DROPS Baby / 18 / 17

Wind and Waves by DROPS Design

Set of knitted jacket in 2 threads DROPS Fabel and pants in 1 thread DROPS Alpaca for baby and children

  • Wind and Waves / DROPS Baby 18-17 - Set of knitted jacket in 2 threads DROPS Fabel and pants in 1 thread DROPS Alpaca for baby and children
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
JACKET:
Bust: 52-56-64 (68-76) cm [20½”-22”-25¼” (26¾”-30”)]
Full length: 27-29-33 (37-40) cm [10 5/8”-11 3/8”-13” (14½”-15¾”)]
PANTS:
Waist: 48-50-52 (56-58) cm [19”-19¾”-20½” (22”-22¾”)]
Full length: 36-42-46 (52-59) cm [14¼”-16½”-18” (20½”-23¼”)].

Materials:
JACKET: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150-200-200 (250-250) g color no 910, sea mist.
PANTS: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-100-150 (150-200) g color no 6205, light blue.

JACKET:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm [24’’]) size 5 mm [US 8] –or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 2 threads Fabel = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm [24’’]) size 4 mm [US 6]
DROPS WOODEN BUTTON no 513: 5-5-5 (6-6) pcs.

PANTS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm [16’’]) size 2.5 mm [US 1] – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st with 1 thread Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
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100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JACKET:

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

BUTTONHOLES: Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 1/3 months: 5, 9, 14 and 19 cm [2”, 3½”, 5½”, 7½”]
SIZE 6/9 months: 5, 10, 15 and 20 cm [2”, 4”, 6”, 8”]
SIZE 12/18 months: 5, 11, 17 and 23 cm [2”, 4 3/8”, 6¾”, 9”]
SIZE 2 years: 5, 11, 16, 21 and 27 cm [2”, 4 3/8”, 6 ¼”, 8 ¼”, 10 5/8”]
SIZE 3/4 years: 5, 11, 17, 23 and 29 cm [2”, 4 3/8”, 6¾”, 9”, 11 3/8”].
NOTE: the last buttonhole is made on neckline.

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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 104-112-124 (132-144) sts (includes 5 front band sts each side, worked in garter st throughout) on circular needle size 4 mm [US 6] with 2 threads Fabel. P 1 row from WS.
Work next row as follows from RS: 5 garter sts, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain, K2, 5 garter sts.
Continue in rib like this until piece measures 4 cm [1½”]. Change to circular needle size 5 mm [US 8], K 1 row with front band sts in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6 sts evenly on row (do not dec on front band sts) = 98-106-118 (126-138) sts. Insert 2 markers 27-29-32 (34-37) sts in from each side (= 44-48-54 (58-64) sts between markers on back piece). Continue in stockinette st with 5 garter sts each side towards mid front.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5 cm [2’’] make buttonhole on right front band – SEE ABOVE.
When piece measures 16-17-20 (23-25) cm [6¼”-6¾”-8” (9”-9¾”)] divide the piece in 2 by markers and complete front and back pieces separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 44-48-54 (58-64) sts. Now cast on new sts each side for sleeves at the end of every row: 3 sts 2-1-3 (1-2) times, 5 sts 1-2-1 (2-2) times, 7 sts 1-1-1 (2-2) times and then 9-10-11 (14-16) sts 1 time = 98-108-118 (140-156) sts. When piece measures 25-27-31 (35-38) cm [9¾”-10 5/8”-12¼” (13¾”-15”)] bind off the middle 16-18-18 (20-20) sts for neck and complete each side separately. Work 2 rows on shoulder/sleeve sts and bind off loosely.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 27-29-32 (34-37) sts. Continue in stockinette at with front band in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts for sleeve at side as described for back piece = 54-59-64 (75-83) sts. When piece measures 23-25-28 (32-35) cm [9”-9¾”-11” (12½”-13¾”)] slip 5-6-6 (7-7) sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 2 times = 41-45-50 (60-68) sts left on shoulder/sleeve. Continue until piece 27-29-33 (37-40) cm [10 5/8”-11 3/8”-13” (14½”-15¾”)], and bind off loosely.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored. Remember buttonholes!

ASSEMBLY:
Sew upper arm seams with duplicate sts from RS. Sew under arm seams in the same way.

