DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Artemis

DROPS dress or skirt crochet in a “mussel” pattern made with “Alpaca” and “Cotton Viscose”. Sizes S - XXL

DROPS 99-5
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL
Materials: Drops Alpaca from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 g colour no. 1101, white
and use: Drops Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
350-400-400-450-500 g colour no. 01, white

DROPS crochet hook size 4.5 mm or the size needed to obtain the correct crochet tension.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

Crochet tension: 14 tr x 7 rows using hook size 4.5 mm and 1 thread of each quality = 10 x 10 cm. 1 repeat of the mussel pattern measures approx. 11 cm in the width.

Crochet info: Substitute the first tr on each row/round with 3 ch and substitute the first dtr on each row/round with 4 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in the 3rd/4th ch from previous round.

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagrams are seen from the RS.

Decreasing tips:
Crochet 2 st tog. to 1 st. Crochet 1 tr but wait with the last pull through (=2 sts on hook), then crochet the next tr but for the last pull through pull through all sts on hook – now 1 tr has been dec.

Measurement tips 1: Because of the weight of the yarn, all measurements should be made whilst the garment is hanging, otherwise it will be to long when it is worn.

Measurement tips 2: The garment is very elastic. The measurement diagram therefore gives the measures of both the garment and the corresponding body measures. The body measures are marked with * and ** on the measurement diagram.

The dress is crochet from the top and down. Beg. to crochet the front and back piece for the top part, then put the 2 pieces tog. and crochet the bottom part round beg. at the side.

Back piece:
- Crochet the right shoulder as follows:
Crochet loosely 16-16-18-19-19 ch (incl. of 3 ch to turn with) with 1 thread of each quality using hook size 4.5 mm. Crochet the next row as follows: 1 tr in the 4th ch, *skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the following 3 ch*, repeat from *-* until 4-4-2-3-3 ch remains, skip 1 ch and crochet 1 tr in each of remaining 3-3-1-2-2 ch = 11-11-12-13-13 tr. Continue with 1 tr in each tr until the work measures 6 cm – read crochet info. On the next row inc 1 tr as follows: crochet 2 tr in the last tr towards the neck. Turn and crochet back = 12-12-13-14-14 tr. Put work aside.
- Crochet left shoulder as follows: Crochet as right shoulder but reverse.
- Back piece: Start to crochet at the side on the right shoulder, crochet 1 tr in each tr. Then crochet 22-24-26-26-28 ch. Then continue to crochet 1 tr in each tr from the neck towards the side of the left shoulder. Turn and crochet back over all tr/ch = 46-48-52-54-56 tr on row. Continue with 1 tr in each tr until the work measures 10-11-12-13-14 cm. Now inc. for the arm holes as follows: Crochet ch’s at the end of each row: 1-1-1-2-3 ch 1 time and 1-1-2-2-3 ch 1 times(on the next row crochet tr in the new ch) = 50-52-58-62-68 tr. Crochet 1 row with tr. Cut the thread. Crochet 1-2-3-4-4 ch before continuing with tr over the back piece and finish the row at the other side with 1-2-3-4-4 ch = 52-56-64-70-76 tr. Crochet 1 row with tr in each tr/ch. The work now measures approx. 17-18-19-10-21 cm. Cut the thread and put the work aside.

Front piece:
- Crochet the right shoulder as follows:
Crochet loosely 16-16-18-19-19 ch (incl. 3 ch to turn with) using hook size 4.5 mm and 1 thread of each quality. On the next row crochet as follows: 1 tr in the 4th ch, *skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch*, repeat from *-* until 4-4-2-3-3 ch remains, skip 1 ch and crochet 1 tr in each of remaining 3-3-1-2-2 ch = 11-11-12-13-13 tr. Continue with 1 tr in each tr until the piece measures 6 cm – read crochet info. On the next row inc. towards the neck as follows: crochet 2 tr in 1 tr towards the neck - on each row a total of 7-8-9-9-10 times. At the same time when the piece measures 10-11-12-13-14 cm inc. for arm holes towards the side on every other row as follows: Crochet ch’s at the end of each other row: 1-1-1-2-3 ch 1 time, 1-1-2-2-3 ch 1 time and 1-2-3-4-4 ch 1 time. When all inc. are completed there are 21-23-27-30-33 tr in total on row. The work measures 16-17-18-19-20 cm. Cut the thread and put work aside.
- Crochet the left shoulder as follows:
Crochet as right shoulder but reverse. When all inc. are completed (= 21-23-27-30-33 tr) crochet 1 row from the armhole towards the neck, at the end of row crochet 10 ch.
- Front piece: Continue to crochet over the right front (from neck towards the armhole) = 52-56-64-70-76 tr/ch in total on row. Insert a marker(= underneath the sleeve), and measure the work from here onwards.

