DROPS / 99 / 5

Artemis by DROPS Design

DROPS dress or skirt crochet in a “mussel” pattern made with “Alpaca” and “Cotton Viscose”. Sizes S - XXL

Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL
Finished measurements at bust: 29 1/8”-31½”-36 ¼”-39 3/8”-42½”
Full length: 38 ¼”-40”-41 3/8”-43 3/8”-44½”

Materials:DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 g color no. 1101, white
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
350-400-400-450-500 g color no. 01, white

DROPS crochet hook size 4.5 mm [US 7] or the size needed to obtain the correct crochet gauge.

Crochet gauge: 14 dc x 7 rows using hook size 4.5 mm [US 7] and 1 thread of each quality = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’]. 1 repeat of the mussel pattern measures approx. 11 cm [4 3/8’’] in the width.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Crochet info: Substitute the first dc on each row/round with 3 ch and substitute the first tr on each row/round with 4 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in the 3rd/4th ch from previous round.

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagrams are seen from the RS.

Decreasing tip:
Crochet 2 st tog. to 1 st. Crochet 1 dc but wait with the last pull through (=2 sts on hook), then crochet the next dc but for the last pull through pull through all sts on hook – now 1 dc has been dec.

Measurement tip 1: Because of the weight of the yarn, all measurements should be made whilst the garment is hanging, otherwise it will be to long when it is worn.
Measurement tip 2: The garment is very elastic. The measurement diagram therefore gives the measures of both the garment and the corresponding body measures. The body measures are marked with * and ** on the measurement diagram.

The dress is crochet from the top and down. Beg. to crochet the front and back piece for the top part, then put the 2 pieces tog. and crochet the bottom part round beg. at the side.

Back piece:
- Crochet the right shoulder as follows:
Crochet loosely 16-16-18-19-19 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) with 1 thread of each quality using hook size 4.5 mm [US 7]. Crochet the next row as follows: 1 dc in the 4th ch, *skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the following 3 ch*, repeat from *-* until 4-4-2-3-3 ch remains, skip 1 ch and crochet 1 dc in each of remaining 3-3-1-2-2 ch = 11-11-12-13-13 dc. Continue with 1 dc in each dc until the work measures 6 cm [2 3/8’’] – read crochet info. On the next row inc 1 dc as follows: crochet 2 dc in the last dc towards the neck. Turn and crochet back = 12-12-13-14-14 dc. Put work aside.
- Crochet left shoulder as follows: Crochet as right shoulder but reverse.
- Back piece: Start to crochet at the side on the right shoulder, crochet 1 dc in each dc. Then crochet 22-24-26-26-28 ch. Then continue to crochet 1 dc in each dc from the neck towards the side of the left shoulder. Turn and crochet back over all dc/ch = 46-48-52-54-56 dc on row. Continue with 1 dc in each dc until the work measures 10-11-12-13-14 cm [4”-4 3/8”-4 ¾”-5 1/8”-5½”]. Now inc. for the arm holes as follows: Crochet ch’s at the end of each row: 1-1-1-2-3 ch 1 time and 1-1-2-2-3 ch 1 times (on the next row crochet dc in the new ch) = 50-52-58-62-68 dc. Crochet 1 row with dc. Cut the thread.
Crochet 1-2-3-4-4 ch before continuing with dc over the back piece and finish the row at the other side with 1-2-3-4-4 ch = 52-56-64-70-76 dc. Crochet 1 row with dc in each dc/ch. The work now measures approx. 17-18-19-20-21 cm [6 ¾”-7”-7½”-8”-8 ¼”].
Cut the thread and put the work aside.

Front piece:
- Crochet the right shoulder as follows:
Crochet loosely 16-16-18-19-19 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) using hook size 4.5 mm [US 7] and 1 thread of each quality. On the next row crochet as follows: 1 dc in the 4th ch, *skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch*, repeat from *-* until 4-4-2-3-3 ch remains, skip 1 ch and crochet 1 dc in each of remaining 3-3-1-2-2 ch = 11-11-12-13-13 dc. Continue with 1 dc in each dc until the piece measures 6 cm [2 3/8’’] – read crochet info. On the next row inc. towards the neck as follows: crochet 2 dc in 1 dc towards the neck - on each row a total of 7-8-9-9-10 times. At the same time when the piece measures 10-11-12-13-14 cm [4”-4 3/8”-4 ¾”-5 1/8”-5½”] inc. for arm holes towards the side on every other row as follows: Crochet ch’s at the end of each other row: 1-1-1-2-3 ch 1 time, 1-1-2-2-3 ch 1 time and 1-2-3-4-4 ch 1 time. When all inc. are completed there are 21-23-27-30-33 dc in total on row. The work measures 16-17-18-19-20 cm [6 ¼”-6 ¾”-7”-7½”-8”]. Cut the thread and put work aside.
- Crochet the left shoulder as follows:
Crochet as right shoulder but reverse. When all inc. are completed (= 21-23-27-30-33 dc) crochet 1 row from the armhole towards the neck, at the end of row crochet 10 ch.
- Front piece: Continue to crochet over the right front (from neck towards the armhole) = 52-56-64-70-76 dc/ch in total on row. Insert a marker (= underneath the sleeve), and measure the work from here onwards.

