Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side | |
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes. | |
= place 5 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle | |
= place 6 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 6, knit 6 from cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Isak |
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Knitted children’s jumper with cables in DROPS Air or DROPS Paris. Sizes 2 - 12 years.
DROPS Children 30-13 |
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INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN: DECREASE TIP: To work out how to decrease evenly, count the number of stitches to be decreased over (e.g. 25 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 5) = 5. In this example, knit every 4th and 5th stitch together. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. INCREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve): Start 1 stitch after the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work until there is 1 stitch left on the round, make 1 yarn over and knit 1 (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes. ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: The piece is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the armholes, then the front and back pieces are continued separately, back and forth on the needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles. BODY: Cast on 120-128-136-144-152-160 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 4 cm. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= in the side). The next round is worked as follows: Knit the first 21-23-25-25-27-29 stitches and, at the same time, decrease 4 stitches evenly over these stitches – read DECREASE TIP, work A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 19-19-19-23-23-23 stitches increased to 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches on the first round), knit 21-23-25-25-27-29 stitches and, at the same time, decrease 4 stitches evenly over these stitches, insert 1 marker thread (= in the side), knit the next 59-63-67-71-75-79 stitches and decrease 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches evenly over these stitches. There are now 54-58-62-66-70-74 stitches between the marker threads on the front piece and 50-54-58-60-64-68 stitches on the back piece = a total of 104-112-120-126-134-142 stitches on the needle. The next round is worked as follows: 17-19-21-21-23-25 stitches stocking stitch, continue A.1 (= 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches) and work stocking stitch to end of round. Continue the pattern in this way. When A.1 has been completed, work A.2 over these 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches. Repeat A.2 upwards. When the piece measures 23-26-29-32-35-38 cm cast off 6 stitches in each side for the armhole (cast off 3 stitches on each side of both marker threads). The front and back pieces are now finished separately. BACK PIECE: = 44-48-52-54-58-62 stitches. Work stocking stitch back and forth and cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time in each side and then 1 stitch 1-1-2-1-1-2 times in each side = 38-42-44-48-52-54 stitches. When the piece measures 34-38-42-46-50-54 cm cast off the middle 16-18-20-22-22-24 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by casting off 1 stitch on next row from the neck = 10-11-11-12-14-14 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 36-40-44-48-52-56 cm and cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way. FRONT PIECE: = 48-52-56-60-64-68 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and A.2 and cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time in each side and then 1 stitch 1-1-2-1-1-2 times in each side = 42-46-48-54-58-60 stitches. Continue working stocking stitch and A.2 until the piece measures 31-34-38-41-45-48 cm. On the next row knit together the 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches over the cable mid front, 2 and 2 (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 stitches decreased). On the next row, place the middle 9-11-13-14-14-16 stitches on 1 thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue to cast off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and then 1 stitch 2-2-2-3-3-3 times = 10-11-11-12-14-14 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 36-40-44-48-52-56 cm and cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way. SLEEVE: Cast on 32-32-34-34-36-36 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 4 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under the sleeve). Knit 1 round where you decrease 4 stitches evenly on round in all sizes – read DECREASE TIP = 28-28-30-30-32-32 stitches. Continue to work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 6 cm increase 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 3-3-4-3½-4½-3½ cm a total of 6-7-7-8-8-10 times = 40-42-44-46-48-52 stitches. When the piece measures 24-28-32-35-39-42 cm cast off 6 stitches mid under the sleeve (cast off 3 stitches on each side of the marker thread). Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work the sleeve cap back and forth in stocking stitch at the same time as you cast off at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1-2-2-2-2-3 times in each side and then 1 stitch 1 time in each side. Continue by casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of each row in each side until the piece measures 29-34-38-42-46-50 cm. Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows and then cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 30-35-39-43-47-51 cm from the top down. Work another sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves. NECKLINE: Start mid back of neck and knit up from the right side approx. 40 to 62 stitches around the neck (including the stitches on the thread in front) with short circular needle size 4.5 mm. Knit 1 round where you increase evenly to 54-64-66-70-70-76 stitches. Continue by working rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 3 cm. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (24)
Megan wrote:
Hi, Is this a pattern that works from bottom up? And under the section Body, I don't understand what "work A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 19-19-19-23-23-23 stitches increased to 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches on the first round) refers to." My understanding is this is the first round. Do you increase the extra stitch using the M1 technique? Or you simply work A.1 on 20 stitches instead of 19? Thank you.
30.07.2024 - 08:52DROPS Design answered:
Dear Megan, the pattern is worked from bottom up, read diagram also from bottom up, and on the first row in A.1 you will increase 1 stitch making 1 yarn over (see 3rd symbol under diagram text), so that you work 19 sts increasing 1 stitch to get 20 sts. Happy knitting!
31.07.2024 - 07:13Cecilia wrote:
Gentili buongiorno, Ho iniziato il vostro modello ISAK però quello che vedo dalla foto non sembrano coste 1:1 potete cortesemente confermarmi? Ringrazio 🙏
20.07.2024 - 16:42DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Cecilia, al momento non ci sono correzioni per il modello. Buon lavoro!
