Crisp Air by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with cables for men in DROPS Nepal. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 219-12
DROPS design: Pattern ne-327
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
700-800-850-950-1050-1150 g colour no 8907, fog

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm : Length 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch/pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for rib/garter stitch.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.40 £ /50g
Laughing Hens
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.50 £ /50g
Laughing Hens
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 90 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 24) = 3.75. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 114 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 24) = 4.75. In this example work approx. every 4th and 5th stitch together.
DECREASE TIP-2:
Decrease 1 purl stitch by purling 2 together from the right side (decrease over purl sections). 

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.10.
Diagram A.2 and A.8 only applies to sizes XXL and XXXL.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
All increases are done from right side.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT:
Worked back and forth on circular needle in parts and sewn together when finished. Work sleeves back and forth on needle. Work neck edge in the round.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 102-110-118-130-142-154 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with Nepal.
Work back and forth as follows – first row is from right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, * knit 2 and purl 2 *, work from *-* until 1 stitch remains, and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work rib like this until piece measures 8 cm.
Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work in stocking stitch with 1 stitch in garter stitch in each side - on first row decrease 24-24-26-30-32-34 stitches evenly – read DECREASE TIP = 78-86-92-100-110-120 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of piece until piece measures 16 cm - adjust after row from wrong side, switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work 2 ridges– on last row in last ridge increase 24-22-22-26-34-30 stitch evenly - read INCREASE TIP= 102-108-114-126-144-150 stitches.

SIZE S-M-L-XL:
Switch back to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Continue to work pattern from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 3 stitches) 1-2-3-5 times in total, A.3 (= 26 stitches), A.4 (= 5 stitches), A.5 (= 30 stitches), A.6 (= 5 stitches), A.7 (= 26 stitches), A.9 (= 3 stitches) 1-2-3-5 times in total, 1 stitch in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

SIZE XXL-XXXL
Switch back to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Continue to work pattern from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 3 stitches) 5-6 times in total, A.2 (= 4 stitches), A.4 (= 5 stitches), A.3 (= 26 stitches), A.4 (= 5 stitches), A.5 (= 30 stitches), A.6 (= 5 stitches), A.7 (= 26 stitches), A.6 (= 5 stitches), A.8 (= 4 stitches), A.9 (= 3 stitches) 5-6 times in total, 1 stitch in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

ALL SIZES:
Continue this pattern and repeat diagrams vertically. When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm, increase 1 stitch in each side, increase inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Increase every 2 cm 6 times in total = 114-120-126-138-156-162 stitches. Work the increased stitches in A.1/A.9. When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm, cast off 3-3-3-3-3-3 stitches for armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 108-114-120-132-150-156 stitches.
Continue the pattern as before with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of piece.
When piece measures 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm, decrease 4 purl stitches evenly over the middle 22 stitches - read DECREASE TIP-2= 104-110-116-128-146-152 stitches. On next row from right side, cast off the middle 20-20-22-22-24-24 stitches for neck, and finish each shoulder separately = 42-45-47-53-61-64 stitches. Then cast off 1 stitch on next row from neck = 41-44-46-52-60-63 stitches for shoulder. Continue until piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm, adjust to finish after a row from wrong side. Then work 1 ridge while decreasing 4 stitches evenly on first row in ridge = 37-40-42-48-56-59 stitches. Knit 1 row from right side, cast off by knitting from wrong side - make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge! Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work the same way as back piece. When piece measures 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm, work next row as follows from the right side: Work the first 47-50-52-58-67-70 stitches as before, work the next 14-14-16-16-16-16 stitches – at the same time decrease 4 purl stitches evenly over these stitches - then slip these stitches on a stitch holder for neck (= 10-10-12-12-12-12 stitches on stitch holder), work the remaining 47-50-52-58-67-70 stitches as before. Now work each shoulder separately.
Continue to cast off for neck at beginning of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 2 times, and 1 stitch 2-2-2-2-3-3 times = 41-44-46-52-60-63 stitches. Continue until piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm, adjust to finish after a row from wrong side. Then work 1 ridge while decreasing 4 stitches evenly on first row in ridge = 37-40-42-48-56-59 stitches. Knit 1 row from right side, cast off by knitting from wrong side. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 38-38-42-42-46-46 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 5 mm with Nepal. Work back and forth as follows – first row is from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2 and purl 2 *, work from *-* until 1 stitch remains, and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work rib like this until piece measures 7 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Purl 1 row from wrong side while increasing 4-6-4-4-2-4 stitches evenly = 42-44-46-46-48-50 stitches. Work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 2-3-4-4-5-6 stitches in stocking stitch, A.4 (= 5 stitches), A.10 (= 26 stitches), A.6 (= 5 stitches), 2-3-4-4-5-6 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When A.10 has been worked vertically, there are 46-48-50-50-52-54 stitches on needle. Then work A.5 (= 30 stitches) over A.10, continue the remaining stitches as before. Repeat A.5 vertically. When piece measures 9-10-10-10-10-11 cm, increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in each side - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3½-3-3-2½-2½-2 cm 12-13-13-15-15-16 times in total = 70-74-76-80-82-86 stitches. When piece measures 52-51-50-49-47-46 cm, insert 1 marker in both sides of piece. Markers indicate where sleeve is sewn into armhole on jumper (marker = side seam on jumper). Continue to work until piece measures 53-52-51-50-48-47 cm. Then decrease 4 purl stitches evenly over A.5 from right side = 66-70-72-76-78-82 stitches. Cast off on next row from right side. Piece measures approx. 54-53-52-51-49-48 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams with grafting/kitchener stitches inside cast-off edge. Sew in sleeves, sew bottom of armhole (marker on sleeve should fit side seam on body). Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