Top part: Now the front part is put tog. Crochet around from here onwards. Crochet over the back piece (from right front arm hole towards the left front armhole) = 104-112-128-140-152 dc in total on round.
Continue to crochet around until the piece measures 8-9-10-11-12 cm [3 1/8”-3½”-4”-4 3/8”-4 ¾”] from the marker. On the next round dec. 10 dc evenly distributed – read decreasing tip = 94-102-118-130-142 dc. Continue round with 1 dc in each dc until the work measures 11-12-13-14-15 cm [4 3/8”-4 ¾”-5 1/8”-5½”-6”] from marker. On the next round dec. 6-6-14-10-10 dc evenly distributed = 88-96-104-120-132 dc. Continue to crochet until the piece measures 14-15-16-17-18 cm [5½”-6”-6 ¼”-6 ¾”-7”] from the marker – read measurement tip 1.

Net-pattern: Insert 2 new markers in the work, one at the beg. of round and one after 44-48-52-60-66 dc. Now the upper top part is finish and continue to crochet over the lower top part in net-pattern as follows:
1st round: 3 ch (= 1dc) *1 ch, skip over 1 dc, 1 dc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch and a sl st in the 3rd ch from beg. of round.
2nd round: 3 ch (= 1 dc) *1 ch, 1 dc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch and a sl st in the 3rd ch from beg. of round.
3rd round: 4 ch (= 1 tr), *1 ch, 1 tr in the next dc*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch and a sl st in the 4th ch from beg. of round.
4th round: 4 ch (= 1 tr), 1 ch, 1 tr in the next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in the same tr, *1 ch, 1 tr in the next tr* , repeat from *-* until the marker at the side. Now crochet 1 ch, 1 tr in the next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in the same tr . Then continue from *-* before finishing with 1 ch and a sl st in the 4th ch from beg. of round. (there are now inc. 2 ch-loops).
Crochet the 3rd and the 4th round 2 more times and then the 3rd round 2 times and the 2nd round 2 times = 50-54-58-66-72 ch-loops. The piece measures approx. 36-37-38-39-40 cm [14 ¼”-14½”-15”-15 ¼”-15 3/4’’] from the marking thread underneath the arm. Insert 2 new marking threads, one at the beg. of round and one after 25-27-29-33-36 ch-loops (= mid sides). Continue to measures from here onwards.

Hip part: On the next row crochet as follows:
1st round: 3 ch (= 1 dc), *1 dc in the ch loop, 1 dc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* and finish with a dc in the ch-loop and a sl st in the 3rd ch from beg. of round = 100-108-116-132-144 dc.
2nd round: 3 ch (= 1dc) continue to crochet 1 dc in each dc, but crochet 2 dc in 1 dc before and after the marker. (inc of 4 dc). Finish with a sl st in the 3rd ch from beg. of round.
3rd round: 3 ch (=1 dc), now crochet 1 dc in each dc. Finish with a sl st in the 3rd ch at beg. of round. Now crochet 2nd and 3rd round 3 times = 116-124-132-148-160 dc in total on round. Continue with 1 dc in each dc until the piece measures 17-18-19-20-21 cm [6 ¾”-7”-7½”-8”-8 ¼”] from the marker - read measurement tip 1. On the next round inc. 28-20-30-32-38 dc evenly distributed = 144-144-162-180-198 dc in total on round.

Mussel pattern: Crochet chart M.1 (beg. from the Start arrow in diagram) as going along on round (= 8-8-9-10-11 mussel pattern repeats). Continue as follows for 1 vertical repeat of M.1. Continue to crochet 2-3-3-4-4 rounds with tr – read crochet info – as follows:
1st round: Crochet 1 tr in each ch-loop with 1 ch between each tr =72-72-81-90-99 tr.
2nd round: Crochet 1 tr in each tr from previous row, but crochet 2 ch between each tr (instead of 1 ch) = Size S finish here before the last mussel pattern beg. = 72 tr
3rd round: Crochet 1 tr in each tr from previous row, but crochet 3 ch between each tr (instead of 2 ch) – Size M and L finish here before the last mussel pattern beg. = 71-81 tr.
4th round: Crochet 1 tr in each tr from previous row with 3 ch between each tr – Size XL and XXL finish here before the last mussel pattern beg. = 90-99 tr.
After last row of tr crochet chart M.1 again (from the start arrow in chart), but finish pattern after the 7th. row – Note: crochet 1st row of M.1 as follows for pattern to be divisible with number of sts: 3 ch (= 1 dc), 1 ch, *1 dc in the ch-loop, 1 ch, 1 dc in the next tr, 1 ch*, repeat from *-* until finish = 144-144-162-180-198 ch loops (i.e. 16-16-18-20-22 mussel patterns at the bottom of dress).

