Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Saules siulas website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Saules siulas website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= light grey | |
= green | |
= off white | |
= petrol | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts in base colour in pattern stripe, on next row work YO twisted to avoid hole |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Wild Blueberries |
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Set of knitted overall worked top down with Nordic pattern and round yoke, plus hat with ear flaps and pompom in DROPS Karisma. Size children 1 - 6 years
DROPS Children 27-1 |
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SUIT: GARTER ST (back and forth): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K. PATTERN: See diagram A.1 - NOTE: Choose diagram for correct size. Work entire pattern in stocking st. KNITTING TIP (applies to bands): On the rows where there are either stripes or pattern border work the colour in the stripes or the base colour of pattern border also over the 5 band sts in each side but do yarn change between band and body (to avoid fastening the yarn on band). DECREASE/INCREASE TIP: To calculate how often dec/inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 84 sts), minus bands (e.g. 10 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of dec/inc to be done (e.g. 7) = 10.6. I.e. In this example dec by working alternately approx. every 9th and 10th st and 10th and 11th st tog or inc after alternately approx. every 10th and 11th st by making 1 YO (work YO twisted on next row to avoid hole – NOTE: Do not inc/dec over bands). INCREASE TIP-1: Inc 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Beg 2 sts before marker and make 1 YO, work 4 sts (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next row work YOs twisted to avoid holes. DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to mid under sleeve and on inside of leg): Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec). BUTTONHOLES: Dec for buttonhole on right band (when garment is worn). 1 button hole = beg from WS and K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO. On next row K the YO to make a hole. Dec for first buttonhole after 1½-2 cm on neck edge, then dec the next 5-5-6-6 buttonholes every 7½-8-7½-8 cm. ---------------------------------------------------------- SUIT: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. To make it easier to adjust the length of sleeves and legs the suit is worked top down. YOKE: Cast on 84-88-92-96 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on a short circular needle size 3 mm with petrol. P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain on needle, finish with K 2 and 5 bands sts in garter st. Continue rib like this for 3 cm – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see explanation above and finish after 1 row from RS (= neck edge). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. P 1 row from WS while dec 7-5-4-1 sts evenly - READ DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 77-83-88-95 sts on needle. Then work an elevation at the back in stocking st as follows: K until 12-13-14-15 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and P until 12-13-14-15 sts remain in the other side. Turn, tighten yarn and K until 20-22-24-26 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and P until 20-22-24-26 sts remain in the other side. Turn, tighten yarn and K until 28-31-34-37 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and P until 28-31-34-37 sts remain in the other side. Turn, tighten yarn and K the rest of row, then P 1 row from WS (work bands in garter st). Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.1 until 6 sts remain on row - NOTE: Choose diagram for correct size (= 11-12-11-12 repetitions of 6-6-7-7 sts), work first st in A.1 (so that pattern beg and ends the same way inside band in each - NOTE: Do not inc in this st) and finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this and inc as shown in diagram - READ KNITTING TIP AND REMEMBER KNITTING TENSION. When A.1 has been worked = 187-203-220-239 sts on needle. Work 0-1-0-1 cm with green. Piece now measures approx. 13-14-15-16 cm mid front (measured without rib in the neck). Now work piece in stocking st with green. On first row from RS inc now 7-7-10-7 sts evenly (do not inc over bands) = 194-210-230-246 sts. Work next row as follows from WS: Work 29-31-34-36 sts as before, slip the next 42-46-50-54 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 6 new sts on row, work 52-56-62-66 sts (= back piece), slip the next 42-46-50-54 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 6 new sts on row and work 29-31-34-36 sts as before. BODY: = 122-130-142-150 sts. Insert 1 marker 32-34-37-39 sts in from each side (= 58-62-68-72 sts between markers on back piece). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Then continue back and forth in stocking st and 5 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front - remember BUTTONHOLES on band. When piece measures 10-10-12-12 cm, inc on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP 1 (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc when piece measures 20-20-24-24 cm = 130-138-150-158 sts. When piece measures 29-31-35-38 cm from armhole, end bands mid front. Cast off the first 3 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows = 124-132-144-152 sts. Then work in stocking st in the round over all sts for approx. 