DROPS / 94 / 1

DROPS 94-1 by DROPS Design

DROPS Jacket in Paris with wavy borders

Size: XS - S – M – L – XL - XXL

Materials: DROPS Paris from Garnstudio
550-600-650-700-800-900 g colour no. 50, lilac-mix
and use:
50 g colour no 17, off white for all sizes (for crochet border)

DROPS pointed needle size 5 mm.
DROPS pointed and circular needle size 4 mm (for Rib)
DROPS crochet hook size 5mm

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 17 sts x 22 rows on needle size 5 in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side


Back piece: Cast on 84-92-100-108-116-124 sts (inclusive of 1edge st each side, edge sts are knitted in garter st throughout) on needle size 5 with lilac-mix Paris. Knit stocking stitch with 1 edge st each side in garter st.
Read all of the following section before continuing:

Decreases at side: When piece measures 5 cm dec 1 st each side on every 4.-4.5 -4.5-5.-5.-5.5 cm a total of 6 times = 72-80-88-96-104-112 sts. At the same time, when piece measures 12 cm knit pattern as follows: 1 edge st, 6-4-5-6-4-5 sts in stocking st, M.1 over the next 66-78-84-90-102-108 sts, 6-4-5-6-4-5 sts in stocking st, 1 edge st. Knit pattern until piece measures 30 cm and then continue in stocking st over all sts.
When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm, dec for armhole each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4-6 times and 1 st 2-3-4-5-6-5 times = 62-64-66-68-70-72 sts remaining.
When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm cast off the middle 16-16-16-18-18-18 sts for neck and dec 1 st at neck line on next row = 22-23-24-24-25-26 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm.

Right Front: Cast on 18-20-22-24-26-28 sts (inclusive of 1 edge st at side) on needle size 5 with lilac-mix Paris.
Read all of the following section before continuing:

Knit stocking stitch with 1 edge st at side in garter st and increase towards mid front on every other row as follows (insert a marking thread where the increases start and where they finish – important as you need these markings when knitting the border): 3 sts 0-0-1-2-3-4 times, 2 sts 3-4-4-3-3-3 times and 1 st 9-9-8-8-7-6 times.
Decreases at side: At the same time, when piece measures 5 cm, dec as described for back piece. A the same time, when piece measures 12 cm (all inc at mid front have now been done) knit pattern as follows: 1 edge st, 1 stocking st, M/1 over the next 21-27-30-33-36-39 sts, remaining sts in stocking st. Continue the pattern like this until piece measures 30 cm and finish the piece in stocking st.
After all inc and dec are complete, there are 27-31-35-38-42-46 sts remaining. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm from cast-on row, dec for armhole as described for back piece = 22-23-24-24-25-26 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm.

Left front piece: As right front piece, but mirrored.

Sleeve: Cast on 51-51-58-58-58-58 sts (inclusive of 1 edge st each side) using pointed needle size 4 mm and lilac-mix Paris. Knit 2 rows stocking st and knit next row as follows from the right side: 1 edge st, *K3, P4*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st. When piece measures 4 cm, dec all P-sections from P4 to P3 = 44-44-50-50-50-50 sts. Continue in Rib until piece measures 15 cm. Change to needle size 5 mm and continue in stocking st. At the same time start inc 1 st each side on 5.-3.5-4.-2.5-2.-1.5 cm a total of 7-9-8-11-13-15 times = 58-62-66-72-76-80 sts.
When piece measures 50-48-46-45-43-42 cm cast off for sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 0-2-4-5-7-9 times, and 2 sts each side until piece measures 55 cm, now dec 3 sts each side and cast off on next row. Sleeve measures approx 56 cm

Assembly: Sew shoulder and side seams. Border: Pick up approx 330-348-366-384-402-420 sts (dividable by 6) from the right side using circular needle 4mm and lilac-mix Paris. Begin at the bottom mid back and pick up sts all round the opening. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round and continue in Rib: K3, P3. When Rib measures 4 cm, inc all P3 to P4 between the marking threads on front pieces. When Rib measures 8 cm, inc all P4 to P5 between the marking threads (to ensure the border fits the rounded front pieces). Cast off when Rib measures 12 cm.
Crochet border: With crochet hook size 5 and off-white Paris crochet round the knitted rib as follows: 1 dc in first knitted st, *4 ch, 1 tr in 1st ch, skip 3 knitted sts, 1 dc in next st*, repeat from *-*. Crochet border round sleeve edges.

Sew sleeve seams and set in sleeves.


This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 03.03.2006
Sleeve: Continue in Rib until piece measures 15 cm. Change to needle size 5 mm and continue in stocking st.
Updated online: 16.01.2018
New diagram M.1.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, 1 YO

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 94-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (46)

Dea 16.12.2019 - 22:43:

Buonasera, nel disegno del cardigan c'è scritto che il bordo in basso è 10 cm , ma nella spiegazione dice di fare 12 cm a coste, qual è quello giusto?