20.07.2024 - 22:31Darlene Cossarini wrote:
Thank you for your response to my first question. It worked. But now, I do not understand this instruction, "On the next row knit together the 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches over the cable mid front, 2 and 2 (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 stitches decreased). This is from the instructions for the front. Please explain. I have tried to figure it out on my own, but have no idea.
13.10.2022 - 07:59DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Cossarini, you need more stitches for the cable than for stocking stitch, so that you need to decrease the number of stitches in the cable to avoid the neck loosing its shape (become wider than expected), you have then to work K2 tog a total of 5 or 6 times accross the knitted stitches in the diagram to decrease 5 or 6 stitches. Happy knitting!
13.10.2022 - 09:33Darlene Cossarini wrote:
This is my first time knitting a sweater in the round. I have completed the main part of the body and do not quite understand how to do the dividing row between front and back. Is there a video I can watch or an explanation I can read. I love the pattern so far, and the sweater is turning out beautifully. thank you.
09.10.2022 - 07:09DROPS Design answered:
Dear Darlene, you should have a marker inserted in each side. Cast off 3 stitches on each side of each marker (6 in total for each armhole). For example, from the beginning on the row on one side, cast off 3 stitches, work according to the pattern until 3 stitches remain before the next marker, cast off the next 6 stitches (the marker should be in the middle of these stitches; remove the marker). Work according to the pattern until 3 stitches remain in the round and cast off these 3 stitches. Now cut the thread and work the stitches on the front and the back separately. Happy knitting!
09.10.2022 - 20:04Lene Holmlund wrote:
Jeg strikker 7/8 år. Ved 32 cm tager jeg ind til ærmegab. Skal så strikke helt til 46 cm. Bliver det ikke et kæmpe ærmegab?
19.09.2022 - 15:28DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lene, ærmegabet skal strikkes til du har 48 cm = 16 cm, se også måleskitsen nederst i opskriften :)
20.09.2022 - 14:43Francoise wrote:
Est il nécessaire de faire ces augmentations et diminutions au premier rang ne peut on pas tricoter tout droit ? Merci de votre réponse et bravo pour vos modèle
29.01.2022 - 11:34DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Françoise et merci, ces diminutions et augmentations sont effectivement indispensables pour bien conserver la bonne largeur (le nombre de mailles en côtes, torsades et jersey n'est pas le même pour la même largeur car les côtes et les torsades resserrent l'ouvrage). Bon tricot!
31.01.2022 - 08:48Mary Jane Kimball wrote:
I am knitting Drops 30-13. I do not understand the instruction or reason for YO between stitch 12 and 13 on the diagram . Is this an increase? Why is there a YO in the middle of the cable? This would increase the stitch count from 24 to 25 for the center cable. Please clarify.
16.02.2021 - 17:55DROPS Design answered:
Hi Mary Jane, The yarn over is on the last row of the rib, so will not affect the cabling. The extra stitch means there is now an even number of stocking stitches on each side of the cable. Happy knitting!
17.02.2021 - 07:41Mary Baldwin wrote:
Can you please indicate how MUCH yarn is needed for this project? If it is here, I missed it.
15.11.2020 - 17:14DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Baldwin, you will find requested amount of yarn for each size at the beginning of the pattern, ie in the header, together with the sizes and the needle size / tension. For ex in size 2 years you need here 150 g DROPS Air / 50 g a ball = 3 balls DROPS Air in the first size / or 300 g DROPS Paris/50 g a ball = 6 balls DROPS Paris in the first size. Happy knitting!
16.11.2020 - 09:10Taquoi wrote:
Bonjour je ne comprends pas bien vos explications concernant le 1 er rang lorsqu on commence le après les côtes ! Lors du commencement du point fantaisie Après les 1 ères diminution Vous parlez d augmenter ? Merci pour vos éclairages Cordialement Florence taquoi
01.04.2020 - 22:54DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Taquoi, pour la même largeur, il faudra moins de mailles jersey que de mailles en côtes mais pour avoir la bonne largeur, il faudra plus de mailles pour les torsades, raison pour laquelle on va -sur un même tour- diminuer dans les mailles jersey et augmenter au 1er rang de A.1. À la fin de ce rang vous devez avoir entre 54 et 74 m selon la taille et vous pouvez maintenant tricoter la torsade. Bon tricot!
02.04.2020 - 08:19Sandra wrote:
Please can I knit this on ordinary straight neeedles? I have aran weight wool which I've knitted on 4 & 4.5 needles for his sister and want to knit a simple jersey with a cable somewhere for a 2yr old boy . Can you help please?
30.03.2020 - 23:22DROPS Design answered:
Dear Sandra, you will find here how to adapt a pattern into straight needles - this pattern is worked for a tension of 16 sts x 20 rows stocking st = 10 x 10 cm with larger needles, if you have another tension, measurements won't be right - read more about tension here - you should then search for another pattern matching your tension. Happy knitting!
31.03.2020 - 09:55