3 cm – piece now measures 32-34-38-41 cm from armhole and 45-48-53-57 cm from mid front (measured without rib in neck). Now divide for legs. LEG: Beg mid front, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work in stocking st in the round over the first 62-66-72-76 sts (keep the remaining 62-66-72-76 sts on circular needle). Insert 1 marker at beg of round = inside of leg. When leg measures 2 cm from dividing for legs, dec 2 sts on inside of leg - READ DECREASE TIP-1 (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec every 3rd-4th-6th-7th round a total of 10-10-11-11 times = 42-46-50-54 sts. When leg measures 13-18-25-31 cm, inc 10 sts evenly = 52-56-60-64 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round = K 2/P 2 for 8-8-10-10 cm (or desired length). On next round, inc all 2 P sts to 3 P sts = 65-70-75-80 sts. Then cast off sts with K over K and P over P. Slip sts from circular needle on double pointed needles size 4 mm and work the other leg the same way. Entire suit now measures approx. 66-74-88-98 cm mid front (measured without rib in the neck). SLEEVE: Slip sts from one stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm, pick up 1 st in each of the 6 sts cast on under sleeve = 48-52-56-60 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6 sts (= mid under sleeve). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in stocking st in the round with green. When sleeve measures 2-2-1-1 cm, dec 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP-1. Repeat dec every 3rd-3rd-4th-4th round a total of 7-9-10-12 times = 34-34-36-36 sts. When sleeve measures 10-12-15-18 cm, inc 6-6-8-8 sts evenly = 40-40-44-44 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round = K 2/P 2 for 8-8-10-10 cm (or desired length). On next round, inc all 2 P sts to 3 P sts = 50-50-55-55 sts. Then cast off sts with K over K and P over P. Work the other sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Place right band over left band and fasten at the bottom with small stitches. Sew the buttons on to the left band. ---------------------------------------------------------- HAT: PATTERN: See diagram A.2. Work entire pattern in stocking st. DECREASE TIP-1: Dec 1 st after every marker as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 1 st dec). DECREASE TIP-2: Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 tog, marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec). TUBE TIE: Slip the 4 sts tog on 1 double pointed needle size 3 mm. K 1 row, * move all sts to the right side of needle without turning piece, tighten yarn and K over all sts *, repeat from *-* until desired length. ---------------------------------------------------------- HAT: Worked in the round on circular needle from the bottom up, switch to double pointed needles when needed. Cast on 96-112 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with petrol. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3 cm. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and K 1 round while at the same time dec 12-16 sts evenly = 84-96 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.2 (= 7-8 repetitions of 12 sts). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.2 has been worked, piece measures approx. 14 cm. Work with green until piece measures 15-17 cm. Now insert 6 markers in piece with 14-16 sts between every marker. On next round dec 1 st after every marker - SEE DECREASE TIP 1 (= 6 sts dec). Dec like this every other round a total of 5 times and then every round 3 times in total = 36-48 sts. On next round K all sts tog 2 by 2, K 1 round and K all sts tog 2 by 2 again = 9-12 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Hat measures approx. 20-22 cm. EAR FLAP: Cast on 40-44 sts with petrol and distribute sts on 2 double pointed needles size 3 mm = 20-22 sts on each needle. Work in stocking st in the round on these 2 needles - NOTE: Tighten yarn in every transition between the 2 needles when working. When ear flap measures 5-6 cm, insert 1 marker in each side. On next round dec 2 sts in each side - SEE DECREASE TIP 2. Dec like this every other round a total of 5-5 times and then every round 4-5 times in total = 4 sts remain on needle. Work TUBE TIE – see explanation above – over the remaining sts until tie measures approx. 20-25 cm. Cut the yarn and pull it through sts, tighten tog and fasten. Knit another ear flap the same way. ASSEMBLY: Place ear flaps approx. 3 cm in under rib on hat and fasten on WS - NOTE: There should be approx. 13-15 cm between ear flaps at the front (= approx. 7-9 cm between ear flaps at the back). Make a pompom with green, 4-5 cm in diameter and fasten pompom at the top of hat. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (98)
Christiane wrote:
Ich habe eine Frage zu den Zunahmen im Musterabschnitt A.1. Bei den Tipps zum Zunehmen der Maschen steht, daß man nicht bei den Blenden zunehmen soll. Wenn ich aber den Umschlag am Anfang oder Ende des Rapports weglasse, weil dann die Blende kommt, fehlt diese Masche ja im weiteren Verlauf. Oder soll die dann früher eingearbeitet werden? Oder bezieht sich der Tipp nur auf die Ab-/Zunahmen, die nicht im Musterabschnitt erfolgen?
11.02.2019 - 20:32DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Christiane, ABNAHME-/ZUNAHMETIPP gilt für die Ab- sowie Zunahmen, die regelmäßig verteilt gestrickt werden (z.B. nach dem Bündchen und vor der Erhöhung am Hals). Bei A.1 stricken Sie die Zunahmen, wie sie im Diagram erscheinen (mit 1 Umschlag, der verschränkt gestrickt wird). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
12.02.2019 - 08:45Janine wrote:
Aansluitend op mijn vorige vraag: ik brei dit patroon met deze kleuren in het rond (naar patroon Winterberries), vandaar dat ik telkens middenachter van pattoon/kleur wissel.