Top part: Now the front part is put tog. Crochet around from here onwards . Crochet over the back piece (from right front arm hole towards the left front armhole) = 104-112-128-140-152 tr in total on round.
Continue to crochet around until the piece measures 8-9-10-11-12 cm from the marker. On the next round dec. 10 tr evenly distributed – read decreasing tips = 94-102-118-130-142 tr. Continue round with 1 tr in each tr until the work measures 11-12-13-14-15 cm from marker. On the next round dec. 6-6-14-10-10 tr evenly distributed = 88-96-104-120-132 tr. Continue to crochet until the piece measures14-15-16-17-18 cm from the marker – read measurement tips 1.

Net-pattern: Insert 2 new markers in the work, 1 at the beg. of round and 1 after 44-48-52-60-66 tr. Now the upper top part is finish and continue to crochet over the lower top part in net-pattern as follows:
1st round: 3 ch (= 1tr) *1 ch, skip over 1 tr, 1 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch and a sl st in the 3rd ch from beg. of round.
2nd round: 3 ch (= 1 tr) *1 ch, 1 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch and a sl st in the 3rd ch from beg. of round.
3rd round: 4 ch (= 1 dtr), *1 ch, 1 dtr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish with a ch and a sl st in the 4th ch from beg. of round.
4th round: 4 ch (= 1 dtr), 1 ch, 1 dtr in the next dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr in the same dtr, *1 ch, 1 dtr in the next dtr* , repeat from *-* until the marker at the side. Now crochet 1 ch, 1 dtr in the next dtr, 1 ch 1 dtr in the same dtr . Then continue from *-* before finishing with 1 ch and a sl st in the 4th ch from beg. of round. (there are now inc. 2 ch-loops).
Crochet the 3rd and the 4th round 2 more times and then the 3rd round 2 times and the 2nd round 2 times = 50-54-58-66-72 ch-loops. The piece measures approx. 36-37-38-39-40 cm from the marking thread underneath the arm. Insert 2 new marking threads, 1 at the beg. of round and 1 after 25-27-29-33-36 ch-loops (= mid sides). Continue to measures from here onwards.

Hip part: On the next row crochet as follows:
1st round: 3 ch (= 1 tr), *1 tr in the ch loop, 1 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish with a tr in the ch-loop and a sl st in the 3rd ch from beg. of round = 100-108-116-132-144 tr.
2nd round: 3 ch (= 1tr) continue to crochet 1 tr in each tr, but crochet 2 tr in 1 tr before and after the marker. ( inc of 4 tr). Finish with a sl st in the 3rd ch from beg. of round.
3rd round: 3 ch (=1 tr), now crochet 1 tr in each tr. Finish with a sl st in the 3rd ch at beg. of round. Now crochet 2nd and 3rd round 3 times = 116-124-132-148-160 tr in total on round. Continue with 1 tr in each tr until the piece measures 17-18-19-20-21 cm from the marker- read measurement tips 1. On the next round inc. 28-20-30-32-38 tr evenly distributed = 144-144-162-180-198 tr in total on round.
Mussel pattern: Crochet M.1 (beg. from the Start arrow in diagram) as going along on round (= 8-8-9-10-11 mussel pattern repeats). Continue as follows for 1 vertical repeat of M.1. Continue to crochet 2-3-3-4-4 rounds with dtr – read crochet info – as follows:
1st round: Crochet 1 dtr in each ch-loop with 1 ch between each dtr =72-72-81-90-99 dtr.
2nd. round: Crochet 1 dtr in each dtr from previous row, but crochet 2 ch between each dtr (instead of 1 ch) = Size S finish here before the last mussel pattern beg. = 72 dtr
3rd. round: Crochet 1 dtr in each dtr from previous row, but crochet 3 ch between each dtr (instead of 2 ch) – Size M and L finish here before the last mussel pattern beg. = 72-81 dtr.
4th round: Crochet 1 dtr in each dtr from previous row with 3 ch between each dtr – Size XL and XXL finish here before the last mussel pattern beg. = 90-99 dtr.
After last row of dtr crochet M.1 again (from the start arrow in diagram), but finish pattern after the 7th. row – NB: crochet 1st row of M.1 as follows for pattern to be divisible with number of sts: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 ch, *1 tr in the ch-loop, 1 ch, 1 tr in the next dtr, 1 ch*, repeat from *-* until finish = 144-144-162-180-198 ch loops (i.e. 16-16-18-20-22 mussel patterns at the bottom of dress).