Dea 22.10.2019 - 12:10:

Buongiorno, volevo dire che dopo tutte le diminuzioni indicate per la manica , "Quando il lavoro misura 50-48-46-45-43-42 cm intrecciare per l’arrotondamento della manica a ogni lato a f. alterni come segue: 4 m. 1 volta, 3 m. 1 volta, 2 m. 2 volte, 1 m. 0-2-4-5-7-9 volte, e 2 m. a ogni lato fino a quando il lavoro misura 55 cm, ora diminuire 3 m. a ogni lato e intrecciare sul f. successivo. La manica misura circa 56 cm." rimangono 26 m per la taglia M . ^_^

Dea 03.09.2019 - 17:28:

Grazie. Secondo voi dovrei aumentare facendo delle maglie a nuovo? Mi sembra molto strano. Proverò a vedere come viene.

DROPS Design 04.09.2019 kl. 12:50:

Buongiorno Dea. Sono le maglie che verranno poi riprese quando lavorerà il bordo tutto intorno all’apertura. In questo modo eventuali irregolarità o scalini che si creano dove vengono avviate le maglie, si regolarizzeranno. Buon lavoro!

Dea 03.09.2019 - 09:55:

Buongiorno, ho iniziato il davanti dx e devo fare gli aumenti, come devo fare? Mi dice "3 m. 0-0-1-2-3-4 volte, 2 m. 3-4-4-3-3-3 volte e 1 m. 9-9-8-8-7-6 volte." ...come faccio per avere tre aumenti in una volta solo sul ferro? Devo farli tutti vicini? Nel senso, faccio il viv, poi una m a ma rasata e poi inizio con gli aumenti? Potete aiutarmi? Grazie.

DROPS Design 03.09.2019 kl. 10:39:

Buongiorno Dea. Per aumentare 3 maglie, può seguire le indicazioni riportate nel video. Gli aumenti vanno fatti non dal lato che verrà cucito al dietro, ma sul lato che si troverà verso il centro (quello che nella fotografia risulta arrotondato). Buon lavoro!

Joan Schroeder 16.01.2018 - 11:12:

Kan det være rigtig, at selve mønsteret - slå om, tag 1 m løs af p. 2 r sm, løft den løse m over, slå om - skal foretages fra vrang siden? På forhånd tak

DROPS Design 16.01.2018 kl. 14:08:

Hei Joan. Nei, det burde være slik at man strikker det fra rettsiden. Vi retter det til at 1.rad flyttes opp og blir siste rad på M.1. Takk for tilbakemeldigen. God Fornøyelse videre.

Carmen 22.10.2017 - 16:16:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, wird bei den Vorderteilen tatsächlich an der mittleren Kante für den V-Ausschnitt nicht abgenommen? Also, wenn die Zunahmen für die Rundung gemacht sind, stricke ich zur Mitte hin gerade nach oben weiter?

DROPS Design 23.10.2017 kl. 11:31:

Liebe Carmen, es gibt hier keine Abnahmen für den Halsausschnitt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Michela 31.08.2017 - 21:04:

La misura finale 56cm,ok,ma non c e ' scritto con quante maglie finali rimango.grazie e buona serata

DROPS Design 31.08.2017 kl. 22:10:

Buonasera Michela. Dopo aver lavorato queste diminuzioni: 4 m 1 volta, 3 m 1 volta, 2 m 2 volte, 1 m 0-2-4-5-7-9 volte, le rimangono 36 maglie nelle taglie XS, S, M e 40 maglie nelle taglie L - XL - XXL. Misura il lavoro e poi diminuisce 2 m da ciascun fino a quando il lavoro non misura 55 e infine 3 m da ciascun lato una volta. Buon lavoro!

Michela 31.08.2017 - 19:32:

Li Buonasera sto realizzando questo modello,ora ho difficoltà alla tromba della manica,alla fine delle diminuzioni quante maglie mi devo ritrovare?alla fine mi sono ritrovata una manica piu lunga cioè 62 invece di 56,forse sbaglio quando alterno i ferri x cui mi dilungo.grazie

DROPS Design 31.08.2017 kl. 19:59:

Buonasera Michela la misura finale della manica dovrebbe essere di 56 cm. Mentre lavora una manica prenda appunti sui veri giri e aumenti in modo da lavorare le due maniche in modo simmetrico. Buon lavoro!

Michele 13.03.2016 - 22:32:

Is this catalogue #94 still available for purchase, and if so is it most likely to be found? Thank you so much, Michele

DROPS Design 14.03.2016 kl. 09:56:

Dear Michelle, this catalog is out of print - but all of the pattern are still available for you to print them for free from our website. Happy knitting!

Julie Diesman 12.03.2016 - 16:48:

When doing the decreases that begins when piece measures 2", for the right/left front pieces, is the decrease only done on the side edge or on the side AND front edge?

DROPS Design 12.03.2016 kl. 17:59:

Dear Mrs Diesman, on right/left front piece, you dec on the side as for back piece, ie towards the side that will be sewn to back piece (opposite side of towards mid front/front edge). Happy knitting!

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