DROPS Baby / 16 / 13

Sweet Pixie by DROPS Design

Knitted bonnet for baby and children in 2 threads DROPS Alpaca

Tags: bonnets, hats, headwear,
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Head circumference: 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm [16”-17”-18” (19”-20”)].
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes color no 3140, light pink
50 g for all sizes color no 3720, violet

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm [16’’]) size 5 mm [US 8] – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm [US 7].

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INCREASING TIP: Inc 1 st inside 1 edge st by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
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EARFLAP:
Worked back and forth on 2 double pointed needles in garter st – SEE ABOVE.
Cast on 4 sts on double pointed needle size 5 mm [US 8] with 1 thread of each color. Work garter st back and forth on needle, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st each side on the 3rd row – SEE INCREASING TIP- and repeat the inc on every other row a total of 7-8-9 (10-11) times = 18-20-22 (24-26) sts. After the last inc piece measures approx 5-5.5-6 (6.5-7) cm [2”-2¼”-2 3/8” (2½”-2¾”)], slip sts on a stitch holder and make another earflap in the same way.

HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle and double pointed needles.
Beg mid back as follows: Cast on 6-6-5 (5-4) sts with 1 thread of each color on circular needle size 5 mm [US 8], work 1 earflap in on needle (= 18-20-22 (24-26) sts), cast on 17-18-18 (19-20) sts (= front), work the other earflap in on needle (= 18-20-22 (24-26) sts) and cast on 6-6-5 (5-4) sts = 65-70-72 (77-80) sts on round. K 1 round, P 1 round and continue in stockinette st.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 7-7-9 (11-13) cm [2¾”-2¾”-3½” (4 3/8”-5 1/8”)] mid front insert 5-5-6 (7-8) markers in piece with 13-14-12 (11-10) sts between each. On next round dec 1 st to the left of all markers by K2 tog. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 11-12-11 (10-9) times = 10-10-6 (7-8) sts left on round. NOTE: change to double pointed needles when sts no longer fit circular needle. After the last round with dec K2 tog all the way round. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.
Hat measures approx 17-18-19 (20-21) cm [6¾”-7”-7½” (8”-8¼”)] mid front.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border with crochet hook size 4.5 mm [US 7] and 2 threads violet round the opening (incl round earflaps) as follows: * 1 sc, 2 ch, skip 1 cm [3/8’’] *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.

TIE STRINGS:
Cut 5 threads of each color measuring 75 cm [30’’] each (= 10 threads). Twist them hard, pull threads through the first garter st row on earflap, fold threads double and let them twist again. Tie a knot at the end. Repeat for the other earflap.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 16-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

Diana 11.11.2020 - 02:52:

Loved the pattern! I made some mods: I did a 1x1 ribbing after I connected the earflaps, used a backward yarn over instead of regular so I didn't have to knit through the back, did icords for the ties and the top with a little knot.

Alina Rizzo 06.05.2020 - 21:27:

Creio que a tradução em português e também em ingestão estão incompletas. Alguém pode verificar por gentileza? Grata

DROPS Design 15.05.2020 kl. 10:59:

Obrigado pelo seu interesse nos nossos modelos! As explicações estão completas, tanto em português como em inglês. Deve descer pela página para ver as explicações por inteiro, bem como vídeos que ensinam várias técnicas para a ajudar a fazer esta touca. Bom tricô!

Anja 13.11.2018 - 06:46:

Kun je dit patroon met elk soort garen maken? Wil graag van alpaca& zijde. Een wat dunnere.

DROPS Design 13.11.2018 kl. 08:27:

Dag Anja,

Ja hoor, DROPS BabyAlpacaSilk is hier heel geschikt voor.

Sigrid Agathos 04.11.2017 - 08:36:

Guten Morgen, Ich möchte diese sehr schöne Mütze gerne in Baby Merino von Drops stricken. Wie muss ich Maschenzahl etc. berechnen? Vielen Dank! Sigrid Agathos

DROPS Design 06.11.2017 kl. 09:21:

Liebe Frau Agathos, gerne können Sie hier Baby Merino anstatt Alpaca stricken, und zwar mit 2 Fäden Baby Merino (= 2 Fäden Alpaca) - hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Borghs 20.09.2017 - 21:54:

In de beschrijving voor de oorflap staat dat je in totaal 7x moet vermeerderen in 3de naald = 21 naalden en 5 cm hoog is. Ik kom aan 7 cm. Proeflapje klopte . Wat nu ?

DROPS Design 24.09.2017 kl. 10:29:

Hallo Borghs, 2 cm is in dit geval wel een groot verschil. De stekenverhouding die in het patroon staat gaat over tricotsteek, terwijl de oorflap in ribbelsteek gebreid wordt. Het is denk ik het beste om op eigen inzicht de oorflap op maat te maken. Aan de hand van de oorflap die je nu gemaakt hebt, kun je uitrekenen hoe vaak je moet meerderen om hem goed te krijgen. (Waarschijnlijk om de 2 naalden meerderen ipv om de 3.)

Mary 25.06.2017 - 22:48:

Please can you confirm what size needles I should use. The yarn suggests 2.5 - 3.5mm but the pattern says 5mm? Thanks

DROPS Design 26.06.2017 kl. 02:42:

Dear Mary, thank you for your question. The piece knitted with two color of the Alpaca yarn held together, and that is the reason for the thicker needles used. So, you should use the needles suggested by the pattern, However, since every person knits slightly differently, you should also always do a gauge swatch, and wash it, and check the stitch cound, and adjust the neeedle sice accordigly, if necessary. I hope this helped. Happy Knitting!

Sibel 02.11.2015 - 21:01:

Bei dem Setzen der Markierungsfäden, fang ich da mit dem 1. Markierungsfaden in Masche 1 an oder setz ich den ersten bei Masche 13? Danke und Gruss, Sibel

Annabelle 25.09.2015 - 06:54:

Je réalisé ce bonnet pour la quatrième fois il rend très bien.J en ai fait de variantes avec torsades et le dernier au point de treillage.Le modèle est très rapide merci à vous.

Annabelle 24.09.2015 - 22:48:

Je réalisé ce bonnet pour la quatrième fois il rend très bien.J en ai fait de variantes avec torsades et le dernier au point de treillage.Le modèle est très rapide merci à vous.

Maggie Odonnell 15.09.2015 - 03:31:

My pattern states for the crochet border : 1dc, 2 ch, slip 1 cm - on line pattern is 1 sc - I guess the single crochet is correct?

DROPS Design 15.09.2015 kl. 10:04:

Dear Mrs Odonnell, crochet terminology is different in UK-English and US-English, so that 1 sc (= US-terminology) is 1 dc (= Uk-terminology), see also here. Happy knitting!

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