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Winter Lines by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted top down with relief pattern.

Keywords: honeycomb, relief, shawl, top down, zigzag

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DROPS 234-46
DROPS design: Pattern me-254
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
Height: Measured along the middle = approx. 48 cm = 19"
Width: Measured along the top side from side to side = approx. 144 cm = 56 1/2".

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300 g color 08, light beige

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length: 80 cm = 32”
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
21 stitches in width and 42 rows vertically in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool 		from 4.55 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.55 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.55 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.30$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (in each side of shawl):
Increase from both right side and wrong side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over inside outermost stitch in each side. On next row knit/purl yarn over depending on pattern (it should make a hole).

INCREASE TIP-2 (the middle of shawl):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase by making 1 yarn over on each side of stitch with marker.
Work yarn overs as follows – from wrong side:
BEFORE STITCH WITH MARKER:
Purl yarn over in back loop of stitch. It should not make a hole.
AFTER STITCH WITH MARKER:
Slip yarn over off left needle and put it back on left needle but the opposite way (insert left needle in from behind when slipping it back on needle). Purl yarn over in front loop of stitch. It should not make a hole.
Then work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Because of the number of stitch it might be wise to distribute the stitches on several circular needle of the same size when increasing.

SHAWL:
Cast on 7 stitches on circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 with DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Knit 1 row from wrong side. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on needle - this is the middle stitch and the middle stitch is worked in stockinette stitch until finished measurements.
Then work and increase as follows:

ROW 1 (= right side): 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, increase 1 stitch - read INCREASE TIP-1, knit until middle stitch, increase 1 stitch on each side of middle stitch - read INCREASE TIP-2, knit until 1 stitch remains, increase 1 stitch - read INCREASE TIP-1, finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch (= 4 stitches increased).

ROW 2 (= wrong side): 1 stitch in garter stitch, increase 1 stitch - remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit until middle stitch (work yarn overs as explained in INCREASE TIP-2), purl middle stitch, knit until 1 stitch remains, increase 1 stitch - remember INCREASE TIP-1, finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch (= 2 stitches increased).
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until piece measures 5 cm = 2" in knitting direction = approx. 67 stitches on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTION:
Now work pattern according to diagram as explained below - read the section PATTERN below before continuing.
AT THE SAME TIME continue increases the same way as before, i.e. increase 4 stitches from right side and 2 stitches from wrong side the entire piece.

PATTERN:
Begin each diagram from right side, after increase at the beginning of row. Work diagram as far as you can until middle stitch, work the increased stitches that do not fit the pattern in stockinette stitch/garter stitch until middle stitch.
Increase on each side of middle stitch as before, work the same number of stitches in stockinette stitch/garter stitch after middle stitch, begin diagram so that the pattern is symmetrical on each side of middle stitch (A.3A and A.3C will not be quite symmetrical on each side of middle stitch), work diagram until increase at the end of row.
Work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch, work the edge stitch in each side in garter stitch and work the middle stitch in stockinette stitch. Follow the order of diagrams as explained below.

Work A.1 as explained above until piece measures 15 cm = 6" in knitting direction and next row is from right side. There are now approx. 151 stitches on needle.

Work A.2 as explained above. When A.2 has been worked, there are approx. 181 stitches on needle and next row is worked from right side.

Work A.3 as explained above (i.e. work A.3A, work A.3B 10 times in total, A.3C and work any remaining stitches before middle stitch in stockinette stitch - after middle stitch work the same number of stitches in stockinette stitch as before middle stitch, then work pattern the same way, i.e. A.3A, A.3B 10 times in total, A.3C).
When A.3 has been worked, there are approx. 235 stitches on needle and next row is worked from right side.

Work A.4 as explained above - at the same time on next to last row increase 36 stitches evenly (18 stitches on each side of middle stitch). When A.4 has been worked, there are approx. 325 stitches on needle and next row is worked from right side.

Work A.5 as explained above. Work A.5 2 times in total vertically. After A.5 there are approx. 373 stitches on needle and next row is worked from right side.

Work 2 rows in stockinette stitch with increases as before and 1 stitch in garter stitch in each side as before - at the same time on first row (right side) decrease 36 stitches evenly (18 stitches on each side of middle stitch) = approx. 343 stitches on needle and next row is worked from right side.

