Isak by DROPS Design

Knitted children’s jumper with cables in DROPS Air or DROPS Paris. Sizes 2 - 12 years.

Tags: cable, jumpers,
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-007-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Sizes in cm: 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-200-200-250-250 g colour 03, pearl grey

Or use:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-400-400-500-500 g colour 23, light grey

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5.5 MM – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 MM for rib - or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cable.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

DECREASE TIP:
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the number of stitches to be decreased over (e.g. 25 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 5) = 5. In this example, knit every 4th and 5th stitch together.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 1 stitch after the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work until there is 1 stitch left on the round, make 1 yarn over and knit 1 (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the armholes, then the front and back pieces are continued separately, back and forth on the needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

BODY:
Cast on 120-128-136-144-152-160 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 4 cm. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= in the side). The next round is worked as follows: Knit the first 21-23-25-25-27-29 stitches and, at the same time, decrease 4 stitches evenly over these stitches – read DECREASE TIP, work A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 19-19-19-23-23-23 stitches increased to 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches on the first round), knit 21-23-25-25-27-29 stitches and, at the same time, decrease 4 stitches evenly over these stitches, insert 1 marker thread (= in the side), knit the next 59-63-67-71-75-79 stitches and decrease 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches evenly over these stitches. There are now 54-58-62-66-70-74 stitches between the marker threads on the front piece and 50-54-58-60-64-68 stitches on the back piece = a total of 104-112-120-126-134-142 stitches on the needle. The next round is worked as follows: 17-19-21-21-23-25 stitches stocking stitch, continue A.1 (= 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches) and work stocking stitch to end of round. Continue the pattern in this way. When A.1 has been completed, work A.2 over these 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches. Repeat A.2 upwards. When the piece measures 23-26-29-32-35-38 cm cast off 6 stitches in each side for the armhole (cast off 3 stitches on each side of both marker threads). The front and back pieces are now finished separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 44-48-52-54-58-62 stitches. Work stocking stitch back and forth and cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time in each side and then 1 stitch 1-1-2-1-1-2 times in each side = 38-42-44-48-52-54 stitches. When the piece measures 34-38-42-46-50-54 cm cast off the middle 16-18-20-22-22-24 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by casting off 1 stitch on next row from the neck = 10-11-11-12-14-14 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 36-40-44-48-52-56 cm and cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 48-52-56-60-64-68 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and A.2 and cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time in each side and then 1 stitch 1-1-2-1-1-2 times in each side = 42-46-48-54-58-60 stitches. Continue working stocking stitch and A.2 until the piece measures 31-34-38-41-45-48 cm. On the next row knit together the 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches over the cable mid front, 2 and 2 (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 stitches decreased). On the next row, place the middle 9-11-13-14-14-16 stitches on 1 thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue to cast off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and then 1 stitch 2-2-2-3-3-3 times = 10-11-11-12-14-14 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 36-40-44-48-52-56 cm and cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 32-32-34-34-36-36 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 4 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under the sleeve). Knit 1 round where you decrease 4 stitches evenly on round in all sizes – read DECREASE TIP = 28-28-30-30-32-32 stitches. Continue to work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 6 cm increase 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 3-3-4-3½-4½-3½ cm a total of 6-7-7-8-8-10 times = 40-42-44-46-48-52 stitches. When the piece measures 24-28-32-35-39-42 cm cast off 6 stitches mid under the sleeve (cast off 3 stitches on each side of the marker thread). Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work the sleeve cap back and forth in stocking stitch at the same time as you cast off at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1-2-2-2-2-3 times in each side and then 1 stitch 1 time in each side. Continue by casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of each row in each side until the piece measures 29-34-38-42-46-50 cm. Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows and then cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 30-35-39-43-47-51 cm from the top down. Work another sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves.

NECKLINE:
Start mid back of neck and knit up from the right side approx. 40 to 62 stitches around the neck (including the stitches on the thread in front) with short circular needle size 4.5 mm. Knit 1 round where you increase evenly to 54-64-66-70-70-76 stitches. Continue by working rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 3 cm. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.
= place 5 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle
= place 6 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 6, knit 6 from cable needle


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 30-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Taquoi 01.04.2020 - 22:54:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas bien vos explications concernant le 1 er rang lorsqu on commence le après les côtes ! Lors du commencement du point fantaisie Après les 1 ères diminution Vous parlez d augmenter ? Merci pour vos éclairages Cordialement Florence taquoi

DROPS Design 02.04.2020 kl. 08:19:

Bonjour Mme Taquoi, pour la même largeur, il faudra moins de mailles jersey que de mailles en côtes mais pour avoir la bonne largeur, il faudra plus de mailles pour les torsades, raison pour laquelle on va -sur un même tour- diminuer dans les mailles jersey et augmenter au 1er rang de A.1. À la fin de ce rang vous devez avoir entre 54 et 74 m selon la taille et vous pouvez maintenant tricoter la torsade. Bon tricot!

