DROPS / 94 / 24

Lovely in Lace by DROPS Design

DROPS Long top with lace pattern knitted in Safran.

Size: S – M – L – XL -XXL
Materials: Safran
250-300-300-350-400 g colour no.17, White.

Drops circular needle size 3.5 mm or the size needed to obtain the correct gauge.
Drops small circular needle size 3.5 mm for neck.
Accessories: Silk ribbon 150 – 200 cm white, approx 6 mm wide

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting Gauge: 21 sts x 30 rows on needles size 3.5 mm in lace pattern with Safran = 10 x 10 cm, and 25 sts x 30 rows of rib-2 = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib-1: *K2, P4*, repeat from *-*
Rib-2: *K2, P3*, repeat from *-*

Lace pattern: See diagrams M.1 to M.5. The diagrams are seen from the right side.

Decreasing tips (for raglan): Bind off as follows at every transition between the sleeve and the front and back piece (begin 3 sts before the marking thread): K2 tog, K2 (marking thread is now in between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.

Front piece: Please read the entire pattern before starting – Work forward and backward on circular needle.
Cast on 146-158-170-182-206 sts (inclusive of 1 seam st each side) on needles size 3.5 mm in Safran. P 1st row from the wrong side, and continue in Rib-1 and a seam st each side. After 2 rows dec. all P4’s to P3 = 122-132-142-152-172 sts, and continue the rib K2/P3 (seen from the right side). When the piece measures 10 cm K1 row from the right side, at the same time adjusting number of sts evenly on row to 102-110-120-130-142. Knit the next row from the wrong side as follows: 1 seam st, 2-2-3-0-2 stocking sts, M.1 over the next 96-104-112-128-136 sts, 2-2-3-0-2 sts of stocking sts and 1 seam st. Knit 1 repeat – NB: On the rows where the pattern says P from the right side, P over all sts including the 2-2-3-0-2 stocking sts at each side of M.1. At the same time, on the second but last row in M.1 adjust the number of sts to 99-107-123-131-139. Continue the next row from the right side as follows: 1 seam st, M.2A over the next 88-96-112-120-128 sts, M.2B (= 9 sts) and 1 seam st. Knit 1 repeat – at the same time on the last row in M.2 adjust the number of sts to 98-104-116-128-140. Continue in M.3 with a seam st at each side. At the same time when the piece measures 26 and 38 cm dec 1 st each side = 94-100-112-124-136 sts – knit the sts not fitting into pattern in stocking sts. When the piece measures approx. 46-47-48-49-50 cm – adjust M.3 so that you have knitted 2 rows of stocking sts after a row of lace holes and the next row is from the wrong side – continue as follows: 1 seam st, 2-1-3-1-3 sts of stocking sts, M.1 over the next 88-96-104-120-128 sts, 2-1-3-1-3 sts of stocking sts and 1 seam st. Knit 1 repeat (remember to P from the right side over all sts) – at the same time on the last row of M.1 adjust the number of sts to 95-101-111-123-137.

After M.1 knit the next row as follows from the right side:
1 seam st, 2-1-2-0-3 sts of stocking sts, M.4A over the next 80-88-96-112-120 sts, M.4B (= 9 sts), 2-1-2-0-3 sts of stocking sts and 1 seam st. Knit 1 repeat of M.4 and continue in M.5 the same way until finished measurements. At the same time when the piece measures 55-56-57-58-59 cm bind off 7-7-7-9-9 sts each side = 81-87-97-105-119 sts left. Put the sts on a thread and knit the back piece.

Back piece: Cast on and knit as front piece.

Sleeve: Knit the sleeve forward and backward on circular needle. Cast on 72-77-82-87-92 sts (inclusive of a seam st each side) on circular needle size 3.5 mm in Safran. P 1st row from the wrong side, and continue in Rib-2 and a seam st each side. When the piece measures 2 cm – make sure the next row is from the right side – knit 4 rows of garter sts – at the same time dec 1-2-3-2-1 sts evenly distributed on on 1st row = 71-75-79-85-91 sts. Now bind off 7-7-7-9-9 sts each side and put the remaining sts on a thread. Knit 1 more sleeve.

Assembly: Sew the front and back pieces tog inside the seam sts. Sew the sleeves tog inside the seam sts.

Yoke: Insert the sleeves on the same circular needle as the front and back where you bound off for the armholes = 276-296-324-344-384 sts. Insert a marking thread at all transitions between front and back and sleeves = 4 marking threads.

Knit 1-2-1-2-1 rounds before decreasing – NB: continue the pattern (M.5) on the front and back pieces as well as the sleeves (make sure to begin the pattern on the sleeves on the same pattern row as front and back pieces and knit 0-2-0-1-0 sts of stocking sts each side (M.5A are knitted over the first 48-48-56-56-64 sts and M.5B over the last 9 sts). Knit sts not fitting into pattern in stocking sts, and make sure to dec. as many sts as you make yo’s so that the number of sts outside the raglan decreases is constant.

Raglan decreases: Dec 1 st each side of the marking threads (= 8 decreases per round) – see Decreasing tips above: Dec on every other row 15-16-18-19-21 times – NB: Knit sts not fitting into pattern in stocking sts.

Neck: At the same time when the piece measures 63-65-67-68-70 cm put the centre front 39-43-47-51-57 sts on a thread for neck. Bind off on each neckline on every other row as follows: 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 st 2 times. After all dec for raglan and neck there are 109-117-125-129-147 sts left on row. Cast off.

Neck edge: Pick up approx. 156-212 sts around the neck (including the sts from the thread at the centre front) on a small circular needle size 3.5 mm with Safran. P 1 round, K 1 round at the same time dec evenly on round to 120-130-130-140-140 sts. Continue in Rib-2 until the neck edge measures 2.5 cm. Bind off loosely in rib. Insert the silk ribbon in the top row of M.3 and tie a knot/loop.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO
= Work 2 sts in this st (= K1, P1)
= K2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K2tog, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 94-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (53)

Griet De Reu 22.05.2018 - 10:24:

Ik snap het niet goed, M2 wordt dit van rechts naar links gelezen ? Als ik van links naar rechts A1 lees dan valt een stuk van het figuur uit mijn breiwerk. Of stel ik nu een heel domme vraag ?

DROPS Design 23.05.2018 kl. 11:13:

Hallo Griet, Je begint de telpatronen altijd rechts onder en dan lees je naar links. Misschien is het handig om deze insctructie even te lezen, daarin staat uitgelegd hoe je telpatronen leest.

Rebekah R 19.04.2018 - 14:16:

Thank you, that makes sense! Sorry was reading chart from incorrect side, your clarification really helped :)

Rebekah R 18.04.2018 - 15:31:

Im confuses about M.2B row 5 and the overlap with M.2A. How does the row start? Is this correct? Seam st, *Yo, K3, Yo, slip 1 (k, k1, psso), k1, k2tog* (repeat *-*) until last 9 then k2tog, Yo, K3, Yo, slip 1 (k, k1, psso), k2, seam st.

DROPS Design 18.04.2018 kl. 15:43:

Dear Rebekah, the last st in M.2A will be worked together with the first st in M.2B = the YO will now below to M.2A and the last st in M.2A will worked tog with the first st in M.2B. Same happens when repeating M.2B: the last st in M.2B will be worked together with the first st in next M.2B. Happy knitting!

Dorthe 10.12.2017 - 15:55:

Efter M.1 strikkes næste p således fra retsiden: 1 kantm, 2-1-2-0-3 m glatstrik, M.4A over de næste 80-88-96-112-120 m, M.4B (= 9 m), 2-1-2-0-3 m glatstrik og 1 kantm. Når M.4 er strikket 1 gang i højden strikkes M.5 på samme måde - M.5 gentags til færdig mål. Men hvad er færdigt mål??? Inden bærestykke?

DROPS Design 12.12.2017 kl. 11:50:

Hej Dorthe, Bærestykket starter når du har lukket af til ærmegab "Samtidig når arb måler 55-56-57-58-59 cm lukkes der 7-7-7-9-9 m af i hver side til ærmegab = 81-87-97-105-119 m på p." Se også målene på tunikaen nederst i måleskitsen. God fornøjelse!

Rebekah R. 21.05.2017 - 02:54:

Silly question...when starting front piece, instructions read cast on 158 (inclusive of seam stitch at each end), does that mean cast on 160 total or are the seam stitches included already in 158. Thanks!

DROPS Design 21.05.2017 kl. 09:53:

Hi Rebekah, It means as you first thought, that you cast on 158 stitches xx

Diane Peckham 21.04.2016 - 04:26:

I'm confused over how to read M2A and M2B because the knit two together occurs over M2A and M2B how can I knit two together follow the chart when one is from M2A and one is from M2B

DROPS Design 21.04.2016 kl. 09:31:

Dear Mrs Peckham, on row 5 and 15 K tog the last st in M.2A with the first st in next M.2A /M.2B - inserting a marker after each repeat can be a good idea to follow diagram. Happy knitting!

Iris 25.02.2016 - 05:08:

Kann dieses wunderschöne Longtop auch in Runden gestrickt werden?

DROPS Design 01.03.2016 kl. 14:29:

Liebe Iris, es spicht nichts dagegen, das Top in Runden zu stricken.

Nadine 19.11.2015 - 18:53:

Sorry die randmasche lasse ich ja weg, aber dennoch habe ich dann mehr als die 107 maschen

DROPS Design 24.11.2015 kl. 21:42:

Antwort siehe unten! :-)

Nadine 19.11.2015 - 18:52:

Bei dem Muster m 2 a verläuft die "grenze" in der 5. Reihe genau durch die 2 re zusammen gestrickte Maschen. Wie soll das gehen? Stricke ich dann nur 1 Masche, weil ich dann mit einer randmasche und 2 Maschen rechts wieder anfangen muss habe ich am ende mehr als 107 Maschen. Stricke ich dennoch 2 Maschen zusammen stimmt es vom Muster her nicht mehr

DROPS Design 24.11.2015 kl. 21:41:

Sie müssen an dieser Stelle das Muster als Ganzes betrachten, also einfach im angefangenen Rhythmus weiterstricken. M.2B zeigt, wie die R endet. Sie stricken also in der 5. R 2 M re, * 2 M re überzogen zusammen, 1 Umschlag, 3 M re, 1 Umschlag, 2 M re zusammen, 1 M re *, von *-* wdh, die R endet dann mit 2 M re überzogen zusammen, 1 Umschlag, 3 M re, 1 Umschlag und 2 M re zusammen.

Gerripho 06.08.2014 - 17:44:

Charts M4 are shown as 11 rows. So row 11 is knit from the RS. You cannot knit both the last row of chart M.4 and the first row of chart M.5 from the RS without a purl row between them. The same problem is in chart M.5 where it starts and ends with a knit row from the RS. It needs a purl row added. I still believe row 7 in chart M.4B should be K2tog, K4 (NOT K3), YO, k2tog, k2. I'm sorry if I didn't explain this well in my other post.

DROPS Design 02.10.2014 kl. 13:50:

Dear Mrs Gerripho, thank you, diagram M.4 and M.5 have been updated. Happy knitting!

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