 - 09:22:

Hej! Beställde 250 g Drops Alpaca och 100 g Drops Kid-Silk garn enligt mönsterbeskrivningen för 11/12 åringar. Synd - Kid-Silk är slut när bakstycket och knappa v. framstycket blivit färdiga! Nu måste jag betala dubbla postkostnader för en ny garnbeställning...

Heidi 21.01.2016 - 16:40:

Hejsa :) Jeg har lige købt garn til denne lækre cardigan og undrer mig lidt over at den ikke er strikket i ét stykke indtil ærmegabet. Hvis man udelader kantmaskerne i siderne, vil mønsteret så ikke kunne strikkes frem og tilbage på en rundpind indtil ærmegabet? Eller er der en grund til at den er delt i 2 forstykker og ryg? Er vild med opskrifterne fra Drops :). Tak. Mvh. Heidi

DROPS Design 22.01.2016 kl. 15:59:

Hej Heidi. Jo, det tror jeg sagtens du kan. God fornöjelse med den.

Vero 03.11.2015 - 15:09:

Bonjour, je pense que le diagramme M1 de ce modèle est à revoir. Car si on le suit à la "lettre" on se retrouve au 6ème rang du diagramme, sur l'envers du tricot... enfin je pense. Merci pour votre aide et tous vos jolis modèles. Véronique

DROPS Design 03.11.2015 kl. 15:30:

Bonjour Véronique et merci, votre question a bien été transmise à nos stylistes qui vont revérifier. Bon tricot!

Anita Leitz 31.10.2014 - 19:43:

Sehr geehrte Damen und Herren, Sie empfehlen für dieses Modell die Alpaca- Wolle von Drops. Die habe ich mir auch gekauft. Sie geben Stricknadeln mit Nr. 4 und 4,5 an. Auf der Alpaca wolle steht aber eine Nadelstärke von 2,5 - 3,5. Mit welcher Nadelstärke soll ich diese Modell nun stricken ?? Ich freue mich auf Ihre Rückantwort und verbleibe mit freundlichen Grüssen Anita Leitz

DROPS Design 01.11.2014 kl. 10:27:

Sie benötigen für das Modell ja zusätzlich zur Alpaca noch Kid-Silk, Sie stricken also durchweg zusammen mit 2 Fäden, Alpaca + Kid-Silk. Daher ergibt sich die dickere Nadelstärke. Sie müssen sich aber grundsätzlich bei jedem Modell an die Maschenprobe halten und diese immer einhalten, es kann also sein, dass Sie eine etwas andere Nadelstärke als angegeben benötigen, je nachdem, wie fest oder locker Sie stricken. Die angegebene Nadelstärke ist immer nur ein Richtwert.

Sofia Altini 10.03.2014 - 20:58:

I would apreciate a better explanation for M1 thank you.

DROPS Design 11.03.2014 kl. 08:51:

Dear Mrs Altini, in M.1, 1 square = 1 st x 1 row. Diagram shows you the pattern seen from RS, start at the bottom corner on the right side (or at the arrow as stated) and read towards the left from RS, and on WS rows, read from left towards right. Happy knitting!

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