Zabrina by DROPS Design

DROPS Top in Muskat and Shawl in Vivaldi

DROPS 81-27

Sizes: XS - S - M - L - XL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-90-98-108-116 cm [31.5" - 35 3/8" - 38 5/8" - 42.5" - 45 5/8"]
Due to the pattern, the top looks small when knit, but will be stretchy, so make a size smaller than usual.

100% mercerized Egyptian cotton, 50 g./100 m./109 yards
250-250-300-350-350 gr nr 19, light grey.

DROPS 3.5 mm [US 4] straight and short circular needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 2.20 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

Gauge: 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm

Row 1 (right side): * P 3, K 2 *, repeat from * - *.
Row 2 (wrong side): * K 3, P 2 *, repeat from * - *.

Decreasing tips: All decs are made on right side rows.
Dec by P 2 tog each side of the center 6 sts.

Increasing tips: So that the number of sts remains constant, you must inc 1 st at each side for every dec at center. Inc on right side rows by K 2 sts in 1 st. Make incs inside 1 edge st to keep the edge smooth. Knit the increased sts in the rib pattern.

Front: Cast on 90-100-110-120-130 sts and knit rib, keeping 1 edge st in garter st at each side – begin and end rib with P 3 at each side. Put a marker at center front, between 2 K sts.
After 1 cm start dec at the center front and inc at sides – see Decreasing tips and Increasing tips above – dec and inc every other row.
When the piece measures approx. 32-33-34-35-36 cm – Sizes XS, S and M shall have K 1 (edge st) and K 2 at each side, and Sizes L and XL shall have K 1 (edge st) and P 3 at each side – bind off 3-3-3-6-6 sts at each side for armhole = 84-94-104-108-118 sts. Continue to dec at center front but do not inc at sides, so that the armhole will be automatically formed. Knit the 3 outermost sts at each side in garter st.
When there are 58-58-68-68-78 sts on needles (the piece measures approx. 41-45-46-48-49 cm) put the center 22-22-22-22-26 sts on a st holder for the neck. Then continue rib as before, and bind off for the neck every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1-1-2 times and 1 st 2-2-2-2-3 times = 11-11-16-16-16 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm.

Back: Cast on and knit the same as the front. When there are 58-58-68-68-78 sts on needles end dec at center back and knit rib with 3 sts in garter st at each side until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55 cm. Bind off the center 28-28-28-28-38 sts for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 11-11-16-16-16 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder- and side seams using edge sts as seam allowance.
Neckband: Pick up approx. 90-110 sts (incl. sts on st holder) around the neck on short circular needles; join and knit 5 rows stockinette st for rolled edge and then bind off. So the at the edge will roll nicely, K 2 sts in approx. every 10th st at the same time as binding off.


Width at top: approx. 150 cm [59"]
Length at center back: approx. 70 cm [27 5/8"]

Materials: Garnstudio VIVALDI
43% mohair, 27% acrylic, 30% polyester, 50 g./280 m./305 yards
50 gr nr 08, dusty pink

DROPS 15 mm [US 19] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 5 sts x 10 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

Increasing tips: Inc 1 st inside of 2 sts at each side by making a yo.

Shawl: Loosely cast on 5 sts and knit garter st over all sts, increasing every other row - see Increasing tips. Inc until you have 75 sts, then knit 1 row increasing 1 st in every other st (= 112 sts), then bind off with double strands of yarn.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 81-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Fay wrote:

Dear Drops Design Thank you! Your instructions are very helpful! Congratulations about your immediate response. That's one of the many reasons that's makes you differentiate from other web sites. Have a good night!

01.03.2022 - 17:43

country flag Fay wrote:

Hallo Garn Studio! I have 100 sts on my straight needles and I'm starting the shifted rib.To the right of my work there are: K1, (P3 K2) for 9 times so 5×9=45+1=46.In the middle I leave 6 sts and to the left I have also 46 sts. Therefore 46 +6+46=98. There are 2 sts left what to do with them?