NECKLINE:
Pick up approx 52 to 65 sts (including sts on stitch holders) round neckline on needle size 4 mm [US 6] with 2 threads Fabel. K 4 rows, AT THE SAME TIME after 1 row make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on front band. Bind off from WS.
Sew on buttons.

CUFF:
Pick up 32-36-36 (40-40) sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm [US 6] with 2 threads Fabel round sleeve edge. P 1 round, K 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. Bind off when cuff measures 5 cm [2’’]. Repeat round the other sleeve edge.
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PANTS:

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows 3 sts before marker: K2 tog, K1.
Dec as follows after marker: K1, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
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LEG:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
LOOSELY cast on 64-68-72 (76-80) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm [US 1] with 1 thread Alpaca. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = inside of leg. Work 8-8-9 (9-10) cm [3”-3”-3½” (3½”-4”)] rib, K2/P2. Continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-8-10 (12-12) sts evenly = 56-60-62 (64-68) sts.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 9-10-11 (11-12) cm [3½”-4”-4 3/8” (4 3/8”-4¾”)] inc 1 st on both sides of marker, and repeat the inc on every 3-4-5 (6-8) round a total of 8 times = 72-76-78 (80-84) sts. When piece measures 16-20-23 (25-32) cm [6 ¼”-8”-9” (9¾”-12½”)] divide the piece in 2 on the inside of leg and continue back and forth on needle (to make it easier to get both legs on the same circular needle later). Cast on 1 new st each side for seam = 74-78-80 (82-86) sts. When piece measures 18-22-25 (29-34) cm [7”-8¾”-9¾” (11 3/8”-13 3/8”)] bind off 3 sts each side = 68-72-74 (76-80) sts. Put piece aside and work the other leg in the same way.

PANTS:
Slip both legs on the same circular needle size 2.5 mm [US 1] = 136-144-148 (152-160) sts. Insert 1 marker mid front and 1 marker mid back. Continue in stockinette st in the round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of marker mid front – SEE DECREASING TIP – and repeat the dec on every other row a total of 6 times = 124-132-136 (140-148) sts. When piece measures 29-35-38 (43-50) cm [11 3/8”-13 ¾”-15” (17”-19¾”)] inc 24-24-24 (28-28) sts evenly on round = 148-156-160 (168-176) sts. Continue in rib, K2/P2, for 7-7-8 (9-9) cm [2¾”-2¾”-3 1/8” (3½”-3½”)]. Bind off loosely in rib.
Pants measures approx 36-42-46 (52-59) cm [14¼”-16½”-18” (20½”-23¼”)].

ASSEMBLY:
Sew split on the inside of leg inside 1 edge st and sew tog opening between legs.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 18-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Guri 01.05.2021 - 01:11:

Bakstykket skal strikkast 27 cm +2 omg, og framstykket 29 cm (6 mnd). Stemmer det, eller skal det vera + 2 cm på bakstykket? Gjeld alle str.

user icon DROPS Design 03.05.2021 kl. 14:15:

Hei Guri. Ja, det stemmer. Da slipper du å få monteringssømmen midt oppå skuldrene. mvh DROPS design

country flag Susanne Cooper 15.02.2021 - 15:34:

Hallo, da ich noch einen Rest von der Alpaca Boucle Wolle habe, würde ich dieses Modell gerne mit dieser Wolle stricken. Können Sie mir bei der Umrechnung helfen. Ich möchte die Jacke in der Größe 62/68 anfertigen. Gruß Susanne

user icon DROPS Design 16.02.2021 kl. 08:45:

Liebe Frau Cooper, hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen, und wie man die neue Garnmenge kalkuliert. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Mary 15.02.2019 - 21:50:

Hello. I was looking for a pattern to make a baby sweater (for a boy), The yarn I have is Bernat Baby Coordinates, sports weight. Can I use it for this pattern? I'm making this for a gift and would appreciate if you could answer right away. Thanks!

user icon DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 08:59:

Dear Mary, We are able to provide free patterns thanks to our yarns sold throughout the world. You will therefore understand that we can only recomand you to contact your DROPS Store for any further help & assistance. Thank you for your comprehension.

country flag Mareen 10.02.2019 - 12:31:

Wenn auf beiden Seiten des Markierubgsfadens Maschen aufgenommen werden sollen, nehme ich dann 2 Maschen aus demselben Querfaden auf? Oder nehme ich eine Masche vor dem Faden auf stricke dann die Masche nach dem Faden und nehme danach noch eine Masche auf? Der Markierungsfaden liegt ja zwischen 2 Maschen nicht um eine Masche herum. Vielen Dank!

user icon DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 09:58:

Liebe Mareen, für die Zunahmen können Sie so stricken: die Runde bis 1 Masche vor dem Markierungsfaden übrig ist, 1 Masche zunehmen (z.B mit 1 Umschlag), die 2 nächste Masche stricken (Markierungsfaden liegt zwischen diese 2 Maschen), 1 Masche zunehmen (z.B. mit 1 Umschlag). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Charlotte 24.11.2018 - 20:32:

I mangler månederne 3-6... Så jeres størrelser skal vel rykkes en gang?

user icon DROPS Design 26.11.2018 kl. 11:11:

Hei Charlotte. I de eldre katalogene er størrelsene delt inn sånn, om du ser på neste størrelse er det også et sprang fra 6/9 og 12/18 mnd. Men om du tar en titt på målskissen nederst er det ikke mange centimeterne som skiller de to størrelsene så kanskje en av dem kan passe likevel? God fornøyelse

country flag Clara 16.02.2018 - 18:27:

Für die Manschetten: da steht beim Maschen aufnehmen was von inkl. Maschen vom Hilfsfaden - wo kommt dieser Hilfsfaden plötzlich her? Der war vorher für diese Stelle nie erwähnt?

user icon DROPS Design 19.02.2018 kl. 08:36:

Liebe Clara, Anleitung wird korrigiert, für die Manschetten nehmen Sie einfach die Maschen am Ärmel, es sind keine Maschen auf Hilfsfaden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Clara 16.02.2018 - 18:22:

Für die Halsblende: Wenn da 4 R. re. steht, ist dann jeweils hin und zurück rechts gemeint, also eigentlich kraus rechts im Ergebnis? Oder glatt rechts, also hin re., zurück li.?

user icon DROPS Design 19.02.2018 kl. 08:28:

Liebe Clara, mit 4 Reihe rechts bekommen Sie krausrippen, dh 2 Krausrippen für den Hals. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Clara 01.02.2018 - 21:15:

Leider sind die Anleitungen doch unklarer in ihrer Beschreibung als immer beworben. :( Präzisere und kleinteiligere Schritte würden sehr helfen. Auch wenn es um gleichmäßige Zu- oder Abnahme geht, das ist ein Gefriemel, weil man gar nicht weiß, wo man am besten damit anfängt, warum nicht dazu schreiben "Ab/Zunahme bei M x/y/z"?

user icon DROPS Design 02.02.2018 kl. 09:43:

Liebe Clara, hier können Sie lesen, wie man gleichmäßig verteilt ab- bzw zunehmen kann. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Clara 01.02.2018 - 21:14:

Dann wird noch der Begriff "Blendem" und Blendenm" benutzt - sind das Tippfehler, oder was soll das bedeuten? (Sorry, es gab wohl eine Zeichenbegrenzung, so dass diese Frage nicht mehr in den anderen Kommentar mit rein passte.)

user icon DROPS Design 02.02.2018 kl. 08:46:

Liebe Clara, sicher ein Tippfehler, das schauen wir noch mals, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Clara 01.02.2018 - 21:13:

Ich dachte erst, bei der Jackenanleitung ist gemeint, dass von unten der gesamte Teil, also beide Vorderseiten und Rückenteil in einem Stück bis unter die Ärmel gestrickt werden, aber die Angabe, dass die Teilung bei 16cm (kleinste Größe) stattfinden soll, passt überhaupt nicht zu den 27cm, die auf der Zeichnung angegeben sind. Können Sie das bitte präzisieren?

user icon DROPS Design 02.02.2018 kl. 08:45:

Liebe Clara, so wird sie auch gestrickt, aber wenn die Arbeit 16 cm mist, wird man die Arbeit teilen, um jedes Teil separat stricken, und die Ärmel auf beiden Seiten anschlagen. Das Armloch ist 11 cm in der 1. Größe + 16 cm = 27 cm. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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