Crochet edge: Crochet an edge around the sleeves and around the neck using hook size 4.5 mm [US 7]with 1 thread of each quality as follows:
Crochet 1 sc in the first st, *3 ch, skip approx. 1 cm [3/8’’], 1 sc in the next st*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in the first sc at beg. of round.

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DROPS skirt crochet in a “mussel” pattern made with “Alpaca” and “Cotton Viscose”.

Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL
Materials:DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200-200 gr no 1101, white.
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
200-250-250-300-300 gr no 01, white.

DROPS crochet hook size 4.5 mm [US 7] or the size needed to obtain the correct crochet gauge.

Crochet gauge: 14 dc x 7 rows using hook size 4.5 mm [US 7] and 1 thread of each quality = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’]. 1 repeat of the mussel pattern measures approx. 11 cm [4 3/8’’] in the width.

Crochet info: Substitute the first dc on each row/round with 3 ch and substitute the first tr on each row/round with 4 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in the 3rd/4th ch from previous round.

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagrams are seen from the RS. US English Translations for the wording in the diagrams are given at the bottom of this pattern, and they are given in the vertical order in which they appear in the diagram.

Measurement tip 1: Because of the weight of the yarn, all measurements should be made whilst the garment is hanging, otherwise it will be to long when it is worn.
Measurement tip 2: The garment is very elastic. The measurement diagram therefore gives the measures of both the garment and the corresponding body measures. See ** on the measurement diagram.

The skirt is crochet from the top and down.

Skirt: Crochet 133-144-154-176-192 ch on with 1 thread of each quality using hook size 4.5 mm [US 7]. Form a ring by crochet 1 sl st in in first ch.
Work next round like this: 3 ch (= 1 dc), * skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of 3 following ch *, repeat *-*. (Size S ends with 1 dc in last ch and Size L ends with dc in the 2 last ch) = 100-108-116-132-144 dc. Read Crochet info above. Place a marker at beg of round and another marker after 50-54-58-66-72 dc (= markers placed at sides of skirt). Measure work from here.
Continue as for crochet dress – from Hip part to Mussel pattern - start to crochet ann 2nd round. When the skirt is finished crochet one round sc in ch-round at beg of work.

Band: Crochet with hook 4.5 mm [US 7] with 1 thread of each quality, ch approx 1 – 1½ meter. Pull chain band up and down I 1st round on skirt. Make a tuft each side of band: cut a total of 28 threads (14 threads of each quality) approx 20 cm [8”] each. Fold threads double. Fasten end of band around the fold on tuft and wind one of the threads around upper part of tuft to hold tuft together. Fasten thread.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 ch
= 1 sc
= 1 dc
= 1 picot (=3 ch, 1 sc in the first of the 3 ch)
= 7th row
= this round is explained in the pattern, beg. at the start-arrow.
= correspond to Burst measures, see measurement tip 2
= correspond to Hip measures, see measurement tip 2


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 99-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (35)

Andrea 10.05.2016 - 17:07:

Welches Garn empfehlen Sie mir? Ich möchte gerne nur mit einem Faden häkeln. Ich arbeite sehr fest und muss die Nadel immer eine halbe Nummer stärker wählen.

DROPS Design 11.05.2016 kl. 17:31:

Liebe Andrea, Sie können ein Garn der Garngruppe C aussuchen. Die Nadel müssen Sie so anpassen, bis die Maschenprobe stimmt.

David 02.07.2015 - 16:06:

Pouvez me dire si au 3e rang du point éventail on doiit faire des mailles en l'ai pour rejoindre les mailles serrées ou une bride merci

DROPS Design 03.07.2015 kl. 09:25:

Bonjour Mme David, on termine chaque tour par 1 mc dans la 1ère/la 3ème ml du début du tour, et on remplace la 1ère B par 3 ml au début du tour. Au 3ème tour de M.1, crochetez 1 ml puis 1 ms dans la 1ère ml du rang 2. Bon crochet!

Barre 11.03.2015 - 16:43:

J'abandonne la réalisation de la robe en 30 ans de crochet je n'ai jamais rencontré des explications aussi mauvaises

DROPS Design 11.03.2015 kl. 17:35:

Bonjour Madame Barre, rappelez-vous que pour toute aide ou assistance à la réalisation d'un modèle, vous pouvez contacter votre magasin DROPS ou vous adresser au forum DROPS pour y poser vos questions et recevoir une aide plus détaillée.

