DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk |
3.90 € /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Igla i kukica website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Igla i kukica website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk 3.90 € /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Igla i kukica website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Igla i kukica website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Bente |
|
|
|
Jumper in stocking stitch and rib with 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 177-2 |
|
INCREASE TIP: Increase as follows mid under sleeve – start 1 stitch before the marker thread: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted knit to prevent holes. ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: The jumper is worked in the round with circular needle up to the armholes, then the back and front pieces are worked separately back and forth. BODY: Cast on 144-152-164-176-192-208 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm and 1 strand Alpaca, 1 strand off white Kid-Silk and 1 strand light steel blue Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). Knit 1 round, then work rib (knit 2/ purl 2). Work rib for 7 cm. Change to circular needle size 7 mm and work 1 round stocking stitch where you decrease 12-12-12-12-12-12 stitches evenly along the round = 132-140-152-164-180-196 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch. When the piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm work only across the first 66-70-76-82-90-98 stitches on the needle, the last 66-70-76-82-90-98 stitches are placed on a thread. FRONT PIECE: = 66-70-76-82-90-98 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch. When the piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm place the middle 32-32-34-34-36-36 stitches on a thread for the neck. Knit 1 row from the right side across the first 17-19-21-24-27-31 stitches (to the thread), turn, purl the first 2 stitches together and purl to end of the needle. Place the stitches on a thread. Knit 1 row from the right side across the last 17-19-21-24-27-31 stitches on the needle, turn and purl 1 row from the wrong side, at the end of the row purl the last 2 stitches together. Place all the stitches back on the needle and knit 1 row from the right side and knit up 2 stitches in each side (between the stitches for the neck and the stitches on the shoulder) towards the neck = 68-72-78-84-92-100 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side where you increase 6-6-4-6-6-6 stitches evenly along the row = 74-78-82-90-98-106 stitches. Change circular needle size 6 and work as follows – from the right side: knit 2 * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* the complete row. Work rib for 7 cm, the piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm, then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. BACK PIECE: Worked in the same way as the front piece. SLEEVE: The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Use a short circular needle when there are enough stitches. Cast on 32-32-36-36-40-40 stitches with double pointed needle size 6 mm and 1 strand Alpaca, 1 strand off white Kid-Silk and 1 strand light steel blue Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). Work 1 round stocking stitch, then work rib (knit 2/ purl 2). Work rib for 5 cm. Change to double pointed needle size 7 mm, work 1 round stocking stitch where you decrease 4-4-6-6-8-6 stitches evenly along the round = 28-28-30-30-32-34 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round = mid under sleeve. Work stocking stitch, when the piece measures 7 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – READ INCREASE TIP. Increase every 5½-4½-4½-4-4-4 cm in total 8-9-9-10-10-10 times = 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches. Cast off when the piece measures 48-47-46-45-43-41 cm. NOTE! shorter measurements in the larger sizes due to broader shoulder measurements. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams, leave approx. 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm for the neck. Sew in the sleeves. |
|
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11428 patterns - 11428 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (58)
Corina Avram wrote:
Thanks for the reply. Would short (40 cm) needles work instead of double-pointed for the sleeves?
29.03.2024 - 08:36DROPS Design answered:
Dear Corina, It CAN work, but how well depends on your perosnal knitting style and preference. Some people like really short needles, others not so much. If you have that size at hand, I suggest to go ahead and try. If you find it uncomfortable, you can always change it to a longer one. Happy Knitting!
30.03.2024 - 00:45Corina Avram wrote:
Hello. I can't find the double-pointed needles in sizes 7 and 6 mm. Could I knit the sleeves with straight needles? Thank you!
28.03.2024 - 22:08DROPS Design answered:
Dear Corina, the sleeves are on this sweater knitted on the round, if you cannot find double pointed needles, I would suggest to use 60 cm long circular needles. With straight needles, you will have to knit the sleeves back and forth, open at the seamline at the undersleeve and then sew it up. Happy Knitting!
29.03.2024 - 08:16Véro wrote:
Bonjour, Pour les augmentations des manches où doit-on se référer ? Merci d’avance pour votre réponse.
18.05.2022 - 15:12DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Véro, il manquait ce paragraphe au début des explications, merci pour votre retour, cela est fait maintenant: vous faites 1 jeté avant la dernière maille du tour+ 1 autre jeté après la 1ère maille du tour. Bon tricot!
18.05.2022 - 16:50Dori wrote:
Hola de nuevo!! Que significa recoger y trabajar 2 puntos a cada lado del escote? Es que hay que aumentar 4 puntos? Gracias.
23.02.2022 - 22:14DROPS Design answered:
Hola Dori, sí, se aumentan un total de 4 puntos en la fila para que no quede un agujero en la transición entre el escote y los puntos del hombro.
28.02.2022 - 16:51Dori wrote:
Hola,me gusta mucho este patron pero no se hacerlo con agujas circulares. Me podriais ayudar a hacerlo con agujas rectas? Gracias!
08.02.2022 - 00:10DROPS Design answered:
Hola Dori, puedes leer la siguiente lección para ajustar el patrón: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=13&cid=23
13.02.2022 - 19:25Laura wrote:
Potrei avere lo schema per utilizzare i Ferri tradizionali?
02.01.2022 - 17:28DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Laura, questo modello è stato progettato per essere lavorato in tondo, se preferisce lavorarlo in piano può aggiungere una maglia di vivagno a ogni lato per le cuciture. Buon lavoro!
02.01.2022 - 22:31Amanda wrote:
I have read the other questions in English on making the shoulders for the front & back pieces but remain confused. I understand what the instructions say in theory. First you say place the middle stitches on a thread, but do you knit the first 21 stitches then do that? Second, after you complete one shoulder how does the yarn get to the other side of the stitches held on a thread? Thanks in advance for your help!!!
13.08.2021 - 07:22DROPS Design answered:
Dear Amanda, you have to cut the yarn to work both shoulders separately, you can cut them after having worked the first shoulder to work the 2nd shoulder, then join again from RS - or you can then just keep the yarn from 1st shoulder and join new balls to work 2nd shoulder, cut the yarn at the end of 2nd shoulder then continue with working yarn from 1st shoulder (= from RS). Happy knitting!
13.08.2021 - 07:35Florine wrote:
Hi, I'm working on the body at the moment and I wonder if the pattern refers to the whole piece of body to measure 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm or only the stocking stitch part of the body before moving on to the front piece? Thanks!
29.03.2021 - 10:19DROPS Design answered:
Dear Florine, measure these 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm from cast on edge, ie including ribbing. Happy knitting!
06.04.2021 - 08:45Merel wrote:
Hallo, kan deze trui ook gebreid worden met Air en Kid Silk? Of word het dan te dik? Hoeveel gram zou ik nodig hebben van Air en Kid Silk voor een maat M? Alvast bedankt!
25.03.2021 - 10:51DROPS Design answered:
Dag Merel,
Dat zou wel kunnen, want je komt dan ongeveer op dezelfde stekenverhouding. Maak wel altijd een proeflapje! Om een inschatting te maken van hoeveel garen je nodig hebt in Air, zou je kunnen kijken naar de totale looplengte die je nodig hebt in Alpaca en dan reken je dat om naar de hoeveelheid in grammen voor Air.
26.03.2021 - 15:47Florine wrote:
Oh and how much of Sky and Brushed Alpaca Silk would I need?
25.03.2021 - 10:31DROPS Design answered:
Dear Florine, read more about alternatives and how to calculate new amount of yarn here. Happy knitting!
25.03.2021 - 11:22