Then work 7 ridges in garter stitch back and forth (work middle stitch in stockinette stitch), and increase the same way as before. After last row from wrong side there are approx. 385 stitches on needle.
Shawl measures approx. 38 cm = 15" in knitting direction. Bind off somewhat loosely by knitting from the right side.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over in back loop of stitch to avoid a hole (stitch is twisted towards the left seen from right side)
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row slip yarn over off left needle, put it back on left needle but the opposite way (insert left needle from behind when slipping it back on needle). Purl yarn over in front loop of stitch to avoid a hole (stitch is twisted towards the right seen from right side)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 234-46) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Strickerin wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team,\r\nich komme mit Muster A3 A-C nicht zurecht. Obwohl ich der Anleitung genau folge und das Video zu den Zunahmen in Rückreihen geschaut habe, sehen nur die sich nach rechts neigenden Hälften des Dreiecksmusters (auf der rechten Seite meines Tuchs) so aus wie auf den Fotos zum Schal. Auch auf einem kleinen Musterstück will es nicht klappen und mir gehen die Ideen aus, was ich noch probieren könnte. Haben Sie vielleicht einen Tipp für mich? Herzliche Grüße K.

21.04.2023 - 14:02

country flag Uta wrote:

Die Wolle soll in beige gekauft werden, aber ich möchte gerne dieses Tuch wie auf dem Foto blau-beige stricken. Wie bekommt man das hin? Danke

13.01.2023 - 15:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Uta, am besten wenden Sie sich direkt an Ihrem DROPS Händler, dort wird man Ihnen die beste passende Farbe - auch per Telefon oder per E-Mail - empfehlen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.01.2023 kl. 15:28

country flag Ingela Hill wrote:

Behöver hjälp med diagrammet A3A. Det blir fel hela tiden. Jag får inte zickzacken. Allt lutar åt samma håll. Särskilt på fjärde raden i diagrammet där det är en maskas mellanrum. Det blir jättekonstigt. Då får jag det inte att stämma med de första varven =( med hoptagning och omslag.) Ritat upp på rutpapper hur många gånger som helst. Hoppas ni förstår vad jag menar

01.12.2022 - 18:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ingela. Litt usikker på hva du helt mener, men husk å lese begge øketips og hvordan de skal strikkes og husk å lese riktig forklaring til riktig diagramikon. Strikk gjerne en liten prøvelapp av A.3a slik at du ser at det blir en sikksakk. mvh DROPS Design

05.12.2022 kl. 11:47

country flag Hansi Koekkoek wrote:

Wat wordt er precies bedoeld met: “brei A. 3A, brei A. 3B 10 keer in totaal, A. 3C” ????

14.11.2022 - 02:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Hansi,

Aan het begin van de naald brei je eerst A.3A, dan herhaal je 10 keer in de breedte A.3B en tot slot brei je de laatste steken voor de middelste steek op de naald in A3C. Dan brei je de middelste steek om vervolgens nog een de patronen te herhalen zoals hierboven beschreven.

14.11.2022 kl. 20:51

country flag Hansi Koekkoek wrote:

Ik begrijp À.3A À.3B A.3C niet. Kunt u dit wat duidelijker uitleggen? Overigens een mooi patroon.

11.11.2022 - 22:36

country flag Renate wrote:

Hallo nettes Drops Team. . Nun Meine Frage.Warum werden 18 maschen aufegnommen und dann wieder abgenommen: Wenn ich das Tuch verlängeren möchte bleibt es dann bei den 18 Maschen? Vielen lieben Dank

10.11.2022 - 20:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Renate, man braucht mehr Maschen für die Zöpfen in A.5 als für Glattrechts, deshalb werden 18 Maschen x 2 (36 Maschen insgesamt) zugenommen dann wieder abgenommen - ja nach die gewünschte Länge sollen Sie dann vielleicht mehr als 18 M x 2 abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.11.2022 kl. 09:07

country flag Teresa Andreani wrote:

Ci deve essere un errore sul FERRO 1 di fatto sono 2 gli aumenti e non 4 mentre sul FERRO 2 gli aumenti sono 4 e non 2 e quindi gli aumenti di 4 maglie risultano sul rovescio e non sul diritto

10.11.2022 - 12:27

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Teresa, grazie per la segnalazione, abbiamo corretto il testo del ferro 1: gli aumenti sono 4 per il ferro 1 e 2 per il ferro 2. Buon lavoro!

10.11.2022 kl. 21:58

country flag Danielle Berthiaume wrote:

Très joli châle, j'adore ce design, la couleur il semble tellement doux et chaud. Merci de nous l'offrir

06.08.2022 - 07:11

country flag Purlyplatypus wrote:

Guernsey spring

05.08.2022 - 07:36

country flag Helene wrote:

Beautiful textures!

05.08.2022 - 01:59

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