DROPS 80-17 / Suggest a name

Sizes: XS - S/M - M/L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-98-108-120 cm [31.5" - 34⅝" - 38⅝" - 42.5" - 47.25"]
Hem: 72-80-86-96-108 cm [28.25" - 31.5" - 33⅞" - 37.75" - 42.5"]

Materials: DROPS SILKE-TWEED from Garnstudio
250-300-350-350-400 gr nr 06, black
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 - 50 gr nr 03, burgundy
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 - 50 gr nr 10, grey
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 - 50 gr nr 17, natural

2 DROPS 3.5 mm [US 4] circular needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

7 DROPS Silver buttons nr 529


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 23 sts x 46 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

Pattern: See charts. There are 3 charts for Pattern 1 (M.1) – note the sizes shown on the top of the chart and use the appropriate chart for your size. The pattern is seen from the right side.
1 row of chart = 2 rows garter st.

Left Front:
Cast on 100-102-106-110-114 sts on one of the circular needles with black (this is the middle of the piece).
Read the entire section before knitting:
Row 1 (right side): Knit all sts, in the last st knit 2 sts. Starting from the same point you just ended, pick up and K (with the other circular needle) 2 sts in the first st, then 1 st in each st on the other side of the cast-on edge = 202-206-214-222-230 sts.
Row 2 (wrong side): Turn the work, and K all sts.
Row 3 (right side): Put a marker before the last st on the 1st circular needle and a marker after the first st on the other circular needle – there are 2 sts between markers, these are for bottom edge of the cardigan.
Change to grey and knit stripe pattern following Pattern 1 for color changes (use the appropriate chart for your size) as follows: K until 1 st before the 1st marker, K 2 sts in the st before the marker and 2 sts in the st after the marker, repeat at 2nd marker. Repeat this increase at each marker every other row.
Neckband: When you have knit 8-12-12-12-12 rows garter st (after 3-5-5-5-5 stripes) bind off for neck from right side at the beginning of every other row as follows: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 2 times = 18 sts bound off for the neck.
After all incs and decs are complete 260-272-280-296-304 sts are on the needles and the piece measures approx. 17-19-19-21-21 cm in width and 52-53-55-58-60 cm in height.
Now bind off at the side edge (= 119-123-127-133-137 sts) and at lower edge (= 40-44-44-48-48 sts). Knit 12 rows garter st with black over the 101-105-109-115-119 sts at the center front edge for buttonband, bind off.

Right front: Knit the same as the left , reversing all shaping. Make 6 buttonholes evenly distributed along the buttonbands after 4 rows garter st have been knit. The bottom buttonhole = approx. 3 cm from lower edge and top buttonhole approx. 6 cm from top edge (there will be 1 more buttonhole in neckband). (1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts over the bound off sts on the next row.)

Back + sides: Cast on 86-96-112-124-152 sts with black. Knit garter st. When the piece measures 8 cm put 1 marker 2-2-6-7-14 sts in from each side to mark the side «seam». Then inc 1 st each side of each marker every 5-5-4.5-4-4 cm 5-5-6-7-7 times = 106-116-136-152-180 sts. When the piece measures 33-33-34-36-37 cm bind off 3 sts at each side of both markers (= 6 sts for armhole). Knit each piece separately.

Side-front: = 4-4-9-11-18 sts. Bind off every other row: 2 sts 1-1-3-4-6 times and 1 st 2-2-3-3-6 times. Repeat on the other side-front.

Back: = 86-96-106-118-132 sts. Bind off at each side as on side-front = 78-88-88-96-96 sts. When the piece measures 50-51-53-56-58 cm bind off the center 26-26-26-30-30 sts for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 time = 23-28-28-30-30 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 52-53-55-58-60 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 52-54-56-56-60 sts with black. Knit Pattern 2, and then with black to finished measurements. When the piece measures 6 cm inc 1 st at each side every 3-3-2.5-2-2 cm a total of 14-15-16-19-19 times = 80-84-88-94-98 sts. When sleeve measures 50-50-48-47-45 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3-3-2-2-1 times, 1 st 8-8-15-17-23 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 57 cm. Bind off the remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew back to fronts. Sew shoulder seams.
Neckband: Pick up approx. 92-102 sts around the neck with black. Knit 6 rows garter st – after 2 rows make a buttonhole over the others on buttonband. Bind off. Sew sleeve seams and sew in sleeves. Sew on buttons.



Width: approx. 150 cm [59"]
Length at center back: approx. 90 cm [35⅜"]

Materials: DROPS VIENNA from Garnstudio
200 gr nr 21, natural

DROPS 12 mm [US 17] circular needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 8 sts in stockinette st = 10 cm in width.

Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Shawl: Loosely cast on 5 sts and follow chart for Pattern 3 (M.3) – row 1 = right side. After chart is complete continue to inc in the same manner – that is, make a yo inside of 2 sts at each side every other row, and on every row with bobbles (every 12th row) make a yo at each side and an extra yo inside the stockinette st in the middle. When shawl measures 90 cm K 1 row from wrong side and bind off with double strands of yarn.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = grey (1 row of chart = 2 rows garter st)
symbols = natural (1 row of chart = 2 rows garter st)
symbols = black (1 row of chart = 2 rows garter st)
symbols = burgundy (1 row of chart = 2 rows garter st)
symbols = K from right side, P from wrong side (shawl)
symbols = P from right side, K from wrong side (shawl)
symbols = yo (shawl)
symbols = bobble = K 1, yo, K 1 in same st, turn work, P 3, turn work, K 3, turn work, P 3, turn work, K 3 tog (shawl)
symbols = K 2 tog (shawl)
symbols = slip 1 as if to K, K 1, psso (shawl)
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Breige wrote:

I have started the left front, knitted until NECKBAND. Then it says knit 12 rows garter stitch ( 5 stripes).. I have knitted 6 rows of grey, 2 white, 2 black and 2 red which equals 12 rows, but does not equal 5 patterns/ My question is at what point do I start neck shaping?