Sandra 30.03.2020 - 23:22:

Please can I knit this on ordinary straight neeedles? I have aran weight wool which I've knitted on 4 & 4.5 needles for his sister and want to knit a simple jersey with a cable somewhere for a 2yr old boy . Can you help please?

DROPS Design 31.03.2020 kl. 09:55:

Dear Sandra, you will find here how to adapt a pattern into straight needles - this pattern is worked for a tension of 16 sts x 20 rows stocking st = 10 x 10 cm with larger needles, if you have another tension, measurements won't be right - read more about tension here - you should then search for another pattern matching your tension. Happy knitting!

Tracie Moleta 24.02.2020 - 08:14:

Hi there, I am knitting for 7 year olds, it would not seem that you have the stitches, can you help please. Thanks heaps

DROPS Design 24.02.2020 kl. 10:01:

Dear Mrs Moleta, in size 7 years you start with 144 sts and work as follows after ribbed edge: Knit the first 25 sts decreasing 4 stitches evenly (= 21 sts remain), A.1 (= 23 sts increased to 24 sts on the first round), knit 25 sts decreasing 4 sts evenly (= 21 sts remain), insert 1 marker thread, knit the next 71 sts decreasing 11 sts evenly (=60 sts remain) = a total of 126 sts (=21+24+21 for the front piece + 60 sts for the back piece). Happy knitting!

Pietrement Mireille 21.09.2019 - 19:35:

Ca fait maintenant plus de trente ans que je tricote et je n'ai jamais vu d'explications aussi compliquées, vous embrouillez à souhait les explications; = 1 maille endroit sur l'endroit, envers sur l'envers = 1 maille envers sur l'endroit, endroit sur l'envers c'est du jersey endroit tout simplement, comment voulez-vous que personne débutante si retrouve, malgré mon expérience, j'ai un mal fou à déchiffrer vos explications.

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 10:18:

Bonjour Mme Pietrement, si 1 m endroit sur l'endroit, envers sur l'envers correspond à du jersey endroit (= mailles des torsades), 1 m envers sur l'endroit et endroit sur l'envers correspond à du jersey envers (avant et après les torsades), si vous préférez utilisez des termes plus techniques. Bon tricot!

Sue 22.04.2019 - 16:05:

I'm finishing this sweater... the shoulder seams were easy, but I'm having trouble making smooth seams for the sleeves because of the sleeve edges. That is, the binding-off that formed the upper curve of the sleeve makes it hard (for me) to create a smooth seam. Any suggestions? videos for this kind of seam?

DROPS Design 06.05.2019 kl. 15:56:

Dear Sue, we have added your wish on our todolist - for any further assistance, you are welcome to contact your store, they will help you to sew the different seams. Happy knitting!

Tonnie Asveld 13.03.2019 - 19:17:

Ik wil heel graag een trui breien voor een jongen van 8/9jaar en naald nr 6/7 heeft U daar misschien een patroontje voor.

DROPS Design 25.03.2019 kl. 10:16:

Dag Tonnie,

Je zou even kunnen kijken bij de kinderpatronen en dan kiezen voor garengroep D of E.

Rita Heytens 24.02.2019 - 17:35:

Ik ben een truitje aan het breien, witte boord in ribbels en dan rose . Nu pas gezien dat witte boord van voorpand in een ander wit is gebreid. Jammer genoeg is het pand helemaal af , ik kan perfect de witte boord losmaken , mijn vraag kan ik de witte boord naar onder breien of komt dit niet goed?

DROPS Design 26.02.2019 kl. 09:00:

Dag Rita,

Helaas begrijp ik je vraag niet helemaal. Deze trui wordt in 1 kleur parelgrijs gebreid met kabels en tricotsteek. Voor vragen over andere patronen kun je bij het betreffende patroon een vraag stellen.

Sally Price 17.02.2019 - 23:57:

5 minutes after writing you to ask about the diagrams.... I finally figured out the system! Sorry for bothering you. Now I understand what I'm doing!!!

Sally Price 17.02.2019 - 23:35:

I'm starting to knit cable sweater Isak (the first time I've used a DROPS pattern) and I suddenly realize that I don\'t understand at all how to read/use the references to A-1\ and A-2 diagrams. Can you help me?

DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 07:57:

Hi Sally, The diagrams for A.1 and A.2 are at the bottom of the pattern. They are read from bottom right to left and upwards and will give you the cable pattern on the jumper.Both diagrams are worked once in width on the front piece and when you have finished A.1, work A.2 directly above A.1. I hope this helps and happy knitting!

Rigmor Svensson 04.02.2019 - 18:14:

Kan man bara få köpa mönster efter som jag har massa garn

DROPS Design 05.02.2019 kl. 08:14:

Hei Rigmor, Alle oppskriftene er gratis. Det er bare å åpne oppskriften og skrive ut. God fornøyelse!

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Isak

elkestricker, Germany