DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.30£. Read more.

Audrey Vest

Knitted vest / slipover in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked in stocking stitch with ribbed edges, V-neck and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 220-43
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-136
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-200-200-200-250-250 g colour 15, aquamarine

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 118 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 24) = 4.9. 
In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 4th and 5th stitch.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for armholes):
Decrease on the inside of 2 stitches. All decreases are worked from the right side.
Decrease as follows at the beginning of the row:
Knit 2, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Decrease as follows at the end of the row: Work until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2 together and knit the last 2 stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth, in sections and sewn together to finish. The V-neck and armhole edges are worked in the round to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 118-130-138-150-166-182 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Sky. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Then work the next row from the right side as follows: 2 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2 and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 6 cm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side then knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 24-28-28-30-34-36 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 94-102-110-120-132-146 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm.
Work stocking stitch back and forth, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm, cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time, then 2 stitches 2-2-2-3-3-3 times on each side. Then decrease inside 2 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch on each side 8-11-14-16-21-27 times – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 64-66-68-70-72-74 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch.
When the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm, cast off the middle 34-34-36-36-38-38 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 14-15-15-16-16-17 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working stocking stitch until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm (25-26-27-28-29-30 cm from the bottom of the armhole). Cast off with knit from the right side (making sure the cast-off edge is not tight). Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 118-130-138-150-166-182 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Sky. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Then work the next row from the right side as follows: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2 and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 6 cm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side then knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 24-28-28-30-34-36 stitches evenly spaced = 94-102-110-120-132-146 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm.
Work stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row, with 47-51-55-60-66-73 stitches on each side (this marker is used when working the V-neck).

READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue with stocking stitch and cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row as follows: 3 stitches 1 time, then 2 stitches 2-2-2-3-3-3 times on each side. Then decrease inside 2 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch on each side 8-11-14-16-21-27 times = 64-66-68-70-72-74 stitches.

V-NECK:
At the same time when the piece measures 31-33-34-36-37-39 cm start to decrease for the V-neck. Start from the right side and work as before until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Place the remaining stitches on a thread without working them.
Each shoulder is finished separately; do not cut the strand. The left shoulder is continued from here, working back from the wrong side.

LEFT SHOULDER (front piece):
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck, decreasing inside this edge stitch at the end of each row from the right side. Decrease every 2nd row 17-17-18-18-19-19 more times (a total of 18-18-19-19-20-20 decreases, decrease by knitting 2 together, the first decrease was made when the front piece was divided) = 14-15-15-16-16-17 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck until the piece measures a total of 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cast off with knit from the right side.

RIGHT SHOULDER (front piece):
Place the stitches from the thread back on the needle.
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck (the first row is worked from the right side), decreasing for the neck inside the edge stitch at the beginning of each row from the right side. Decrease every 2nd row (slipping 1 stitch, knitting 1 and passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch) a total of 18-18-19-19-20-20 times = 14-15-15-16-16-17 stitches left on the shoulder. NOTE! The first decrease is on the first row worked). Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck until the piece measures a total of 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cast off with knit from the right side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches, inside the cast-off edges. Start under the armholes and sew the side seams inside the 1 edge stitch – leave approx. 6 cm open for the split on each side.

NECK:
Start from the right side, at the bottom of the V-neck using short circular needle size 3.5 mm and knit up 168 to 184 stitches (number of stitches must be divisible by 4 and the stitches are knitted up inside the 1 edge stitch), first along the right side, then around the back of the neck and down the left side. Work the first row from the wrong side as follows; 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work this rib back and forth for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
At the bottom of the V-neck, mid-front, lay the right side over the left side and sew down neatly in the outermost stitch on the neck-edge. Repeat in the same way on the inside of the neck, so the left side is sewn onto the right side.

ARMHOLE-EDGE:
Start from the right side by the side seam under the armhole. Using short circular needle size 3.5 mm, knit up 124 to 152 stitches around the armhole (number of stitches must be divisible by 4). Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other armhole in the same way.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (69)

country flag ODILE NAVARRO wrote:

Bonjour, j aimerai tricoter le modèle sans manche AUDREY VEST, mais je ne peux travailler avec des aiguilles circulaires, existe-il un patron avec des aiguilles droites ? Merci pour votre réponse . Cordialement . Odile.

04.03.2024 - 15:42

country flag Ira wrote:

Hello, the pattern for the back piece calls for a "decrease inside 2 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch on each side", does it mean that the decrease should be done both in the rs and ws or only in the rs like it was written on the decrease tip 2?

06.01.2024 - 15:30

country flag Aubrey wrote:

Is the gauge for this pattern measured using the 3.5 MM needles or the 4.5 MM needles?

03.01.2024 - 20:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Aubrey, The knitting guage is measured with 4.5 mm needles. Happy knitting!

04.01.2024 - 07:43

country flag נעמי מזרחי wrote:

Hello How many stitches should remain on each shoulder after decreasing on both sides (size XL)?

27.12.2023 - 02:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hello נעמי מזרחי ! Size XL is the 4th number. 16 stitches are left on each shoulder. Happy knitting!

27.12.2023 - 20:28

country flag Ulrike Nagels wrote:

Hallo, was bedeutet Garngruppe B. Viele Grüße Ulli

08.12.2023 - 18:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Nagels, unsere Garne werden in Garngruppe je nach Garnstärke und Maschenprobe aufgeteilt, hier finden Sie alle unsere Garne der Garngruppe B. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.12.2023 - 07:14

country flag Vicki Guy wrote:

When decreasing for the V neck and the armhole, I need some clarification. I am working a large size. Instructions state to decrease inside 2 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch on each side 14 times. At the same time, start to decrease for the V neck (after piece is 13 3/8"0. This is done a total of 19 times. Am I still decreasing at the armhole edge until I get to 14 times and then just decrease at the V neck edge? Thank you for your help.

02.12.2023 - 21:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vicki, when it mentions at the same time it means that you will be working both types of decreases simultaneously. If you still haven't finished decreasing for the armholes when you start decreasing for the V neck then you will be decreasing both for the V-neck and the armholes on the same rows. Then, when you finish off the 14 times of the armhole decreases, you will continue with only the V-neck decreases. Happy knitting!

03.12.2023 - 23:19

country flag Lili wrote:

Hello! Please explain, wen casting on 118 stitches for size S, are 4 edge stiches included or must be added so I get 122 stiches? And when decreasing 24 stiches I get 98 stitches ( including one edge sich on each side) and not 94. Thanks!

19.10.2023 - 21:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lili, the 2 edge stitches on each side are included in the 118 sts, so that you will not have to cast on extra stitches. When decreasing 24 sts from the 118 sts, you should have 118-24=94 sts left. Happy knitting!

20.10.2023 - 08:35

country flag Catherine Wilkinson wrote:

Hello, can you please advise on the correct size for a 36 inch bust size? I can't quite tell if it should be a small or medium, Many thanks, Katie

11.09.2023 - 12:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Wilkinson, the best way to find the matching size is to measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare these measurements to the chart. Measurements are in cm - convert into inches here; read more about the chart here. Happy knitting!

11.09.2023 - 13:57

country flag Klaudia wrote:

Czy dobrze rozumiem, że jak skończę ściągacz na dole to od razu zamykam 28 oczek (rozmiar M)? Dlaczego?

06.09.2023 - 16:54

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Klaudio, ściągacz jak sama nazwa wskazuje ściągnie robótkę. Jeśli dalsza część kamizelki ma mieć taką samą szerokość jak ściągacz to trzeba zamknąć trochę oczek. Pozdrawiamy!

06.09.2023 - 19:37

country flag Willy Doums wrote:

In patroon 220-43 wordt gesproken over minderen aan de BINNENKANT van 2 steken. Wat wordt er bedoeld met aan de binnenkant?

13.02.2023 - 12:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Willy,

Je mindert steeds naast de 2 laatste of 2 eerste steken op de naald. De laatste of eerste 2 steken blijf je in tricotsteek breien.

19.02.2023 - 18:44