NECK EDGE:
Work neck edge in the round. Use circular needle size 5 mm and begin from right side at one shoulder seam. Pick up 60-60-64-64-68-68 stitches (including stitches on stitch holder at the front). Work rib with knit 2 and purl 2 for 8 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Fold the neck outwards towards the right side. Fasten cast-off edge – Sew with neat little stitches from the wrong side of jumper (make sure to make the seam invisible on the right side and to avoid a tight seam).

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, purl 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over to make hole
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked
symbols = this square is not a stitch because stitch was decreased earlier, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 219-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Pascale wrote:

Ja, voor alle Nederlandse breisters: in de uitleg van het telpatroon, er staan fouten in. De derde steek van boven in de uitleg, moet de kabelnaald niet voor maar achter het werk liggen. Beide steken moeten dan rechts gebreid worden. De steken die daarna worden uitgelegd, daar dienen de woorden voor en achter omgewisseld te worden.

15.12.2023 - 23:58

country flag Pascale wrote:

Ja, ik begin links onder naar rechts. En de tweede regel van rechts naar links, etc.

06.11.2023 - 21:39

country flag Pascale wrote:

Toen ik het patroon met de aanwijzingen van de legenda ging breien kwamen sommige steken er verkeerd-om uit. Pas toen ik bewust de kabelnaald 'voor' veranderde in 'achter' (inclusief de daarop volgende handelingen) klopte het patroon. Het betreft de kabelsteken over 2 steken (steken nr. 4 en 5 in de legenda) Ik lees hier verder niets over terug, ben ik de enige die deze 'fout' ervaart?

05.11.2023 - 19:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Pascal,

Lees je het patroon, zoals het hoort, van beneden naar boven?

05.11.2023 - 19:44

country flag Mary wrote:

Thank you for your help.😊

14.01.2022 - 10:43

country flag Mary wrote:

Hi I would like to knit size for 42 inch chest. Could you please tell me which size to knit for a 42inch chest?

13.01.2022 - 13:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, you will find all finished measurements in the chart, measure a garment he like the shape and compare these measurements to those in the chart (in cm) - this is the most accurate way to find out the matching size. Read more here. Happy knitting!

13.01.2022 - 16:13

country flag Andrea wrote:

Wo kann ich die Maß-Skizze finden? Ich weiß nicht, welche Größe ich stricken soll!

14.11.2021 - 19:41

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, Maßskizze finden Sie ganz unten nach den Diagrammen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.11.2021 - 08:30

country flag Nadia Bannière Dacremont wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas le triangle sur 3 mailles dans les commentaires j'ai vu double croisement serait t'il possible d'avoir l'explication,de même le triangle a 4 mailles je ne trouve pas l'explication. Vous en remerciant par avance. Cordialement.

30.08.2021 - 12:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bannière Dacremont, il n'y a pas de triangle sur 4 mailles, il s'agit de 2 triangles sur 2 mailles côte à côte (= 5ème + 4ème symbole), quant au 9ème symbole, il s'agit d'une petite torsade qui se fait sur 3 mailles - cette vidéo montre comment procéder. En espérant que ceci puisse vous aider. Bon tricot!

30.08.2021 - 16:00

country flag Van Damme Catherine wrote:

Bonsoir Il existe une vue complète des points employés pour le modèle parce que ce n'est vraiment pas très pratique de devoir tourner les pages pour savoir ce que l'on doit faire. Merci d'avance de votre réponse. Bien à vous, Catherine Van Damme

06.07.2021 - 20:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Van Damme, il n'existe qu'une seule version de nos modèles, les diagrammes sont souvent séparés en groupes de motifs qui sont à tricoter différemment selon les tailles. Essayez de les imprimer sur des pages différentes pour les avoir bien devant vous, ce peut être plus simple. Bon tricot!

07.07.2021 - 07:31

country flag Lisa wrote:

How do I work “ back and forth on circular needle”? I assume I’d be knitting flat pieces that are later sewn together. Couldn’t I just use long straight single pointed needles

30.04.2021 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lisa, you can knit the pieces on straight needles, we only suggest curculard, because of teh number of stitches itmight be more comfortable to use them. Happy Knitting!

01.05.2021 - 00:24

country flag Silvia wrote:

Grazie mille , ho sbagliato tutto , il diagrama non e solo il diritto c’è anche il rovescio vero? va letto la prima riga da destra a sinistra e al seconda riga da sinistra a destra

07.02.2021 - 09:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Silvia, il maglione è lavorato in piano, per cui i diagrammi si leggono da destra a sinistra per il ferro di andata e da sinistra verso destra per quello di ritorno. Buon lavoro!

07.02.2021 - 23:00

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From the #dropsfan gallery

Crisp Air

Clare, United Kingdom