Crochet edge: Crochet an edge around the sleeves and around the neck using hook size 4.5 mm with 1 thread of each quality as follows:
Crochet 1 dc in the first st, *3 ch, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 dc in the next st*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in the first dc at beg. of round.

___________________________________________________________________
DROPS skirt crochet in a “mussel” pattern made with “Alpaca” and “Cotton Viscose”.

Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL
Materials:DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200-200 gr no 1101, white.
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
200-250-250-300-300 gr no 01, white.

DROPS crochet hook size 4.5 mm or the size needed to obtain the correct crochet tension.

Crochet tension: 14 tr x 7 rows using hook size 4.5 mm and 1 thread of each quality = 10 x 10 cm. 1 repeat of the mussel pattern measures approx. 11 cm in the width.

Crochet info: Substitute the first tr on each row/round with 3 ch and substitute the first dtr on each row/round with 4 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in the 3rd/4th ch from previous round.

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagrams are seen from the RS. English Translations for the wording in the diagrams are given at the bottom of this pattern, and they are given in the vertical order in which they appear in the diagram.

Measurement tip 1: Because of the weight of the yarn, all measurements should be made whilst the garment is hanging, otherwise it will be to long when it is worn.
Measurement tip 2: The garment is very elastic. The measurement diagram therefore gives the measures of both the garment and the corresponding body measures. See ** on the measurement diagram.

The skirt is crochet from the top and down.

Skirt: Crochet 133-144-154-176-192 ch on with 1 thread of each quality using hook size 4.5 mm. Form a ring by crochet 1 sl st in in first ch.
Work next round like this: 3 ch (= 1 tr), * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 3 following ch *, repeat *-*. (Size S ends with 1 tr in last ch and Size L ends with tr in the 2 last ch) = 100-108-116-132-144 tr. Read Crochet info above. Place a marker at beg of round and another marker after 50-54-58-66-72 tr (= markers placed at sides of skirt). Measure work from here.
Continue as for crochet dress – from Hip part to Mussel pattern - start to crochet ann 2nd round. When the skirt is finished crochet one round dc in ch-round at beg of work.

Band: Crochet with hook 4.5 mm with 1 thread of each quality, ch approx 1 – 1½ meter. Pull chain band up and down 1st round on skirt. Make a tuft each side of band: cut a total of 28 threads (14 threads of each quality) approx 20 cm each. Fold threads double. Fasten end of band around the fold on tuft and wind one of the threads around upper part of tuft to hold tuft together. Fasten thread.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 09.03.2015
under Net-pattern (finish with a ch...):
….3rd round: 4 ch (= 1 dtr), *1 ch, 1 dtr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish with a ch and ....

Hip part(each dtr AND = 72-81 dtr.):...
Mussel pattern: ....
1st round: Crochet 1 dtr in each ch-loop with 1 ch between each dtr =72-72-81-90-99 dtr.

2nd. round:
..... Size M and L finish here before the last mussel pattern beg. = 72-81 dtr.

Diagram

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 tr
symbols = 1 picot (=3 ch, 1 dc in the first of the 3 ch)
symbols = 7th row
symbols = this round is explained in the pattern, beg. at the start-arrow.
symbols = correspond to Burst measures, see measurement tips 2
symbols = correspond to Hip measures, see measurement tips 2
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (37)

country flag Annamarisa wrote:

Vorrei sostituire i filati di questo modello con un filato di cotone. Quale posso usare?

19.07.2021 - 15:26

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Annamarisa, può sostituire Alpaca e Cotton Viscose con Safran o DROPS Loves you 9. Buon lavoro!

20.07.2021 - 17:24

country flag Annamarisa wrote:

Vorrei sostituire i filati di questo modello con un filato di cotone. Quale posso usare?

19.07.2021 - 15:24

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Annamarisa, può sostituire Alpaca e Cotton Viscose con Safran o DROPS Loves you 9. Buon lavoro!

20.07.2021 - 17:24

country flag Andrea wrote:

Welches Garn empfehlen Sie mir? Ich möchte gerne nur mit einem Faden häkeln. Ich arbeite sehr fest und muss die Nadel immer eine halbe Nummer stärker wählen.

