DROPS Daisy
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g

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Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Winter Rain Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Daisy or DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted top down with raglan, cables, relief pattern and double neck edge. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:

DROPS 252-4
DROPS design: Pattern da-015
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS DAISY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-750-800-900-950 g colour 01, off white

Or use:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
650-750-800-900-950-1050 g colour 01, off white

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTON NO 511: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch on needle size 4 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigans Classic Textures assembly free cable double neck raglan relief round neck top down

UK
Ireland

DROPS Daisy
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH:
Knit on all rows, i.e. knit from right side and knit from wrong side.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

BAND WITH I-CORD:
BEGINNING OF ROW:
Work band as follows: Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1 and work 6 stitches in garter stitch.
END OF ROW:
Work band as follows: Work until 8 stitches remain on row, work 6 stitches in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.
Work the same way both from right side and wrong side.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8.
Number of stitches in A.1, A.2, A.3x, A.7x and A.8 will vary but is always counted without the yarn over that forms the lace in the cable.
Find your size and begin at the specified arrow.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row work yarns over as explained below:
BEFORE RAGLAN STITCH:
Purl yarn overs in back loop of stitches to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in pattern.
AFTER RAGLAN STITCH:
Slip stitch off left needle and put it back on left needle but the opposite way (insert left needle in from behind when slipping it back on needle). Purl yarn overs in front loop of stitches to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in pattern

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 6 stitches remain on row as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work band as before and knit yarn over to make a buttonhole.
Decrease for first buttonhole on first row from right side after neck edge has been worked. Then decrease the next 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes, approx. 9-9½-9½-8½-8½-9 cm apart. Place bottom buttonhole in the transition between stocking stitch and rib.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of stitch with marker as follows:
Work until 2 stitches remain before stitch with marker, knit 2 together, knit 1 (marker is in this stitch) slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
In this pattern needles of different length have been used, begin with fitting length for number of stitches and switch as needed.
Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down.
When yoke is done, divide piece for body and sleeves. Work body downwards back and forth on circular needle while putting the sleeves aside. Then work sleeves downwards in the round on needle. Fold the neck edge double against the wrong side and fasten.
If 0 is given for the chosen size, it means that you skip the information until next information.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 111-115-123-127-135-139 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with DROPS Daisy or DROPS Karisma. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm (cast on on a larger needle to get an elastic cast-on edge).
Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work next row from right side as follows: Work 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above over, work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) over the first 25-25-27-27-31-31 stitches, work A.1, work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) over the next 47-51-55-59-59-63 stitches, work A.1, work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) over the next 25-25-27-27-31- 31 stitches, finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this until neck edge measures 3½-3½-3½-4-4-4 cm (= approx. height of neck edge when it is folded double).
At the end of each of the next 2 rows cast on 7 stitches for band = 125-129-137-141-149-153 stitches on needle, work band stitches as BAND WITH I-CORD - read explanation above. Then work until neck edge measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm– adjust so that last row is last row in A.1.
Insert 1 marker on the inside of band in one side of piece, measure piece from this marker.

YOKE:
Continue with circular needle size 4 mm. Insert 4 markers in piece without working the stitches, markers are inserted in 1 stitch and these are called raglan stitches and worked in stocking stitch.
Count 28-28-28-28-32-32 stitches (= left front piece), insert 1 marker in next stitch, count 14-14-18-18-18-18 stitches - A.1 is in the middle of these stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next stitch, count 37-41-41-45-45-49 stitches (= back piece), insert 1 marker in next stitch, count 14-14-18-18-18-18 stitches - A.1 is in the middle of these stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next stitch. 28-28-28-28-32-32 stitches remain on row after last marker (= right front piece).
Work PATTERN – read explanation above, with band as before, back and forth and increase for RAGLAN on each side of the 4 raglan stitches - read explanation above.

Work first row as follows from right side:
FRONT PIECE: Work band as before (= 8 stitches band), work A.2 over the next 19 stitches AT THE SAME TIME increase 6 stitches evenly over these, work A.3a over the next 1-1-1-1-5-5 stitches AT THE SAME TIME as increasing 0-0-0-0-1-1 stitch over these (= 34-34-34-34-39-39 stitches for front piece - not included yarn over), knit the raglan stitch.
SLEEVE: Work A.4, work A.6 over the next 0-0-2-2-2-2 stitches, work A.1, work A.5 – begin at specified arrow (= 14-14-18-18-18-18 stitches for sleeve – not included yarn over).
BACK PIECE: Knit the raglan stitch, work A.4, work A.6 over the next 33-37-37-41-41-45 stitches (pattern will not fit 4, but back piece will be symmetrical) (= 37-41-41-45-45-49 stitches for back piece), increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit the raglan stitch.
SLEEVE: Work A.4, work A.6 over the next 0-0-2-2-2-2 stitches, work A.1, work A.5 – begin at specified arrow (= 14-14-18-18-18-18 stitches for sleeve – not included yarn over).
FRONT PIECE: Knit the raglan stitch, work A.7a over the next 1-1-1-1-5-5 stitches AT THE SAME TIME increase 0-0-0-0-1-1 stitch over these, work A.8 over the next 19 stitches AT THE SAME TIME increase 6 stitches evenly over these, finish with band as before (= 8 stitches band), (= 34-34-34-34-39-39 stitches for front piece - not included yarn over) – remember BUTTONHOLE.

