Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= camel | |
= forest | |
= light beige | |
= walnut | |
= blush | |
= bordeaux | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over which is worked twisted on the next row to avoid a hole |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Forest Echo Cardigan |
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Knitted jacket in DROPS Nepal. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, multi-coloured pattern, double neck and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 244-10 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge = knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch. INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g., 96 stitches) minus bands (e.g., 14 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g., 14) = 5.8. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 5th and 6 th stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. EDGE STITCHES: Work 2 edges at the beginning of the row: Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1. Work 2 edges at the end of the row: Work until there are 2 stitches left on the row, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1. Repeat at the beginning and end of each row. BUTTONHOLES: Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 5 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 3. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole. The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the neck. The other 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes are then worked with approx. 9-9-8-8-9-9 cm between each one. The bottom buttonhole is worked in the transition between the stocking stitch and rib. KNITTING TIP: To avoid the knitting tension losing its elasticity when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if the piece becomes tight. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE. The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. DOUBLE NECK: Cast on 84-88-92-96-100-104 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and colour camel DROPS Nepal. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Work as follows from the right side: 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib for 5 cm. Cast on 6 stitches at the end of the next 2 rows = 96-100-104-108-112-116 stitches. Work as follows from the right side: 2 EDGE STITCHES – read description above, 5 garter stitches (7 band stitches), * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 9 stitches left, knit 2, 5 garter stitches and 2 EDGE STITCHES (7 band stitches). Continue this rib for 5 cm (10 cm rib in total). Work as follows from the right side: 7 band stitches as before, knit 82-86-90-94-98-102 and increase 29-37-41-49-53-57 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP, work 7 band stitches as before = 125-137-145-157-165-173 stitches. YOKE: Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (band stitches worked as before). Read KNITTING TIP and BUTTONHOLES and work as follows from the right side: 7 band stitches as before, work A.1, A.2 until there are 11 stitches left, work A.3 and 7 band stitches as before. The bands are worked with colour camel as far as the row with an arrow in A.1, then continued with colour light beige, (if light beige is not used in the pattern, twist the strand together with the pattern strand to avoid a hole; to avoid carrying the strand along the row you can work with 1 small ball for each band). On the last row in A.1/ A.2/ A.3 increase 5-9-7-11-9-7 stitches evenly spaced = 238-266-280-308-322-336 stitches. Now work as follows: 7 band stitches as before, A.4, A.5 until there are 7 stitches left, work 7 band stitches as before. When A.4 and A.5 are finished in height, there are 269-301-317-349-365-381 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and band stitches as before, using colour light beige and decrease 4 stitches evenly on the first row = 265-297-313-345-361-377 stitches. When the yoke measures 25-25-25-26-28-30 cm (from the neck), divide for the body and sleeves on the next row as follows: Work 46-50-52-58-62-65 stitches as before (front piece), place the next 48-56-60-64-64-66 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 77-85-89-101-109-115 stitches (back piece), place the next 48-56-60-64-64-66 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the remaining 46-50-52-58-62-65 stitches as before (front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here! BODY: = 181-197-209-233-253-269 stitches. Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 cast-on stitches under each sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when dividing for the split in each side. Work stocking stitch back and forth (and the band stitches as before) until the body measures 19-21-23-24-24-24 cm from the division – finish after a row from the wrong side. Now divide for the split in each side and finish each piece separately. Place the right front and back piece on separate threads = 49-53-56-62-67-71 stitches on the needle (left front piece). LEFT FRONT PIECE: Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 10-10-11-13-12-16 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP (do not increase over the band) = 59-63-67-75-79-87 stitches. Work as follows from the wrong side: 2 garter stitches, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 9 stitches left, purl 2 and 7 band stitches as before. Continue this rib for 10 cm. Cast off. The jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder. BACK PIECE: Place the 83-91-97-109-119-127 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 19-19-21-21-23-27 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP = 102-110-118-130-142-154 stitches. Work as follows from the wrong side: 2 garter stitches, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 2 and 2 garter stitches. Continue this rib for 10 cm. Cast off. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Place the 49-53-56-62-67-71 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 10-10-11-13-12-16 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP (do not increase over the band) = 59-63-67-75-79-87 stitches. Work as follows from the wrong side: 7 band stitches as before, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 2 and 2 garter stitches. Continue this rib for 10 cm. Cast off. SLEEVES: Place the 48-56-60-64-64-66 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-62-68-72-74-78 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Start at the marker-thread and work stocking stitch in the round with colour light beige. When the sleeve measures 3 cm, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 12-6-5-3½-3½-2½ cm a total of 3-5-6-8-7-9 times = 48-52-56-56-60-60 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 30-30-31-30-29-27 cm from the division (or to desired length. There is approx. 10 cm left). Knit 1 round and increase 12-12-12-12-12-12 stitches evenly spaced = 60-64-68-68-72-72 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 10 cm. Cast off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 40-40-41-40-39-37 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic. Sew together the openings on each band with small stitches. Sew the buttons onto the left band. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (7)
Ulrika wrote:
När man börjar med oket ska man väl sticka 4 cm innan man börjar med mönstret? Så står det i herrvarianten och det ser så ut på bilden.
25.12.2023 - 15:38DROPS Design answered:
Hej Ulrika, du stickar enligt diagrammet direkt när du har börjat på oket, som vi beskriver i mönstret :)
02.01.2024 - 10:02Pilar Sanz wrote:
Buenos días, no consigo encontrar el diagrama A.6 para hacer el canesú. He leído y releído todo el patrón y no encuentro indicaciones para hacerlo. ¿Podéis, por favor, guiarme en esto? Muchas gracias
21.12.2023 - 13:52DROPS Design answered:
Hola Pilar, hay una errata en el patrón, la corregiremos lo antes posible.
28.12.2023 - 23:06Igodt Sandra wrote:
Goeienavond, is het soms mogelijk dat er meer meerderingen moeten gemaakt worden in de laatste naald van het eerste telpatroon, Ik bekom 255 steken ipv 280, het komt volledig mooi uit maar ik begrijp niet hoe je de meerderingen en waar je ze moet maken om aan 280 steken te komen.Graag jullie hulp aub
23.10.2023 - 17:14Hanne wrote:
Ser at jeg har tenkt feil, skjønte det når jeg leste oppskriften på annet språk. Her er oversettelsen dårlig til norsk. Burde stått 7 stolpemasker som før, strikk a1, gjenta a2 til det gjenstår 11 masker.
09.10.2023 - 18:33Hanne wrote:
Det står at når en er ferdig med diagram A.1/A.2/A.3 økes det 9 masker jevnt fordelt til 266 masker. Men hvis en følger diagrammet ender en opp med 241 masker og hvis en øker 9 får en 250 ikke 266.
09.10.2023 - 13:23DROPS Design answered:
Hej Hanne, du har 137 m, tager 2 masker ud i A.1, tager 4 masker ud i A.2 (som strikkes 29 gange) = 116 ud, tager 2 masker ud i A.3 = 257 + 9 jævnt fordelt = 266 masker
17.10.2023 - 12:14Angelika wrote:
Bei Rücken- und Vorderteile werden laut Beschreibung Nadeln Nr. 3,5 benutzt. Anfangs werden aber nur Nadeln Nr. 4 und Nr. 5 aufgeführt. Was stimmt?
01.10.2023 - 17:54DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Angelika, danke für den Hinweis, Bündchen sollen mit Nadeln Nr 4 gestrickt werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
09.11.2023 - 13:25Birgitte wrote:
Sweet prism
04.08.2023 - 10:58