10.05.2016 - 17:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, Sie können ein Garn der Garngruppe C aussuchen. Die Nadel müssen Sie so anpassen, bis die Maschenprobe stimmt.

11.05.2016 - 17:31

country flag David wrote:

Pouvez me dire si au 3e rang du point éventail on doiit faire des mailles en l'ai pour rejoindre les mailles serrées ou une bride merci

02.07.2015 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme David, on termine chaque tour par 1 mc dans la 1ère/la 3ème ml du début du tour, et on remplace la 1ère B par 3 ml au début du tour. Au 3ème tour de M.1, crochetez 1 ml puis 1 ms dans la 1ère ml du rang 2. Bon crochet!

03.07.2015 - 09:25

country flag Barre wrote:

J'abandonne la réalisation de la robe en 30 ans de crochet je n'ai jamais rencontré des explications aussi mauvaises

11.03.2015 - 16:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Madame Barre, rappelez-vous que pour toute aide ou assistance à la réalisation d'un modèle, vous pouvez contacter votre magasin DROPS ou vous adresser au forum DROPS pour y poser vos questions et recevoir une aide plus détaillée.

11.03.2015 - 17:35

country flag Wilma Van Dijken wrote:

Ik haak het jurkje in M. Dan zou ik volgens jullie 13 losse bij de rechterschouder van het voorpand moeten haken en dat is inc de 3 keerlossen. Er moet af en toe 1 over geslagen worden. En je moet eindigen met 11 stokjes. Maar, als je de 13 begin lossen doet, 3 eraf is al 10 en dan nog 2 x 1 stk overslaan, dan kom je maar op 8 stk als de toer af is en niet de 11 die het moeten zijn.

11.03.2015 - 09:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Wilma. Je hebt gelijk. Het is een vertaalfoutje in het patroon. Je moet de rechterschouder ook beginnen met 16-16-18-19-19. Ik zal het snel aanpassen. En excuses voor de lange wachttijd.

03.06.2015 - 14:45

country flag Barre wrote:

Pouvez vous m'expliquer les mailles en l'air pour le dos je ne comprend pas pourquoi il y a plusieurs mailles en l'air que j'arrête et que je reprend

03.03.2015 - 16:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Barre, on crochète d'abord chaque épaule séparément, puis on monte 22-28 ml pour l'encolure entre les épaules. À 10-14 cm (cf taille), on augmente de chaque côté en crochetant 1-4 ml (en plus des 3 ml pour tourner) à la fin des 2 rangs suivants (de chaque côté) et on crochète au rang suivant 1B dans chacune de ces ml supplémentaires. On coupe le fil puis on crochète 1-4 ml, on crochète les m du dos et on termine par 1-4 ml, au rang suivant, on crochète de nouveau 1 B dans chacune de ces ml supplémentaires. Bon crochet!

04.03.2015 - 08:51

country flag Barre wrote:

Je ne comprend pas très bien l'explication pour le dos de la robe car les augmentation ne sont pas très claires avec mes remerciements

27.02.2015 - 12:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Barre, pour les augmentations du dos, pour les emmanchures, montez le nbe de ml indiqué à la fin du rang, puis au début du rang suivant, crochetez 3 ml pour tourner (= 1ère B) et 1 B dans la/les ml crochetées pour les augmentations. Bon crochet!

27.02.2015 - 13:47

country flag Jeanette Alferink wrote:

Hallo, Ik ben bezig met deze mooie jurk, maar op de golfpatroon staat dat je 3 rijen dubbelstokjes moet haken, maar ik kan het op de telpatroon niet terugvinden. Groetjes, Jeanette

25.02.2015 - 09:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Jeanette. Na het haken van M.1 één keer in de hoogte haak je de 3 tr dstk zoals beschreven. Het stond inderdaad een beetje krom in het patroon, dus ik heb dat aangepast.

25.02.2015 - 12:34

country flag Hluchaniuc Ileana wrote:

Magnifique modèle ! je n'arrive pas à telecharger les explications depuis mon ordinateur (Mac) ;je peux imprimer avec l'entete en plus petit,donc je ne vois pas tres bien,mais je n'arrive pas le faire à l'endroit préconisé . merci de votre aide

30.05.2014 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Hluchaniuc, nous avons réussi les tests d'impression sur Mac, en cliquant sur "Imprimer:explications", une nouvelle fenêtre va s'ouvrir - vérifier que votre navigateur autorise les pop'up puis dans la nouvelle fenêtre, cliquez sur "Imprimer les explications". Bon crochet!

03.06.2014 - 10:09