Continue back and forth like this - remember to work the yarn overs in raglan increase as explained above.
When A.4 and A.5 have been worked vertically, continue moss stitch and increases in the established pattern on sleeves and back piece, work the new stitch in pattern. When A.3a and A.7a (= 19-19-19-19-21-21 increase rows) have been worked vertically in the selected size, work A.3x over A.3a and A.7x over A.7a, AT THE SAME TIME increase with A.3b and A.7b until finish number of raglan increases vertically. Remember to follow the knitting tension!
Increase for raglan on every other row 29 times in total = 72-72-76-76-76-76 stitches between raglan stitches for each sleeve, 71-71-71-71-77-77 stitches for front piece (not included yarn over), and 95-99-99-103-103-107 stitches for back piece + 4 raglan stitches = 385-389-397-401-413-417 stitches.
Increases for sleeve are now done, but continue to increase for raglan on front piece and back piece on every other row 2-4-4-6-8-12 more times (i.e. 31-33-33-35-37-41 times vertically for front/back piece) = 393-405-413-425-445-465 stitches on needle(not included yarn overs). When correct number of increases has been achieved on front pieces and back pieces, continue with A.3y over A.3b and A.7y over A.7b - make sure that the pattern fits over the established pattern.
Work pattern and band as before without increasing until piece measures 23-24-25-26-28-30 cm from marker mid front – adjust so that last row is last row in A.1. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves.

DIVIDING FOR BODY AND SLEEVES:
AT THE SAME TIME as next row is worked divide yoke for body and sleeves at raglan stitches as follows: Work 74-76-76-78-86-90 stitches as before - to and with raglan stitches (= front piece), slip the next 72-72-76-76-76-76 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 3-7-15-19-23-23 new stitches on row (= in the side mid under sleeve), work 101-109-109-117-121-133 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 72-72-76-76-76-76 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 3-7-15-19-23-23 new stitches on row (= in the side mid under sleeve) and work the last 74-76-76-78-86-90 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
= 255-275-291-311-339-359 stitches (not included yarn overs).
Work pattern and band as follows:
Work band, work A.2, A.3x, A.3y, continue with moss stitch / A.6 from A.3y over raglan stitches and the new stitches under sleeve (pattern fits between front piece and back piece), work moss stitch until and with last raglan stitch, (moss stitch continues into A.7y), work A.7y, A.7x, A.8, finish with band.
Work pattern and band as before until piece measures 46-48-49-50-52-54 cm from marker mid front.
On next row from right side begin rib while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 10-14-18-24-30-32 stitches evenly over back piece = 265-289-309-335-365-391 stitches, work as follows:
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm, work band as before, work rib (= knit 1/purl 1 - remember increase) until 9 stitches remain, knit 1 and band as before.
When rib measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Jacket measures 51-53-54-56-58-60 cm from marker mid front and approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the top of shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Slip 72-72-76-76-76-76 sleeve stitches from one thread on to circular needle size 4 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 3-7-15-19-23-23 stitches cast on under sleeve = 75-79-91-95-99-99 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 3-7-15-19-23-23 new stitches under sleeve - round begins in this stitch and this stitch is always worked in stocking stitch.
Adjust so that pattern A.6 and A.1 continue as before from yoke over sleeve - the pattern will not fit under sleeve but it is important that the pattern is symmetrical on each side of A.1.
Work in the round with pattern as before on needle - AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 2-2-4-2-2-2 cm from division, decrease mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP and decrease as follows: Decrease 2 stitches every 3-2½-1½-1½-1½-1½ cm 11-12-17-18-18-18 times in total = 53-55-57-59-63-63 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 35-35-35-33-32-30 cm from division.
Work next round as follows:
Knit 24-25-26-27-29-29 stitches while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 5-4-5-6-6-6 stitches evenly over these (= 29-29-31-33-35-35 stitches), work A.1 as before, knit 23-24-25-26-28-28 stitches while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 5-6-7-6-6-6 stitches evenly over these (= 28-30-32-32-34-34 stitches) = 63-65-69-71-75-75 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) over de first 29-29-31-33-35-35 stitches, work A.1, work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) over the last 28-30-32-32-34-34 stitches. Continue rib in the round like this until rib measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm– adjust so that last round is last round in A.1.
Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures approx. 40-40-40-39-38-36 cm from division.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold rib at the top of neck down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic. Sew opening towards mid front together on bands with neat little stitches. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over to make a hole
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked
	= this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
	= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
	= slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted as explained in pattern to avoid holes
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted as explained in pattern to avoid holes
	= slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
	= slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
	= slip 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
	= slip 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
	= slip 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
	= find your size in pattern and begin from this row

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Nelly Lafon wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai terminé A.4 et A.5 j'ai continué le point de riz et les augmentations des manches et du dos je vois que après A.3a et A.7a on tricote A.3x et A.7x par contre pouvez-vous me dire quand et à quel emplacement on tricote A.3b et A.7b merci d'avance pour votre réponse

17.09.2024 - 14:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lafon, quand A.3a /A.7a sont terminés, vous continuez à augmenter comme indiqué dans A.3b/A.7b et tricotez les autres mailles comme dans A.3x/A.7x. Bon tricot!

17.09.2024 - 16:26

Brigitte Vanderbecken wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai terminé le premier rang après les côtes. " ne pas oublier de tricoter les jetés DES augmentations des raglant. Je ne vois qu'1 augmentation dans le dos, ou sont les autres ? Merci pour votre réponse. Brigitte

11.09.2024 - 15:04

Bonjour Brigitte, vous augmentez pour les raglans ainsi: pour le devant gauche comme indiqué à la fin de A.3a (1 jeté = ovale noir), pour les manches: dansA.4 au début et dans A.5 à la fin de la manche, pour le dos: dans A.4 au début + 1 jeté à la fin du dos; et pour le devant droit: au début de A.7a. Bon tricot!

12.09.2024 - 09:13

Jmfs wrote: