Latvia

DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.20 € /50g

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Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Funny Phil

Knitted jumper with raglan and v-neck in DROPS Belle. Size children 2 - 10 years

DROPS Children 26-9
DROPS design: Pattern no vs-001-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
Size in cm: 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350 g colour no 07, zinc

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.20 € /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st on each side of the middle 12 sts in each side (i.e. K 1, P 1, K 1, P 2, K 2, P 2, K 1, P 1, K 1). Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Dec for raglan on each side of 5 sts rib in every transition between sleeves and body.
DEC AS FOLLOWS FROM RS:
Beg 2 sts before 5 sts rib, K 2 tog, work 5 sts rib, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
DEC AS FOLLOWS FROM WS:
Beg 2 sts before 5 sts rib, P 2 twisted tog, 5 sts rib, P 2 tog (= 2 sts dec).

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to V-neck):
Dec for V-neck inside 1 edge st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after 1 edge st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before 1 edge st: K 2 tog.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to neck edge):
Dec 2 sts as follows: Work until 1 st remains before K st mid front, slip 2 sts as if to K tog, K 1 and pass the 2 sts over.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 146-154-166-174-182 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with Belle. K 1 round. Insert 1 marker in each side = 73-77-83-87-91 sts between markers.
Work next round as follows: K 1, P 2, * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* 33-35-38-40-42 times in total (i.e. until 4 sts remain before marker, K 1, P 2, K 2 (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts), P 2, * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* 33-35-38-40-42 times in total and finish with K 1, P 2 and K 1. Continue rib like this for 4 cm.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm, work next round as follows: K 1, P 2, K 1, P 1, work in stocking st until 5 sts remain before marker AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-10-12-12-12 sts evenly over these sts, P 1, K 1, P 2, K 2 (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts), P 2, K 1, P 1, work in stocking st until 5 sts remain before marker in the other side AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-10-12-12-12 sts evenly over these sts and finish with P 1, K 1, P 2 and K 1 = 126-134-142-150-158 sts on needle. Continue like this in stocking st with 10 sts rib in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
When piece measures 8-8-10-10-12 cm, inc 1 st on each side of rib-section in each side – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc when piece measures 16-16-20-20-24 cm = 134-142-150-158-166 sts. When piece measures 22-25-28-31-34 cm, cast off 6 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. 3 sts on each side of both markers) = 61-65-69-73-77 sts remain on front and back piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 50-50-52-52-54 sts on double pointed needle size 3 mm with Belle. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 1/P 1 for 4 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12 sts evenly on 1st round = 38-38-40-40-42 sts. When piece measures 6-7-7-8-10 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 2-2-2½-2-2 cm a total of 8-10-10-13-14 times = 54-58-60-66-70 sts. When piece measures 23-28-33-36-40 cm, cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve = 48-52-54-60-64 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off (without working them first) = 218-234-246-266-282 sts on needle. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:

PATTERN: Beg at a raglan line on back piece and work in stocking st in the round but in every transition between body and sleeves work 5 sts rib as follows: P 1, K 1, P 1, K 1 and P 1 (i.e. 2 sts rib on body and 3 sts rib on sleeve).

RAGLAN: AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec for raglan every other round/row a total of 15-16-16-17-18 times and then every round/row a total of 4-5-6-6-7 times.
V-NECK: When piece measures 27-31-34-37-41 cm, slip the middle st mid front on 1 stitch holder for V-neck. Then work back and forth on circular needle from mid front while AT THE SAME TIME dec for V-neck in each side towards mid front as follows - READ DECREASE TIP 1: Dec every other row (i.e. on every row from RS) until piece measures approx. 34-38-41-45-49 cm up to neck on back piece and all sts are dec.
After all dec for raglan and V-neck, approx. 45-45-49-59-59 sts remain on needle and piece measures approx. 36-40-44-48-52 cm up to shoulder.Adjust to end with a WS row.

NECK EDGE:
1st row= RS. Change to circular needle 3 mm and K all sts on needle. Knit up sts inside 1 edge st along the neck line, knit st from the thread, pick up sts inside 1 edge st along the other neckline and K to mid back. Join work and K 1 round while inc evenly to 76-80-86-92-92 sts. Then work rib in the round = K 1/P 1 - NOTE: St on stitch holder mid front is worked K, adjust rib accordingly.
AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd round, dec 2 sts mid front - READ DECREASE TIP 2. Repeat dec every round until neck edge measures 3 cm, then cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew seam under sleeve.

Diagram

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

Linda wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei delucidazioni su come fare lo scollo a V sul modello 26-9, in quanto la spiegazione del modello dice di lavorare avanti e indietro sui ferri circolari dal centro davanti. Ma come faccio a farlo con i ferri circolari? e le maglie di vivagno x diminuire dove le trovo? Grazie. Attendo cortese risposta. Linda

23.03.2018 - 11:39

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Linda. Per lo scollo, continua a lavorare sui ferri circolari, in ferri di andata e ritorno, come fossero ferri dritti. Le maglie vivagno sono la prima e l'ultima maglia sui ferri. Buon lavoro!

23.03.2018 - 12:51

Scarlett Goeman wrote:

Bonjour et merci pour vos modèles, je ne comprends pas quand je vais remettre les manches sur l'ouvrage en attente, il y aura le trou laissé par les mailles que l'on a rabattues tant sur l'ouvrage que sur les manches, j'ai relu et je ne trouve pas, il faudra coudre aussi ce trou en finition? Merci

26.06.2017 - 11:20

Bonjour Mme Goeman, tout à fait, on assemblera les mailles rabattues pour les emmanchures à celles rabattues au début de la manche, comme on le voit dans la vidéo ci-dessous. Bon tricot!