18.01.2019 - 09:36Janine wrote:
Ik ben nu bezig met de pas en in de12e naald van het patroon A1. Ik ben ontevreden over middenachter. Het patroon sluit daar niet mooi aan. Ik lees daar niets over in de beschrijving. Kunt u mij helpen?
18.01.2019 - 09:24DROPS Design answered:
Dag Janine,
Helaas kun je altijd een beetje en verspring zien als je een scandinavisch patroon in de rondte breit.
23.01.2019 - 11:06Anne Grete Jagland wrote:
Oppskrift 27-1 children har feil type garn i forhold til mengde og farge oppgitt. Har dermed blitt helt feil.
08.11.2018 - 13:56DROPS Design answered:
Hej Anne Grete, hvis du skriver til os hvad som er fejl, så skal vi se på det så hurtigt som muligt :)
09.11.2018 - 12:48Christine wrote:
Wie kann ich diese Anleitung auf Größe 134 umändern?? Viele Grüße Christine
30.10.2018 - 14:45DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Christine, leider können wir nicht jeder Anleitung nach jeden Anfrage anpassen. Nehmen Sie bitte Kontakt mit Ihrem DROPS Laden auf - auch telefonisch oder per Email. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
30.10.2018 - 16:02Ane wrote:
Strikker st. 3/4 og kan ikke få det til at passe. Jeg har regnet ud hvor mange masker der skal være efter hver udtagning og ende med 220 m. hvilket er korrekt. Mener det begynder at gå galt efter p. 13, herefter har jeg skiftevis for mange eller for lidt masker, det er meget frustrerende. Masker ved start 88, efter1. Udtagning 99 m derefter 2. Udt.= 121m derefter 132m-143m-154m (her starter problemerne) -165m-176m-187m-198m=209m-220m slut.
29.10.2018 - 20:40Marit wrote:
Går det an å få litt hjelp angående begynnelsen på mønsteret
22.10.2018 - 16:41DROPS Design answered:
Hei Marit. Klart du kan. Jeg antar det er dressen du strikker? Etter at det er strikket forhøyning skal du strikke etter A.1 (velg diagram etter størrelse). Diagrammet leses som vanlig: fra nederst til øverst, fra høyre mot venstre. Første omgangen begynner hver rapport med 1 kast - NB ikke den siste "rapporten" av A.1, rett før stolpen, der du kun strikker 1. masken i A.1. Etter første omgang har du økt 1 maske på begynnelsen av hver hele rapport av A.1 = 11-12-11-11 masker økt på omgangen. Er det noe spesifikt du lurer på angående begynnelsen av mønstert? God fornøyelse.
23.10.2018 - 09:16Carielle Wilhelmsen wrote:
Er det mye vanskelig å strikke denne nedenfra og opp? Syns det er vanskelig med ovenfra og ned...
31.03.2018 - 15:41DROPS Design answered:
Hej Carielle, ja den er lettere at strikke ovenfra og ned. Begynd med at markere tallene i din størrelse så bliver det lettere at følge rad efter rad. God fornøjelse!
04.04.2018 - 13:44DROPS DESIGN wrote:
Hej igen Mary For å finne maskeantallet ditt før stjernen starter i størrelse 5/6 år teller du antall masker i A.1 på raden før stjernen (dvs 14 masker i 5/6 år) og ganger med antall rapporter (12 rapporter i størrelse 5/6 år) + 1 ekstra maske før stolpen (slik at mønsteret starter og slutter likt innenfor stolpen i hver side) + 10 stolpemasker = 179 masker. God fornøyelse!
26.02.2018 - 13:12Mary Evensen wrote:
Plages med økinga 😯er det hver 7 maske ,som skal økes ,og neste omg 8 maske ?? får det ikke til og stemme på hver side . hvor mange m skal det være før begynner med stjernene på 5/6år ? trur jeg gir opp ,😐
02.02.2018 - 13:41DROPS Design answered:
Hei Mary. På første pinne øker du ved å lage 1 kast om pinnen på begynnelsen av hver rapport med A.1, dvs strikk 5 stolpemasker i rille, * lag 1 kast om pinnen, strikk 7 masker rett med petrol *, strikk fra *-* til det gjenstår 6 masker på pinnen, strikk 1 maske rett med petrol og avslutt med 5 stolpemasker i rille = 107 masker i 5/6 år. På tredje pinne øker du på samme måte slik diagrammet viser, dvs strikk 5 stolpemasker i rille, * strikk 8 masker mønster, lag 1 kast om pinnen *, strikk fra *-* til det gjenstår 6 masker på pinnen, strikk 1 maske rett med naturhvit og avslutt med 5 stolpemasker i rille
26.02.2018 - 13:10