Wilma Van Dijken 11.03.2015 - 09:39:

Ik haak het jurkje in M. Dan zou ik volgens jullie 13 losse bij de rechterschouder van het voorpand moeten haken en dat is inc de 3 keerlossen. Er moet af en toe 1 over geslagen worden. En je moet eindigen met 11 stokjes. Maar, als je de 13 begin lossen doet, 3 eraf is al 10 en dan nog 2 x 1 stk overslaan, dan kom je maar op 8 stk als de toer af is en niet de 11 die het moeten zijn.

DROPS Design 03.06.2015 kl. 14:45:

Hoi Wilma. Je hebt gelijk. Het is een vertaalfoutje in het patroon. Je moet de rechterschouder ook beginnen met 16-16-18-19-19. Ik zal het snel aanpassen. En excuses voor de lange wachttijd.

Barre 03.03.2015 - 16:04:

Pouvez vous m'expliquer les mailles en l'air pour le dos je ne comprend pas pourquoi il y a plusieurs mailles en l'air que j'arrête et que je reprend

DROPS Design 04.03.2015 kl. 08:51:

Bonjour Mme Barre, on crochète d'abord chaque épaule séparément, puis on monte 22-28 ml pour l'encolure entre les épaules. À 10-14 cm (cf taille), on augmente de chaque côté en crochetant 1-4 ml (en plus des 3 ml pour tourner) à la fin des 2 rangs suivants (de chaque côté) et on crochète au rang suivant 1B dans chacune de ces ml supplémentaires. On coupe le fil puis on crochète 1-4 ml, on crochète les m du dos et on termine par 1-4 ml, au rang suivant, on crochète de nouveau 1 B dans chacune de ces ml supplémentaires. Bon crochet!

Barre 27.02.2015 - 12:11:

Je ne comprend pas très bien l'explication pour le dos de la robe car les augmentation ne sont pas très claires avec mes remerciements

DROPS Design 27.02.2015 kl. 13:47:

Bonjour Mme Barre, pour les augmentations du dos, pour les emmanchures, montez le nbe de ml indiqué à la fin du rang, puis au début du rang suivant, crochetez 3 ml pour tourner (= 1ère B) et 1 B dans la/les ml crochetées pour les augmentations. Bon crochet!

Jeanette Alferink 25.02.2015 - 09:50:

Hallo, Ik ben bezig met deze mooie jurk, maar op de golfpatroon staat dat je 3 rijen dubbelstokjes moet haken, maar ik kan het op de telpatroon niet terugvinden. Groetjes, Jeanette

DROPS Design 25.02.2015 kl. 12:34:

Hoi Jeanette. Na het haken van M.1 één keer in de hoogte haak je de 3 tr dstk zoals beschreven. Het stond inderdaad een beetje krom in het patroon, dus ik heb dat aangepast.

Hluchaniuc Ileana 30.05.2014 - 19:50:

Magnifique modèle ! je n'arrive pas à telecharger les explications depuis mon ordinateur (Mac) ;je peux imprimer avec l'entete en plus petit,donc je ne vois pas tres bien,mais je n'arrive pas le faire à l'endroit préconisé . merci de votre aide

DROPS Design 03.06.2014 kl. 10:09:

Bonjour Mme Hluchaniuc, nous avons réussi les tests d'impression sur Mac, en cliquant sur "Imprimer:explications", une nouvelle fenêtre va s'ouvrir - vérifier que votre navigateur autorise les pop'up puis dans la nouvelle fenêtre, cliquez sur "Imprimer les explications". Bon crochet!

Ashten 21.03.2013 - 02:54:

To clarify the previous question; when the pattern says to increase by 2 ch, which will give 2 dc, do I only chain one and have just a ch3 and a dc? Otherwise, if I increase by 2 ch then I am actually adding on 3 more dc. This is where my stitch numbers are higher than the pattern accounts for. Which is correct?

DROPS Design 25.03.2013 kl. 10:39:

Dear Ashten, when it says (back piece) to inc crocheting 2 ch 1 time it means to inc 2 dc for next row, ie : (size XL) you end row with 2 ch for inc + 3 ch to turn with = you'll get 2 more sts on this side. Repeat same inc a the end of the row to have 2 more sts each side. Happy crocheting!

Ashten 19.03.2013 - 16:47:

I watched the video tip for increasing with chains at end of row. However, when I increase stitches on the top part, my ending dc count is a few higher than the pattern says. Does the pattern account for the ch-3 at beginning of row during increases?

DROPS Design 20.03.2013 kl. 09:02:

Dear Mrs Ashten, the ch-3 at the beg of row replaces 1st dc and count as a stitch. Happy crocheting!

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