26.06.2017 - 13:14

Lenoir wrote:

Il y a des marqueurs de chaque côté des cotes sur les côtés du pull De chaque côté des marqueurs il y a 10 mailles A quel endroit dois je diminuer les 6 mailles de l' emmanchure Merci je suis un peu perdue

26.05.2017 - 21:39

Bonjour Mme Lenoir, vous rabattez les 3 mailles après le 1er marqueur, tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 3 m avant le 2ème marqueur, rabattez les 6 m suivantes (= 3 m avant + 3 m après le marqueur), continuez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 3 m et rabattez les 3 dernières mailles. Bon tricot!

29.05.2017 - 08:56

AIRI P-M wrote:

En ymmärrä ohjeesta kohtaa: Vaihda pyöröpuikkoon nro 4 ja neulo seuraava krs näin: 1 o, 2 n, 1 o, 1 n, neulo sileää neuletta kunnes jäljellä on 5 s ennen merkkilankaa, ja kavenna SAMALLA näiden silmukoiden kohdalla tasavälein 10-10-12-12-12 s, Tehdäänkö kavennukset 1, rivillä merkkilankojen välillä tasavälein? Vai mitä tuo tarkoittaa??

04.12.2016 - 20:28

Hei! Kavennukset tehdään ensimmäisellä kerroksella sileän neuleen kohdalla. Eli joustinneuleen kohdalla ei kavenneta.

05.12.2016 - 14:00

Lisa wrote:

Det här mönstret funkar inte i storlek 92. Jag gjorde exakt som det stod (tog hjälp av kunniga väninnor så jag vet att jag gjorde rätt) men halsöppningen blev då alldeles för liten, inte en chans att få på den på min tvååring. Jag repade upp och började denna gång maska av för v-ringen flera cm tidigare, men det funkade inte då heller. Så jag är mycket besviken på detta mönster!

03.12.2016 - 15:59

Hej Lisa. Saa maalene paa din tröje stemmer ikke overens med maalene nederst i maalskitsen? Og din strikkefasthed var korrekt?

22.12.2016 - 14:38

Bernard GUILLON wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai téléchargé les explications de ce petit pull simple à tricoter, mais j'ai été surpris de ne pas y voir les côtes (d'après l'image des côtes 1/1). les explication commence directement sur le jersey. j'ai lu dans les questions que quelqu'un avait fait 4 cm de côtes, est-ce bien ça? mais ça me semble beaucoup en comparaison de l'image? merci d'avance

08.04.2016 - 22:08

Bonjour Monsieur Guillon, on commence par tricoter 1 tour endroit, puis on continue en côtes ainsi pendant 4 cm: 1 m end, 2 m env, *1 m end, 1 m env*, répéter de *-* 33-35-38-40-42 fois au total (c'est-à-dire jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 4 m avant le marqueur, 1 m end, 2 m env, 2 m end (le marqueur se trouve entre ces 2 m), 2 m env, *1 m end, 1 m env*, répéter de *-* 33-35-38-40-42 fois au total et terminer par 1 m end, 2 m env et 1 m end. Bon tricot!

11.04.2016 - 12:13

Bente Nielsen wrote:

Vedr. halsudskæring kan jeg ikke få maskeantallet til at passe.

22.03.2016 - 15:29

Bernardi wrote:

Bonjour, je tricote les manches. Je voudrais savoir comment faire pour augmenter les 2 mailles sous les manches. En jeté, 2 fois de suite ? merci de me répondre

15.03.2016 - 09:49

Bonjour Mme Bernardi, évitez 2 jetés côte à côte, vous pourriez avoir un trou, vous pouvez augmenter avec 1 jeté de chaque côté du marqueur, mais tricotez 1 ou 2 m entre les 2 jetés au milieu sous la manche pour éviter un trou - ou bien vous pouvez également utiliser une autre technique pour augmenter - par ex celle-ci. Bon tricot!

15.03.2016 - 10:04

Sandra wrote:

My stockinette stitch doesn't seem right. It doesn't look like neat v stacking, but instead rows of slanted (\) stitch and rows of blurred rib. What should I do to correct this? Thank you. (It looks more pronounced when I work in slightly elastic yarn like when working in this jumper than when I work with non elastic cotton yarn).

27.01.2016 - 09:13

Dear Sandra, you will find under tab "videos" different videos showing how to work stocking st, the K and P sts, make sure you are always working the front loop of sts as shown in the video. Happy knitting!

27.01.2016 - 10:36

Odile wrote:

Après avoir fait les 4cm de côtes du dos-devant, je ne comprends pas ce que veut dire: avant le marqueur en même temps, répartir les diminutions au dessus de ces mailles. Merci de bien vouloir m'expliquer.

10.11.2015 - 23:23

Bonjour Odile, après les 4 cm de côtes, tricotez ainsi: 1 m end, 2 m env, 1 m end, 1 m env, puis *tricotez en jersey les mailles suivantes jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 5 m avant le marqueur, mais répartissez en même temps 10-12 diminutions (cf taille)*, tricotez ensuite les 10 m suiv ainsi: 1 m env, 1 m end, 2 m env, 1 m end, marqueur, 1 m end, 2 m env, 1 m end, 1 m env, répétez de *-* encore 1 fois et terminez par 1 m env, 1 m end, 2 m env et 1 m end: vous avez diminué 20-24 m au total (10-12 m sur le dos et autant sur le devant) et avez 10 m en côtes sur les côtés du pull. Bon tricot!

11.11.2015 - 09:20