01.03.2022 - 08:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Fay, you should have: K1 (edge st), (P3,K2)x9, P3, K2, P3, (K2,P3)x9, 1 edge st = 100 sts. Then you will increase inside the ege sts on each side and decrease on each side of the middle 6 sts = P2, K2, P2 with P2 tog, so that you will have on the first row: K1, Inc, rib, P2 tog, P2,K2,P2 tog, rib, inc, K1. Happy knitting!

01.03.2022 kl. 10:18

country flag Fey wrote:

Hallo Drops Design! Warm request if you can make one of your great videos for this pattern. It would be very helpful for those of us who do not have access to a store with your products, to explain to us the pattern. Thank you!

28.02.2022 - 11:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Fey, we are doing our best to make videos for many patterns, when many have problems understanding. We have many videos to show almost all the pattern, but we wouldn't be able to make an entire video to show a jacket for woman that would take hours and wouldn't be that relevant. You will find lessons and videos related to each pattern that can help you. You can also use the "Question" section to ask any question about the pattern, so that one of our experts can help you. And contact your DROPS store in Greece here. Happy knitting!

28.02.2022 kl. 13:45

country flag Fay wrote:

Hallo Garn studio! Can you explain this pattern sts by sts please?

26.02.2022 - 10:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Fay, this pattern is only available in written format, as published. If you have any problem working the top, you may check the videos and lessons below the pattern instructions. Happy knitting!

27.02.2022 kl. 17:01

country flag Katri wrote:

Kas vardasoovitus sellele mustrile on õige: DROPSi pikad vardad: 15 mm – või sellised, millega saavutad kudumistiheduse 5 silmust x 10 rida ripskoes = 10 x 10 cm

13.05.2020 - 13:40

DROPS Design answered:

Tere Katri! Suured vardad on õlasalli tegemiseks, mis on väga hõreda koega. Topi tegemiseks on vaja 3,5 mm vardaid. Head kudumist!

29.05.2020 kl. 15:57

country flag Karine wrote:

Merci beaucoup grâce a votre explication j'ai compris mon erreur Bonne journée

11.02.2020 - 09:23

country flag Karine wrote:

Re bonjour regardé la vidéo mais je ne comprends toujours pas ,le souci c'est que la personne tricote a la Continental donc pas clair pour les personnes comme moi qui tricotent avec le fil a droite

10.02.2020 - 18:37

country flag Karine wrote:

Bonjour Je suis entrain de réaliser ce modèle mais les côtes ne sont pas dans le même sens , sur le modèle elles vont vers l'intérieur alors que moi elles vont vers l'extérieur. Où est le problème ? Merci

10.02.2020 - 15:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Karine, le top se tricote de bas en haut. On doit diminuer au milieu (1 m avant les 6 m centrales + 1 m après les 6 mailles centrales) et on doit augmenter 1 maille de chaque côté à 1 m des bords = ainsi, on diminue 2 m et on augmente 2 m et le nombre de mailles reste constant. les côtes vont partir en diagonale comme sur la photo, elles vont être "mangées" au milieu, et on doit tricoter les nouvelles mailles de chaque côté en côtes. Vous pouvez également montrer votre ouvrage à votre magasin (même en photo par mail), ce sera probablement plus simple pour lui de pouvoir vous aider. Bon tricot!

10.02.2020 kl. 15:50

country flag Inger Olsen wrote:

Skal det ikke økes på sidene, men kun felles på midten på bakstykket? Jeg skjønner ikke helt det står at man skal strikke som på forstykket, men at man når det er 58-58-68-68-78 stopper med fellingen.

24.05.2019 - 08:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Inger. Jo, bakstykkt strikkes på samme måte som forstykket (altså du øker i hver side, og feller på midten) til du har igjen 58-58-68-68-78 masker på pinnen - altså når du har sluttet med økingene i hver side for å lage ermhull. Herfra strikkes bakstykket annerledes enn forstykket, så følg anvisningene videre. Altså, når du ville satt masker på en tråd til hals på forstykket, skal du isteden slutte å felle, og strikke vrangbord. God fornøyelse

24.05.2019 kl. 13:07

country flag Marilo wrote:

Que significa 2 pjr

04.02.2019 - 18:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Marilo. 2 pjr = trabajar 2 puntos juntos de revés.

06.02.2019 kl. 20:30

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