10.12.2023 - 21:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Breige, each row in the chart corresponds to 2 rows in garter stitch, as stated in the diagram explanations. The rows included are: Row 1 and Row 2 (worked in black), Row 3 to Row 12 (the stripes pattern which include: 6 rows of grey, 2 white and 2 black). Each stripe = 1 row of the pattern or 1 ridge. So, after the 2 initial rows + 5 rows from the charts start with the neck shaping. Happy knitting!

10.12.2023 - 23:44

country flag Breige wrote:

I do not understand how on left front 12 rows of garter stitch equals 5 patterns? 6 Grey, 2 white, 2 black and 2 red equals 12 rows but only 4 stripes

06.12.2023 - 04:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Breige, can you please clarify, exactly what part of the left front you refer to? Only the necline mentions 12 rows of garter stitch, there you do have to remember, that one ridge = 2 rows. Happy Knitting.

10.12.2023 - 20:58

country flag Jonna wrote:

Hej, er ved at begynde på model 80-17. Men når man ser på mønsterdiagrammet, passer farverne i oversigten og diagrammet ikke. Den farve som hedder “ burgunder” ses ikke i diagrammet, eller rettere er angivet med forkert tegn.

27.01.2019 - 16:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jonna. Burgunder er en sort "diamant", og er den nest øverste fargen i diagrammene M.1 blant annet. Feks er fargerekkefølgen i M.1 i størrelse S/M + M/L (lest i strikkeretning - nedenfra og opp): 3 rader grå, 1 rad natur, 1 rad sort, 1 rda burgunder, 3 rader sort, 2 rader natur, 3 rader grå, 3 rader burgunder. Dette er et elder diagram, og det er sikkrt derfor enkelte av tegnene ser litt ulike ut i symbolforklaringen enn i selve diagrammet. Vi skal se om vi kan få oppdatert dette diagrammet etterhvert. God fornøyelse.

29.01.2019 - 13:52

Rosa wrote:

After knitting all decs and incs for the left front panel, the pattern says "knit 12 rows garter st with black over the 101-119 st at the center front edge for buttonband, bind off". I am thinking that it should not be 12 rows but 12 ridges, therefore 24 rows. The same goes for the right front, where the pattern says to start buttonholes 'after 4 rows of garter st have been knit.' Should that be 4 ridges, i.e. 8 rows?

15.10.2017 - 18:20

DROPS Design answered:

DROPS Design: Dear Rosa, as the pattern says, the buttonbands. should be 12 rows, or 6 ridges in garter stitch. On the right side the buttonholes should Be made after 2 ridges (= 4 rows). However, if you would prefer slightly wider bands, you can add a couple of rows, to both sides. Happy Knitting!

15.10.2017 - 23:11

country flag Will Zegers wrote:

Het is gelukt, het gemakkelijkste is om de steken met een haaknaald op te nemen en dan op de breinaald te zetten.

23.04.2016 - 17:27

country flag Will Zegers wrote:

Dank je ga proberen of het lukt

19.04.2016 - 19:46

country flag Will Zegers wrote:

Wil heel graag dit vestje breien maar het lukt met niet om de steken langs de opzetdraad op te nemen, heb je een tip hoe dit wel lukt? Of een video?

16.04.2016 - 11:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Will. Bekijk deze video van hoe je st kan opnemen:

18.04.2016 - 13:54

country flag Paula Schuit wrote:

Hoi garna, begrijpt u het patroon ook niet of is het druk? PS. wordt het achtergedeelte ook overdwars gebreid? groet paula

27.10.2015 - 15:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Paula. Het is erg druk!

28.10.2015 - 11:25

country flag Paula Schuit wrote:

Dag drops, hier ben ik weer... ben bezig met achter- en zijpanden. vraag: brei de delen afzonderlijk verder... waar naar toe, tot waar? zijvoorpand: = 4 st. vraag: waar vandaan? achterpand: vraag: waar beginnen die 86 st. ik heb dus geen idee, ik kan het patroon niet voor me zien. Idee voor een update van het patroon... duidelijke tekening waar wat zit. groet paula

26.10.2015 - 10:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Paula. Je hebt 2 markeerders in het werk, deze markeren de zijnaden. Dus de steken aan elke zijkant zijn zijvoorpand en de steken in het midden = achterpand. Je breit van beneden naar boven. Je meerdert zoals beschreven en breit tot 33 cm en kant 3 st af aan beide zijkanten van beide merkdraden (= 6 st voor beide armsgaten). Vanaf hier brei je de delen afzonderlijk verder. Je hebt 4 st voor elk zijvoorpand en 86 voor het achterpand. Dus goed doorlezen en doen precies zoals beschreven. Ivm drukte kan ik niet altijd snel reageren - gemiddeld 3-4 werkdagen.

28.10.2015 - 12:44

country flag Paula Schuit wrote:

Dank u wel voor alle hulp. ik ben er erg blij mee groet paula

23.10.2015 - 11:37